Field Leathers

[Aloysius]

idk why you would want non skived. the wallet in the armpit feeling isnt fun.

I’ve never found them to feel like a “wallet in the armpit”.

Also, bulky unskived seams tend to eat into the lining.

View attachment 601880

I don’t really mind this, but if concerned someone could get the jacket with hem leather like most American makers do.

 

[ton312]

I don’t think we can call her an apprentice by any stretch. She was a peer of Sam and Greg.

I think these are only an introductory offer because she’s learning the new patterns/designs. She knows what she’s doing.

Certainly not an apprentice, she made my CR in 2016 while at Aero. The learning curve should be quite shallow as the chicago looks exactly like an Aero premier HWM.

 

[MickeyPunch]

Aero marks their apprentice-made jackets differently (and price them cheaper, of course), right? So one can assume a regular Aero is made by someone with experience.

So if people that were once working for Aero are now making FL, what is exactly they do that makes them better jackets (from a pure construction/“quality” point of view)?

Do they have better processes? Better instruments? Higher standards that prioritise attention to detail over yield? Only the top Aero machinists could work for FL? Construction details like skivved seams discussed above that Aero won’t do for whatever reason (not faithful to the original design, not cost-effective…)? All of the above?

PS: not doubting for a second their jackets are better made, just curious as to why.

 

[ton312]

So if people that were once working for Aero are now making FL, what is exactly they do that makes them better jackets (from a pure construction/“quality” point of view)?

Nothing IMO. The arguements about stitch count and seam construction have never persuaded me. Aero claims to have a reason for the way they assemble, as does just about every other maker on the planet. FL uses different hides than Aero. FL seeminly had a bit more creativity in design, at least at the start, and the custom process was far more open in terms of what Greg would do. I feel that since the start FL has been less of a utility piece than Aero and the fit is more fashion focused. This is not a knock by any means, merely an observation.

 

[mvilla]

I think it is more a matter of getting used to the patterns and new construction style more than "testing skills", that's why it is an apprentice level.

Field dropped the full custom option a while ago and, even for myself, who made the purchase while the full custom offer was still valid, there are plenty of ideas they just dropped because they didn't like (double action back, cuff cinch, decorative stitchings, etc...)

I believe their current focus now is sorta become some sort of a "Rainbow Country" or "Freewheeler" of the East. So I guess that's where the training will be focused, in losing the "rough" techniques of Aero and migrating more towards japanese maker techniques?

 

[Tom71]

Aero marks their apprentice-made jackets differently (and price them cheaper, of course), right? So one can assume a regular Aero is made by someone with experience.

So if people that were once working for Aero are now making FL, what is exactly they do that makes them better jackets (from a pure construction/“quality” point of view)?

Do they have better processes? Better instruments? Higher standards that prioritise attention to detail over yield? Only the top Aero machinists could work for FL? Construction details like skivved seams discussed above that Aero won’t do for whatever reason (not faithful to the original design, not cost-effective…)? All of the above?

PS: not doubting for a second their jackets are better made, just curious as to why.

Agreed on the spot-on observations from @ton312 and @mvilla.

For me, the leathers used are the biggest appeal of FL. Obviously, Aero has caught up massively since offering Badalassi hides.

I believe @ton312 is right to call FL less "utility pieces" than Aero.

On the minus-side, FL offers much less variance in models now that Greg had to drop the initial "anything goes" approach.

 

[Daniel Veit]

I just ordered a halfbelt. As per Sam modifications can be made regarding the sleeve and body length (+60)and the lining (another 60).
For 560 you can't get an aero jacket (except used of course), so for me, with my ape arms, a no brainier.

 

[Jiantle]

I just ordered a halfbelt. As per Sam modifications can be made regarding the sleeve and body length (+60)and the lining (another 60).

They told me the same too and I'm waiting to hear back on the stock measurements to see if I'd need modifications to the lengths or not.

Do you know what the stock lining material is?

 

[Momein]

I just ordered a halfbelt. As per Sam modifications can be made regarding the sleeve and body length (+60)and the lining (another 60).
For 560 you can't get an aero jacket (except used of course), so for me, with my ape arms, a no

I just ordered a halfbelt. As per Sam modifications can be made regarding the sleeve and body length (+60)and the lining (another 60).
For 560 you can't get an aero jacket (except used of course), so for me, with my ape arms, a no brainier.

And what happened to your old customised halfbelt order?

 

[Daniel Veit]

I believe the lining is some kind of cotton twill.

And what happened to your old customised halfbelt order?

It became a aviator style cross zip with a hercules back in cognac badalassi

 

[Momein]

I believe the lining is some kind of cotton twill.


It became a aviator style cross zip with a hercules back in cognac badalassi

Ah cool. Did you already get it?

 

[Daniel Veit]

Ah cool. Did you already get it?

No, at first I insisted on a darker shade of badalassi, which is currently not offered. I changed my mind now as I am getting the brown halfbelt from Tony Field (so to speak).

 

[jglf]

Just placed an order for their Chicago in size 40. Does anyone here have this model/size and can post its measurements?

 

[MrProper]

I thought about it for a moment. But the pattern didn't suit me back then, so it won't suit me today either. Too many changes to make to get it the way I want it.

 

[Marc mndt]

But the pattern didn't suit me back then, so it won't suit me today either.

Your FL jacket's pattern and the current pattern have nothing in common.

 

[MrProper]

Your FL jacket's pattern and the current pattern have nothing in common.

Nice if that's the case. But I still don't want to try it out. The risk is too high that it still won't fit and I don't want to have to sell another FL lol
And it's not as if I absolutely need a new FL ;-)

 

[STPmotor]

Nice if that's the case. But I still don't want to try it out. The risk is too high that it still won't fit and I don't want to have to sell another FL lol
And it's not as if I absolutely need a new FL ;-)

apologies if I'm picking at a scab here...but what were your issues with the FL pattern?

 

[Jiantle]

Just placed an order for their Chicago in size 40. Does anyone here have this model/size and can post its measurements?

Mine is in a size 42 and is their test jacket but here are the measurements provided by Greg.

Pit 22.5
Abdomen 20.5
Hem 20
Sleeve 25.25
Back 24.25
Shoulder 18.75

 

[MrProper]

apologies if I'm picking at a scab here...but what were your issues with the FL pattern?

Although p2p's measurements were identical to my other jackets, the jacket was too tight across the chest. The sleeves, which were attached with too much forward rotation, exacerbated the problem. There was a good 2cm less between the sleeve seams on the chest than with my other jackets. Despite the same p2p. I.e. the armholes were cut out more. The rotation of the sleeves warped the jacket when the arms went down normally. I think the pattern came from a motorbike jacket, as this makes perfect sense because you have a completely different posture.

 

[Marc mndt]

Although p2p's measurements were identical to my other jackets, the jacket was too tight across the chest. The sleeves, which were attached with too much forward rotation, exacerbated the problem. There was a good 2cm less between the sleeve seams on the chest than with my other jackets. Despite the same p2p. I.e. the armholes were cut out more. The rotation of the sleeves warped the jacket when the arms went down normally. I think the pattern came from a motorbike jacket, as this makes perfect sense because you have a completely different posture.

These were issues with his very first pattern, four years ago. Then he had the patterns adjusted, less sleeve curvature and more chest width. Unfortunately the adjusted patterns came with square shoulders. Last year he did a total overhaul of all of his patterns, which resulted in his current lineup.