Field Leathers

[Salmosalar]

Modified Manhattan with brown v black mouton collar

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Looks fantastic! Both options are great, but the brown mouton is my preference. I think these crosszip styles really look their absolute best with the mouton collar - its the cherry on the icing on the cake….!

 

[Marc mndt]

it feels lighter on my back, may be thinner than 1.3mm

The sleeves does not roll as nice as the full aniline FL

This confirms my observations from the swatches I got from Greg. Not only does the teacore swatch feel lighter, it actually is lighter.

It doesn't retain creases like the full aniline, plus the creases are less pronounced.

It would be nice if we could have the best of both worlds: full aniline brown leather with a black overdye (like Aero's blackened brown Vicenza)

Or something like this full aniline pony but with a black topcoat.

 

[Brandrea33]

THanks @Marc mndt. Graining is similar, the black aniline has very fine grains and so does the teacore shinki. The teacore has a coarser touch to the hand, it feels lighter on my back, may be thinner than 1.3mm (that's probably why Greg had to redo my jacket as the 1st jacket he made had panels that were too thin for his liking and did not pass QC) but more rigid overall. I like the shiny black finish but it's not as warm looking as the aniline shinki, the brown has to really peak through to better appreciate this hide. The sleeves does not roll as nice as the full aniline FL but maybe because it hasn't gotten wet yet, the creasing on the lower back is also not as defined as well. The teacore shinki feels like it will need more wear time to break in.

That’s really interesting information, thank you for sharing. I guess I had it backwards, but I always thought that teacore shinki had a quicker break in than full aniline.

 

[Jin431]

Looks fantastic! Both options are great, but the brown mouton is my preference. I think these crosszip styles really look their absolute best with the mouton collar - its the cherry on the icing on the cake….!

Right on, the brown contrast on the black teacore has that nice touch to it, it will definitely look the part once the brown shows through with wear. I also have to agree with the mouton collar looking better for cross zips as evidenced by your Aeros in Badalassi/Vicenza as well. I think they also look great on a cafe racer collar like the Langlitz comstock or a standard collar like the Thedi, straight zip Cal CHP and I have a pretty mean fur collar on a French cyclist styled jacket. I say put a detachable mouton collar on every jacket lol

Also thanks for all the LL tips and insight. Much appreciated.

This confirms my observations from the swatches I got from Greg. Not only does the teacore swatch feel lighter, it actually is lighter.

View attachment 355970

It doesn't retain creases like the full aniline, plus the creases are less pronounced.

View attachment 355971

It would be nice if we could have the best of both worlds: full aniline brown leather with a black overdye (like Aero's blackened brown Vicenza)

Or something like this full aniline pony but with a black topcoat.

View attachment 355972

I think the black teacore is good and all but maybe it does not feel as rewarding to wear as the full aniline FL. I don't know why maybe because it doesn't transform as fast and show wear/character as quickly so there's no instant gratification with the look changing right away.

I think shinki will eventually make their own blackened brown version or maybe it already exist and we are not just aware about it yet.

I bought what they call shinki WP from Japan to make a JL version of a padded Cal LAPD. The Shinki WP looks like the full aniline dyed through but with a glossier finish probably with a light oil top coat and I'm thinking it's tumbled a little because it's much softer than the full aniline.

The vintage black Mulholland I have is so different from the full aniline/WP/pigment finished/black teacore. It feels heavier and heavily waxed (should go away with wear like with what happened to the brown Mulholland). The top layer is black, the middle core is light brown, the exposed nap side is also black.

 

[Salmosalar]

Right on, the brown contrast on the black teacore has that nice touch to it, it will definitely look the part once the brown shows through with wear. I also have to agree with the mouton collar looking better for cross zips as evidenced by your Aeros in Badalassi/Vicenza as well. I think they also look great on a cafe racer collar like the Langlitz comstock or a standard collar like the Thedi, straight zip Cal CHP and I have a pretty mean fur collar on a French cyclist styled jacket. I say put a detachable mouton collar on every jacket lol

Also thanks for all the LL tips and insight. Much appreciated.




I think the black teacore is good and all but maybe it does not feel as rewarding to wear as the full aniline FL. I don't know why maybe because it doesn't transform as fast and show wear/character as quickly so there's no instant gratification with the look changing right away.

I think shinki will eventually make their own blackened brown version or maybe it already exist and we are not just aware about it yet.

I bought what they call shinki WP from Japan to make a JL version of a padded Cal LAPD. The Shinki WP looks like the full aniline dyed through but with a glossier finish probably with a light oil top coat and I'm thinking it's tumbled a little because it's much softer than the full aniline.

The vintage black Mulholland I have is so different from the full aniline/WP/pigment finished/black teacore. It feels heavier and heavily waxed (should go away with wear like with what happened to the brown Mulholland). The top layer is black, the middle core is light brown, the exposed nap side is also black.

Agreed! I have now gone “full mouton”! I have four jackets in production or ordered, all with mouton collars, two of which are detachable with brown and black versions….hopefully in the next few months I should have a Field Leathers crosszip, an Aero Wayfarer and a suede Slimfit MC and a Thedi. What would be amazing is if Lewis offered a mouton on any of their jackets - I have seen them on the occasional collaboration they do, but its certainly not common. I think a green sheep Cyclone with an Irvin collar would be the ultimate endgame, and then I could die happy….

 

[Jin431]

That’s really interesting information, thank you for sharing. I guess I had it backwards, but I always thought that teacore shinki had a quicker break in than full aniline.

No problem at all. The full aniline is a naked hide so even though it's thicker it's much softer/pliable. The teacore shinki has that black pigment on top so that's probably what makes it more hardy and more rigid. Are you opting for the black pony? I forgot which hide you are going for

 

[Brandrea33]

No problem at all. The full aniline is a naked hide so even though it's thicker it's much softer/pliable. The teacore shinki has that black pigment on top so that's probably what makes it more hardy and more rigid. Are you opting for the black pony? I forgot which hide you are going for

Thanks for the clarification. I have so much to learn about all this

Black pony was my choice out of the samples I received. It’s closest to my Himel oil which I absolutely love.

 

[Jin431]

Agreed! I have now gone “full mouton”! I have four jackets in production or ordered, all with mouton collars, two of which are detachable with brown and black versions….hopefully in the next few months I should have a Field Leathers crosszip, an Aero Wayfarer and a suede Slimfit MC and a Thedi. What would be amazing is if Lewis offered a mouton on any of their jackets - I have seen them on the occasional collaboration they do, but its certainly not common. I think a green sheep Cyclone with an Irvin collar would be the ultimate endgame, and then I could die happy….

My kind of guy lol mouton all the way. I'm guessing the Aero wayfarer and slimfit MC have fixed fur collar. So the Thedi and FL will have the detachable ones? You are a LL guy maybe they will agree to fit a mouton on one of your jackets. The cyclone looks very clean and that will look really nice with an Irvin collar. I like the look of the Europa jacket too

Thanks for the clarification. I have so much to learn about all this

Black pony was my choice out of the samples I received. It’s closest to my Himel oil which I absolutely love.

There is also a waxed shinki version. I was told it's full aniline and not teacore so it's different than the leather used for the Mulholland. The waxed shinki is also a little matte so I didn't like it at all.

The brown/black pony is definitely the way to go. I was initially planning a black FL Mulholland but now that I have the black vintage Mulholland then I'll opt for another D pocket cross zip in brown pony.

 

[Salmosalar]

My kind of guy lol mouton all the way. I'm guessing the Aero wayfarer and slimfit MC have fixed fur collar. So the Thedi and FL will have the detachable ones? You are a LL guy maybe they will agree to fit a mouton on one of your jackets. The cyclone looks very clean and that will look really nice with an Irvin collar. I like the look of the Europa jacket too




There is also a waxed shinki version. I was told it's full aniline and not teacore so it's different than the leather used for the Mulholland. The waxed shinki is also a little matte so I didn't like it at all.

The brown/black pony is definitely the way to go. I was initially planning a black FL Mulholland but now that I have the black vintage Mulholland then I'll opt for another D pocket cross zip in brown pony.

Yep - the Aeros are fixed, the Thedi and Field Leathers are detachable. If Lewis could do a mouton number then I would definitely get it in an Irvin shade to go with the green sheep hide in the Cyclone pattern with brown zip tape….I will test the water with them. Might have to buy an old lady's fur coat on ebay coat to supply the mouton…!

 

[Jin431]

Yep - the Aeros are fixed, the Thedi and Field Leathers are detachable. If Lewis could do a mouton number then I would definitely get it in an Irvin shade to go with the green sheep hide in the Cyclone pattern with brown zip tape….I will test the water with them. Might have to buy an old lady's on ebay coat to supply the mouton…!

Yes! Thedi makes the cool designs, I like the combination of buttons and elastic that they do. Gregs first attempt on a FL detachable collar was on my jacket so yours will come out nicer for sure. I think the collar needs to be wider so when you attach the mouton it will be more flush and lay on the shoulders better. For my next FL cross zip I'll also ask Greg to place the snaps wider so the collar is more spread out. I've been wearing mine unsnapped on the collar because I like the collar flat. If LL can't make it for you then Greg is an option since you are already a customer of his. Like with what Marc did with his CHP cross zip.

 

[Canuck Panda]

This confirms my observations from the swatches I got from Greg. Not only does the teacore swatch feel lighter, it actually is lighter.

View attachment 355970

It doesn't retain creases like the full aniline, plus the creases are less pronounced.

View attachment 355971

It would be nice if we could have the best of both worlds: full aniline brown leather with a black overdye (like Aero's blackened brown Vicenza)

Or something like this full aniline pony but with a black topcoat.

View attachment 355972

is this a custom dye job by Greg? Great finish! Right between the chocolate and mid brown Shinki, almost cordovan burgundy. Very nice.

 

[Marc mndt]

is this a custom dye job by Greg? Great finish! Right between the chocolate and mid brown Shinki, almost cordovan burgundy. Very nice.

It's his standard pony Shinki. It indeed has some burgundy under tones. I like it a lot, both the color and the temper. It has some slight pull up too.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Marc mndt Can't wait to see this one! ^^^

 

[Caber]

It's his standard pony Shinki. It indeed has some burgundy under tones. I like it a lot, both the color and the temper. It has some slight pull up too.

I want this color too. Supper nice !!

is mr. Greg answering emails any more? I’ve sent him one and still no reply.

 

[MrProper]

I want this color too. Supper nice !!

is mr. Greg answering emails any more? I’ve sent him one and still no reply.

The best is to write to him on Instagram. Greg reads that and responds as well.

 

[Caber]

The best is to write to him on Instagram. Greg reads that and responds as well.

Well that is an Issue because I don’t have Instagram. Or any social media unless you consider this social media.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

This confirms my observations from the swatches I got from Greg. Not only does the teacore swatch feel lighter, it actually is lighter.

View attachment 355970

It doesn't retain creases like the full aniline, plus the creases are less pronounced.

View attachment 355971

It would be nice if we could have the best of both worlds: full aniline brown leather with a black overdye (like Aero's blackened brown Vicenza)

Or something like this full aniline pony but with a black topcoat.

View attachment 355972

Although I dont have his aniline shinki for comparison, I do have a few schott 100 series which is naked cow aniline. I would agree with all you said.

The teacore is very top coat heavy and rigid but not in cxl kind of way. It moves and drapes, but doesnt hold form. One day after I would say about 100 hours wear and getting wet a couple times, i noticed a big change. It got very soft, creases started holding better. It will never be as deep as aniline because the leather is much thinner. My 118 is the king of creases even with just few wears because it is gooey and thick and deep. Almost like memory foam mattress lol. I think it's going to take several hundred hours of wear to have brown peek through. No doubt this is a light weight leather. It's good for me in Los Angeles. But i would only recommend for a racer style or just overall light weight jacket. I would pick something else if I was doing a vintage repro, biker jacket, etc.

 

[Jin431]

It's his standard pony Shinki. It indeed has some burgundy under tones. I like it a lot, both the color and the temper. It has some slight pull up too.

Can't wait to see this new jacket. This might be the first FL button up so this will be cool to see! Greg will also reserve some brown pony for me for the upcoming cross zip project, he told me maybe late November completion if the leather gets delivered on time so I should get it by December or maybe January or
After if Greg gets too busy or there are delays with leather delivery.

Well that is an Issue because I don’t have Instagram. Or any social media unless you consider this social media.

Agreed, Instagram might be the best way to go but since you don't have one maybe try calling him? Hope his email has FaceTime so it's not so expensive

Although I dont have his aniline shinki for comparison, I do have a few schott 100 series which is naked cow aniline. I would agree with all you said.

The teacore is very top coat heavy and rigid but not in cxl kind of way. It moves and drapes, but doesnt hold form. One day after I would say about 100 hours wear and getting wet a couple times, i noticed a big change. It got very soft, creases started holding better. It will never be as deep as aniline because the leather is much thinner. My 118 is the king of creases even with just few wears because it is gooey and thick and deep. Almost like memory foam mattress lol. I think it's going to take several hundred hours of wear to have brown peek through. No doubt this is a light weight leather. It's good for me in Los Angeles. But i would only recommend for a racer style or just overall light weight jacket. I would pick something else if I was doing a vintage repro, biker jacket, etc.

Yep pretty much sums up the difference between the black teacore vs full aniline shinki.

 

[diabel]

So what’s the current wait time for a jacket?

 

[jeo]

12 months. I just secured a spot in queue. Plenty of time to figure out what I want.