Five Star Leather vs Johnson Leather for Custom Jackets

[TheDonEffect]

I’ll only add that I’ve spent over the cost of a new Aero or JL and received what I perceive to be (3 soon to be 4) very good jackets. So one could say it’s 4:1. While my custom JL surpassed all three five stars in terms of material quality, it was not stitched together any better, actually it was noticeably worse. But tbh that’s not something I care all that much about anyway.

I’ve owned quite a few jackets. I don’t think 5 star can truly compete with the “high” level (price) makers here strictly because the material playing field is not level. That’s why I find the comparison to be a non starter. You will spend four times what you would spend at 5 Star, not two. Having owned three or four JL’s ask me if they are four times better...you might not like what I have to say.

To my knowledge JL will not do a one off pattern for $660, which is what two MTM 5* will set you back. I think both makers do a great job at what they do. I still patronize my favorite makers and always will. But in my wardrobe there is plenty of room for both. I will say this too, and it’s an odd thing: I’m almost always somewhat disappointed with my more expensive jackets. With 5 Star I’ve had the opposite experience of being pleasantly surprised.

Hmm, my math says 2 maybe 3x, but 4x definitely not. I perused 5 Star and a jacket with HH alone can get into the 300s, I'm not entirely sure what a one off custom will run but I'm operating that a HH jacket will run into the 300s before shipping and all that. What Jin mentioned is about what I paid as well, but I do know that the jackets can jump in price depending on what other things are added and speced.

 

[Jin431]

^^ good to know, which distributor do you get your orders from?

 

[ton312]

Hmm, my math says 2 maybe 3x, but 4x definitely not. I perused 5 Star and a jacket with HH alone can get into the 300s, I'm not entirely sure what a one off custom will run but I'm operating that a HH jacket will run into the 300s before shipping and all that. What Jin mentioned is about what I paid as well, but I do know that the jackets can jump in price depending on what other things are added and speced.

My custom goats are $330 shipped from 5 Star. Paid $1.3k for my JL 4 years ago. Nothing that special. Existing pattern, JL garden variety overdye cxl. So that equates to four 5 stars give or take $20.
I did spec riri main zip over the YKK. But beyond that...I dunno. Reading what people have been paying 4-5 years later...Not sure why my jacket cost what it did. Doesn’t matter, it’s long gone now and like I said it was a great jacket. But... huh?
The jacket I ordered:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leathers-custom-1930-levi-reproduction.81631/

The jacket I received:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leathers-levi-repro-w-mods-galore.91798/

I linked Jon’s thread as reference for my build.

 

[Jin431]

Great deal for a top to bottom made to order one off (that helps the maker have a pattern for others who want the same thing) that fits to a tee and looks the part

 

[Hh121]

My custom goats are $330 shipped from 5 Star

That's pretty much is the price I paid for your JL.

 

[ton312]

That's pretty much is the price I paid for your JL.

Well you got a great deal! I’m not trying to bad mouth JL either. My point is, quite remarkably, I’ve had the least amount of mistakes with 5 star, and any that do exist, are my own.

 

[Hh121]

Well you got a great deal! I’m not trying to bad mouth JL either. My point is, quite remarkably, I’ve had the least amount of mistakes with 5 star, and any that do exist, are my own.

Exactly, those complex measurements (Langlitz) and moc up jacket don't guarantee a good fit, I will be very upset if I exchanged dozens of email, paid over 1k, and wait for 2 months and the finished jacket needs more tapered waist, shorter length, or back length is 1 inch shorter than moc up jacket.
I think 5 star is quite remarkable.

 

[Marc mndt]

Not sure why my jacket cost what it did.

Personally I hate this kind of price discrimination. I'm not saying that they do it on purpose but it certainly looks like they charged exceedingly more for a perfectly comparable jacket. I'd rather see a maker with a transparent price structure like Lost Worlds: Starting with a base price and then adding an upcharge for every customization option. Although LW's upcharges can be ridiculous imo. $250 for a different zipper

 

[Hh121]

Personally I hate this kind of price discrimination. I'm not saying that they do it on purpose but it certainly looks like they charged exceedingly more for a perfectly comparable jacket. I'd rather see a maker with a transparent price structure like Lost Worlds: Starting with a base price and then adding an upcharge for every customization option. Although LW's upcharges can be ridiculous imo. $250 for a different zipper

I don't know if $250 is only for change the main zipper to crown or all of the zippers including the chest and sleeves. You can purchase the same crown zipper (No.10) for $80 from Japan.

 

[TheDonEffect]

My custom goats are $330 shipped from 5 Star. Paid $1.3k for my JL 4 years ago. Nothing that special. Existing pattern, JL garden variety overdye cxl. So that equates to four 5 stars give or take $20.
I did spec riri main zip over the YKK. But beyond that...I dunno. Reading what people have been paying 4-5 years later...Not sure why my jacket cost what it did. Doesn’t matter, it’s long gone now and like I said it was a great jacket. But... huh?
The jacket I ordered:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leathers-custom-1930-levi-reproduction.81631/

The jacket I received:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/johnson-leathers-levi-repro-w-mods-galore.91798/

I linked Jon’s thread as reference for my build.

Yeah, from what I read on their site, the HHs are in the 300s going into the 400s, but at 1.3k that's still 3x more, so duely noted.

I actually remember seeing your thread when I was researching my first jacket, and it was largely an inspiration for mine, lol.

Yeah, that is weird with the pricing, from what I read and gathered was that custom orders are about 1k give or take so go go figure. Are you local?

 

[TheDonEffect]

Personally I hate this kind of price discrimination. I'm not saying that they do it on purpose but it certainly looks like they charged exceedingly more for a perfectly comparable jacket. I'd rather see a maker with a transparent price structure like Lost Worlds: Starting with a base price and then adding an upcharge for every customization option. Although LW's upcharges can be ridiculous imo. $250 for a different zipper

Yeah that is odd, I have my speculations but I'm not here to be a fanboi because frankly I'd want an explanation too.

Also, I was actually considering buying a 5 Star jacket for a gift for my brother, so hearing all of your positive reviews is encouraging.

 

[red devil]

I don't know if $250 is only for change the main zipper to crown or all of the zippers including the chest and sleeves. You can purchase the same crown zipper (No.10) for $80 from Japan.

Originals or repros of these zippers? Do you have a link? I wouldn't mind stocking up on a few

 

[dannyk]

I’m almost always somewhat disappointed with my more expensive jackets.

that’s my experience as well. With increased price, come increased expectations. Then you’ll see others great stories and great fits around here. When you combine the two sometimes the simplest flaws can really grind my gears. Or god forbid big flaws or bad customer service at the high end prices and it really leaves a bad taste in your mouth. There’s always an element of paying 330 like you have at 5 star which then allows for more mistakes or imperfections and still to be satisfied. Then if the experience and product exceed your expectations you feel amazing. At 1,300+ even if the jacket and service are perfect you’re not really satisfied or super excited because at that price you are expecting exactly that. You’re paying a lot and should receive a lot. I haven’t found my Goldilocks price range where everything meets exactly just right, but I know it’s not super cheap and it ain’t super expensive. Which of course those terms are also relative based on someone’s budget.

 

[Hh121]

Originals or repros of these zippers? Do you have a link? I wouldn't mind stocking up on a few

http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/cgi-bin/prd-eng.cgi?itemno=95-02-4824&ck=

 

[ton312]

Yeah, from what I read on their site, the HHs are in the 300s going into the 400s, but at 1.3k that's still 3x more, so duely noted.

I actually remember seeing your thread when I was researching my first jacket, and it was largely an inspiration for mine, lol.

Yeah, that is weird with the pricing, from what I read and gathered was that custom orders are about 1k give or take so go go figure. Are you local?

No I’m in Chicago and rereading what I wrote I want to reiterate that I’m certainly not bad mouthing JL. I just don’t see a comparison between the two companies as valid. I also think of 5 Star as an evolving enterprise, where JL is far more established. More importantly I don’t think 5 star is out to compete with that market per se.

 

[red devil]

http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/cgi-bin/prd-eng.cgi?itemno=95-02-4824&ck=

Thanks!! Going ot order a few for future projects

 

[jonbuilder]

I’ve often wondered how JL prices their stuff. My jacket was based off an existing pattern and at the time cost about $300 more than an Aero. With no change off “stock” other than sleeve and body length...and it cost me $500 more than the same jacket, made one year prior, in the same hide.

Maybe Alan will chime in, your experience does not sound like he Johnson leather I have known

 

[El Marro]

I haven’t found my Goldilocks price range where everything meets exactly just right, but I know it’s not super cheap and it ain’t super expensive.

I think Vanson Leathers hits that spot for me pretty well, but of course the search continues.

 

[ton312]

Maybe Alan will chime in, your experience does not sound like he Johnson leather I have known

I didn’t push back after receiving my jacket. While it was not what I envisioned it was still very nice. So I just let it be. It was also four years ago and I’ve been through probably 100 jackets since. I’m not mad and if you ask if I would order from JL again? I absolutely would.

 

[dannyk]

I think Vanson Leathers hits that spot for me pretty well, but of course the search continues.

I think you’re right. I’ve only had two Vanson’s. Only one was new. The older 90s or early 2000s Vanson I love and it’s perfect for what I got it for. The new one I just sold. The issue wasn’t the construction or leather just turned out I didn’t like it. I bought in new in 2016 and got it during non/jacket season. So I tried it on, it fit and let sit for a few month. Once I got into it, I realized I just didn’t like the style at all, but it was way past the return/exchange period. I’m actually eyeing a unique Vanson right now and I’m just about ready to pull the trigger. It’s the measurements that I’m iffy on. But the materiel and constructing per its price are 100% what i would expect and want. If I get it and the measurements work out it will absolutely be the perfect jacket for the price. I think you’re dead on with them. Maybe some of their collabs are a different story...some seem perfect, some a bit high for Vanson prices. But for the most part I think that’s bang on actually.