Folkwear Pattern: #130 Australian Bush Outfit

[MissQueenie]

I've been eyeing this pattern for ages now, but I confess that I'm a little intimidaetd by it. Has anyone used this particular pattern before? I like to get an idea of what the pattern's quirks are before I throw myself into it. The basic construction of the jacket and trousers doesn't appear to be overly complex...it's the bells and whistles that present challenges (eek, are those inverted pleats in the pockets?!). Lauren has mentioned that Folkwear patterns usually run very true to size, so that's a plus. I guess I'm scared off by the hideous mid-80s "fashion" shots of the garments (which never seem to fit the models anyway).

Fabric suggestions? It needs to be "easy care" in the truest sense -- I either need to be able to wash it with frequency or not at all (wool) -- and in a perfect world I'd be able to layer under it when the weather turns.

Also, purely feminine concern, but...are the trousers going to make up frumpily? I'm 5'2 on a good day and I have to be very careful about trousers being excessively wide or baggy, thus making me look like a 12 year old boy.

And has anyone tried the Turkish Coat (#106)?

 

["Doc" Devereux]

Thinking about fabric, I was discussing this with Indy Magnoli for a suit I've ordered.* We ended up going for 12oz cotton on the grounds that it wears well, breathes well and can be washed in a bucket when necessary - all of which were part of the spec.

I see what you mean about the photo, by the way:

Poor love's got her sola topi all wonky! lol I much prefer the other illustration:

* Yes, there will be photos. There might even be a whole new thread with photos!

 

[MissQueenie]

I'm tempted by a nice mid-weight cotton or cotton-linen blend. It needs to breathe, and it needs to be able to take some substantial abuse (though not as much as I had originally anticipated as I will be operating in the field laboratory most of the time...). It needs to be cool in hot weather, and warm in cold weather, and the best thing I've found for that is anything that breathes well and wicks away moisture.

I'm glad someone else thinks that poor woman looks frumpy. It looks like a badly made costume...unforgivably ill-fitting.

I can't wait to see photos of your new suit, Doc!

 

[Lauren]

Yeah, folkwear has THE worst pictures ever. They look like bad 80's movies. They look much better when made up and on a person not sporting the "romanticized and fogged over lense faraway look", for lack of a better description.

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you do use linen make sure it's pre washed before construction. Linen cotton blends to me tend to get hotter than straight linen or straight cotton. Cotton is nice, though looks grubbier to me than straight linen... more of a depression era look than a safari.

Just don't go for burlap.

 

[BellyTank]

Linen...

When I hold the jacket of my linen suit(unlined)up to the light, there is so much daylight visible- that helps make for an airy garment.
I wore that suit to a wedding on Sunday and was the only person there wearing a full suit- never took the jacket off.
I was cool.

A medium weight linen would be great- linen fibre is very hard, crisp and durable. It can be washed and loves the iron.

You need a linen with a hard finish and not too fine of a yarn or weave.
The crisp stuff, with a nice, hard handle, not the hairy stuff. That's why linen is better than linen/cotton blends- and watch out for linen/rayon. 'Linen' has, unfortunately become something of a term for a textile which resembles linen but is not necessarily the real McCoy.

Go and look at some examples- feel the difference. The right thing, as I have described at least, is not necessarily the most expensive- the finer weaves, with finer yarns are expensive and of course, not suitable for a breathing, functioning garment for an active life in a hot and harsh environment.

LINEN.

Good luck!

B
T

 

["Doc" Devereux]

I'm tempted by a nice mid-weight cotton or cotton-linen blend. It needs to breathe, and it needs to be able to take some substantial abuse (though not as much as I had originally anticipated as I will be operating in the field laboratory most of the time...). It needs to be cool in hot weather, and warm in cold weather, and the best thing I've found for that is anything that breathes well and wicks away moisture.

Precisely so. That's exactly what I had in mind for the aforementioned suit: something that's as hardwearing as military kit, but in a completely civillian form. I disagree with Matt about the look, though, since with the assistance of a few well-chosen creases it can make a very sharp impression.

 

[MissQueenie]

I'm fairly familiar with both linen (and its imposters) and cotton, and while I would prefer to wear the former, I will not have access to an iron for 2 months. I'm concerned that a firm linen garment will have a far more crumbled appearance after a week of sweat and dirt than a firm cotton one would. I have no basis for this assumption other than the unpleasant experience of having deep, unattractive wrinkles and creases appear in linen skirts after sitting for 5 or 10 minutes, but it could be that those skirts are made out of the yarny, loose type of linen rather than a truly crisp weave. Linen seems to dry more quickly, too, so I might have to bite the bullet and make the stuff in linen. :eusa_doh: At least that way, there's a good chance I could do my washing more than once a week at best, if water isn't too scarce.

Matt, thanks for the warning re: blends. I had no idea!

The cargo pockets are the most tempting feature of this pattern!

Is khaki a little too "colonial"? As much as we have romantic associations with khaki, and as practical as it may be, I am a little concerned that I'll give the wrong impression if I'm dressed up like Captain Spalding.

 

[BellyTank]

Khaki is a very practical colour and a cool colour in the sun.

B
T

 

[Lauren]

Oh man, it can't be anything other than Khaki! It just screams to be made in khaki!

I think you're right about the linen wrinkling thing- but I think it's more breathable than cotton. Of course, if you're lining it stay clear of acetate and polyester. Best would be to leave it unlined and use a bias tape or serger to finish the seams on the inside. If you're going to be living and working in them for 2 months you want to make sure your fabric doesn't come unravelled!

 

[MissQueenie]

I think you're right about the linen wrinkling thing- but I think it's more breathable than cotton. Of course, if you're lining it stay clear of acetate and polyester. Best would be to leave it unlined and use a bias tape or serger to finish the seams on the inside. If you're going to be living and working in them for 2 months you want to make sure your fabric doesn't come unravelled!

I agree -- lining of any sort is just going to be a pain in the rear end, both in construction and in use. I'll have to come down for a visit so I can serge my edges I'll bring a lovely tea cake as a show of my infinate gratitude for Lauren the Wise, Preventer of Woeful Unravelling.

And if I look like I've been trampled my a herd of camels in every photograph because the linen is all wrinkled, you must promise to lie and say how well I look

I'm not going to buy the pattern until I finish my green dress (speaking of unravelling -- can I just pink the edges on the cotton dress?), my trousers, and my dress for seaside ball...Must...resist...

 

[dr greg]

bush?

As an australian who lives in the 'bush' I can categorically state I have NEVER seen anyone wearing anything remotely resembling that outfit, and I've been around more than once. Australian women wear COUNTRY ROAD or RIVERS stuff socially, and any old rubbish from K-Mart when actually working on their properties. RM Williams is the premier outfitter's for men and has a women's range for the well-heeled. That outfit belongs in Kenya.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

Well, since the outfit would be going to Jordan, I don't think it matters too much that its not accurate. lol

Much like many if not all things, interpretation occurs.

 

[dr greg]

comin for to carry me home

In that case it'll look very compatible and enable one to remain decorous onboard camels.

 

[MissQueenie]

In that case it'll look very compatible and enable one to remain decorous onboard camels.

Remaining decorous onboard camels is more difficult than one might imagine. Also, bareback on a bedouin horse is not a good idea, generally, though it does amuse the locals.

Folkwear is going for a semi-historical/vintage expedition look in this pattern, and describe it as the "hollywood" take on traditional bush clothing, so I am not at all surprised to hear it's not accurate. I frequently work in a far-from-glamorous sports bra and secondhand army fatigue pants...not at all the romantic vision of a Hollywood Archaeologist, but practical and inexpensive to replace.

 

[Lauren]

I agree -- lining of any sort is just going to be a pain in the rear end, both in construction and in use. I'll have to come down for a visit so I can serge my edges I'll bring a lovely tea cake as a show of my infinate gratitude for Lauren the Wise, Preventer of Woeful Unravelling.

And if I look like I've been trampled my a herd of camels in every photograph because the linen is all wrinkled, you must promise to lie and say how well I look

I'm not going to buy the pattern until I finish my green dress (speaking of unravelling -- can I just pink the edges on the cotton dress?), my trousers, and my dress for seaside ball...Must...resist...

It's a deal!

I like linen wrinkled- but I'm odd. I actually look at my wadded up wrinkled pants with joy and it's always sad for me to take an iron to them- but I'm a "bohemian" at heart, I guess. I think wrinkles would be very camel appropriate!

I think the pinked edges should be just fine. If you're really worried about it use a zig zag stitch. I know if I made the bush outfit (which is on my someday I will make list) I'd wear the heck out of it, so serging is the way to go if you know it's going to be washed frequently. Just make sure you serge the edges BEFORE you sew the pieces together. So bring your sewing machine down and we'll make a weekend of it

 

[dr greg]

the real thing

here's what the well dressed aussie bushwoman wore in the 30's

 

[ITG]

I love that hat on her!

 

[Mojave Jack]

Also, purely feminine concern, but...are the trousers going to make up frumpily? I'm 5'2 on a good day and I have to be very careful about trousers being excessively wide or baggy, thus making me look like a 12 year old boy.

Oh, please! I have a hard time picturing you looking "frumpy" in anything short of a potato sack! You will look smashing, of course, surplus army pants or otherwise.

 

[MissQueenie]

Oh, please! I have a hard time picturing you looking "frumpy" in anything short of a potato sack! You will look smashing, of course, surplus army pants or otherwise.

You're sweet, Jack, but you've also never seen me in too-big trousers I will find photos somewhere to prove that I do in fact look like a muppet in the field. Maybe I ought to have said "Muppety" instead of "Frumpy"...

S'okay though, I wear what I want, heedless of the fashion police!

I agree with Holly...that is a fantastic hat, Dr. Greg! Not so great for keeping the sun off, but lovely. The bottom half of her outfit looks like it could possibly resemble the Big Sky Riding Skirt (#231)...which I have been eyeing for a long while, but am scared off by the brutal fact that those are -- inescapably, truly, horrifyingly -- culottes. Great striped scarf she's got on, though! I wish really BIG cotton scarves with pretty colors/prints weren't so darn hard to find. Bandanas are okay, but not nearly as useful as a really large scarf/square. Might have to make my own and dye it.