First view of rare McGregor/David D Doniger AN-J-3 (size 40)

[Dr H]

Dear Loungers

With apologies for the poor images (screen grabs converted to JPG), this is the jacket that Andrew Swatland kindly (and unselfishly) highlighted on the VLJF last week.

It's not in the country yet and a fuller review will follow once I've had a chance to look at it more closely and take some better images (on this occasion I won't be wearing it as I'd need to have a couple of ribs removed first - it's a generous 40/small 42 if the dimensions are correct).

I'll preface this with saying that I'm a novice with A-2s, know little about naval jackets and much less about the AN-J-3. Others with a deeper knowledge and more experience please feel free to comment, but this is the short-lived attempt to address the needs of both services (army and navy) - as you can see it has some elements of both A-2 and later naval jackets. It also has the reputation as being slightly harder to find in good condition with a label than hens' teeth.

Consequently, I don't know whether this is a jacket that was produced in mil. spec., not issued and badged McGregor Sportswear, a commercial version of a mil. spec. jacket that David D. Doniger produced in e.g. goatskin for the military... in fact I just don't know much... Apparently, it has been said that the military jackets were produced in the dozens (not sure how true this is), but they are rare survivors. What can be said with confidence is that it's a David D Doniger jacket (one of the most well respected of the jacket manufacturers, incorporating high end tailoring). However, unlike the rare McGregor/David D Doniger A-2 (in capeskin) that I posted a little while ago, this one has the label of the commercial arm of the business, McGregor Sportswear.

'Nuff said, images...

Sadly, although this one is already growing on me, it'll be up for sale once I'd had a chance to research it and examine it more closely (just a little too small for me - and my jackets need to work for a living)...

 

[ButteMT61]

Wow, that's a unique jacket Ian! Too bad it doesn't fit you - should be able to sell that quickly. I'd love to find one like that in my size. Nice colors.

 

[Dr H]

Hi Scott
True, but shamelessly bought 'for stock', as it were.
It would be lovely to keep it, but not this time.
A decent GW replica, on the other hand...
PM sent John... ;-)
cheers
Ian

 

[Dr H]

As a follow up the original post, the AN-J-3 arrived and it was a surprise. It's marked as a 40 and the vendor's measurements suggested that it would fit as such, but it's actually a larger 42 and with the bi-swing back it fits more like a 43. The sleeves are perfect for me and the length of the torso is great (slightly longer than an A-2), so the plan has changed and I'll be keeping it.

It's a thick, soft capeskin - no smells, great patina, triple marked Talon (there were some minor tears in the lining, but these have now been repaired. One cuff has been replaced with a period replacement, but I'll search for a better match. I've also fixed a loose button and redarned the cuffs in matching thread. It's not pristine so I don't feel the same weight of responsibility that I did with the McGregor A-2 and I'll use it regularly (I was happy to wear it to the car park in the pouring rain yesterday).

The grain is incredibly subtle and very similar to my former McGregor Sportswear A-2, albeit a little thicker - like the domestic capeskin used in the older GW A-1 (in terms of colour too). For my money it's capeskin, which is another reason for keeping it - my favourite hide, ahead of goat. It was originally pretty glossy and this is still visible in some areas.

The most noticeable feature is the collar - which is very 'Doniger' in form with narrow points. There are three horizontal lines of stitching across the underside of the rear of the collar. It has the same folded hanger loop as the Doniger A-2 and a 'V' shaped throat flap.

It's a flattering cut with a roomy but neat torso with a narrow half belt and wide shoulders/arm holes. The arm profile is very similar to a Doniger A-2. The closure is with a triple-marked Talon on a tan tape and a wide storm flap to the rear (3/4 height), snapped map pocket towards the inside of the lining.

The pockets are wide with a pen slot in the left one, pale brown horn buttons on the pockets and the underside of the collar.

The waistband is woven cotton (not very elasticated) and like the McGregor A-2 has a two-tone weave (this time dark brown and red).

The sleeves are rotated and inset with underarm expansion (each with three underarm grommets). I've not really seen many naval jackets in detail - it's a fiendishly complex construction - must have taken ages... Very, very comfortable in use - no riding up when driving and easy to fold arms.

I love Doniger jackets - they just drip quality. Here, posed by the invisible man in a pair of house slippers (great combo)...

One happy camper...

 

[feltfan]

That's a nice jacket. Quality in every detail. I like those knits, too.

Seems like a very thick capeskin? When is lamb skin or sheep not capeskin? Congrats on the fit.

 

[too much coffee]

Very sweet jacket Ian; super character and a great fit. Terrific score on an extremely difficult to find jacket.

Regards,
coffee

 

[Dr H]

That's a nice jacket. Quality in every detail. I like those knits, too.

Seems like a very thick capeskin? When is lamb skin or sheep not capeskin? Congrats on the fit.

Thanks Feltfan - the jacket is a surprisingly good fit.

It is very thick (ca. 2 mm?), very soft and very pliable - essentially the same as the domestic capeskin used in John's early A-1. The colour, grain and raised scars are almost identical, albeit with much wear to the surface.

I'd plump for capeskin, but the terminology seems confused as in my understanding it's a generic description (unless sourced from South Africa).

 

[Dr H]

Very sweet jacket Ian; super character and a great fit. Terrific score on an extremely difficult to find jacket.

Regards,
coffee

Thanks Coffee - it's my most comfortable jacket in use - can't beat the design of the bi-swing back. Never thought that I'd say that, as I'm not a fan of naval jackets. It's the mouton collar that puts me off (as a kid in the 70s everybody seemed to have cheap nylon or leather 'G-1s'), but the AN-J-3 is a less common look.

Sadly, a little too casual for workwear - I'm using the ELC A-1 for the day job as it's a little dressier and this one is reserved for everything else.

 

[schitzo]

aye carumba! This is like leather jacket porn