Field Leathers

[Jaime]

^ Great post and review! The jacket looks to be an absolutely perfect fit and the hide is lovely! In thinking about the shoulders, they remind me of 50's leather jackets that had shoulder pads sewn into the seams, like this campus jacket:
View attachment 483679
I have always removed the padding but the square shoulder does remain. I don’t know if this aesthetic is by choice for Greg or not but is certainly not without precedent in vintage pieces.

Thank you! Absolutely, nothing's new under the sun. I really don't know either but he's proved a lot of times that he can make different shoulders and adjust the pattern to the client's taste so I can only assume that it is by choice. A gorgeous jacket you have there by the way!

Nice review, @Jaime . On a side note, what are the pants? Always on the lookout for non-dark pants to wear with leather. Great match, give some contrast and counterpoint to the jacket.

Thank you Will, they are a pair of carpenter pants by Dockers:

https://es.dockers.com/products/mens-straight-fit-carpenter-pants-a31340002

Got them because of the same reason you mentioned and even though they are nothing special they are comfy, sturdy and give a nice silhouette.

He’s the Edward Sexton of leather jackets.

Greg is a master of his craft, the silhouette one either loves it or hates it.

He truly is! It is quite impressive to see the product of his craft, no matter if you are a jacket aficionado like us or just a civilian.

 

[Marc mndt]

Great review. I love the look of the brown cowhide, can't wait to get a jacket in that leather myself. I'm happy to see that - even though it's not full aniline- it does hold some nice sleeve creases.

I think Greg beats them all in terms of finishing. Maybe I haven’t seen enough high-end jackets yet but I've seen enough to convince me.

I like the finish on FL jackets better because it's more in line with how jackets were made back in the days. Rainbow country and other Japanese manufacturers use fancier construction techniques but like I mentioned in another thread therefore to me those jackets look over-engineered.

FL vs FW

Folded over halfbelt (how was done back in the days) vs flattened seam halfbelt.

 

[ChewingWax]

Great review. I love the look of the brown cowhide, can't wait to get a jacket in that leather myself. I'm happy to see that - even though it's not full aniline- it does hold some nice sleeve creases.



I like the finish on FL jackets better because it's more in line with how jackets were made back in the days. Rainbow country and other Japanese manufacturers use fancier construction techniques but like I mentioned in another thread therefore to me those jackets look over-engineered.

View attachment 483689
FL vs FW

Folded over halfbelt (how was done back in the days) vs flattened seam halfbelt.

What exactly are you referring to when you reference the “finishing”?

 

[Jaime]

I'm happy to see that - even though it's not full aniline- it does hold some nice sleeve creases.

Big time, and I'm already starting to see more grain popping up in the areas where there is more creasing especially, it definitely feels sturdier and heavier than I thought it would be, but very supple.

those jackets look over-engineered.

I get what you mean and I totally agree. It wouldn't be a dealbreaker for me because I still like FW but it is a factor that definitely adds to the overall aesthetic, and if you go to that level of detail a decisive factor in terms of authenticity and recreation. In fact, that over-engineering detail is a very accurate example of the state of the industry nowadays, and a very contemporary metaphor if you will.

 

[Jaime]

What exactly are you referring to when you reference the “finishing”?

We are referring to the way the jacket is crafted in its "final" details, the way it is sewn, if there are any loose threads, the way the corners are folded up, the way the different pieces are joined together ... How fine (or not) all that work is.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@Jaime That is a gorgeous jacket and no you're not wrong, Greg has everyone beat in terms of stitching at the very least. Finishing with seems is sort of debatable based on what you prefer, but he is still incredible on that front as well.

I have owned and handled many Freewheelers and RC jackets and Greg's stitching is overall the best I've seen, so your hunch is right. However, from what I remember, he was planning on skiving his seems more in the vein of FW/RC.

 

[Marc mndt]

What exactly are you referring to when you reference the “finishing”?

See other thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/y2-leathers.102143/post-2976425

 

[Jaime]

@Jaime That is a gorgeous jacket and no you're not wrong, Greg has everyone beat in terms of stitching at the very least. Finishing with seems is sort of debatable based on what you prefer, but he is still incredible on that front as well.

I have owned and handled many Freewheelers and RC jackets and Greg's stitching is overall the best I've seen, so your hunch is right. However, from what I remember, he was planning on skiving his seems more in the vein of FW/RC.

Thank you! And yeah, I guess it's easier for a one-man company that happens to be a world-class machinist to make jackets to that standard than it is for other companies that have to, not gonna say mass produce, but at least to make jackets at a higher pace for much more people. I can't wait to get my hands on a Rainbow Country tho! (and handle more Freewheelers as well)

 

[ChewingWax]

See other thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/y2-leathers.102143/post-2976425

Thanks

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Thank you! And yeah, I guess it's easier for a one-man company that happens to be a world-class machinist to make jackets to that standard than it is for other companies that have to, not gonna say mass produce, but at least to make jackets at a higher pace for much more people. I can't wait to get my hands on a Rainbow Country tho! (and handle more Freewheelers as well)

Very true. I still have to give Greg a lot of credit for actually doing it.

Your pattern definitely looks good. That was my one hangup on his jackets in the past. Makes me want to jump back in the queue for one of his jackets.

 

[ChewingWax]

We are referring to the way the jacket is crafted in its "final" details, the way it is sewn, if there are any loose threads, the way the corners are folded up, the way the different pieces are joined together ... How fine (or not) all that work is.

Thanks

 

[Jaime]

Very true. I still have to give Greg a lot of credit for actually doing it.

Your pattern definitely looks good. That was my one hangup on his jackets in the past. Makes me want to jump back in the queue for one of his jackets.

I know that in terms of aesthetic it is a matter of taste, but what I can tell is that it is very very comfortable to wear, I asked him to make it roomy enough for layering a thick sweater because winters in Ireland and Spain can be very cold, and even with a t-shirt it doesn't look like it is too big on me

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I know that in terms of aesthetic it is a matter of taste, but what I can tell is that it is very very comfortable to wear, I asked him to make it roomy enough for layering a thick sweater because winters in Ireland and Spain can be very cold, and even with a t-shirt it doesn't look like it is too big on me

I know when I was talking to him previously, he was talking about doing new patterns so I know he wanted to improve some things. I should ask him if he's already made those changes. Yours definitely looks great and balanced.

 

[Jaime]

In case anyone wants to watch it, here is a video of the same photo session with the jacket in motion

 

[Will Zach]

Thank you! Absolutely, nothing's new under the sun. I really don't know either but he's proved a lot of times that he can make different shoulders and adjust the pattern to the client's taste so I can only assume that it is by choice. A gorgeous jacket you have there by the way!



Thank you Will, they are a pair of carpenter pants by Dockers:

https://es.dockers.com/products/mens-straight-fit-carpenter-pants-a31340002

Got them because of the same reason you mentioned and even though they are nothing special they are comfy, sturdy and give a nice silhouette.

View attachment 483684



He truly is! It is quite impressive to see the product of his craft, no matter if you are a jacket aficionado like us or just a civilian.

Thx, sorry to be off-topic, but is the pants fabric substantial, or kinda thin? Thx again.

 

[Damon141]

Thanks for the video. Gives you the feel of the way the jacket fits.

 

[Aloysius]

I'm dubbing this beautiful leather Shitki. We must develop a special handshake or gesture to signal one another in the street, as those who dared to consider something better than the "exalted" Shinki when offered.

Very excited for my own Shitki jacket!

 

[Canuck Panda]

I just watched it with sounds on. Cool sound effects.

Great video. Fits great.

 

[Jaime]

I just watched it with sounds on. Cool sound effects.

Great video. Fits great.

Haha sadly these were not sound effects, it was the autofocus. The Fujifilm 35mm 1.4 is an unreal lens but the auto focus is very noisy, and I was using the camera in built microphone so... Sorry about that!

Thx, sorry to be off-topic, but is the pants fabric substantial, or kinda thin? Thx again.

No bother! They are medium thickness Id say, not as slim as a pair of chinos but they are not heavy-duty pants, I would say it is a sweet spot

 

[Canuck Panda]

Very cool sounds. I'd keep them the way it is.

I also wouldn't worry about the shoulders. They are functional. I have jackets built by motorcycle brands that are exactly like that. When there is no action pleats and still need the mobility, the pattern maker hides the extra mobility in the shoulders. I was gonna take a bunch photos of my jackets that are cut like that but I think your video explained it much better. Thanks for doing that.

I do think if people are lining up for Greg's Mahattan and wanted the utmost mobility to ask for underarm footballs on top of the full action back, like the G-1 jackets or Schott's Perfecto. I think Iam gonna change my mind about my FL queue again.