Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Footwear to go with our jackets

Ayeteael

A-List Customer
Messages
333
Location
Atlanta
Next up are my Wesco x Standard and Strange Knuckle Draggers in Horween dark olive waxed flesh


These boots should be higher on my list of favorite boots than they are (this is #11). Wesco makes a beautifully designed engineer boot on the MP toe last, especially with all the nice details that Standard and Strange chose. They took forever to break in, but now that they have broken in they are almost comfortable. This pair of boots has an actual double midsole and it took absolutely forever to break these things in. I had a lot less boots when I first got these and it still took me a whole year to break these in. In addition, there are a few personal issues that I have with them that have placed them so far down on this list, which is probably a shockingly low placement for people who know how much I love engineer boots. The construction is solid and the finishing is OK, so that is not the issue I have with them, though I do wish they were more even with their SPI on the area where the vamp and shaft meet. Wesco, like Nick's, Whites, and Viberg aren't known for gorgeous construction and these are no exception. There's nothing wonky which is nice, but it's not as beautiful in terms of finishing as many of my other boots.


No, the two biggest issues with these are the heel slip and the leather. Heel slip is inevitable on an engineer boot and I have no issue with that in general. At this point, I am just used to it. I have worn engineers all day long walking around Japan with no issue. However, even after break in the heel slip on these is absolutely atrocious. If I will be walking a lot during the day, I cannot wear these. I also fell out of love with the leather. It’s not black or brown and everyone thought it was black so I just overdyed them black myself. They look better now, but I just wish I had chosen a different leather, such as the natural veg tan on the Van Cleef engineers. There will be a follow up review on these boots in the near future to discuss all of this more, so look out for that.

The pictures will actually chronicle how I have changed the look of these over time.

This is how they looked originally:
f6tqPNn.jpg


After a couple of years, I decided to make them actually black, especially because they usually looked black anyway. I just polished them with black shoe polish and they looked like this:
ppJizZT.jpg

qFV8K3G.jpg


I didn't love this because it was kind of half-hearted. I decided to actually dye them black all over. This was done in October with Saphir leather dye.
snDrZlZ.jpg

8WM0uhE.jpg


This was better, but it still wasn't quite right. They were too matte. My buddy, Kreosote boots (a bootmaker in the US) gave me some tips on polishing them to improve the look. I ended up conditioning them and then wax polishing them all over and now they look MUCH better than they did with just the polish and just the dye.
xeLcb73.jpg


I'm not saying this is an actual improvement over the original, but I like it a lot more. I don't love boots that I can't match easily to my leather jackets and now these match very well with my Freewheelers Mulholland. I'm pretty happy with how they look now.
You teacored your teacore boots. Rad. Now these boots are uniquely yours. Bet they'll look even better with bits of green showing through.
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
Next up are my Wesco x Standard and Strange Knuckle Draggers in Horween dark olive waxed flesh


These boots should be higher on my list of favorite boots than they are (this is #11). Wesco makes a beautifully designed engineer boot on the MP toe last, especially with all the nice details that Standard and Strange chose. They took forever to break in, but now that they have broken in they are almost comfortable. This pair of boots has an actual double midsole and it took absolutely forever to break these things in. I had a lot less boots when I first got these and it still took me a whole year to break these in. In addition, there are a few personal issues that I have with them that have placed them so far down on this list, which is probably a shockingly low placement for people who know how much I love engineer boots. The construction is solid and the finishing is OK, so that is not the issue I have with them, though I do wish they were more even with their SPI on the area where the vamp and shaft meet. Wesco, like Nick's, Whites, and Viberg aren't known for gorgeous construction and these are no exception. There's nothing wonky which is nice, but it's not as beautiful in terms of finishing as many of my other boots.


No, the two biggest issues with these are the heel slip and the leather. Heel slip is inevitable on an engineer boot and I have no issue with that in general. At this point, I am just used to it. I have worn engineers all day long walking around Japan with no issue. However, even after break in the heel slip on these is absolutely atrocious. If I will be walking a lot during the day, I cannot wear these. I also fell out of love with the leather. It’s not black or brown and everyone thought it was black so I just overdyed them black myself. They look better now, but I just wish I had chosen a different leather, such as the natural veg tan on the Van Cleef engineers. There will be a follow up review on these boots in the near future to discuss all of this more, so look out for that.

The pictures will actually chronicle how I have changed the look of these over time.

This is how they looked originally:
f6tqPNn.jpg


After a couple of years, I decided to make them actually black, especially because they usually looked black anyway. I just polished them with black shoe polish and they looked like this:
ppJizZT.jpg

qFV8K3G.jpg


I didn't love this because it was kind of half-hearted. I decided to actually dye them black all over. This was done in October with Saphir leather dye.
snDrZlZ.jpg

8WM0uhE.jpg


This was better, but it still wasn't quite right. They were too matte. My buddy, Kreosote boots (a bootmaker in the US) gave me some tips on polishing them to improve the look. I ended up conditioning them and then wax polishing them all over and now they look MUCH better than they did with just the polish and just the dye.
xeLcb73.jpg


I'm not saying this is an actual improvement over the original, but I like it a lot more. I don't love boots that I can't match easily to my leather jackets and now these match very well with my Freewheelers Mulholland. I'm pretty happy with how they look now.
To be honest I like how each and every variation of these boots looked. Too bad about the awful heel slip. Also side not Gabbard is crazy talented. One day I’ll own a pair of his boots. Crazy expensive. And I’m not complaining. I’ve commented this on some of the boot FB groups I’ve seen you in as well. They are ridiculously expensive. But not out of line for what they are. A lot of places say handmade-but he literally does everything possible stepto be done by hand-well, by hand. Uses all the best materials. And does his own unique finishing dyes and oils. Similar to how Thedi has his signature wash. Takes him 40-60 hours per one boot. As Carl M. Put it he’s a master craftsmen and would you complain paying a master electrician or plumber 15-20 bucks an hour? No, that would actually be cheap. I know you know all this man. So I’m preaching to the choir; but for anyone else interested if you have the money check out Kreosote. Really unique takes on some classic styles, all handmade, US made, and don’t be shocked at the cost.
 
Last edited:

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
Cool boots dude. I’m surprised though that you think it’s normal to have heel slip in engineer boots. In my experience when they fit well there is no slippage. I thought it’s more a sign of the boots being too big. Also heel slip means that you get blisters after walking which can’t be right.
 

Schambach

Practically Family
Messages
572
Location
Ithaca, NY
Thanks for the review of the Nicks boots Dude. They are on my radar. I am looking for a heavy duty lace up work boot. I am torn between Nicks and Wesco jobmasters. I want to buy one and done. More worried about fit, durability, and comfort than finish/neatness.

You might want to add Whites to the list, and I can't recommend Bakers shoes and Kyle enough in terms of fitting(for Whites or Wescos). My Whites bounty hunters from Bakers are the most comfortable boots I've ever owned, and built like absolute tanks.
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
1175E192-0471-4066-A685-04B129F3BFFC.jpeg
Stopped into the local Army/Navy yesterday and got these Canadian Navy Chukkas. These are fairly ugly but I wish you all could feel them. I’ve never felt anything built as solid as these. Not even any other military boots. Not Nicks nor Frank’s. They just feel like they can survive a nuclear blast. The leather on these is thick and inside glove leather lined. Soles tough enough to break a shin bone in one kick to the leg ha. By chance an employee stopped me to chat. Turns out it was the owner. I got to know him and he was super nice and informative. He told me how he supplies 7 other army navy shops in the greater western New York area. Receives surplus from 20 different militaries. He has a warehouse that he said is about 10xs the size of the shop. Coincidently he wants to break into the Japanese market and supply there. While we chatted I told him about my extensive biker history and how I recently got into some military. Gave me his info. I’m going to give him my knowledge of the little military/fashion world and he just may give me a tour of that warehouse.
E148C8DC-4448-4D32-9171-CCD60FE51B4C.jpeg
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,422
You teacored your teacore boots. Rad. Now these boots are uniquely yours. Bet they'll look even better with bits of green showing through.

Yeah it will be really interesting to see how the green shows through this.

To be honest I like how each and every variation of these boots looked. Too bad about the awful heel slip. Also side not Gabbard is crazy talented. One day I’ll own a pair of his boots. Crazy expensive. And I’m not complaining. I’ve commented this on some of the boot FB groups I’ve seen you in as well. They are ridiculously expensive. But not out of line for what they are. A lot of places say handmade-but he literally does everything possible stepto be done by hand-well, by hand. Uses all the best materials. And does his own unique finishing dyes and oils. Similar to how Thedi has his signature wash. Takes him 40-60 hours per one boot. As Carl M. Put it he’s a master craftsmen and would you complain paying a master electrician or plumber 15-20 bucks an hour? No, that would actually be cheap. I know you know all this man. So I’m preaching to the choir; but for anyone else interested if you have the money check out Kreosote. Really unique takes on some classic styles, all handmade, US made, and don’t be shocked at the cost.

Thanks! Yeah he's very talented. His value for money actually seems to be pretty good along the likes of Flame Panda and Onderhoud. Really nice guy as well.

Cool boots dude. I’m surprised though that you think it’s normal to have heel slip in engineer boots. In my experience when they fit well there is no slippage. I thought it’s more a sign of the boots being too big. Also heel slip means that you get blisters after walking which can’t be right.

Well it's normal for me, even with my Role Clubs which fit incredible and were made after Brian took personal measurements of my feet. He said the heel slip is inescapable. I even had heel slip on an older pair of Clinch that were unquestionably too small for me. It's not just general size, it's down to exactly how your feet are shaped as well. General foot size is not the only determiner here.

Also, I do not get blisters even with heel slip on most of my engineers. I've worn my Clinch engineers on 16 hour days in Japan with no blisters at all.
 

Ayeteael

A-List Customer
Messages
333
Location
Atlanta
I just received these Onderhouds last night so this isn't really a review. It's more of an initial impression. These are absolute units. They fit incredibly well and I love the color, proportions, and aesthetics. The stitching and welt are also very neat and clean. The only complaints I have are the Wickett and Craig harness leather had multiple discoloration spots (in photos below) and nicks, and 3 of the 4 leather flaps on the inside portion of the speedhooks weren't glued down. None of these issues are dealbreakers or have any impact on function, but they took a little shine off the Onderhoud mystique in my mind. They are still fabulous boots and I would order again in a heartbeat, but when everything else is fantastic you expect all parts of the boots to be immaculate, so any imperfections stand out. These QC complaints may also not be Onderhoud's fault, since I've read that this particular leather is prone to discolorations and is difficult to work with. Plus, I know the imperfections in the leather will not be noticeable the more I wear them, and these boots are meant to be used and abused. Overall, I'm very pleased with these boots and hope to order again from Onderhoud in the future.

IMG_5389.jpg IMG_5388.jpg IMG_5387.jpg IMG_5386.jpg IMG_5385.jpg IMG_5378.jpg IMG_5367.jpg IMG_5368.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I just received these Onderhouds last night so this isn't really a review. It's more of an initial impression. These are absolute units. They fit incredibly well and I love the color, proportions, and aesthetics. The stitching and welt are also very neat and clean. The only complaints I have are the Wickett and Craig harness leather had multiple discoloration spots (in photos below) and nicks, and 3 of the 4 leather flaps on the inside portion of the speedhooks weren't glued down. None of these issues are dealbreakers or have any impact on function, but they took a little shine off the Onderhoud mystique in my mind. They are still fabulous boots and I would order again in a heartbeat, but when everything else is fantastic you expect all parts of the boots to be immaculate, so any imperfections stand out. These QC complaints may also not be Onderhoud's fault, since I've read that this particular leather is prone to discolorations and is difficult to work with. Plus, I know the imperfections in the leather will not be noticeable the more I wear them, and these boots are meant to be used and abused. Overall, I'm very pleased with these boots and hope to order again from Onderhoud in the future.

View attachment 315948 View attachment 315949 View attachment 315950 View attachment 315951 View attachment 315952 View attachment 315953 View attachment 315954 View attachment 315955

Another one for the rotation! Love this, great work! Will that leather darken over time?
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Ya man. They should darken nicely.
I’ve still got a Nicks and my flame pandas in the works, but I’ve told myself no new orders in 2021 since I’m covered!

That's great so it should even out with the darker spots later on.
Got it, I keeep saying the same thing to myself hahaha
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
These need a few touch up spots, but finally got around to dubbing my ATF Type 3 Service boots. I used some Huberds Shoe Grease as it’s an old company that is very similar to how must dubs were back then. After a few touch ups these will be ready to rock.
4571E47A-2C70-4E82-ADB8-FBA8CBD451DD.jpeg
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
These need a few touch up spots, but finally got around to dubbing my ATF Type 3 Service boots. I used some Huberds Shoe Grease as it’s an old company that is very similar to how must dubs were back then. After a few touch ups these will be ready to rock. View attachment 316111

Looks so much better after it darkened! I wished I did that treatment with my old redwing. Nice!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,246
Messages
3,077,140
Members
54,183
Latest member
UrbanGraveDave
Top