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Fixing asymmetrical collar on Real McCoy's leather jacket

VansonRider

A-List Customer
Messages
367
Couple of thoughts…

First is that the arrow in your picture, pointing to the “problem” collar, is the one spreading like most people are trying to make there collar. The collar in your picture without the arrow, is doing more of a shirt collar thing. If you like the shirt collar bend, hang it zipped and folded down.
image.jpg


More common is to spread the collar, so hang it snapped open.


image.jpg


But eventually the whole jacket will go floppy and crinkly, fully soft and broken in, like this one…


image.jpg


With that in mind an often overlooked method of jacket storage is…


image.jpg



The old Vanson site used to suggest throwing your jacket on the floor of your closet to encourage break in! Then they started selling “wide shouldered shaper preserving ventilator hangers for 40 dollars each.


What I’m getting at, is leather continues to change as you wear it, and this training of the collar is very practical because it makes the jacket comfortable enough to wear it into that broken in state.
But for me it’s just a stage in the process.
Wear it a bunch, and wear it some more.

These guys below weren’t using binder clips on their collars, and I think they’ve got “The Look” down pretty solid! (Photos from 1968 journalism book by photographer Danny Lyon, The Bikeriders)




IMG_0149.jpeg


IMG_0148.jpeg
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,900
Location
East Java
leather can be shaped when damp not wet, you can wet the leather, to somewhat reset the creases, and then once the wetness is reduced into dampness almost dry, then you can shape it like clay and the shape will stay
 

DogFacePonySoldier

Familiar Face
Messages
64
Thanks, everyone I really appreciate the advice. The jacket is appearing to be doing better but I will also use the additional advice you guys helped me with.

Canuck Panda (lol funny name) I just unsnapped that location. It does appear that button is precipitating it. Unsnapped it during hanging

VansonRider

I can’t help but baby new leathers. Although I prefer the rugged look of a well worn jacket. Until I let it go, to the next stage, this is the stage of the jacket

OMG poor jacket tossed aside like some cheap floozy. lol

The only conditioners the bikers done was probably spilling booze on their jacket. And the style is awesome

Navetsea

I see the effects the next day after wetting and leaving the faux microfiber cloth padding under the collar. Would play with this clay concept because it’s pretty cool.

It’s shaping out better already.

What’s the difference between leaving jacket zipped or unzipped while hanging in the closet?

I don’t think I’ll ever venture out the house with pajamas and a leather.. but for research purposes I will.
 

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Harris HTM

One Too Many
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1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
Well, the main difference is that you are going to have to unzip the jacket once taking it out of the closet.
years ago I remember Ken from Aero mentioning at the VLJ forum that you should always hang your jacket unzipped. I really don't remember the reason behind it, but I guess he knows a thing or two about leather jackets.
 
Messages
16,912
years ago I remember Ken from Aero mentioning at the VLJ forum that you should always hang your jacket unzipped. I really don't remember the reason behind it, but I guess he knows a thing or two about leather jackets.

I can see two reasons - Zipped up, the front of the jacket will pull at where the zipper machine is, which might leave creases and secondly, you have to be careful unzipping a jacket that's not on the body as the angle isn't right no more. I've had few zippers skip teeth like that.
 
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Harris HTM

One Too Many
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1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
I can see two reasons - Zipped up, the front of the jacket will pull at where the zipper machine is, which might leave creases and secondly, you have to be careful unzipping a jacket that's not on the body as the angle isn't right no more. I've had few zippers skip teeth like that.
yeah, it did have to do with forming creases
 

DogFacePonySoldier

Familiar Face
Messages
64
If able… consult with the experts. I also heard DudsbyDel recommend unzipped so I’ll just leave it as that. Thanks for the input fellas.
 

floater

Familiar Face
Messages
93
^ This is what I do as well if I want to get the points wider. Took this:
View attachment 513696
To this:
View attachment 513697
Purely with the clips.

Just to avoid confusion I also color treated both jackets as well.
What did you use to color treat that first jacket?

And was it natural (undyed) leather to begin with?

I’d like to try something like that on natural hh cuz sunbathing isn’t doing much to get it out of the orange stage.
 
Messages
17,556
Location
Chicago
What did you use to color treat that first jacket?

And was it natural (undyed) leather to begin with?

I’d like to try something like that on natural hh cuz sunbathing isn’t doing much to get it out of the orange stage.
O it was sun faded chrome tanned tan. I used urad dark brown on it but for naked leather I would not. Would end up a smeared mess of splotchy gunk. For naked I’d buy some of that 80’s suntan oil for it. Or let nature run its course.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,900
Location
East Java
I hang most my jacket unzipped / unbuttoned so the time they spent hanging will also adding to break in the front panel to drape better, my goatskin and sheepskin is zipped on the hanger because they are thin, and i want to keep the area around the collar not fully crumpled.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,444
years ago I remember Ken from Aero mentioning at the VLJ forum that you should always hang your jacket unzipped.
Ken also recommends these useless hangers lol. He's right about hanging jackets unzipped though.

IMG_7057.jpeg

I really don't remember the reason behind it,
Same reason why suit jackets shouldn't be buttoned up when on a hanger: the front of a jacket is wider than the back. When buttoned / zipped up you will get a crease down the middle. Unzipped the panels cross each other, no crease down the middle.
 

Harris HTM

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
In the Depths of R'lyeh
Ken also recommends these useless hangers lol. He's right about hanging jackets unzipped though.

View attachment 651063

Same reason why suit jackets shouldn't be buttoned up when on a hanger: the front of a jacket is wider than the back. When buttoned / zipped up you will get a crease down the middle. Unzipped the panels cross each other, no crease down the middle.
yeah, these hangers are fine if the shoulder measurement is up to 17,5. Anything wider they are a disaster for your jacket.
 

DogFacePonySoldier

Familiar Face
Messages
64
Nice to get the science behind the unzipped theory and hanger choice.

One leather jacket in, and I feel like Alice peeking down the rabbit hole. What is the answers to
-Ideal leathers for different weathers
-how specific leathers and colors grains from country to manufacturer and how it ages.
-Brands, silhouettes, fits, quality, time periods
-where to get it.
-what to look for deciphering the appreciation

Not to mention a nice wool jacket which I am also interested in getting.

I love the smell of leather radiating my closet
 

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