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Footwear to go with our jackets

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Sagara Cordmaster, olive badalassi with black overdye

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Psant25

One Too Many
Messages
1,608
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scurvyfreedman

Familiar Face
Messages
62
My boot collection. The top row are all Aldens. The two newest arrivals are the plaza lasted cigar shell and the grant lasted whiskey shell next to them. The bottom row includes a dress balmoral boot from Crockett and Jones and two from Alfred Sargent. I don't have enough jackets to pair with them, but I have a Thedi on order from Thurston Bros that should come just in time for fall.
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Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
My boot collection. The top row are all Aldens. The two newest arrivals are the plaza lasted cigar shell and the grant lasted whiskey shell next to them. The bottom row includes a dress balmoral boot from Crockett and Jones and two from Alfred Sargent. I don't have enough jackets to pair with them, but I have a Thedi on order from Thurston Bros that should come just in time for fall.
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That's a great collection of Alden's. Guys in the US are lucky - in the EU you can find only black and no.8 shell cordovan Alden's. I think my next major buy will be either the C&J Harlech or the Carmina 80184 in whiskey shell.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,445
That's a great collection of Alden's. Guys in the US are lucky - in the EU you can find only black and no.8 shell cordovan Alden's. I think my next major buy will be either the C&J Harlech or the Carmina 80184 in whiskey shell.
Twice a year Carmina has their custom weekend (23% discount on custom mto shoes).

Their summer edition was last weekend, I ordered a pair of Norwegian split toes. A pair of fully customized cordovans would cost you about €850, which is a pretty good deal imo. Quality wise (attention to detail) I place Carmina above Alden or benchgrade C&J.
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
Twice a year Carmina has their custom weekend (23% discount on custom mto shoes).

Their summer edition was last weekend, I ordered a pair of Norwegian split toes. A pair of fully customized cordovans would cost you about €850, which is a pretty good deal imo. Quality wise (attention to detail) I place Carmina above Alden or benchgrade C&J.
Yes, this is what I've also heard, that Carmina pays much more attention to detail compared to Alden. However, this comes mostly from people who actually do not own Alden's but have just come across some pairs. There was a member here, probably in the very same thread, who actually owns both brands and he disagrees with this statement.
As I have never owned a Carmina, but being a happy owner, among many other brands, of 4 pairs of Aldens and 4 pairs of C&J's (both bench- and handgrade), I can tell you that the Alden's could indeed pay more attention to the finishing of details.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,445
Yes, this is what I've also heard, that Carmina pays much more attention to detail compared to Alden. However, this comes mostly from people who actually do not own Alden's but have just come across some pairs. There was a member here, probably in the very same thread, who actually owns both brands and he disagrees with this statement.
As I have never owned a Carmina, but being a happy owner, among many other brands, of 4 pairs of Aldens and 4 pairs of C&J's (both bench- and handgrade), I can tell you that the Alden's could indeed pay more attention to the finishing of details.

A few weeks ago I tried on these Aldens in a store in Rotterdam. Cordovan #8. Didn't buy them because they had an obvious flaw on the backstay / heel counter. Too bad I didn't take a photo of the flaw.

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Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
A few weeks ago I tried on these Aldens in a store in Rotterdam. Cordovan #8. Didn't buy them because they had an obvious flaw on the backstay / heel counter. Too bad I didn't take a photo of the flaw.

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BOTH in Rotterdam right? I got this very same pair years ago. By coincidence I was there yesterday, there was a discoloured pair of 975, no.8, that was probably left for too long under the sun in the shop window, really fascinating what the sun radiation can do. In general I'm not impressed with this shop.
As I told you: I own 4 pairs of Alden's. 2 of them are perfect regarding finishing. The 3rd is ok, some minor details that are not deal-breakers. The 4th one however (my Indy boot) has obvious flaws on the welt. Not any structural issues, however not something you'd expect regarding the price.
 
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scurvyfreedman

Familiar Face
Messages
62
I have one pair of C&J handgrade, one benchgrade, 6 pairs of Alfred Sargents, 8 pairs of Aldens, and one Edward Green. Edward Green are the finest of them all. It's in a different class among those I own. The finishing of the leather, closeness of the welt, and stitching of the upper are all ahead of everyone else. C&J handgrade are next only because the leather is more supple than the Sargents, but the finishing is equal. Then AS, then C&J benchgrade. Alden is not as neat at stitching the upper, although I think the leather and suede quality is equal to C&J and AS. As you can see Alden is my favorite for boots. The suede, leather, cordovan, chamois and various sole and heel options create almost an infinite number of combinations. If you keep searching, one authorized dealer or another will make exactly what you're looking for. I don't like most of Alden's lasts for dress shoes. I prefer the English makers. But, for rugged boots I don't think anyone beats Alden. The upcharge for MTO from the English makers for boots make them prohibitive. I find their stock boots much less interesting. I'm sure EG is still finer for boots, but I'm not sure it makes a difference to me if I'm wearing them as intended.

The "rare" cordovan colors I have are because of a long-term relationship with one dealer. I think there are European Alden dealers who have lists for rare shell too, but even in the US, the lists are not advertised. They are invite only or you have to ask the right person once you have a long-term relationship. It's kind of like buying a sport Patek or Rolex Daytona.
 

scurvyfreedman

Familiar Face
Messages
62
BOTH in Rotterdam right? I got this very same pair years ago. By coincidence I was there yesterday, there was a discoloured pair of 975, no.8, that was probably left for too long under the sun in the shop window, really fascinating what the sun radiation can do. In general I'm not impressed with this shop.
As I told you: I own 4 pairs of Alden's. 2 of them are perfect regarding finishing. The 3rd is ok, some minor details that are not deal-breakers. The 4th one however (my Indy boot) has obvious flaws on the welt. Not any structural issues, however not something you'd expect regarding the price.

In the Alden community, sun faded color #8 is sought after as long as it's relatively even between the two shoes. There is an expectation that different panels may not fade equally.
 
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Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
In the Alden community, sun faded color #8 is sought after as long as it's relatively even between the two pairs. There is an expectation that different panels may not fade equally.
Yes I know, I've seen many posts from Alden fans on Instagram where they deliberately let their Alden's under the sun and monitor the evolution!
The 975 I referred to was exactly as you described: different panels had different fading.
 

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