Fit /measurement question

[Bunyip]

Hi guys,
I'm looking at a really nice used jacket online. The chest measurement looks ok, the question I have is with the shoulder width. It seems a touch small. I'm wondering if the chest and length seem ok, do the shoulders generally fit? The jacket is a modern aero, and not a vintage fit. It has no action back.I've found Aero sizing to be all over the shop, and the size tag not really too relevant.
I don't have abnormally large shoulders or anything. I would really like to buy this jacket, but don't want another online fail with international postage at stake.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have learned that shoulders matter. Bought a jacket recently that was one inch narrower than usual in the shoulders. Everything else was perfect, even a touch loose. It didn't fit. Couldn't lift my arms or carry things without the whole jacket distorting.

 

[Monitor]

Heh, I on the other hand discovered that for me personally, shoulder width don't matter much, as long as the jacket sits right on my shoulders - something that depends entirely on the maker.

Sure, wider shoulders do make the jacket more comfortable, but... I can wear size numbers from 38 to 42 (which is supposed to be my size) and I've had jackets with shoulders 18 - 19 inches wide that were uncomfortable as hell because the jacket didn't sit right. Shoulders were too far behind. So basically, the only difference I've noticed when wearing a well made jackets with narrower shoulders is that the sleeves will get pulled up a bit. That's it.

Long time ago, when I was still taking shoulder measurement into consideration, I've stumbled upon this text from Stu of The Lost Worlds regarding the matter which, after going thru dozens of jackets, I now find to be completely true:

"We are often asked to provide "shoulder measurement." In genuine tailoring no such measurement exists as there is no seam:seam length to measure. Further every (pseudo) "shoulder measurement" would differ according to armhole and sleeve configuration, which differs in every style and every mfg. Others, however, will provide this "length." We will not, as it has nothing to do with correct fit, misleads more than leads, and we're sticklers for correctness."

Taken from The Lost Worlds FAQ.

For what's it worth, I have yet to find Aero that's bad in the shoulders. Or Vanson. But that's me.

 

[handymike]

Interesting, I find that it matters a lot. I'm 17.5" across the shoulders and even an 18" width can hang oddly on me (even though it might be a tad more comfortable) but it depends on the jacket I guess. Aero tend to make wider shoulders I've noticed (18"-19") on their 38 sized jackets

 

[Doctor Damage]

That's a good comment from Lost Worlds, posted by Monitor. Looking at my spreadsheet, I've got jackets ranging from 18.5" to 21" shoulders and most fit more or less the same. So there's a million factors involved, not just a single measurement. Ultimately the O.P. will probably have to roll the dice, although I realize shipping stuff (and from) Australia must be insanely expensive.

 

[armscye]

As a collector of vintage jackets, some observations on shoulders:

1. Many 70s-80s jackets put the shoulder seam halfway down the bicep, so seam-to-seam measurements are often of limited value. If it feels comfortable, doesn't fall off the shoulder, and does not restrict movement, it probably fits, regardless of the tape measure.

2. Many jackets incorporate shoulder padding in the form of crescent shaped wads of felt. These can distort fit, so if the jacket feels odd, check for pads. They can be removed by opening a few inches of the lining, reaching up, and pulling the padding out of the hole, then snipping the retaining stitches. This often lengthens the sleeves by an inch or so as well.

3. Shoulder sizing varies wildly on 80s-era oversize jackets. I have a Cooper "Telegraph" knockabout jacket that is marked 40, but fits my 46 inch frame well. Try before you buy wherever possible (yes, i know this leaves eBayers in a pickle).

4. An action or bi-swing back will also affect fit-- the jacket may have narrow shoulders, but provide comfort because the bi-swing pleats are providing extra freedom. Again, a try-on is the key.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I should have been more precise. I can wear jackets with shoulders from 19 inch to 21 inches and they look fine- 20 inches is my preferred measurement. But if the shoulders are less than 19 inches, I'm screwed. So my take is you can be quite flexible about shoulders but if they are too narrow, you're sunk.

 

[Fanch]

Some of my happiest and worst moments have been the first few minutes after receiving a package I "won" on ebay.

 

[handymike]

I'm with you there Fanch!

 

[ProteinNerd]

How sure are you he has given you the correct measurements?

 

[Peacoat]

How sure are you he has given you the correct measurements?

And how sure are you where his measuring points are? I feel shoulder measurements are of limited utility, given the variables involved.

 

[morrison2951]

I've given up on fleabay for the most part as our Classifieds section with the very knowledgeable FL's is so much more reliable!

 

[Bunyip]

G'day guys, thanks for the input. The Lost Worlds bit made sense, and it's why I always find the shoulder measurement a murky one. I also have had some death and glory moments with the eBay packages, from NWOT that had stains and crap in the pockets to wildly inaccurate measurements to absolute steals that have made me happy...the jacket is a cracker, and is one I've been contemplating buying new, so if I can swing it.....thanks so much for the input...will keep you posted..cheers

 

[Fanch]

If you hate the way the jacket fits, you can always sell it, but what a pain ...

 

[Monitor]

I'm pretty much done with eBay. Everything is vintage all of the sudden, prices of old MC jackets, most of which are falling apart, have skyrocketed (there are a few jackets right now for $4000 +) and of course NW(O)T jackets with sleeves so creased colour has started to show through. Selling it is always an option but it's a pain and I usually can't get back more than half of what I've paid for it. I much rather pay for a brand new jacket, made for me... Though I wasn't really lucky with these, either... :/

Bunyip, I wish you luck with your purchase! Pictures immediately upon receiving the package!

 

[nick123]

^Now you'll embark on a short-lived "maybe non-leather outwerwear is less of a hassle; I'll try that/can I find life's fulfillment in a good pair of boots?" phase, only to go back to shopping for leather in a day's time.

 

[handymike]

Boots are the next logical step.
We are so lucky that so many loungers have gone that way before us. The boot threads here are fantastic....(and once you know your sizing, boots are a lot less disappointing from the Bay).

 

[Monitor]

Hah, boots are the worst! I mean, I love boots and I've actually started my obsession with outerwear looking for a good pair of leather boots, but buying them online is something I don't plan on ever getting into. Sizing is all over the place. Worst part, can't find a pair of decent Engineers in Europe, no matter what... Can forget about Chipeewa, Wesco etc.