First Aero - Highwayman FQHH

[Kasper]

Hi everyone, I'm looking into my first Aero jacket and would appreciate any comments and advice. I've read through a lot of previous posts on the Aero jackets to get an idea of what I'm after, but I'd be grateful for any advice to consider before I commit to an order!


So far I've come to the following:


Highwayman

Black FQHH

Nickel hardware

Zipper in an 8 if possible

Black cotton drill lining

3" leather strip on the inside bottom of the jacket to protect the lining against wear




I'm still undecided on a couple of points, if you guys can help me out?


I've seen some comments about "printing" from internal pockets, that the shape of the pockets may become imposed on the outer surface of the jacket over time. Is this something I should consider with FQHH? I've had a heavy steer hide jacket for about twenty years and it was never an issue that that; I thought the FQHH may be heavy enough that it resists this sort of thing?


I've never had a jacket with the vertical internal pockets before; does the pocket bag descend from the pocket opening or does it continue to proceed horizontally away from the pocket opening? If the latter, is there risk of items in the pocket ever falling out? What are your thoughts on snap closures of the internal pockets?


Also, I've seen posts to the effect Thurston Brothers will issue a fit jacket if requested. Do Aero offer such as well?


Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Sloan1874]

Aero generally recommends against internal pockets because of shine through. I've only got one jacket with them and this happened on one side, though that was due to seat belt rubbing at it during a prang in my car. That said, it's not really noticeable in the overall look of the patina that the jacket has developed. Since then, I've never had internal pockets added to any jacket and I've never really missed them but some people can't live without them.
As to your question about the construction, the pocket bag begins at the top and expands. They tend to be pretty deep and narrow, so I've all but stopped doing mine up to avoid developing any snap shine through, so you might want to think about having no closure on them.

 

[Fanch]

Can't think of anything to add to what @Sloan1874 just said.

 

[seres]

The 3" leather strip on the inside bottom of the jacket to protect the lining against wear will also have a tendency to show through to the outside.

 

[Kasper]

Ah, OK then; I might give both the pockets and the strip a miss. Pockets would be nice, but not essential, and I'd rather lining wear than the strip printing through. Thanks for that.

 

[Sloan1874]

Aero no longer do the inside strip of leather. That was an old regime indulgence which disappeared almost five years ago and made relining a jacket tricky. I have a cord strip on one jacket I bought in 2012 but tbh I don't think that's even necessary. I also prefer the cleaner look of the lining without any bits cut-out.

 

[jacketjunkie]

If you want inside pockets, I'd ask for shirt style pockets sewn onto the lining in the lining fabric if possible. These pockets in the leather facing show through because of the extra leather.

 

[zebedee]

I'd consider the mid-weight hides, too- I ordered my first Aeros in FQHH; once I had one in mid-weight I wished I'd chosen it for the others- I found it more comfortable, less unwieldy and quicker to break in. Ken did once suggest the lightest FQHH for a Stockman- it was a good choice as well.

 

[Fanch]

I am a big advocate of Aero's Vicenza which IMHO is more than worth the extra charge. Vicenza looks and feels great, and has a better drape than anything else with the exception of goatskin.

 

[zebedee]

Black FQHH fades to brown base colour fairly quickly (at least it did with mine within a month around buttonholes and at areas of contact). I liked it, some folks wouldn't. Black goatskin, however, would be lighter, tough as nails and take ages- ages- to fade...

 

[AeroFan_07]

Good points to all of these, however my preferences are FQHH or CXL Steerhide and simple cotton drill lining. That cotton drill is rather durable, wear around the bottom of the jacket should not be an issue with it.

 

[zebedee]

I'd go with the FQHH for its hand, but there's not all that much in it. I found that nickel faded quickly and much prefer the vintage brass- again, its relatively minor. Cotton drill is a good, hard-wearing option.

 

[Kasper]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your comments tremendously.


I really like the black CXL FQHH. I like the waxy look the finish has; I like the way it creases up and then holds the creases on the sleeves, and I like a heavier, thicker hide; really the thicker the better. I've got a steer hide Perfecto style that I've had for about 20 years, which is thicker and heavier than anything else I've come across and that's perfect (HA!).


But out of the new Aero I'm looking for a jacket that's going to be the more mature style that I need and the Perfecto doesn't have, and a jacket that's going to be able to transition from very casual to as smart as it possibly can. I think the Highwayman style can do that (your thoughts?) but I'm concerned about the colour loss in the CXL hides that Zebedee mentioned.


I hadn't seen the issue of the brown base colour coming through before, but I've now read through what appears the fairly comprehensive overview of 2013 and it does have me concerned - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/horween-chromexel-steer-not-dyed-all-the-way-through.74829/


I note of course the thread refers to the CXL Steer, but my understanding is the CXL FQHH has similar properties?


I see the photographs of the patina the CXL Steer jackets in that thread have with the base brown coming through and I can certainly see the attraction in that, it's a beautiful patina but I don't think it's for me because I think the jacket is then only going to be able to respond to half the environments I need it to.


I don't suppose I've overlooked that Aero offers a CXL FQHH dyed black all the way through by chance?


But the black Vicenza is black all the way through right? - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...a-hh-break-in-patina-fade.88956/#post-2186415


Is the Vicenza a much lighter hide than the FQHH? I see posts to the effect it's very durable and resistant to marking.


Ha! The black CXL FQHH was the aspect of the jacket I was most sure of, now I'm scratching my head.

 

[zebedee]

You could look at seal brown steer- some of it is very close to black. Thick hides have a difficulty looking formal (in my opinion). As there's a lot of bulk to them, there's a lot of 'detail' on display- knocks, variations, etc.- and Aero hides are dyed to age quickly. Seal brown 'fades' to a very dark base of grey/brown and its scuffs are not noticeable. If I wanted a jacket to be unchanging and have little to no fading, I'd be looking at goat hide (which Aero do in seal, black and russet).

A Highwayman is a boxy, chunky beastie. It would be hard to imagine it as smart-casual, because it 'becomes' everything you're wearing to an onlooker. It's also a zip jacket and yells 'Bike!' to the uninitiated (and the initiated). If I was going for really versatile, I'd go with a Mulligan, gun pocket with no fastener on the right side (less 'show') no flaps on any of the pockets (so like a Work Coat- the side pockets could be non-patch, just horizontal slash) and probably the black goat in mid-weight. It's button-up, but you could probably wear it with a collared casual shirt (possibly a tie, too).

 

[handymike]

What is your body shape?
The Highwayman is a classic, but pretty boxy.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Kasper, given what you are mentioning here, I would encourage you to look at the Aero Scheene or a Zip-sleeve Highwayman, it'll be a little more "transitional" and a little more fitted than a standard Highwayman. As others have indicated, the highwayman is rather boxy.

I'll download photos of my 30's Half-Belt in CXL Heavy Steer this evening and put there here. While it's black,I do not really see Tea Core showing through and it's been used quite a bit over 3 years. However it has loads of grain and texture showing through at this point. It's a great "daily driver" with a black cotton drill lining. I wish a zip-sleeve would have been offered on it, it's perfect otherwise for my needs.

 

[ButteMT61]

I think you've already reached the point of over-thinking this. We've all been there - it's not a knock, but rather a warning.
If you get to worrying about things too much, the jacket you inevitably get will disappoint. Most of us have done it, some more than once.
Some point from me only (none new, just mine)
1) HWM is a relatively boxy jacket. My experience with past Aeros - before the new lineup was most of them were too boxy of a cut for me being taller and on occasion, fit.
2) Pockets. I would probably never own any jacket without inner pocket(s). Esp for travel, they're a must for me.
3) The show-through of point #2 above in no way detracts from the look over time - again, my opinion. It's part of the charm of the jacket and shows character...
4) Some years back, this place went into hysteria over "heavier is better" and FQHH only - steer, et al suck. As we've come to learn by trial, error, cost and time, it's simply false on all counts. In fact, I'd wager that unless you live in a colder climate, you'll regret having a heavy jacket as your only jacket - unless it's for riding a motorcycle...
5) #8 zip. Good call. To me, the #5 seen on many of the jackets made is too small. I have some #8 and #10 and depending on the jacket, those two I like a lot. #5 I don't mind if I"m not going to be zipping it up a lot or it is a cold-weather piece. But don't put a #10 on a lightweight jacket, esp if you're a smaller guy as it will look ridiculous.

Finally, get the big bits right and don't get caught up in it. Chances are, the first one you get won't be your best one nor your last one. Your tastes change, your body changes, your needs change. And if you come in here, you're just doomed to buy more no matter what you think. Good luck, it's a fun journey!

 

[handymike]

Sage words, Butte.

 

[Monitor]

Hi, Kasper.

I wish that stuff about the shape of the pocket appearing on the jacket was never brought up... Get not one but TWO pockets! Please! With snaps or better yet, zippers for security because what the hell, you will need pockets. Especially on a heavy, utility leather jacket like the Highwayman! By the time your jacket gets there, well, you might as well just congratulate yourself on a job well done because you've been wearing your jacket the way it's been meant to be worn.

Besides, HWM isn't a slim fitting jacket. I guess on a really skintight leather jacket, an inside pocket might emboss on the outside but I seriously doubt it'll happen on a HWM.

The bags on the vertically placed inside pockets descend from the opening and there's plenty of room inside but I personally don't like them much. I'm always paranoid that my wallet got stuck near the opening and that it will fall out. Stupid, I know but...

As for the leather, CXL FQHH for life. Leather thickness does next to nothing for either warmth or cold and heavier leather can take more punishment so... Yeah.

 

[ButteMT61]

^^ Only point I'm gonna go contrary @Monitor - the last one. I can wear my Shinki GW way longer than I can my 50's HBD Aero heavy bad boy. True, in winter, the gap closes as leather ain't the insulator people think, but for sho, FQHH stays in the closet longer due to higher temps here...