Formality; Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted suits

[George A.Bailey]

This question comes from a relatively recent suit-wearer. Naturally, I try to look my best every day, and my Dad is interested in purchasing me a made-to-measure suit as a birthday present. Hopefully, not too costly.

Ignoring all the details nobody really cares about, what buttoning style on a suit is really the most formal and/or conservative. Single, or double-breasted? You're comments on this will be much appreiciated and any additional information you can provide me on how to look my sharpest without being abnormal would be extremely helpful.

 

[Dinerman]

The cut of a double breasted is all important. A classic double breasted will be a 6 with two buttoning, and the four buttons on the bottom should form very nearly a square.

You don't see nearly as many double breasteds these days so they stand out a bit.

 

[Undertow]

I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong, but regarding formality, I don't think one is strictly formal over the other.

If we're discussing business attire solely (and not evening wear), a single breasted (SB) peak lapel may be considered by some more formal than a double breasted (DB), and a DB more formal than a SB notch - but honestly, that would be a point of conjecture and not a hard rule.

In my humble opinion, I believe a DB suit requires a little more attention to detail, and as Dinerman said, is a little rarer than a SB. You should not walk around in public with an unbuttoned DB, whereas any slob can flap around in an open SB (I do often! :eusa_doh: ). A DB requires better fitting as well - you can't gain alot of weight and still expect to fit!

But again, I believe in our common era, it's preference and conjecture. Have you had an opportunity to look over The BIG Sticky to see if there were any examples in which you were most interested?

 

[George A.Bailey]

I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong, but regarding formality, I don't think one is strictly formal over the other.

If we're discussing business attire solely (and not evening wear), a single breasted (SB) peak lapel may be considered by some more formal than a double breasted (DB), and a DB more formal than a SB notch - but honestly, that would be a point of conjecture and not a hard rule.

In my humble opinion, I believe a DB suit requires a little more attention to detail, and as Dinerman said, is a little rarer than a SB. You should not walk around in public with an unbuttoned DB, whereas any slob can flap around in an open SB (I do often! :eusa_doh: ). A DB requires better fitting as well - you can't gain alot of weight and still expect to fit!

But again, I believe in our common era, it's preference and conjecture. Have you had an opportunity to look over The BIG Sticky to see if there were any examples in which you were most interested?

Thanks, that reply was just what I hoped for, and link you posted contained some very interesting examples of what a decent suit should look like. I do own a few DB suits, though I don't wear them as much as I do my SB ones. Fortunately for myself, I was aware that a DB suit should remain buttoned at all times, although I am forced on most occasions to leave it unbuttoned when sitting down mainly because it does distort the drape of the jacket, leaving an ugly appearance, and also because it is quite uncomfortable.

 

[fluteplayer07]

SB Suit--->DB Suit--->DB Tux--->SB Tux
Less formal -------------> More formal

 

[RobStC]

Yeah, largely because of the 'having to keep it buttoned' thing, and also because DB's are less seen these days, then IMHO DB's simply look more formal or dressy, even if there is no great historical precedent here.....
We live in different times from the 1940's (even if we try and convince ourselves otherwise!), and will be viewed by those around us in the context of 2010 .

RobStC

 

[Feraud]

TFortunately for myself, I was aware that a DB suit should remain buttoned at all times, although I am forced on most occasions to leave it unbuttoned when sitting down mainly because it does distort the drape of the jacket, leaving an ugly appearance, and also because it is quite uncomfortable.

It is fine to unbutton any jacket when sitting down.

Formal/conservative is best answered within the context of the when/where you are wearing an outfit. High school, college, the workplace, etc.

 

[1961MJS]

Hi

I think that it's more formal to leave a double breasted suit buttoned when seated. That being said, I think that the order of formality is something like this:

1. White Tie and tails
2. Tux
3. Three piece suit with tie
4. Single breasted suit with tie
5. Double Breasted suit with tie
6. Single Breasted blazer with tie
7. Double Breasted Blazer with tie
...
14. Sleeveless T-shirt and holey jean shorts and flip flops.

I put the with tie in there because the LARGE company I work at has out management wearing a suit with a polo shirt or button down shirt, but ties aren't allowed. Personally they look like they've already been to happy hour. I also know I'm missing some of the black tie, diplomatic wear.

Later

 

[Undertow]

Hi

I think that it's more formal to leave a double breasted suit buttoned when seated. That being said, I think that the order of formality is something like this:

1. White Tie and tails
2. Tux
3. Three piece suit with tie
4. Single breasted suit with tie
5. Double Breasted suit with tie
6. Single Breasted blazer with tie
7. Double Breasted Blazer with tie
...
14. Sleeveless T-shirt and holey jean shorts and flip flops.

I put the with tie in there because the LARGE company I work at has out management wearing a suit with a polo shirt or button down shirt, but ties aren't allowed. Personally they look like they've already been to happy hour. I also know I'm missing some of the black tie, diplomatic wear.

Later

...
16. A-Shirt, maroon sweatpants, crocs
17. mustard stained a-shirt, bbq stained sweatpants, slippers
18. No shirt, diaper, jellie shoes
19....

 

[Richard Warren]

My belief is that a single breasted business suit is more formal and conservative, and more versatile.

 

[Corky]

I agree with the previous post...

And I have not seen (on a retailer's rack) or owned a double breasted tux, suit, or sports coat for decades.

 

[JimWagner]

When I wore suits to work I usually wore a solid dark or pin striped 3-piece single breasted in a medium lapel width. Wing tipped shoes, black or gray socks. Solid white or blue button down oxford shirts, button cuffs. Medium width not too flashy ties.

That look was considered conservative formal business wear.

Less formal would be sport coats, slacks, loafers, lighter colors, maybe even short sleeved dress shirts. Very few men wore double breasted suits, but being outside the norm they would have been considered less formal at the time.

Anything more casual than that wasn't allowed.

Then times changed.

 

[Undertow]

Have you made a choice as to what you'll wear yet? Do you happen to have any pics of your choices?

 

[1961MJS]

Hi

It's difficult to find an American male who's chest is enough larger than his gut to look good in a double breasted coat. You can always leave a single breasted one open, but walking around with the doubles open looks cheesy.

later

 

[Richard Warren]

Hi

It's difficult to find an American male who's chest is enough larger than his gut to look good in a double breasted coat. You can always leave a single breasted one open, but walking around with the doubles open looks cheesy.

later

While I observed above that most single breasted suits are more formal, more conservative, and more versatile, about three or 4 days of the week I wear a double breasted suit. I confess to walking around with them open, and I look casually elegant, yet manly. Not the least bit cheesy. No, not at all. Not me.

 

[Undertow]

While I observed above that most single breasted suits are more formal, more conservative, and more versatile, about three or 4 days of the week I wear a double breasted suit. I confess to walking around with them open, and I look casually elegant, yet manly. Not the least bit cheesy. No, not at all. Not me.

lol :whip:

 

[1961MJS]

While I observed above that most single breasted suits are more formal, more conservative, and more versatile, about three or 4 days of the week I wear a double breasted suit. I confess to walking around with them open, and I look casually elegant, yet manly. Not the least bit cheesy. No, not at all. Not me.

Obviously you're allowed because your unbuttoned suit enters the room before your belly does.



For me personally, it's getting to be close to a tie...

Later

 

[B.J. Hedberg]

Formal/conservative is best answered within the context of the when/where you are wearing an outfit. High school, college, the workplace, etc.

I agree with Feraud, it depends on the location.

The double breasted suit seemed to be the formal staple of Minnesota governors for many years. Most of them posed for official portraits and photos in them (sometimes with the jacket open to look less formal – but always with a matching vest). Even today someone properly decked out in a double breasted suit at the Capitol comes across as very formal. And yet go out to lunch in a double breasted suit at most establishments, and the DB comes across as slightly less formal compared to your standard black “power suit”. As others have said, it’s best to choose what looks good on you and go with that.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I believe that, from at least 1910 onwards, single-breasted business suit jackets have been considered more conservative than double-breasted ones. That said, a dark double-breasted jacket could easily be considered more formal than a dark single-breasted version ...


... which begs the question: can there be a difference between "conservatism" and "formality"? Sure there can. For instance, a Bass 'Weejun penny loafer is more conservative --but less formal-- than an Allen-Edmonds spectator oxford.

.

 

[Hal]

...go out to lunch in a double breasted suit at most establishments, and the DB comes across as slightly less formal compared to your standard black “power suit”.

Wasn't the term "power suit" used for the rather ugly low-buttoning double-breasted suits of the 1980s?

...can there be a difference between "conservatism" and "formality"?

The two are not the same, as Marc says.