Fit advice for new member

[Damon141]

Yeah I might just put the Himel on EBay rather than Trying and possibly failing at alterations. You rarely see hem measurements. I was looking for the RMC hem measurements and couldn’t find them, they seem pretty much straight down.

I wear my jacket open I’m in Florida after all and it rarely gets cold, so to be a snug fit I need 23” p2p with your recommendation of a 20” hem or even 21”. But this is 23” so that’s a lot of extra inches and would look good on a guy with a wider mid section

 

[JMax]

Like @AbbaDatDeHat said— Cals, Star Gloves can have sharp drops from chest to waist. Heck, lots of high end vintage jackets will have the measurements you seek.

Custom? JL would be my go-to. Also- A bunch of their jackets already have sharp taper, like the jackets they made for Leatherman.

 

[Marc mndt]

You could try to look for a 50s / 60s Harley Davidson Sportster 'one pocket' size 44.

It comes with generous upper sleeves to accommodate those guns.

 

[Damon141]

I just looked at the cal site and it’s definitely a lower price option but it shows, the look homemade. This Himel Kensington has some of the best stitching I’ve seen from him because some of them are pretty bad for a $2,700 jacket. I am looking for a classic cafe racer with that immaculate stitching you see on Japanese jackets. I’m not sure why us Americans can’t duplicate that considering every brand I’ve seen out of Japan near perfect stitching with little to no puckering.

 

[Damon141]

That’s another perfect fit Marc mndt

 

[Marc mndt]

I am looking for a classic cafe racer with that immaculate stitching you see on Japanese jackets.

In that case, check out the Field Leathers Route 66

 

[Damon141]

You have my attention, those fit pictures on the models look amazing. It said they are open to design mods, I wonder if they would get rid of the angled chest pockets in favor of straight

 

[Marc mndt]

You have my attention, those fit pictures on the models look amazing. It said they are open to design mods, I wonder if they would get rid of the angled chest pockets in favor of straight

No doubt they will. They're very much open to customization. There's only one con: 12 months lead time.

 

[ton312]

I think an Aero CR may be your best bet. We are similar in builds and my aero CR fit very well with a fairly steep drop from chest to waist. I don’t think you’ll have much luck with. Buco j-100 repro. They are simply too tubular in the body. Crappy pic but here was my Aero:

These do pop up with some degree of regularity on eBay or around here as well, if you don’t want to go full boat on the first attempt.

 

[Damon141]

I actually was considering aero then got caught bug where you see one item on a certain budget then keep creeping higher and higher. That actually a really good fit on the CR, most look like they don’t fit people well. But that one is excellent. I will look out for one or even consider new, I also like the field leather Route 66.

 

[Damon141]

I actually just received a response from Johnson leather saying he could bring in the waist for a reasonable price. When my wife wakes up I’m going to have her take better pictures because selfies just don’t show the detail with a phone raised in one hand.

When I post GOOD pictures of all angles I would appreciate all opinions on if I should try to alter or not because you know there is no going back.

 

[MrProper]

I have the same problem. Off the rack leather jackets do not fit me.
I have 23.5" p2p and 19" hem and that with more length.
That's why all jackets are customized.
And that's exactly what I would recommend.
Here is a selection of customized jackets.
Field Leathers (maybe for sale)

Fivestar

Aero

 

[Damon141]

All those jackets fit great, especially the back where so many jackets suffer, those bring out the v taper of your physique which tbh I would notice immediately if a saw you walking the mall grocery store etc. I used to be in love with the real McCoy j100 but you would never get that v taper. They look great on a slimmer built guy though

 

[Rugby]

Hi everyone I just wanted to introduce myself to the forums and simultaneously ask advice on the fit of a jacket. This site has been a wealth of knowledge regarding leather jackets and I appreciate everyone that has come together and use their time to offer their wisdom.

So I had little knowledge of leather jackets before this site and have only purchased mainstream mall jackets and a Schott which at the time I thought was the best ever after mall quality jackets.

Recently picked up a Himel Bros Kensington and wanted to ask opinions on the fit. Bear with me I took these myself but tomorrow I will try to get better pictures taken by my wife.

Im a tough fit because I work out quite a bit and my weight can vary depending on diet and life getting in the way of the gym. The problem is I have a 45”-47” chest and never go beyond a 32”-33” waist which makes jackets seem too tight around the chest or too loose around the midsection.

I’m going to post pictures of the Himel and then the Schott which is their 654vn

I have the same problem. I am about 25.5 p2p on the chest 22-23 inch on the shoulders and about 36-37 in the waist. I work out and on top of that I am 6'5". I have found out that only custom made jackets fit me the way I would like them to. They are quite more expensive than OTR or second hand, but they will last you all your life and your children's life.

 

[JMax]

I have the same problem. I am about 25.5 p2p on the chest 22-23 inch on the shoulders and about 36-37 in the waist. I work out and on top of that I am 6'5". I have found out that only custom made jackets fit me the way I would like them to. They are quite more expensive than OTR or second hand, but they will last you all your life and your children's life.

Sweet christ rugby… the epitome of a TFL hulkster. Love it. You can be my back up anytime. Keep me outta trouble. Or help me start it, whatever.

 

[Jumper]

I'd trade every jacket I have for this kind of fit problem.

 

[Damon141]

So this is a better idea of the extra around the waist hem. This is with me squeezing pretty tight.

 

[AerGuitar]

So this is a better idea of the extra around the waist hem. This is with me squeezing pretty tight.

I don’t think that jacket looks bad on you at all, but I certainly agree with those who say that your build is more suited for a tapered CR cut. I have a “J100 body” and I cannot do a CR cut that fits on the snug side in the upper body if I want any hope of getting the jacket zipped over my waist. I’d also be nervous to have such a nice jacket altered, although I’m sure someone like JL could pull it off. As far as sizing down in the same J100 style to better fit your abdomen, you are going to start feeling VERY cramped in the upper body with the inherent narrow sleeves and shoulders of that cut. I’m surprised that any J100 would accept those biceps!

 

[Damon141]

So an update, please help anyone with alteration experience.

I have been in contact with Johnson leathers which has been really friendly and seems pretty confident on being able to do the taper. I am waiting on more correspondence from him but even without those last pictures he knew right off the first set of pictures how much I would need to take off.

My biggest fear is that it will not look natural. I do wish the arms were a little tighter and maybe shorter but then again it is not broken in and from what I understand about Shinki is that sleeves will shorten by creasing, and if the arms were any tighter I might not be able to move or if they get a little bigger I wouldn’t be able to squeeze into them.

I do have it for sale but I’m impatient and don’t want to sit on it for a year waiting for it to sell but I’m not going to sell it for nothing either to some cheapskate.

So anyone with alteration experience please chime in.

 

[ton312]

So an update, please help anyone with alteration experience.

I have been in contact with Johnson leathers which has been really friendly and seems pretty confident on being able to do the taper. I am waiting on more correspondence from him but even without those last pictures he knew right off the first set of pictures how much I would need to take off.

My biggest fear is that it will not look natural. I do wish the arms were a little tighter and maybe shorter but then again it is not broken in and from what I understand about Shinki is that sleeves will shorten by creasing, and if the arms were any tighter I might not be able to move or if they get a little bigger I wouldn’t be able to squeeze into them.

I do have it for sale but I’m impatient and don’t want to sit on it for a year waiting for it to sell but I’m not going to sell it for nothing either to some cheapskate.

So anyone with alteration experience please chime in.

I’ve successfully and unsuccessfully altered a number of jackets. Here’s my thoughts on the matter with your jacket.
Don’t do it.
It’s a valuable piece. It will sell. Use those funds to start over. If the alteration does not go as planned, the jacket will be much harder if not impossible to sell or move along. This is a standard size 44”? That’s a popular size, right in the meaty part of the size range so I suspect you’ll have plenty of interest.
I’m certainly not saying JL wouldn’t do a great job. I’m sure they could. But what if it still doesn’t work the way you intended or hoped for?