Formality; Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted suits

[Edward]

I've never known of any conventional norm to this with regards to lounge suits (as opposed to evening wear). Even comparing a lounge suit to blazer and trousers, I would be of the opinion that it comes down to the individual outfit. I know there have been occasions when I have been widely regarded to be considerably more formally attired in sports jacket or blazer and trousers than colleagues in a two-piece. Semi-formal daywear is, after all, non-matching, and a notch above the lounge suit. However, I digress. The thing that really sticks in my mind regarding the DB v SB notion is Hitchcock's Rope, in which the two central characters each wear one of those styles. The confident, in control man is in a strong, wide-lapelled DB, while his insecure and nervous accomplice is dressed in a 3pc, SB peak lapel. The clothes do, in my mind, make a big difference to how each is perceived. I tend to the view that whatever is perceived as more formal in a given time period might be that which is also perceived to be more 'manly'... though that is, of course, a moving target.

With regards to wearing a db open, I really dislike the look. Fine if sitting down in a tight jacket, but I do not care for it being worn open as a matter of course. This is entirely due to the fact that I have seen one too many men who appear to be wearing a DB as if it were a sb cut to conceal more of their rotund frame.

 

[George A.Bailey]

Thanks for all the feedback, it's been very helpful. Taking it all into account, I think I'll probably stick to the classic SB jacket, with a step (notch) lapel (unless anyone can convince me to have it peaked).

Regarding the rest of the suit, when being made-to-measure or bespoke I think a matching waistcoat is a necessity, preferably double-breasted with 6 or 8 buttons. Hugh Laurie's suit (left) in this promotional image for Jeeves and Wooster has always been one of my favourite's:

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I do own a few DB suits, though I don't wear them as much as I do my SB ones.

You already knew it before

I think with a double DB waistcoat the peak lapels will look much better....just like in the picture.

 

[George A.Bailey]

The thing that really sticks in my mind regarding the DB v SB notion is Hitchcock's Rope, in which the two central characters each wear one of those styles. The confident, in control man is in a strong, wide-lapelled DB, while his insecure and nervous accomplice is dressed in a 3pc, SB peak lapel.

James Stewart's 3-piece suit in that film has always appealed to me. I haven't seen Rope in years but I think I've got it on DVD somewhere. It certainly warrants another watch from me.

 

[AntonAAK]

Rope

A fine selection of suits. And a great film...

 

[George A.Bailey]

I think with a double DB waistcoat the peak lapels will look much better....just like in the picture.

Quite possibly. I have always thought, however, that Point lapels on a SB jacket looks quite unorthodox, although a lot of people are actually fans of this style, the look was quite popular in the '30s I believe.

And please don't let my previous comments regarding DB jackets make you believe that I "already knew it before." I am both a fan of SB and DB suits, respectively. I do own a very nice navy pinstripe Gieves and Hawkes DB suit my grandfather gave me. Although I may not wear them as much as I do SB ones, this comes strictly from a fashion and comfort analysis.

 

[Edward]

A fine selection of suits. And a great film...

I love all three of those suits. Truly a superb film, and the wardrobing is wonderful.

 

[AntonAAK]

I love all three of those suits. Truly a superb film, and the wardrobing is wonderful.

Agreed. I don't think I have it. I feel the need to go DVD shopping...

 

[Richard Warren]

Interesting movie about, among other things, college professors setting up hypothetical worlds (as an intellectual exercise) in which their students then try to live.

An early reaction to "theory" or its precursors?

 

[Edward]

Interesting movie about, among other things, college professors setting up hypothetical worlds (as an intellectual exercise) in which their students then try to live.

An early reaction to "theory" or its precursors?

I did think that was an interesting aspect to it, yes, the professor realising that his student had taken on for real what he maintained as an empty pose. The play upon which the film is based was, of course, inspired by the real-life case of Loeb and Leopold - see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leopold_and_Loeb. Clarence Darrow, as their counsel, convinced them to plead guilty and managed to get them life imprisonment rather than a death sentence. The 'philosophy' which they were taught at university was in part blamed by Darrow for the murder; if memory serves, it was also implied that there existed a homo-erotic frisson between the two, this being pushed as evidence that they were not mentally competent to face the death penalty for their actions.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The two are not the same, as Marc says.

Although sometimes they fall into the same camp.


.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

James Stewart's 3-piece suit in that film has always appealed to me.

Polo Ralph Lauren offered one with virtually identical-looking lapels back in 2005. Matt Deckard has several of them.


.

 

[Tomasso]

Clarence Darrow, as their counsel, convinced them to plead guilty and managed to get them life imprisonment rather than a death sentence. The 'philosophy' which they were taught at university was in part blamed by Darrow for the murder; if memory serves, it was also implied that there existed a homo-erotic frisson between the two, this being pushed as evidence that they were not mentally competent to face the death penalty for their actions.

Sure, but it was a bench trial in Cook County....so the question is.......who was paid more: Clarence Darrow or Judge Caverly ........

 

[Richard Warren]

One might say that the concept of formality only has meaning within the context of tradition/conservatism. One might have a pleasing suit, but it can only be characterized as formal or not in the context of a pre-existing set of criteria. To maintain their function, those criteria cannot change too frequently.

If the original poster wants to look sharp, I recommend a double breasted suit. If he wants to be seen as solid, safe, and respectable in a business context, he should go with a single breasted suit.

 

[George A.Bailey]

A rough idea as to what my suit will look like, I've tried to add most of the minor details (ignore the vertical lines down both sides of the jacket, that's a mistake):

 

[B.J. Hedberg]

A rough idea as to what my suit will look like, I've tried to add most of the minor details (ignore the vertical lines down both sides of the jacket, that's a mistake):

Good selection sir. :eusa_clap

 

[Derek WC]

Very nice looking suit, but the pants look fairly low waisted, you may prefer it that way, but I think that the Hollywood waist looks the more formal.

 

[George A.Bailey]

Very nice looking suit, but the pants look fairly low waisted, you may prefer it that way, but I think that the Hollywood waist looks the more formal.

Yeah, you're probably right. I had a really bad expericence once with an "off-the-peg" suit I bought, where the trousers were low-waisted yet the waistcoat was cut higher than usual, a terrible combination. Made it extremely difficult just for the waistcoat to cover the waistband of the trousers.

Now I've thought of that, I think high-waisted trousers would be more logical...

 

[Tomasso]

Along with a higher rise I'd add reverse pleats, seam pockets and fishtail back, of course YMMV.

 

[RobStC]

Along with a higher rise I'd add reverse pleats, seam pockets and fishtail back, of course YMMV.

Yep, I'd go with Tomasso on all this. I'd also be tempted to lose the ticket pocket on the jacket - just a bit too 'busy' with the DB lapelled waistcoat, plus have horizontal pocket flaps on the jacket for the same reason. Oh, and 4 buttons on the jacket sleeve cuffs..... IMHO

RobStC