Freewheelers Centinela Rude Black

[dannyk]

These don't look that wide, but maybe the photo setup is deceiving.

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Edit: typo

I have no idea. This isn’t one of my favorite jackets. This specific design. So you might be right. I just meant vintage jackets in general ive seen balloon arms on plenty. But if this specific model did not have that; then I don’t know! Then ya got me why they’d do that ha

 

[Marc mndt]

But if this specific model did not have that; then I don’t know! Then ya got me why they’d do that ha

Oh I didn't try or mean to prove you're wrong. I honestly don't know because I don't own anything pre 50s (yet). I was just observing a couple of leathertogs pics trying to find out whether or not the sleeves look similar to those on FW jackets.

 

[JMax]

Bottom jacket is a Langlitz. They definitely do baggier upper arms on many of their jackets.

Most OG LTs I have seen online have the sharp elbow to wrist taper. Tough to say about the upper arms by just looking at pictures. Many times the upper arm looks baggy but is it really baggier or just an illusion created by the lower arm taper. Alas I don’t have around $10K laying around to purchase one to find out first hand.

 

[Monitor]

Gotta be a preference thing because when I handled ELMC jackets, their leather was incredibly disappointing to me.

Which one? Haven't handled anything from ELMC but the leather Eastman is using for their A-2's is really nice. So much that while I'm not really all too sold on the whole concept of expensive leather anymore, this kinda hide just really stood out and made me want to want something else made in it.

Ditto for Bill Kelso's Liberty. That stuff is INSANE. I can almost see why the $1K upcharge.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Which one? Haven't handled anything from ELMC but the leather Eastman is using for their A-2's is really nice. So much that while I'm not really all too sold on the whole concept of expensive leather anymore, this kinda hide just really stood out and made me want to want something else made in it.

Ditto for Bill Kelso's Liberty. That stuff is INSANE. I can almost see why the $1K upcharge.

The examples I handled felt very thin. Too thin for horsehide IMO. The grain also had the appearance of cowhide with very even, pebbly grain. I really hate when horsehide does this. It is a major reason why I don't like Vicenza at all. This was a while ago so I would like to handle it again.

 

[Monitor]

The examples I handled felt very thin. Too thin for horsehide IMO. The grain also had the appearance of cowhide with very even, pebbly grain. I really hate when horsehide does this. It is a major reason why I don't like Vicenza at all. This was a while ago so I would like to handle it again.

Then it's completely different, yeah. But it looks that way from the photos, too. Horsehide they use on A-2's is very natural looking hide, with some panels being smooth and other grainy but naturally so, not pebbled. Shiny finish and super rich color.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure Vicenza is embossed - At least to some extent. I've seen horsehide that I know hasn't been corrected and none looks even remotely as pebbly as Vicenza. There's just no way that stuff is naturally so grainy.

 

[Kuro]

The thing that jumps out to me on these jackets (and I've never seen the jacket until this thread) is how baggy the upper arms appear. Jason Mamoa is a big guy with big arms and those sleeves dwarf him. Not a good pattern IMO.

These jackets have large arm holes to allow for a range of motion. Large arm holes equals large biceps.

 

[navetsea]

teacore la brea, black jack la brea, tea core san mateo, tea core brakeman
these happens all the time, but make sure you buy the real one.
they could be limited ver. for a year or two.
I like daredevil, centinela without those eight tits on the front. but it is limited ver. of 2013.

I like this a lot more

 

[Kuro]

I like this a lot more

I think the sizes made were only up to a 42? There are a couple other changes as well. I remember looking wishfully at this very jacket knowing I would never fit in any of the sizes made.

 

[Kuro]

the measurement of both centinela is almost the same
115chest, 50shoulder, 68sleeve, 62 body length
I am 180cm height,80 kg weight, 103 chest, 51 shoulder
in fact, i like my fit in 2019 ver, (as i heard that they do change a bit on the hide starting 2019 on centinela)
I do feel hide of 2019 is harder, when i put on its rather tight on the body and the sleeve, and incomfortable on the cuff, because it is too hard,and I cannot wear a watch with this jacket. And there is not much space in the body, I do think the fitting is rather smart on 2019 ver.

As for 2018 ver which is quite the opposite, its soft, (not due to pre-break in by my friend), the whole jacket is soft and comfortable, the touch i feel resembles with sticky rice. In this time my wrist is rather comfortable, but it turns out too large for me. And this oversize wearing better happens with A-2 jacket, not moto leather jacket

And the tricky thing is, I found the hide of 2018 ver centinela is quite similar to that of my 2020 ver mulholland (sticky rice type), and 2019 ver centinela resembles with my 2019 mulholland and 2019 la brea ( la brea is the thickest, but all of them are hard in comparison). As centinela comes back in 2021, I am not sure which hide would they apply to the new centinela, which is very insteresting. (it could be completely random move, or it could be design deliberately, shinny hard, or comfortable soft in turns）

And as i take a deep look in Momoa's centinela, I think he is wearing a loose fit jacket, due to the long sleeve and some space on the chest, that should be of his request for both cycling and daily use.

Forgot to mention, centinela 42 is around 106 chest, which would be too tight for me, both the chest and the sleeve. And I would sacrifice little good-liking for my comfort. Showing off a leather jacket is only part of the journey. The personal feeling is the most important of all.
Anyway, I may receive a size 42 centinela to try next week, if I do, I may post some new pics then.

That is good to know about the differences in leather and some changes in taper. I find that interesting! My 42 La Brea that I will own someday is a 2019 model. Happy to know it is of the hard variety!

 

[navetsea]

teacore la brea, black jack la brea, tea core san mateo, tea core brakeman
these happens all the time, but make sure you buy the real one.
they could be limited ver. for a year or two.
I like daredevil, centinela without those eight tits on the front. but it is limited ver. of 2013.

I like this a lot more, if they go with high armhole thus slim sleeve in 2013, and then come with current fit with much fuller upper and hard taper on forearm, then it is a deliberate style choice from them.

 

[Marc mndt]

The examples I handled felt very thin. Too thin for horsehide IMO. The grain also had the appearance of cowhide with very even, pebbly grain.

The grainiest non-vintage jacket I've had was this ELMC Californian.

 

[TheBigEraser]

How does cowhide feel?
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Hi Marc, I think what he meant is matte, no coating, evenly distributed pebble-grain-like hide. I saw his liberty hide Bill Kelso, the horsehide differs quite a lot from Shinki. Maybe that's his general impression about cowhide.
Actually, the black ELMC you brought the other day has some similarity with the liberty horsehide used on his Bill Kelso in terms of evenly-distributeness (I don't even know if this is proper English, haha, but I think you get what I meant) of the grain. But I like your ELMC hide more because of the sheen and the more poped grain. I think it really comes down to each individual jacket, as many posts pointed out the selection of hide can differ a lot even on the same model of ELMC.

I also think this just might be FW keeping to vintage aesthetics. A lot of 40s-60s bike jackets had these ballon like sleeves that then taper down to the wrist. Of course not all; so there’s plenty that do not. But I’ve come across a ton in that era. Since vintage aesthetics and fast aging etc..is all the rage right now I would not be surprised at all if they are purposely making them that way to fit the look.

This is the page of vintage leathertogs photo included in the Lightening magazine. I think this is the direct reference of the cut and design.

Ditto for Bill Kelso's Liberty. That stuff is INSANE. I can almost see why the $1K upcharge.

Hi Monitor, I am not sure if you are mixing Liberty horsehide and Victory horsehide. I don't think Liberty horsehide need that 1K upcharge.

I think the sizes made were only up to a 42? There are a couple other changes as well. I remember looking wishfully at this very jacket knowing I would never fit in any of the sizes made.

A size 38 of this model (Freewheelers Dare Devil) popped at the Chinese second-hand market several days ago. I asked the owner for the measurement and figured out this model is more generous than Centinela. A size 38 Dare Devil has a chest measurement of 106cm, which looks more "normal" compared to Centinela. Unfortunately a bit too small for me. The jacket is sold 1 day after the posting.

Edit: typo