Footwear to go with our jackets

[Tom71]

Flame Panda Moc Toe during a business retreat, inherited by @dudewuttheheck.

These boots are monuments! Never had heavier footwear before. The leather isn´t even that thick, but the whole construction is just a feast of details. The last rests on an outer sole as thick as an oak tree.

For the first time, I feel that I am wearing something borderline practical. I seriously could not run after a departing bus in these, and I have yet to see what a full day hiking through a city would do to my system. Yet, for two days of sitting in a conference room with short intermissions in the sun over a cup of coffee, they are infinitely attractive.

 

[Marc mndt]

C&J are great, but their loafers are a bit boring, IMO. On the other hand, Tod´s are really flamboyant (very Italian!) and super comfy, but I wear them down in perhaps 3-4 years with moderate wear.

I agree, C&J's can be a bit boring. There are some lesser known Italian makers who offer a great selection of penny / tassel loafers. I own several pairs of both brands and they're great quality:

https://eu.velasca.com/pages/moccasins-and-loafers

https://www.calzaturebelfiore.com/shop/mocassino-england-con-nappine/

 

[Marc mndt]

Did you get it from their shop in Paris?

Yep, their Madeleine store.

 

[Mich486]

Cool, thanks all for the replies re Alden availability outside of US.

I think C&J are awesome but often their lasts look a bit too elongated and dressier for my taste. I think the Coniston is their only boot model I like (though not a fan of 360 degree welt). I have a pair of their shoes I use for the office.

Alden in my view naturally sits in that spot in between workwear and more formal, and does that better than other makers. Part of the allure for me is also that they are a classic brand with a strong identity (or in other words… hype? ).
The price difference between US and Europe is quite the turn off though.

I’d like a pair of their cap toe boots on some generous last, a pair of tankers and some tassels… we’ll see

 

[Edward]

Danner look really nice. Much of their collection is a touch too modern for my aesthetic, but they dodo at lest one 'heritage' model which is similar to the Aero Jarrow or a Red Wing Blacksmith, pretty competitive price on the website at GBP199. If I was going to get seriously into hillwalking again, the Mountain range are a very classy, old school and still hugely practical hiking boot.

Sendra is the maker you need to go with, believe me. It's a no brainer. Best boot, best value. And by best I mean seriously good boot by any possible standard! Plus they have some mean brown hide, too.

Only thing Grinders' got goin' on for themselves are the shape of their boot and that's about it - Plus at the end of the day, the money you'd save doesn't justify crappy stitching (even though the boots themselves are tough and seem like they'd last a good while). Sendras are what, some 100 Euros more but the make is infinitely better, leather is nicer and the overall impression is that you got a premium Harness boot.

Current Frye's are okay, I guess, but rubber sole shouldn't even be an option for anyone who likes boots. I'd rather go with NewRock in that case.

Vintage Frye, on the other hand. . .

I still have my Grinders that were my first pair of engineers - £80 back in 2004. Very chunky. A decent boot and the manufacture is really nice on them, though the leather, while nice enough, is not of the quality of my RW / Chippewas /SJC, it's quite clear. Really chunky commando soles on them - not what I prefer aesthetically now, but I go back and forth about keeping them as they are great if the weather turns wet / snow. I like the man-made soles on my Chippewas, but yeah, with a harness leather (with a think rubber overlay) is definitely classier. Sendra look to have a nice reddish-brown option at the minute I will be looking into. Only shame is it would be nice if there was an option of a 7" shaft. I have a pair of Chipps engineers with that shorter shaft, and it makes them a really nice option in warmer weather. Three of four more inches shouldn't make a difference you'd think, but it does to a surprising degree.

Those Wolverine’s look good with a different heel. That’s been the one thing that has me looking at White’s semi-dress.

I like the contrast with the sole edges not being dyed black. I know that in reality has little to do with quality, but in practice it's a detail I see far more often on higher quality boots for whatever reason. (And a good excuse to own two pairs in black, one with blacked sole edges.... ).

Where do you guys in Europe buy Alden? They seem virtually unobtainable outside of the US as US shops can’t ship them abroad. Has anyone ever gone down the proxy route?

TBH, that's why I've avoided them. In the US, last I looked, a pair of Alden Indys were only a little more expensive than a pair of RW Iron Rangers, whereas over here, when you can find them, they tended to be at least GBP100 more (and that was before the value of the pound crashed against the dollar). Without wanting to do Alden down at all - they make great shoes - the only model they do that really sticks out as significantly than what anyone else produces is the Indy. I filled that gap for myself by buying a pair of the Wested "Adventurer" Boots. While I'm sure they're nowhere near as good as the "real" thing, at a quarter of the price they do well. Also hold their own well enough against my RWs and Lennons. Not as bullet proof I'm sure as the Lennons especially, but they have had a lot of wear and survived well. Slightly lighter weight, a touch dressier. TBH, I bought them not having especially high expectations, but I've been pleasantly surprised: for the money (around GBP100) they're a bargain. I would expect them to be double the price if they were made in the UK - of course, they are manufacture in China were relative labour costs are lower, and I should think the fact that (for the obvious reason) there's only one model, not half a dozen colours being offered, helps them keep the unit price down.

In terms of which jacket I wear my Westeds with, it's mostly a tweed blazer. I find them wonderful for work, especially on teaching days when I can be on my feet for two or three hours at a time during classes. I like to work the room when I teach, so I cover a lot of ground in that time!

 

[Salmosalar]

Cool, thanks all for the replies re Alden availability outside of US.

I think C&J are awesome but often their lasts look a bit too elongated and dressier for my taste. I think the Coniston is their only boot model I like (though not a fan of 360 degree welt). I have a pair of their shoes I use for the office.

Alden in my view naturally sits in that spot in between workwear and more formal, and does that better than other makers. Part of the allure for me is also that they are a classic brand with a strong identity (or in other words… hype? ).
The price difference between US and Europe is quite the turn off though.

I’d like a pair of their cap toe boots on some generous last, a pair of tankers and some tassels… we’ll see

I would strongly recommend having a look at Tricker's if you want something sturdy and classy but not too dressy - their heritage is in country boots and they do a range of boots with different sole options - they are my personal favourite for this sort of purpose - I would put them above brands like Loake and C&J in terms of quality and value for money, and on a similar level to Cleverley for craftsmanship (the latter being more dressy). They compare v favourably to the very top British brands - Lobb and Edward Green - and to my mind they are a better match with most leather jacket styles. I wear Trickers of some denomination most days, switching to Lennon when I am doing fieldwork and Cleverley/Lobb/C&J/Edward Green/Foster & Son for more formal / smarter wear….

 

[Harris HTM]

of course, they are manufacture in China

Not anymore, see a snapshot from the Wested FB page from June.
I had asked them about the welt method and they answered it is Goodyear welt. I really have no idea where they can make a goodyear welted pair at such prices outside China, I guess it is still somewhere in the far east. As for the claim "HAND MADE"... well whatever. Many manufacturers equal Hand Made to Hand Crafted for obvious reasons.

 

[Harris HTM]

The price difference between US and Europe is quite the turn off though.

If you're lucky enough you can find shops where they still have some items in stock before the Trump wars (a pair of boots will cost around 800-900e). This is not that far off than the price you'd pay for in the US (804$ = 680e without sales tax).
https://aldenmadison.com/collection/cap-toe-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-4060/
You can also check Vinted, I see some rather good deals on Aldens.

 

[Schambach]

@Edward I'd stay away from Danners. I've had several pairs and the quality has gone down over the years. For the price of the Danner heritage stuff, you could pay a little more for other PNW boots(Whites/Wesco/Nicks), and end up with a much nicer boot.

 

[Mich486]

I found this Dutch shop that has what seems to me one of the widest selection in Europe: https://www.fransboonestore.com/collections/alden

Now I forgot that I live in a special part of Europe up north where on top of the Trump mark up I’d have to pay the Boris/Cameron mark up too if I buy them from an EU shop.

Seriously though, there are very few UK stockists it seems and they only have a very underwhelming selection, basically none of the styles I’m after. It’s hard to get them in the UK. Gotta look at the second hand market in Japan again it seems…

 

[Harris HTM]

I found this Dutch shop that has what seems to me one of the widest selection in Europe

Yep, this guy has really a lot of Alden's.
Strange enough I have never come across anyone in the Netherlands wearing Alden's so I have my doubts whether the market here is big or if he mainly does business internationally.

 

[Salmosalar]

Edward Green Oxford brogues with Aero Slimfit MC jacket in rust goatskin suede….

 

[Edward]

Not anymore, see a snapshot from the Wested FB page from June.
I had asked them about the welt method and they answered it is Goodyear welt. I really have no idea where they can make a goodyear welted pair at such prices outside China, I guess it is still somewhere in the far east. As for the claim "HAND MADE"... well whatever. Many manufacturers equal Hand Made to Hand Crafted for obvious reasons. View attachment 358644

Interesting, I missed that. I wonder where? Without getting into the politics of it, I know China has recently had tensions with the UK and the EU, so it may be that they moved manufacture to avoid any concerns of problems. I can't imagine they could be make in the UK without doubling the price. Be interesting to compare a new pair with mine, see if there's any obvious differences.

@Edward I'd stay away from Danners. I've had several pairs and the quality has gone down over the years. For the price of the Danner heritage stuff, you could pay a little more for other PNW boots(Whites/Wesco/Nicks), and end up with a much nicer boot.

That's a pity - useful to know, though - thanks!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Flame Panda Moc Toe during a business retreat, inherited by @dudewuttheheck.

These boots are monuments! Never had heavier footwear before. The leather isn´t even that thick, but the whole construction is just a feast of details. The last rests on an outer sole as thick as an oak tree.

For the first time, I feel that I am wearing something borderline practical. I seriously could not run after a departing bus in these, and I have yet to see what a full day hiking through a city would do to my system. Yet, for two days of sitting in a conference room with short intermissions in the sun over a cup of coffee, they are infinitely attractive.

View attachment 358642

So glad you're enjoying them! I still say they're the best designed moc toes around.

 

[Tom71]

So glad you're enjoying them! I still say they're the best designed moc toes around.

Thanks, Jake! I am, and they are! Despite the weight, they are actually pretty comfy for anything not exactly resembling exercise. Plus - perhaps unsurprisingly - I received quite a few very positive comments on them.

 

[Marc mndt]

For the first time, I feel that I am wearing something borderline practical. I seriously could not run after a departing bus in these, and I have yet to see what a full day hiking through a city would do to my system.

All those chunky American heritage style boots look great but I always wondered how comfortable / practical those thick double/triple leather soles really are for daily use.

Seriously though, there are very few UK stockists it seems and they only have a very underwhelming selection, basically none of the styles I’m after. It’s hard to get them in the UK.

Which isn't all that surprising imo. Who needs American made shoes when you have all those great local Northampton shoemakers.

I think C&J are awesome but often their lasts look a bit too elongated and dressier for my taste.

Alden in my view naturally sits in that spot in between workwear and more formal

This depends on how you define workwear. I guess Americans would think of a Jumper or Logger boot. Scottish and Irish farmers wore Oxford or Derby brogues for outdoor / country wear.

 

[navetsea]

can you walk normally with double or triple leather outsole? can you squat in them? The first line I say when custom ordering is single layer outsole and then I will add that rubber pad and change the pad everytime it needs changing, so far I haven't resoled anything.

 

[MrProper]

I'm probably a philistine and screwed up by my trail running shoes, because somehow I think the Heritage shoes look pretty good (if the heel isn't too high), but are actually rather uncomfortable. At least they are my Iron Ranger. Will try redwing me toe and rover soon. Maybe they are more comfortable. Otherwise, I'm afraid I'll have to stick with Timberland and Sorel after all. Lol

 

[Mich486]

All those chunky American heritage style boots look great but I always wondered how comfortable / practical those thick double/triple leather soles really are for daily use.



Which isn't all that surprising imo. Who needs American made shoes when you have all those great local Northampton shoemakers.





This depends on how you define workwear. I guess Americans would think of a Jumper or Logger boot. Scottish and Irish farmers wore Oxford or Derby brogues for outdoor / country wear.

Yeah perhaps you are right regarding the lack of their availability in the UK. I live half an hour drive from Northampton by the way… lol… many great makers there for sure. Have a few Trickers and a pair of Crockett and Jones shoes.

But you know is a bit like if you really want a Corvette you don’t just settle for the Jaguar equivalent… (might be a bad example but you get what I mean).

Also, Alden shoes are traditionally associated with Horween cordovan. I get that other shoemakers offer it too nowadays but it’s a relatively recent thing and a bit of a side gig. My understanding is that cordovan is not traditionally intended for formal wear.

 

[Tom71]

can you walk normally with double or triple leather outsole? can you squat in them? The first line I say when custom ordering is single layer outsole and then I will add that rubber pad and change the pad everytime it needs changing, so far I haven't resoled anything.

Actually, I find the boots with the sturdier sole-construction pretty eays to deal with: Thinking about say a Viberg 310, William Lennon or these Flame Pandas, the sole is pre-curved to allow the "natural" rolling of the feet. Walking is fine; squatting no problem.
E.G. all things RedWing or similar boots I find really comfortbale, whereas in Sneakers, I always have the feeling that my foots is basically unsupported . Guess I am lucky, because I don´t ever get blisters or sores, not even in skiing boots.

Issue with the FP´s (if there actually is one and not just a different sensation) is rather the sheer weight, combined with a pretty stiff construction and 1,5 inch of material between the pavement and the feet.
But hey, don´t get me wrong: I am NOT complaining. These boots are great! I am just trying to convey my impressions which are so different from other boots.