Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

[sweetfights]

From what Stu told me they receive their hides as sides (as pictured below)

This is usually not how tanneries would deal with horse hides, but Stuart is part owner of the tannery that does LW hides so he gets what he wants.
This means that his hides are more expensive per sq/ft and they have more waste than if they started from FQHH but it allows them to pic and chose which part of the hides to pic for specific panels of the jacket.

Not all jackets are made from horse butt, but not all of them are made from FQHH either.
I'm not sure it explains the durability, but it definitely explains the variation of grain LW shows...

And thank you Carlos for the inside information. I had no idea.

This jacket looks like deal to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194586438871?hash=item2d4e416cd7:g:NpUAAOSw2XxhoWd4

This jacket looks like deal to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194586438871?hash=item2d4e416cd7:g:NpUAAOSw2XxhoWd4

WOW Great deal

 

[photo2u]

And thank you Carlos for the inside information. I had no idea.


WOW Great deal

Might be for the right person. 22.5 on the back.

 

[Carlos840]

And thank you Carlos for the inside information. I had no idea.

I was just on the phone with stuart, double checked my information.
He does get the hides delivered in sides, without the legs, but with the butt, shells included.
He didn't seem to think using the shells in jackets was that big a deal, he just said "it's a very tought piece, but it doesn't have much grain so we use it for specific pieces where it makes sens, underside of sleeves, top yokes, things like that."
Apparently the average MC jacket takes around 3 sides, so a horse and a half. It sounds like a lot but he says there is a lot of waste due to marks and defects in the hides.
It takes around 60sq/ft of horse hide to make a MC jacket, but making a sheepskin jacket of similar size only takes 40sq/ft as the sheepskins are much cleaner.

 

[Claybertrand]

I was just on the phone with stuart, double checked my information.
He does get the hides delivered in sides, without the legs, but with the butt, shells included.
He didn't seem to think using the shells in jackets was that big a deal, he just said "it's a very tought piece, but it doesn't have much grain so we use it for specific pieces where it makes sens, underside of sleeves, top yokes, things like that."
Apparently the average MC jacket takes around 3 sides, so a horse and a half. It sounds like a lot but he says there is a lot of waste due to marks and defects in the hides.
It takes around 60sq/ft of horse hide to make a MC jacket, but making a sheepskin jacket of similar size only takes 40sq/ft as the sheepskins are much cleaner.

Damn!!! @Carlos840 you're on a roll with the inside info!!! Interesting and very much appreciated!!
Cheers!!!

 

[Cornelius]

A Lost Worlds 'Downtown' car coat in Black Goat, size 44... starting at $600:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154743334639?hash=item24076be6ef:g:rXsAAOSwUTlhtBwD

 

[tmitchell59]

I was just on the phone with stuart, double checked my information.
He does get the hides delivered in sides, without the legs, but with the butt, shells included.
He didn't seem to think using the shells in jackets was that big a deal, he just said "it's a very tought piece, but it doesn't have much grain so we use it for specific pieces where it makes sens, underside of sleeves, top yokes, things like that."
Apparently the average MC jacket takes around 3 sides, so a horse and a half. It sounds like a lot but he says there is a lot of waste due to marks and defects in the hides.
It takes around 60sq/ft of horse hide to make a MC jacket, but making a sheepskin jacket of similar size only takes 40sq/ft as the sheepskins are much cleaner.

Thanks for sharing, very interesting.

edit: I just bought a jacket that LW should re-produce. Perfect for his work.

 

[AeroFan_07]

This jacket looks like deal to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/194586438871?hash=item2d4e416cd7:g:NpUAAOSw2XxhoWd4

Very nice Johnson at an excellent price. However it's simply too bad this is so short. If it was ~ 25.5" back length below the collar, I would be all over it at that price!

 

[sweetfights]

I was just on the phone with stuart, double checked my information.
He does get the hides delivered in sides, without the legs, but with the butt, shells included.
He didn't seem to think using the shells in jackets was that big a deal, he just said "it's a very tought piece, but it doesn't have much grain so we use it for specific pieces where it makes sens, underside of sleeves, top yokes, things like that."
Apparently the average MC jacket takes around 3 sides, so a horse and a half. It sounds like a lot but he says there is a lot of waste due to marks and defects in the hides.
It takes around 60sq/ft of horse hide to make a MC jacket, but making a sheepskin jacket of similar size only takes 40sq/ft as the sheepskins are much cleaner.

Love this knowledge coming in. Thank you.

 

[Claybertrand]

Very nice Johnson at an excellent price. However it's simply too bad this is so short. If it was ~ 25.5" back length below the collar, I would be all over it at that price!

You said it brother!!!! The dreaded SHORT BACK LENGTH is my number one nemesis...... that and lack of funds

 

[Coriu]

Aero Size 36 FQHH $200 opening bid
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265452776141?hash=item3dce37eacd:g:TOUAAOSw6xNhRipV

 

[handymike]

Here is a beautiful Kehoe in a confirmed size 42...(seller checked the tag in the pocket)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393792380789

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks for sharing, very interesting.

edit: I just bought a jacket that LW should re-produce. Perfect for his work.

Stuart is always open to new ideas and projects, if it's a jacket he likes and it fits within his brand he might do it.
Link?

 

[Coriu]

Here is a beautiful Kehoe in a confirmed size 42...(seller checked the tag in the pocket)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393792380789

If not mistaken, I have seen other Kehoe CR's listed for under $200, which seems very reasonable for a vintage jacket. I posted a brown one in October that went for $90 at auction. Is there a clear reason why do these not command more money?

 

[jonbuilder]

A Lost Worlds 'Downtown' car coat in Black Goat, size 44... starting at $600:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154743334639?hash=item24076be6ef:g:rXsAAOSwUTlhtBwD

with an offer option. If I had not recently purchased a Taubers of a similar pattern I might have bit. For some reason LW goat does not resell as high as LW horse

 

[JMax]

Brent

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-19...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Bahabp100]

Certainly not as Langlitz as seller claims (stitching on belt line wrong). He also claims “ This Motorcycle Jacket was custom made at a small shop in Greenwich Village and purchased around 1988“ which may be plausible - (nylon?) YKK main zip would support that timing (unless it’s a replacement). And small collar design too plus padding, although present on various jackets for many years, was all the rage in the 1980’s. And fairly pristine condition suggests it’s not a super old jacket…

There are many cal experts here (I am not one), but I’m not totally convinced by claims it is an unlabelled cal… it does look very cal-like, but could be one of the various lookalike cal jackets made by others… in favour stitch lines from top of side pockets to centre are present, kidney panel looks stiff, 3 grommet side laces, belt stitch line spacing is like cal. Against main zip, no mention of fur lined cuffs people always mention as - supposedly definitive (!) - proof of cal provenance, claimed Greenwich shop provenance… unlabelled (granted cal jackets are often unlabelled, but my non expert understanding was that was that was for police jackets, which this isn’t - no badge holder is present, no belt loops)

Anyway it’s looks in great shape and the leather looks nice. But that main zip is pretty ugly/doesn’t fit well with rest of the retro jacket design to my eye… and price is not bad, but not really a bargain either…

I’m pretty sure the store The Leatherman was in San Francisco and New York City. Some of their LAPD jackets were made by Cal Leathers and others as I’ve heard.

 

[Claybertrand]

Brent

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-19...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
View attachment 387845

These jackets are really cool but be advised----they run really short for their tagged size ESPECIALLY in the back.

 

[Wildhorses]

Thanks for sharing, very interesting.

edit: I just bought a jacket that LW should re-produce. Perfect for his work.

What is this speciel jacket you would like to get a repro, I am curious to know, as you already have so many

 

[handymike]

If not mistaken, I have seen other Kehoe CR's listed for under $200, which seems very reasonable for a vintage jacket. I posted a brown one in October that went for $90 at auction. Is there a clear reason why do these not command more money?

I think these are the best CR style jackets bar none. The fact that they go for such reasonable prices baffles me, but is great for those aficionados that appreciate a find and a deal.

 

[navetsea]

I was just on the phone with stuart, double checked my information.
He does get the hides delivered in sides, without the legs, but with the butt, shells included.
He didn't seem to think using the shells in jackets was that big a deal, he just said "it's a very tought piece, but it doesn't have much grain so we use it for specific pieces where it makes sens, underside of sleeves, top yokes, things like that."
Apparently the average MC jacket takes around 3 sides, so a horse and a half. It sounds like a lot but he says there is a lot of waste due to marks and defects in the hides.
It takes around 60sq/ft of horse hide to make a MC jacket, but making a sheepskin jacket of similar size only takes 40sq/ft as the sheepskins are much cleaner.

great info Carlos thanks!
cow is also quite clean, probably they have sedentary lifestyle unlike horses, I buy a cow hide last time around 52sqf if memory serves, it was blemishless, and fit for a cross zip and got plenty returned to me, while the guy who cut it already very spendy in using the hide, like having both sides of the collar in clean panel without seam, and the facing is also one panel.