First Aero - Highwayman FQHH

[Fanch]

^^ Only point I'm gonna go contrary @Monitor - the last one. I can wear my Shinki GW way longer than I can my 50's HBD Aero heavy bad boy. True, in winter, the gap closes as leather ain't the insulator people think, but for sho, FQHH stays in the closet longer due to higher temps here...

Same thing too in N Texas.

 

[Monitor]

^^ Only point I'm gonna go contrary @Monitor - the last one. I can wear my Shinki GW way longer than I can my 50's HBD Aero heavy bad boy. True, in winter, the gap closes as leather ain't the insulator people think, but for sho, FQHH stays in the closet longer due to higher temps here...

You are right, Butte. I was speaking more like in general. I agree that FQHH is absolutely does get warmer than lighter hides, especially the black FQHH which even during autumn can become like an oven just from sunlight - but - once it becomes either too hot or too cold for leather in general, that's when the weight, in my experience at least, won't make much of a difference.

Like, on a mildly warm day, I could be wearing either heavy ass FQHH or something super lightweight and even tho the latter would make things more bearable, I could make it thru the day in FQHH just as well. But once it gets too hot for even the lightest of leather jackets, wearing a FQHH won't make things any worse. Same for colder days. At around 60f, sheepskin is the only leather that's gonna do something.

 

[Hammerklavier]

In my experience, especially in winter, the super heavy leather does making significant difference.

 

[Monitor]

In my experience, especially in winter, the super heavy leather does making significant difference.

I'm equally freezing in any if the lining isn't that padded sort. Quilted lining with that foamy stuff inside does a world of difference. Sheepskin is by far the warmest. Tartans are only slightly warmer than just cotton lining but leather in itself... No dice.

 

[zebedee]

Get a lighter hide and wear a sweater, or get a heavy hide and wear a sweater.

 

[Kasper]

Thanks all.


Sorry, I wasn't very clear when I said "as smart as it possibly can", what I meant to say is "as smart as that style can". I would think that's jeans and boots, with a plain casual collar shirt at a stretch. Anything that I have to wear pants, and definitely anything that requires a tie, I don't get opportunity to wear leather anyway.


What I should have said is that the presentation of the jacket will be important. If the style is acceptable for the occasion, I don't want the presentation of the jacket making it unacceptable; so it must present as clean, undamaged and not excessively worn.


Everything wears in time of course, but I feel leather dyed the same colour right through would develop a patina that is not as obvious as the brown coming through the black. If it was a brown leather jacket, I'd be entirely unconcerned about it.


It seems to me people have different experiences with this. Some jackets seems to show early with little wear, other jackets don't seem to show the brown through for years down the track. That's leather I guess, different hides, different batches.


I'm at about 175 cm and medium build, I'll get some proper measurements when I go down to the city next week. I've collected photographs etc from other posts of TFL members wearing the Highwayman style that appear a similar build to me and they look great, but once I get the measurements I'll seek your thoughts on the straight Highwayman style or the Premier Highwayman, which I understand trims the style up a bit.


I do like jackets with more room in them, so I was drawn to the comments that the Highwayman was a boxy style. I don't find a tight style jacket physically comfortable.


I'm in Australia, so I'm looking for the jacket to cover temperatures from say, -2C up. I'd think cotton drill will be fine for the lining and I can layer beneath it if it's required. It really only gets below zero out west in the early morning and it warms when the sun comes up, so being able to remove a layer then works well.


I certainly understand the point of over-thinking things. I've got a bit of OCD, but even I was stunned when I came across TFL! But there is so many good tips, a knowledge base built up over time from all you guys experimenting and documenting the results, it's fantastic.


Anyway, I'll get some measurements and check out the Vicenza and goat hides a bit more. Thanks again for all your help guys.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Here's a couple shots of the Steerhide 30's HB, so you have an idea of grain developing (happend quick on these jackets, compared with say a Vanson or Lost Worlds). Little bit of tea core showing if you look closely.

 

[zebedee]

The first image is black FQHH, the second is seal steerhide and the third is SB's brown seal goathide (in the sun so that you can see the pebbling). Last one is seal steer against brown FQHH.

 

[zebedee]

Out of these, the goat has shown virtually no wear at all and has just become more pliable. It is very different to the other hides (the steer, particularly, is more rubbery and shows relatively little 'scuff' wear but lots of wrinkling) and is mid-weight. The black FQHH is a great hide, but did show the brown base coat within a month (I like it and hope to bash it up more; it's certainly better than a fade to grey). If I were to get another Highwayman which I wanted to retain colour for as long as possible I'd choose seal or black goat as the hide is abrasion-resistant and doesn't really change. Not everyone likes the pebbling, though.

 

[Edward]

But out of the new Aero I'm looking for a jacket that's going to be the more mature style that I need and the Perfecto doesn't have, and a jacket that's going to be able to transition from very casual to as smart as it possibly can. I think the Highwayman style can do that (your thoughts?) but I'm concerned about the colour loss in the CXL hides that Zebedee mentioned.

I've not owned a black fqhh from Aero, so can't comment on the colour loss, but as to the styles....

I've worn all my leathers barring the obvious MC styles with collar and tie (though even they were pictured that way back in the 40s in sales ads, nowadays when you've among "non-vintage people" it can give off a vibe of trying too hard to stand out, which may matter if you're in a work environment). For my money, a halfbelt style (even the cros-over Bootlegger) works a bit better than a HWM's boxier fit - I think the latter definitely works better as a casual jacket. That said, I have worn it with collar and tie, with a waistcoat or sleeveless sweater, and it looked fine. Doesn't take to being worn with a fedora so well, imo - but looks great with a good tweed cap.

 

[Fonzie]

I certainly understand the point of over-thinking things. I've got a bit of OCD,

Then you'll be right at home around here, plenty of this going around...

 

[Peacoat]

I agree with Butte about interior pockets not being a problem. Could never have a jacket with no interior pockets.

I have about 15 leather jackets, all with inside pockets, and never noticed the print through (if any) as detracting from the appearance of the jacket. Quite frankly, I've never even noticed the interior pocket showing through.

 

[Fanch]

Over the years I have more or less come full circle as a number of others on the Lounge. My first leather jacket was a G-1 issued to me while I was a US Naval flight surgeon that was stolen early on, but otherwise my first leather jackets were Aero A-2 and Highwayman acquired during the Mark Moye era, both sized at least 2-3 sizes too big.

I have owned a couple of Aero Highwayman jackets that are now gone as other models seem to better fit my stick like frame, specifically the Aero 1930's slim fit patterns and Cafe Racer (Sheene), the latter with 2" added to the circumference of the waist. I also found the Himel / Goodwear Ventura also works well for my frame.

What I am trying to illustrate is not so much works best for me but to say this whole thing can be an adventure, and the op is just starting the long road to discovery. So IMHO it is all about determining which patterns best fit one's anatomy and what one's preference(s) might be. In other words, total confusion for most starting out.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Still confusion for me too!! Growing up in the Midwest United States, we were always taught (in the 80's) to allow for extra layers. And that cold is your worst enemy. I agree this is true if backpacking in the wilderness, on a 15 day pack trip, however I would be wearing substantially different clothing in those circumstances as well. I have had a similar journey as Fanch, and it's still evolving as we go.

 

[zebedee]

OK- don't wear a leather jacket with business attire. You will look the knob* unless you've chucked it on for after work drinks. For smart casual, casual-casual and Bukowski-casual, you're good to go with a Highwayman in black-whatever hide.

*Hasn't stopped me on occasion. More often than I like to admit.

 

[SJC]

Good points to all of these, however my preferences are FQHH or CXL Steerhide and simple cotton drill lining. That cotton drill is rather durable, wear around the bottom of the jacket should not be an issue with it.

Your jacket is incredible . Is the recital color called black cherry? Thanks bud

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Thank you, I presume if asking about Cherry that you are asking about the Bootlegger on my back in avitar? In fact it's stated to be "brown" however appears a lot closer to Cherry to me as well. Cordovan at least...

 

[Kasper]

Thanks again for your advice all, particularly the photos. There's some nice jackets alright.

OK- don't wear a leather jacket with business attire. You will look the knob* unless you've chucked it on for after work drinks. For smart casual, casual-casual and Bukowski-casual, you're good to go with a Highwayman in black-whatever hide.

*Hasn't stopped me on occasion. More often than I like to admit.

Yeah, I hear you. I charted the "Limits of the Perfecto and Beyond" in the early 90's and historical photos suggest I had quite a poor perception of where those limits were, even for the 90's. These days it's more the case that on the very odd occasion if I'm in town and decide on the spur of the moment it's time for dinner, I want the jacket to make the move from the Public Bar to the Dining Room with me! It's disappointing eating with my jacket stuffed under the table because the mouth breathers at the hotel don't know what a patina is

 

[zebedee]

They'd let you get away with a lambskin blazer. But then it's time to find new bars and restaurants...