Fit advice - Fine Creek Leon

[Despot]

Hey TFL…

I’m looking for some long distance fur advice (as I’ll likely have to order online as there are no stockists of Fine Creek here in Ireland)…

I recently picked up a Flat Head Delraiser D pocket cross zip together with a Vanson C2RN (aka renegade). I’m starting to think the Vanson style (two slash zipper pockets) works for me better than the D pocket style of the Delraiser. That’s got me thinking about maybe skipping past all the usual trying other jackets on as a compromise and go straight to the end stage - which seems to me to be the cleaner lines of the Fine Creek Leon Custom (no belt or epaulettes).

There seems to be some opinions that the Leon fits small. I’m a true 44 inch these days - the Vanson fits a little roomy, while the Delraiser fits snug (but still fits - just!).

What would you kind folks advise for sizing in the Leon? Some suggestions to size up to 46 - but I’d like this jacket to fit slim.

 

[Roy Hobbs]

PM'd you.

 

[Damon141]

Depends on your height. You can see self edges model is 6’2” wearing a 42 and rivet & hides model is 6’1.5” also in a 42.
The sleeves look a bit short on both but body length is where you would want to be but the body length jumps up to 27.5” on the 1.3mm self edge size 46 and 28.5” body length on the rivet & hide 2mm size 46.

That’s a pretty long jacket and these are tall guys in a 42, I guess they are aiming at someone 6’5” or so for their size 46. Then the sleeves only go up to 26.5” on both.
Sizing is all over the place some of these brands.

 

[Despot]

Yeah … that was my worry (re: length). The Vanson that I love hits my belt line perfectly at 26.5 inches - it’s ideal.

For reference in 5’10, but long in the torso … my inside leg is 31 inches so the length can be tricky without a jacket that’s perfect for my body length making me look odd as my legs are shorter than they should be to be in proportion (a typical bandy-legged Irishman as my fiancé says!). 26-27 length works for me in most jackets if I want it to sit at or just under my jeans waistline.

 

[BloodEagle]

If you’re a 44 then definitely size up for a Fine Creek Leon, I am 44 and had one in sz44 and it was a bit snug to be honest - they are cut to fit slim, so a 46 would still have that look. I know it’s difficult but my advice would to be see and handle a Fine Creek Leon in the flesh before splashing the cash - off the rack the look literally nothing like the cool pictures you have seen of them and feel very unleatherlike honestly - with time that does go, but it is a shock when you unwrap a new one.

 

[Damon141]

That’s why people need to think twice about these Japanese jackets, overall they have the neatest construction and to me most of the best designs come from there. But sizing is way off. Tiny chest, broad shoulders, and long bodies.
If you work out forget about it, my chest has been over 45” since high school and I’m just a hair under 5’10” so I’ve had no luck finding one that fits.

If you are 5’9” with under a 40” chest there are options or around 6’ with a 42 or 44” chest there are options but it’s like hitting the lottery if you fit into one.

 

[Aloysius]

I really would not recommend the Fine Creek jacket, especially if you’re looking for something minimalist. (Also odd, in my book anyway, to describe it as the ‘end stage’ because there’s nothing superlative about it.)

It’s not really a no-belt, no-epaulettes jacket– it’s a jacket with cut-off belt and epaulettes, which just look bad, and if that’s what you’re after you could buy any three pocket cross zip and cut off the epaulettes and belt yourself. It certainly can’t look worse than the Leon Custom.

 

[Damon141]

Before you drop that kind of cash on an off the rack I would double abs triple check the measurements on this model and there are many similar toned down cross zips out of Japan you could compare to. I get it, I have a strong desire for some Japanese models like the Freewheelers Mulholland and the Toys McCoys Beck 666 but those are more one of a kind But this Leon is not really unique.

If you can’t find anything that measures up then you can do what I will do from this point forward and go custom.
Johnson Leather probably has something similar for cheaper and Lost Worlds J27 looks somewhat similar.
You are close to Himel Bros pricing and could purchase his Nipsing which in my humble opinion blows that Fine Creek out of the water and it will be made to exactly your body.

You will wait a bit for custom but it’s the middle of May anyway.

 

[Despot]

I really would not recommend the Fine Creek jacket, especially if you’re looking for something minimalist. (Also odd, in my book anyway, to describe it as the ‘end stage’ because there’s nothing superlative about it.)

It’s not really a no-belt, no-epaulettes jacket– it’s a jacket with cut-off belt and epaulettes, which just look bad, and if that’s what you’re after you could buy any three pocket cross zip and cut off the epaulettes and belt yourself. It certainly can’t look worse than the Leon Custom.

Yeah - I’ve seen the cut off versions (not a fan) - but I believe the rivet and hide 2mm custom also comes with no belt/epaulettes rather than cut offs (The Shop in Vancouver also carry a few that come without rather than cut).

I guess my ideal end state is my Vanson cut a little more trim in nice leather (ideally shinki) … but that’s not so easy to find.

I’m considering going the custom route to get something made - but again there are limited options there too.

But thanks for the advice

 

[SilverKast]

I've thought of this coat, but without trying it on first there's no way I want to pay the money. I'll be in NYC next month and hope to hit up a few places and see what I can try on from various brands in this sort of style. I'm hoping to stop by Schott, Self-Edge, Standard & Strange and anywhere else anyone might recommend?

For reference I'm 6' and my chest measures at 46. I have a long upper torso and arms so I have a lot of trouble with the Japanese brands as none of them fit me very well. I love the looks in pictures, but whenever I try something on it's nothing like the pictures haha.

 

[JMax]

See if you can send whatever hide you want to Vanson. It’s been done.

Or send the Vanson jacket to JL with whatever hide you want it in.