Freewheelers Horsehide Tear - Repair Recommendations

[TREEMAN]

I got a little woosey when I saw the closeups....Does look a little dry. Maybe thats why instructions for leather conditioners always say to rub it into the seams well. Sorry this happened but I think its very repairable...... I'ed get in touch with FW's first !!

 

[Boyo]

@DorKlonn, sorry to see that damage.. Question though, did the jacket ever feel tight in the shoulders? I have 1or 2 that are a bit snug there and have convinced myself that they will stretch..( think Chris Farley's fat guy in a little suit) but in reality that kind of tear is more likely.

 

[DorKlonn]

Is this branded Freewheelers or Bootleggers?

It's a Freewheelers jacket under their Neal Cassidy Railroad line, this one is the Caboose model

 

[DorKlonn]

I got a little woosey when I saw the closeups....Does look a little dry. Maybe thats why instructions for leather conditioners always say to rub it into the seams well. Sorry this happened but I think its very repairable...... I'ed get in touch with FW's first !!

The funny thing is that it doesn't feel too dry, atleast comparable with my other jackets, my current ongoing theory is that looking at the seam, there is a part of the hide where it's a lil thinner than the rest, and I think the tear started there, and then the rest is like those perforated paper edges, seemed like it was bound to go some day! But as Terry said, theories are theories, I just want to get it fixed haha

 

[DorKlonn]

@DorKlonn, sorry to see that damage.. Question though, did the jacket ever feel tight in the shoulders? I have 1or 2 that are a bit snug there and have convinced myself that they will stretch..( think Chris Farley's fat guy in a little suit) but in reality that kind of tear is more likely.

It was never tight, it fit snugly, but i was able to rotate my arm freely, honestly I didnt even hear anything the day I found out it broke, I was wearing it around the house, and I went to the bathroom and noticed the bright brown against the black jacket. I'm honestly as perplexed as the rest of you, especially since I never expected THIS jacket to give out like this

 

[Marc mndt]

and then the rest is like those perforated paper edges,

Interesting, we discussed a similar issue a couple of weeks ago. Our hypothesis was that a too high stitch count weakens the leather in a similar way as perforated paper edges.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...er-about-outerwear.102916/page-8#post-2762179

 

[DorKlonn]

Interesting, we discussed a similar issue a couple of weeks ago. Our hypothesis was that a too high stitch count weakens the leather in a similar way as perforated paper edges.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...er-about-outerwear.102916/page-8#post-2762179

Interesting, I love that you did the math as well; brings me back to my days in structures class; I think that as Dave Himel said, the strength is only as good as the stitching, but similar to structural failure a strong connection's failure is going to be more catastrophic if the material fails, which in this case, I guess I was unlucky and just managed to hit the wrong spot with the wrong stitch

 

[Blackadder]

Interesting, we discussed a similar issue a couple of weeks ago. Our hypothesis was that a too high stitch count weakens the leather in a similar way as perforated paper edges.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...er-about-outerwear.102916/page-8#post-2762179

If you compare a RM or FW jackets to your HD Sportster, you will see that they would have about the same stitch count. I would put my bet on skiving since the OP mentioned that part has thinner leather.
The perforated paper edges tear because paper is weaker than the metal ring/strings that held them. In the case of leather, it is more likely that the thread would break in the tug of war unless the leather is thinned i.e. skived.
I am not arguing against the principle that thicker thread and in turn less stitch holes on thick leather is more solid but I doubt the "high" stitch count is a fault in itself. As said, the stitch count is not that high unless compared to manufacturers like say Aero who makes bigger holes using threads of heavier gauge. In the case of "high" stitch count with "tiny" threads and reasonably thick leather, I reckon that the threads would give first.

 

[navetsea]

Or perhaps there is already some movements between the leather and the thread , so the tread sew it away silently halfway without visible sign from outside and only pop open once it is weakened enough. Theories...

But yeah i think a piece of soft leather suede side up, leather glue suede to suede position the tear as close as possible when glueing, stitch the patch right on top of the closest existing stitches using the same hole touch up the remaining brown edges with leather dye, buff it with little wax....
It can be fixed. But the trust is broken forever, you might feel afraid it might happen elsewhere or the fix would fail again someday soon. Same feel you have with patched tire, or reglued sneakers outsole. Dont dare to move around as freely as before in it.

 

[Cyber Lip]

Interesting, we discussed a similar issue a couple of weeks ago. Our hypothesis was that a too high stitch count weakens the leather in a similar way as perforated paper edges.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...er-about-outerwear.102916/page-8#post-2762179

But it's not ripped through the stitch holes, is it?

 

[Seb Lucas]

But it's not ripped through the stitch holes, is it?

That's the key question.

 

[DorKlonn]

But it's not ripped through the stitch holes, is it?

I know the images make it seem like the rip isnt along the seam, but the top stitching doesnt match exactly parallel with the bottom stitching, its slightly at an angle, so the actual rip along the bottom stitching is indeed along the seam

 

[jeo]

@DorKlonn, sorry to see that damage.. Question though, did the jacket ever feel tight in the shoulders? I have 1or 2 that are a bit snug there and have convinced myself that they will stretch..( think Chris Farley's fat guy in a little suit) but in reality that kind of tear is more likely.

My black caboose is pretty tight and I've tried to stretch it out ala Chris Farley's fat guy in a little coat method many times. It has stretched ever so slightly. Probably not enough to make a difference, but stretched nonetheless. I wouldn't do that with all jackets.

All my FWs are tanks so I think this was an unfortunate combination of weak and perhaps dry leather at that point along with wear and pressure that caused the tear. I guess shit happens with even the best makers.

@DorKlonn really sorry that this happened to you. I hope you can get it fixed somehow.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Definitely a huge shame. I would not be happy at all if this happened to my Caboose.

I will point out that the pictures do not indicate that it ripped along the stitch holes, so I highly doubt that this was the culprit.

To me, it looks like a bad batch of leather. It looks extremely dry there. As much as I love the characteristics of Shinki, we have seen massive amounts of variation with that leather... and it is just a piece of animal skin at the end of the day.

I would suggest talking to Dena or @Maverickson about getting it fixed.

 

[Harris HTM]

I will point out that the pictures do not indicate that it ripped along the stitch holes, so I highly doubt that this was the culprit.
.

The OP mentions just above (post 32) that "so the actual rip along the bottom stitching is indeed along the seam".
There could be many factors leading to this, most of them mentioned above. High stitch count, skivving, bad piece of leather, dried leather, bad day of the machinist, tempering with by a previous owner (for example HWT), etc. I hope the damage is easy and cheap to fix.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

The OP mentions just above (post 32) that "so the actual rip along the bottom stitching is indeed along the seam".
There could be many factors leading to this, most of them mentioned above. High stitch count, skivving, bad piece of leather, dried leather, bad day of the machinist, tempering with by a previous owner (for example HWT), etc. I hope the damage is easy and cheap to fix.

I missed that. Was just reading the fist post when I typed.

 

[navetsea]

cases like this make me think maybe bonding a strip of stable fabric like a ribbon under the leather along the edge before stitching is not a bad idea, leather is organic afterall, and every animal has slightly different skin

 

[Mich486]

It's a Freewheelers jacket under their Neal Cassidy Railroad line, this one is the Caboose model

Ok I think before Bootleggers rebranded themselves as Freewheelers they were making the exact same jacket (under the sub label Neil Cassidy etc) so I was just trying to understand if we were talking about a >10 years old jacket or a more recent one. It sucks in any case of course but a rip after more than 10 years of wear is a thing, after a few years another.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Yeah I just consider this as a unfortunate part of the jacket's history, but nonetheless a part of its story. Its tear is surprisingly neat, I have attached some more photos, its not everyday you get to peer inside a freewheeler's jacket. View attachment 308422 View attachment 308423 View attachment 308424

Wow, I applaud your attitude bro. I would be tore up from the floor up. I dont see how casual wear would do this? I have always been drawn more to equipment jackets vs. Fashion because of the fear of this happening. I hope the best outcome possible for you. Sorry about this experience.

 

[DorKlonn]

Ok I think before Bootleggers rebranded themselves as Freewheelers they were making the exact same jacket (under the sub label Neil Cassidy etc) so I was just trying to understand if we were talking about a >10 years old jacket or a more recent one. It sucks in any case of course but a rip after more than 10 years of wear is a thing, after a few years another.

Now you've got me thinking, the newer Neil Cassidy ones are branded under the Union Special Coveralls, with a small subtext of Neil Cassidy. But mine has the large Neil Cassidy with a Bootleggers Reunion subtext; im not exactly sure how the labels of Freewheelers/Bootleggers have change throughout the years, but mine may as well be older than I initially though as I never bothered to really do a deep dive on the tagging.