Formal Wear Primer

[Faux Brummell]

Hi everyone. At the end of last year I commented that I wished this thread was more active so I thought it only made sense for me to contribute a photo myself. This is from last weekend, my wife and I celebrated our first wedding anniversary with afternoon tea at The Plaza. I realize my outfit isn’t quite perfect but I hope you’ll go easy on me for the sartorial imperfections, I was very happy with the overall look. (All eyes were on my wife anyway!) We had an incredible time.
(Come on now everyone, your turn, let’s keep this thread going!)
Cheers,
FB

 

[ruvort]

Melton & Co. top hat, white tie and tails - trying the new waistcoat recently arrived.
View attachment 66172

I know this is an old post, but hopefully you have found more opportunities to wear this. My main critique is that the waistcoat is much too long though. It should really be the same length as the jacket or a little bit shorter.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

 

[Mathematicus]

I am looking for some morning wear advice!

Long story short, I am getting married next February in my hometown (Italy) and since we decided the date and agreed on the fact that I'll wear a morning coat, I have been looking around to find the right pieces of the best quality and fit possible without shelling a minimum of 1000 £ (in Italy it would cost you at least 2000 euros and it would be of the "modern eccentric" variety, as morning wear is not really practised anymore since 20s and 30).

With a lot of time and patience I finally found a beautiful hadmade morning coat in Oxford gray (very likely from the 50s) with nice unpadded shoulders that fit well with my square shoulder line. I had it altered by a competent London tailor to match my girlish waist and the result is great - total price including alterations 170 £.

The real trouble was to find a decent pair of trousers which could match. They had to satisfy the following conditions: 1) high rise with button for braces and back cut appropriately for a waistcoat, 2) decently close cut around hips 3) no pleats and possibly 4) solid colour (the traditional striped variety was fine for me but my mother insisted I got something in a solid shade of gray).

Most of the trousers I have seen were looking hopelessly low waisted. Fortunately I snapped a pair of light grey trousers (very likely from a morning suit) which matched all the above conditions! They fit like a glove and will only need to be hemmed.
Cost - 10 £ (really!)

Now the real trouble. The colour of the trousers is a light silver-ish gray which in my opinion looks good in contrast with the very dark grey of the morning coat and creates a sleek look that flatters me. However, I am now troubled to find a waistcoat that can fit into this colour combination. As far as I know, the traditional options were dove gray and buff, the latter one being practically impossible to find nowadays.

I believe that a dove gray waistcoat would look too close to the shade of the trousers, making the overall effect a bit dull. It would be tough to find one that has the right material texture and colour, moreover.

It is unrealistic that I can find a better fitting pair of trousers with the same characteristics, so I would really like to keep these.
I have seen around that the following options have been practised:

1) ivory, off white or even cream waistcoat. This would be a kind of alternative to buff and garments in this shade are not impossible to find even in decent cuts. But would, for example, an ivory waistcoat look good with almost-black coat and light grey trousers?

2) dark/medium gray waistcoat, a shade darker than trousers, considerably lighter than coat. I have seen this option in some online pictures and it seemed to work but I would like to ask for some external advice. I have the fear that such combination might emphasise too much my long and slim legs.

3) duck egg waistcoat, a very pale shade of blue. No idea if it would work with my ensemble, neither if this option is considered gauche by the traditional rules.

Any comment on this would be very appreciated. Of course I will post pictures when the outfit is complete!

Edit:
here is a picture trying to show the difference in shade between coat and trousers. Trousers are actually a tiny bit less bright than pictured.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

A vintage dinner suit that was made by a tailor in Blumenau - SC. Details are amazing. Link closure, suspender buttons, a buttoned fly and the proper braid on the outer seams of the trousers. All made of a heavy wool barathea.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Trying the vintage dinner suit. It fits. No adjustments. Trousers sit just perfect on my natural waist, the hem is correct. The jacket fits me well too.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Official photo

 

[PeterB]

Official photo
View attachment 144326

Very not to say extremely elegant. Square shoulders look great.

 

[Mathematicus]

I got married last Saturday and I wanted to share my outfit!

I wore a black tailcoat made by Montague Burton sometime in the 30s, a pair of dark grey herringbone trousers with fishtail back (bespoke made), a dove grey vest (also bespoke made) and a micro-check silver/black ascot tie with a wing detachable collar.

I loved the fact that the heavy cloth of the tailcoat and trousers, paired with the very high armholes and close fit of the jacket made the pictures to come superbly, not a wrinkle on sight!

Here's an example (taken at the end of the day and with a mobile phone, so not really representative). You can also see the bride on the right!

 

[Big Man]

I got married last Saturday and I wanted to share my outfit!

I wore a black tailcoat made by Montague Burton sometime in the 30s, a pair of dark grey herringbone trousers with fishtail back (bespoke made), a dove grey vest (also bespoke made) and a micro-check silver/black ascot tie with a wing detachable collar.

I loved the fact that the heavy cloth of the tailcoat and trousers, paired with the very high armholes and close fit of the jacket made the pictures to come superbly, not a wrinkle on sight!

Here's an example (taken at the end of the day and with a mobile phone, so not really representative). You can also see the bride on the right!

Congratulations on your wedding. You look sharp, but standing near such a lovely bride can make anyone look good.

 

[Faux Brummell]

Last year we celebrated our first wedding anniversary with afternoon tea and as we reach our second, it’s officially a tradition! Here we are at the Baccarat Hotel.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Vintage abalone/rolled gold shirt studs and cufflinks set

Vintage waistcoat studs in mother of pearl and sterling silver

 

[Edward]

I am looking for some morning wear advice!

Long story short, I am getting married next February in my hometown (Italy) and since we decided the date and agreed on the fact that I'll wear a morning coat, I have been looking around to find the right pieces of the best quality and fit possible without shelling a minimum of 1000 £ (in Italy it would cost you at least 2000 euros and it would be of the "modern eccentric" variety, as morning wear is not really practised anymore since 20s and 30).

With a lot of time and patience I finally found a beautiful hadmade morning coat in Oxford gray (very likely from the 50s) with nice unpadded shoulders that fit well with my square shoulder line. I had it altered by a competent London tailor to match my girlish waist and the result is great - total price including alterations 170 £.

The real trouble was to find a decent pair of trousers which could match. They had to satisfy the following conditions: 1) high rise with button for braces and back cut appropriately for a waistcoat, 2) decently close cut around hips 3) no pleats and possibly 4) solid colour (the traditional striped variety was fine for me but my mother insisted I got something in a solid shade of gray).

Most of the trousers I have seen were looking hopelessly low waisted. Fortunately I snapped a pair of light grey trousers (very likely from a morning suit) which matched all the above conditions! They fit like a glove and will only need to be hemmed.
Cost - 10 £ (really!)

Now the real trouble. The colour of the trousers is a light silver-ish gray which in my opinion looks good in contrast with the very dark grey of the morning coat and creates a sleek look that flatters me. However, I am now troubled to find a waistcoat that can fit into this colour combination. As far as I know, the traditional options were dove gray and buff, the latter one being practically impossible to find nowadays.

I believe that a dove gray waistcoat would look too close to the shade of the trousers, making the overall effect a bit dull. It would be tough to find one that has the right material texture and colour, moreover.

It is unrealistic that I can find a better fitting pair of trousers with the same characteristics, so I would really like to keep these.
I have seen around that the following options have been practised:

1) ivory, off white or even cream waistcoat. This would be a kind of alternative to buff and garments in this shade are not impossible to find even in decent cuts. But would, for example, an ivory waistcoat look good with almost-black coat and light grey trousers?

2) dark/medium gray waistcoat, a shade darker than trousers, considerably lighter than coat. I have seen this option in some online pictures and it seemed to work but I would like to ask for some external advice. I have the fear that such combination might emphasise too much my long and slim legs.

3) duck egg waistcoat, a very pale shade of blue. No idea if it would work with my ensemble, neither if this option is considered gauche by the traditional rules.

Any comment on this would be very appreciated. Of course I will post pictures when the outfit is complete!

Edit:
here is a picture trying to show the difference in shade between coat and trousers. Trousers are actually a tiny bit less bright than pictured.

Too late to be of use here, BUT anyone looking for a waistcoat in this situation could do far worse than to consider one of the sand options here:

http://www.clermontdirect.com/waistcoats-c-47.html

Clermont Direct I've laways found to be great if you pick the right bits (I wouldn't buy a sb dj from them nowadays as they only do notch lapels. Technically not incorrect, but I'm not a fan myself. POcket flaps are easily removed (and even far more expensive brands do those nowadays). Their barentha wool items are very good indeed. My black lounge is entire from them. Lovely thing about certain types of formal wear is how little it changes over time!

 

[Peacoat]

Too late to be of use here, BUT anyone looking for a waistcoat in this situation could do far worse than to consider one of the sand options here:
http://www.clermontdirect.com/waistcoats-c-47.html
Pocket flaps are easily removed (and even far more expensive brands do those nowadays). Their barentha wool items are very good indeed. My black lounge is entire from them. Lovely thing about certain types of formal wear is how little it changes over time!

My dinner jackets are made so that the flap can be tucked inside the pocket, and it looks as though there was never a flap there. All that shows is the trim above the flap for a finished look.

For me, the link to Clermont above opens to a web page for Affiliate Future. Clermont is nowhere to be seen.

 

[Edward]

Hmn, they might not allow deep linking. Try the generic front door, clermontdirect.com or .co.uk

Their pocket flaps are the same, can be tucked and look jetted. Just seems a shame they put them there at all, but it's pretty common now even in very expensive otr stuff.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

New old find... tailcoat dated 1924.
Bespoke piece made by a Rio de Janeiro tailor. Good overall condition, mostly some stitching to fix here and there.
A nice fit to me. Also, this is now, officially the oldest garment I own.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

New old find... tailcoat dated 1924.
Bespoke piece made by a Rio de Janeiro tailor. Good overall condition, mostly some stitching to fix here and there.
A nice fit to me. Also, this is now, officially the oldest garment I own.

View attachment 527314 View attachment 527315 View attachment 527316 View attachment 527317 View attachment 527318 View attachment 527319 View attachment 527320 View attachment 527321 View attachment 527322

Nice details like the embroidered galons and slanted cuffs on trousers, proofed matching and dated - looks like a good catch!

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Nice details like the embroidered galons and slanted cuffs on trousers, proofed matching and dated - looks like a good catch!

Trying it on. It fits me well. Trousers too. It won't need any alterations....

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Trying it on in style....

 

[fabiovenhorst]

Debut of the 1924 dated tails. Orchestra concert. Opera hat from the same decade.

 

[dnjan]

Can someone remind me what the cone-shaped metal piece that a gentleman uses to hold a flower on his lapel is called?