Finds and Deals - Leather Jacket Edition

[JMax]

@Claybertrand, well, yeah, if that's how costly this sorta fix'd turn out to be there than yeah, you definitely need to weigh in whether the jacket's worth it - And it rarely is. Most I ever had to pay was $25 and that's for an entire jacket overhaul, hardware included. But anyone with whom I've been discussing repairs here on TFL told me these things cost a LOT where they are. . . I guess it's dirt cheap here because people just don't bother fixing their leather jackets since mall junk usually comes out at just about the same so leather shops have to compete.

The owner of my favorite shop told me how it's literally me and this other dude bringing in leather stuff lately and how he's switched almost entirely to textile. I won't forget, there was a stack of highest freaking fashion leather pants piled on the shelf, waiting to be narrowed or something. Literally a pile several thousand dollars worth on Grailed. That's what the other dude brought in. I can't believe someone'd leave a $4000 Amiri leather cargo pants with a guy that's drunk most of the day. Speaking of which, I really should take in those Bates pants since no one's buying them. Can't give up on them 70's vibes.

Damn. For certain repairs, I may be better off shipping the jacket over to your neck of the woods.

 

[JMax]

Cal CR

https://etsy.me/3heHG53

 

[JMax]

Lee Trevor

https://etsy.me/3AGQp7Y

 

[Aloysius]

https://www.brogueshop.com/products/aero-leather-indian-ranger-jacket
If you are size 36 you can't lose

Ha, came in here to post this! Spotted it when I visited their site after a friend mentioned going to Brogue.

Hahah, I posted this one here last month and hemmed and hawed about the size. It’s good in the shoulders, chest and sleeves for me but body is probably a bit short (though more classic 50s fit).

But every time I see it I am tempted. The classic James Dean jacket (needs mouton to complete that look, of course).

As far as I know (and photos would seem to confirm this), while Dean wore an Indian Ranger jacket, his jacket with the mouton collar was a Cal Leathers.

Speaking of which, there are several vintage Cal Leathers (including the mouton collar) on their website at the moment, for half the price of a new one. Sizes 38-42.

 

[photo2u]

I suppose I should have given more context to the word "costly". I mean relative to the likely jacket purchase price. And the reason I say its costly, is that I live in California and everything here is COSTLY!!!

Leather tailoring is unique because there aren't a lot of places that do leather jacket tailoring for heavy leather. And its drastically different in different parts of the world cost wise. Even here in the States there are clear price differences. Aero Fan got his main zipper on an Aero replaced for like $20 by an Amish leather repair shop including the zipper I believe. I have paid as much as $260 for a vintage main zipper and replacement. So this could just be a thing where Tailoring is cheaper in some areas (Europe?? Iowa???) than others (California).

Basically, in Southern California, you are looking at $20 minimum or so flat rate to comfortably ship the jacket each way unless you live driving distance to the tailor. Normal tailors are scared by thick leather like Cals have. Even Leather Tailors may charge a premium for working on heavier leathers. So if you are shipping, already you are at $40. Then there is the cost of repair. Some repairs may be easier to access than others. I would say that fix may run another $40-50 or more. Just a guess on my part admittedly.

For example, Dena at GreatLeather/LeatherCare in Illinois specializes in Vintage leather jackets and many here have had her work on their leather. She has a minimum of $15 ("$15 and up for any repair requiring opening the lining.") Extra heavy leather for zipper repairs runs much higher than for non heavy. This is all stated in their pricing information on their webpage. https://greatleather.com/restore.php#sprices

All of this to say, if I personally were to buy that jacket at its bare minimum price of $200 plus tax and shipping that pushes the jacket to $251.50. Then if you have to ship, as I would, to the tailor, using USPS Flat Rate (so I don't have to wad it up in a ball to ship it) its like, $21.00 each way. So I'm at $293 without factoring in the actual cost of the repair itself. Let's just say its $40 to repair it. Now I'm, at $333.50 and this is using a conservative buy price. That jacket has a BIN at $375.00 so it may not be there for the taking at $200 but that price is what I used for this exercise.

So in my exercise, now I'm at $333.50 fairly conservatively (we could quibble about the repair price itself I suppose but I think its fairly accurate in my area). For that price, or a bit more perhaps, you can usually find a decent Cal in better shape that doesn't need the repair. THAT is my point---the repair is relatively costly if you can find a jacket in the same price range not needing work done on it. I have seen nice Cals go in this range.

When I evaluate jackets, if its missing a main zip, that's $100. If its got bad knit cuffs and waistband that's $150 or so. If it needs re-lining its $250 and up. That is what leather tailoring costs in my area. So that's how I have to value a jacket in terms of what it will need to fix it and how much I will have to put into it to make it wearable.

Maybe the best direction for the OP would be to reach out to his local tailor---OR visit the newly established Leather Vendor Thread here in Outerwear for any references. Email the jacket photos to the Tailor and see what they say. I would also reach out to Cal directly. I think between Gwen at Cal and Dena at GreatLeather one could get a good read on repair costs. Then try to get the jacket at the lower end.

I truly do not understand why some people charge extra for thicker leather or #10 zippers. It is the same thing. Professional sewing machines used by tailor can sew thicker leather with no problem. Too me, when I see extra for such charges, I do not bother with them and will never give them my business.

 

[Aloysius]

I truly do not understand why some people charge extra for thicker leather or #10 zippers. It is the same thing. Professional sewing machines used by tailor can sew thicker leather with no problem. Too me, when I see extra for such charges, I do not bother with them and will never give them my business.

While the machines can sew through heavier/thicker leathers, that doesn't mean they're just as easy to work with.

 

[JMax]

I truly do not understand why some people charge extra for thicker leather or #10 zippers. It is the same thing. Professional sewing machines used by tailor can sew thicker leather with no problem. Too me, when I see extra for such charges, I do not bother with them and will never give them my business.

Ive been told by three different, reputable leather tailors and one true leather guru that thick hides like those found on LW are harder to work with, especially when you factor in maintaining hole for hole, those straight, tight stitch lines.

Of course, any mope, like me, with the equipment can simply install a new zip or whatever on a thick leather jacket. Some jackets require a bit more time and skill to get it just right. Or so I’ve been told, I still color outside the lines.

 

[alish]

Very good condition Schott, size small (P2P 21.75"), bidding starting at $175 (no bids yet):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393417637718?hash=item5b9984bf56:g:hHIAAOSweEdgzSy1

 

[Claybertrand]

I truly do not understand why some people charge extra for thicker leather or #10 zippers. It is the same thing. Professional sewing machines used by tailor can sew thicker leather with no problem. Too me, when I see extra for such charges, I do not bother with them and will never give them my business.

FWIW, I have had tailors be really uncertain about undertaking thicker leather for zipper replacements. I have had a couple just say they won't do it, AND I have had a tailor BREAK 2 NEEDLES while doing a jacket (I think its a Taubers--thick leather). So I don't think it's some Old Tailor's Ploy to ratchet up the costs. They are upcharging for a legitimate reason and I WANT them to do this. I want them to spend the extra time if its necessary.

 

[photo2u]

Ive been told by three different, reputable leather tailors and one true leather guru that thick hides like those found on LW are harder to work with, especially when you factor in maintaining hole for hole, those straight, tight stitch lines.

Of course, any mope, like me, with the equipment can simply install a new zip or whatever on a thick leather jacket. Some jackets require a bit more time and skill to get it just right. Or so I’ve been told, I still color outside the lines.

You are correct. However, I have done some sewing my self due to the lack of quality professional work in my area (Los Angeles County). I started working and repairing dainese suits back in the 90s. My work was much better than most of the "Motorcycle" dedicated craftsman in my area. I also did seat for Ducati, Harley and BMW vintage bikes. In the late 70s, began to repair my own machines. In my collection, I have 8 machines that were literally found in the side of the road. From a Singer k29 to my workhorse servo motor consew (Bartered for a boat reupholster). I also worked with some boot makers in Leon Guanajuato. Working with thicker leather is difficult, but it should not be overpriced due to the thickness of leather. Lost worlds leather is thick, but I have worked with much ticker leather than their 4+ HH. Truly not that much more difficult. The problem is, many people are just losing the passion to produce excellent work. The proof is that most people find it necessary to ship items for repair due to the lack of local talent. I remember when there were many shoe repair in Pasadena when I was growing up. Now I think that there are six? Out of the six, One only does quality shoe resoles and major repairs. There is only one gent in this forum who I really trust to take on the jobs I can not PRESENTLY do.

 

[photo2u]

FWIW, I have had tailors be really uncertain about undertaking thicker leather for zipper replacements. I have had a couple just say they won't do it, AND I have had a tailor BREAK 2 NEEDLES while doing a jacket (I think its a Taubers--thick leather). So I don't think it's some Old Tailor's Ploy to ratchet up the costs. They are upcharging for a legitimate reason and I WANT them to do this. I want them to spend the extra time if its necessary.

I respect your thinking. However, If they are braking needles there is a problem with their skills or the needles they are using. Leather is soft. A Leather penetrating needles should, not break under load. I have seen old singer penetrate 8 layers of thick leather with no problem. Here is a link to what I am saying. However, I can understand by your reasoning that you might not be very experience with leather sewing. Here is the link to a regular singer 15 series machine (home models)

 

[photo2u]

Ha, came in here to post this! Spotted it when I visited their site after a friend mentioned going to Brogue.




As far as I know (and photos would seem to confirm this), while Dean wore an Indian Ranger jacket, his jacket with the mouton collar was a Cal Leathers.

Speaking of which, there are several vintage Cal Leathers (including the mouton collar) on their website at the moment, for half the price of a new one. Sizes 38-42.

I did mine with left over pieces that I had around. The problem for me was finding the period correct snaps. However, I was able to locate them from a friend in good old Tecate Mexico. He was a motorcycle garment leather maker in Baja. Now I need to find the corrects snaps for my J24 Buco. In the past 20 years I have been able to locate several period correct Mouton from the 30s to the 60s. My favorite is the curly type.

 

[Coriu]

Branded CHP Size 42 $150BIN OBO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294260320900?hash=item4483482a84:g:YoQAAOSw301g43hm

 

[Coriu]

Johnson Leather Size 42 CR $130 BIN OBO
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284361097304?hash=item42353e0058:g:DG4AAOSwkBBga60r

 

[mendelboaz]

Buco Steerhide D pocket Size 40 Auction starting at $50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174805533387?hash=item28b338c2cb:g:Gz8AAOSwbBVgymJu

Long overdue, but I owe you a huge amount of thanks for posting this.

 

[Monitor]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304056803329

 

[Leather Walker]

Cal at £275 in UK: https://www.etsy.com/listing/995830069/

 

[Monitor]

Cal at £275 in UK: https://www.etsy.com/listing/995830069/

That one's very thin and flimsy.

 

[Pandemic]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-Germ...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Claybertrand]

I respect your thinking. However, If they are braking needles there is a problem with their skills or the needles they are using. Leather is soft. A Leather penetrating needles should, not break under load. I have seen old singer penetrate 8 layers of thick leather with no problem. Here is a link to what I am saying. However, I can understand by your reasoning that you might not be very experience with leather sewing. Here is the link to a regular singer 15 series machine (home models)

That's really cool that you have some good experience with leather working and that you have the ability to use and work on the sewing machines!!! What a skill to have to compliment a leather jacket collecting hobby!!!! You are a few steps ahead of most of us. There are a few members who are able to fashion their own leather.

Personally, I do not have this experience so this video is interesting.

Regarding the broken needles, its not really my thinking but rather simply my experience. The Leather worker who broke the needles was actually a cobbler who does leather upholstery and starting making garments. He has a number of machines so I don't know what he was using when he broke them. I wouldn't use him for a vintage jacket again although the repair turned out ok.

My perspective is---yes leather tailoring is a dying art of sorts. No the U.S. doesn't have the same type of work force that used to exist and obviously, demand for such services is just not there en masse or there would be more people doing it. The few that do charge accordingly. That's just capitalism. I am getting only vintage jackets repaired since that is mainly what I collect. So for me, having so many jackets that need work and knowing the costs of most repairs, I just try to be selective and only send in items that will really benefit from professional restoration. From what I have seen in limited experience and from what I have read from other members, there are a select few places that are known to do a good job. There are likely many many more of these places even in our area.

This is why JonBuilder's Vendor List Thread is such a good idea. When we find these local tailors that DO still do good work, we can share them.

I bought a jacket from a member who lives near me. He told me he had had a jacket re-lined by an old Turkish man who tailored garments in his garage. I have this jacket now and the guy did great work and from what I understand, it was under $100 including the fabric. This is a vintage goatskin jacket that is like NEW!!!! This old guy has had some health problems and he said he no longer is tailoring except for family. But these people are out there.

Post some pics of your old machines man!!! It would be cool to see them. If I hear of anyone doing good work in your area, I'll let you know.