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Field Leathers

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,358
Location
Europe
I think the processing of the order should be separated from the result. Even a sub-optimal process can deliver an excellent result. I'm sorry it wasn't the case for you.
I expect 5* to use zips other than those agreed, but not FL. At least I think it's unfair to just do it like that. It would have been better not to accept the order.
These sleeves... something must have gone really wrong. They are disastrous.
 

Momein

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
Location
Germany
@mvilla
I can well understand your disappointment regarding the zipper and top stitch ending. I have never seen the latter on any of Greg's jackets. Did you ask for an explanation? Regarding the cuffs - maybe it's just coincidence, but all my jackets (fcl Eric, Himel pinecrest, Schott vn626), where the leather of the gusset is only attached to one side of the sleeve, have this finish with visible leather edge on the inside. Despite the flaws, I really like your jacket. Cool design & lining and french seams. But as I said, I understand the disappointment.
 

Tom71

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2,739
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Europe
I totally get your disappointment. Not what anybody would have expected from Greg, especially after his run of seemingly perfectly executed jackets.
One can only assume - and this is not meant as a justification - that Greg was really preoccupied with other issues.

I will say that the jacket looks very good overall. Not trying to ignore the bad execution, but these are things nobody will notice in real life, and if you can learn to life with the flaws, you will still have a super jacket (provided it fits, of course).
The lining is out of this world beautiful!!!
 

Momein

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
Location
Germany
@mvilla
I can well understand your disappointment regarding the zipper and top stitch ending. I have never seen the latter on any of Greg's jackets. Did you ask for an explanation? Regarding the cuffs - maybe it's just coincidence, but all my jackets (fcl Eric, Himel pinecrest, Schott vn626), where the leather of the gusset is only attached to one side of the sleeve, have this finish with visible leather edge on the inside. Despite the flaws, I really like your jacket. Cool design & lining and french seams. But as I said, I understand the disappointment.
Correction - the leather at the cuff of the Eric is folded.
 

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Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,208
Jacket didn't look too bad til I saw the sleeves. Man, that is brutal. Is that going to affect fit and comfort at your wrist like that? Sorry you have to deal with this frustrating disappointment. The stitching hiccups are also not great but easier to forgive. As others said, it's likely due to the rapid growth of his brand and the lack of manpower to support the production quality those familiar with the brand have come to expect.
 

Bennarion

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,217
Well, after 16 months, the jacket finally arrived. And I'll have to say, it is rather disappointing. I'm not saying it is a bad jacket, because it certainly is not. It's just not the custom jacket I ordered.

First the photos:
View attachment 618098 View attachment 618099 View attachment 618106 View attachment 618105 View attachment 618100 View attachment 618103 View attachment 618104 View attachment 618102
In fact, as many people here have said, the jacket is very good. I like the design of how it is sewn. How does the jacket fit you?
 
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Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,345
Now, nitpicking, the finishing was left to be desired in some parts as well, in my opinion, such as on the cuffs (I expected not to see exposed inner leather as it is)
That's exactly how the cuffs on my FL are finished. At first I thought this is simply how these kind of cuffs are finished but I just checked one of my vintage jackets and it is nicely finished with the lining covering the leather edges.

Field leathers

IMG_1362.jpeg


Kit Karson

IMG_1364.jpeg

and the end of stitching right on top of the front zip

He didn't want the bobbin thread to show on the topside of the collar so he turned the jacket over at these points in order to stitch it from the backside. That's one way of doing it. The other option is to have the bobbin thread on the topside of the collar which doesn't look as good but at least the stitching will be uninterrupted.

It sucks that he didn't use the zippers you provided. I guess the width of the zipper tape didn't match his own zippers so he would have had to adjust the pattern to accommodate for that. I'm sure it could be done but I guess he didn't want to put in even more time.

I think Greg has bitten off more than he can chew with some of these full custom projects.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,321
Location
Germany
Not using the Crowns is pretty bad. It not being a mistake, them knowingly and for no good reason not using them is absolutely ridiculous.
If they agreed upon them being used, it‘s even more than that, it would be breach of contract. Like, everything else, stitching, cuff design, etc; all that you can debate about whats appropriate for the price tag, everyone entitled to their opinion, all good. But if I pay you money for a service, and you take my money, don‘t do as agreed upon and dismiss it with „couldnt be bothered“, that‘s straight up breach of contract. I am not your friend, you are not doing me a favor, this is a business relationship. Imagine paying a mason to build you a house and you agree on wooden window and door frames, you even pre order them and put them ok the construction site and he puts in plastic windows and tells you „yeah i was in a hurry, so i used these instead“ lmao.
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,075
Location
Philadelphia
Now, to the issues. First thing, obviously, is the time. I was initially quoted 9 to 10 months when I first placed my order, February 1st of 2023. As I mentioned previously, it's been 16 months. I have the feeling these custom jackets were all pushed back so Field Leathers could take their new projects and collabs, which is just poor time management. Besides, as I already complained previously, my jacket was pushed back in favour of "easier to make" jackets. Well, this is a fairly plain half belt, as you all can see. Another problem is the lack of communication. Several times I was ghosted and my questions weren't answered. I think this is somewhat common practice among this medium. I also thought I was buying a full custom jacket, whilst in fact most of the things I asked they "weren't happy to make" and "reserved the right to refuse". Even simple things, such as a cinch on the cuff or decorative stitching. Lastly, and this is where I honestly just got full disappointed, I bought Crown zips to be used on this jacket. I posted around here about them already, and I've been talking about these for almost a year now with them. To my surprise, Greg sent me a video with the jacket 80% made already and a message "you will notice I didn't use your zips, but I was already stressed out with time and had to go with something I knew, sorry". I will say exactly what I told him, this is rather frustrating, as I've been talking about these zips for long enough, and he already worked with them before. I understand there are decisions that are up to the artisan in this type of job, however using "time" as an excuse is just poor form, the jacket is already at least 6 months late, and I waited patiently.
View attachment 618107
View attachment 618108 View attachment 618109

Now, nitpicking, the finishing was left to be desired in some parts as well, in my opinion, such as on the cuffs (I expected not to see exposed inner leather as it is) and the end of stitching right on top of the front zip
View attachment 618113


View attachment 618111

My LL for reference of what I mean about the cuff
View attachment 618112

This is the most I've ever spent on any piece of garment, and I have to say I was much more pleased with my used LL and Eastman, or my "custom" Aero.

Sorry to hear that. How does it fit though?
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,739
Location
Europe
If they agreed upon them being used, it‘s even more than that, it would be breach of contract. Like, everything else, stitching, cuff design, etc; all that you can debate about whats appropriate for the price tag, everyone entitled to their opinion, all good. But if I pay you money for a service, and you take my money, don‘t do as agreed upon and dismiss it with „couldnt be bothered“, that‘s straight up breach of contract. I am not your friend, you are not doing me a favor, this is a business relationship. Imagine paying a mason to build you a house and you agree on wooden window and door frames, you even pre order them and put them ok the construction site and he puts in plastic windows and tells you „yeah i was in a hurry, so i used these instead“ lmao.

Your right, of course. In theory. The remedy would be damages, e.g. for the additional cost incurred in having somebody else replace the zipper, I guess. In theory.

Now, we all know what kind of business Greg runs. And what kind of guy he is. Unlike another small maker he never acted like a total smurf, dismissing all criticism in longish social-media rants.
What we don’t know is under what pressure he is or was at a given point and what the financial situation is.

Again, not trying to justify the outcome here and certainly NOT attempting to question or dismiss the disappointment of the buyer.

Emotionally though, I’d like to cut Greg some slack. He tried to adjust his liberal approach to customer specs, and here we may see one of the reasons why.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,723
@mvilla This is very unfortunate. I’ve been there. The disappointment feelings were not great, you’re handling it like a true gent. The zipper and the cuff can be remedied. But for now probably best to let the feelings pass over first. The cuff just needs an extra inside leather facing added ( I’ll add some photos later), and the Crown Zipper can always be reinstalled at a later date.
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
513
Location
Nottingham, UK
These cuffs are an absolute joke, you wouldnt see this on a 200 dollar mall jacket. Why on earth would anyone sew them ontop of the lining and expose the leather instead of the other way around? Straight up trolling if you ask me. Same for the excuse of not using your zippers. Bro, it‘s a zipper, it has a zipper tape same as anyone, which part of sewing this instead of any other one stressed him out exactly? Sorry mate, I truly wished this jacket be perfect after that long wait and accumulated frustration. I‘d close this chapter by sending the jacket back and asking for a refund, too much money to just take the L imho.
Quite frustrating, true... Feels cheap, like a job that wasn't finished. Anyway, apparently he's done the same way on other jackets, as @Marc mndt showed. I don't think it is a £1500 worthy job, though...
@mvilla
I can well understand your disappointment regarding the zipper and top stitch ending. I have never seen the latter on any of Greg's jackets. Did you ask for an explanation? Regarding the cuffs - maybe it's just coincidence, but all my jackets (fcl Eric, Himel pinecrest, Schott vn626), where the leather of the gusset is only attached to one side of the sleeve, have this finish with visible leather edge on the inside. Despite the flaws, I really like your jacket. Cool design & lining and french seams. But as I said, I understand the disappointment.
Yeah, he just told me he was stressed out with time. I wouldn't mind waiting another month for the jacket, if he needed... I mean, it's not even jacket season anymore, and I've already waited for 16 months, so I'd much rather wait and get what I paid for instead of repro Talons when I have authentic Crowns...

Regarding past jackets with Crown, there are a couple on his IG page. Besides, I got confirmation that he'd use my zips, including in the morning when he was starting my jacket.

Jacket didn't look too bad til I saw the sleeves. Man, that is brutal. Is that going to affect fit and comfort at your wrist like that? Sorry you have to deal with this frustrating disappointment. The stitching hiccups are also not great but easier to forgive. As others said, it's likely due to the rapid growth of his brand and the lack of manpower to support the production quality those familiar with the brand have come to expect.
Yep, agreed.

That's exactly how the cuffs on my FL are finished. At first I thought this is simply how these kind of cuffs are finished but I just checked one of my vintage jackets and it is nicely finished with the lining covering the leather edges.

Field leathers

View attachment 618153

Kit Karson

View attachment 618154


He didn't want the bobbin thread to show on the topside of the collar so he turned the jacket over at these points in order to stitch it from the backside. That's one way of doing it. The other option is to have the bobbin thread on the topside of the collar which doesn't look as good but at least the stitching will be uninterrupted.

It sucks that he didn't use the zippers you provided. I guess the width of the zipper tape didn't match his own zippers so he would have had to adjust the pattern to accommodate for that. I'm sure it could be done but I guess he didn't want to put in even more time.

I think Greg has bitten off more than he can chew with some of these full custom projects.
So it is just a cuff style he doesn't know how to do properly, I suppose... And regarding time, as I said, I just feel it's a bad excuse, as it is not jacket season anymore and I wouldn't mind waiting a little longer to get what I paid for. I would like to have been consulted first if that is the case, at least. I was just communicated that he didn't use my zips.

I agree that he took more than he could handle.

If they agreed upon them being used, it‘s even more than that, it would be breach of contract. Like, everything else, stitching, cuff design, etc; all that you can debate about whats appropriate for the price tag, everyone entitled to their opinion, all good. But if I pay you money for a service, and you take my money, don‘t do as agreed upon and dismiss it with „couldnt be bothered“, that‘s straight up breach of contract. I am not your friend, you are not doing me a favor, this is a business relationship. Imagine paying a mason to build you a house and you agree on wooden window and door frames, you even pre order them and put them ok the construction site and he puts in plastic windows and tells you „yeah i was in a hurry, so i used these instead“ lmao.
Yep, that's about how I feel, real good description.

Your right, of course. In theory. The remedy would be damages, e.g. for the additional cost incurred in having somebody else replace the zipper, I guess. In theory.

Now, we all know what kind of business Greg runs. And what kind of guy he is. Unlike another small maker he never acted like a total smurf, dismissing all criticism in longish social-media rants.
What we don’t know is under what pressure he is or was at a given point and what the financial situation is.

Again, not trying to justify the outcome here and certainly NOT attempting to question or dismiss the disappointment of the buyer.

Emotionally though, I’d like to cut Greg some slack. He tried to adjust his liberal approach to customer specs, and here we may see one of the reasons why.
As I said, I surely don't wish nothing bad on them, may their business thrive, for real. However I just feel let down here .

@mvilla This is very unfortunate. I’ve been there. The disappointment feelings were not great, you’re handling it like a true gent. The zipper and the cuff can be remedied. But for now probably best to let the feelings pass over first. The cuff just needs an extra inside leather facing added ( I’ll add some photos later), and the Crown Zipper can always be reinstalled at a later date.
Yeah, in the future I intend to have it sent to a tailor or something and replace the zips, the problem is that it is gonna coast a leg and an arm...
 

Will Zach

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,846
Location
SoFlo
Not installing the Crowns would be a deal-breaker for me. I'd be furious. If he promised to install them and then didn't, that is really bad. That is not keeping your word to a customer who's been waiting 16 months for the jacket because you had other priorities. NOS Crowns are an ultimate piece of bling for a jacket, I am surprised Greg does not appreciate it, and does not appreciate his customers enough to go out of his way to install them. I guess IG collabs are more important.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,723
Fit looks pretty damn good! The long wait has some pent up energy that needs some processing. Deal with the cuff and zipper later. I’m sure when in a bit of time Greg can also do the cuff n zip for you, now is probably a bit touchy. Give it a few days.

IMG_1260.jpeg
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IMG_8203.jpeg
IMG_8202.jpeg
 

mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
513
Location
Nottingham, UK
The only thing about the fitting that I disliked is this fold near the collar... Feels like the neck whole wasn't deep enough
 

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mvilla

Practically Family
Messages
513
Location
Nottingham, UK
Fit looks pretty damn good! The long wait has some pent up energy that needs some processing. Deal with the cuff and zipper later. I’m sure when in a bit of time Greg can also do the cuff n zip for you, now is probably a bit touchy. Give it a few days.
That's a good suggestion, I'll really look into it

All issues aside, that's a spectacular looking jacket. Beautiful really.
Thanks, mate. Really appreciate that! :)
 

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