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Field Leathers

Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I prefer the zippers now. I know people have had issues with them but the ones I've had work fine
it needs the extra attention but it does feel a bit more secure once done correctly



Modified J24 black teacore shinki. Did not love the hide at first sight/wear like I did the black aniline but this has gotten better with wear and I've grown to appreciate it more.

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Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Hey Jin, what's your ptp on that vs your actual chest size. I'm trying to figure out how much ease to allow for on my Manhattan. I like your fit on this one. Not too tight, not too loose, just about goldilocks right.
about 37.5 chest relaxed. I requested 20.5" pit to pit and then it stretched out to almost 21" over time. I kept the same chest measurement for my upcoming brown cross zip even with the thicker lining, the pony has some give to so it should expand with wear. what hide will you go for? hope you get yours soon.
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

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2,286
about 37.5 chest relaxed. I requested 20.5" pit to pit and then it stretched out to almost 21" over time. I kept the same chest measurement for my upcoming brown cross zip even with the thicker lining, the pony has some give to so it should expand with wear. what hide will you go for? hope you get yours soon.
ah nice. Think I was on the same course. I'm leaning towards 22.50-22.75 ptp with 41 chest, so it's about the same 4 to 4.5 inch ease. Without gussets, I think this is my sweet spot although I can go down to 22 if it's a really pliable leather. I'm debating on the shoulders because I'm most likely going with some sort of padded design, but I want it to have a nice curve and not the 1980s shoulder pad look. So I'm guessing I need bigger shoulders so it rounds off or maybe slimmer so there's a clean break between the top of the shoulder and the outside shoulder? Don't know, need to talk to Greg about it.

Right now on paper, I'm going with black aniline, thickest stuff he has. My 613sh fills the shinier cross zip slot, so looking for more of a matte finish. There's a slight chance I go nuts and go brown pony. I sold my natural cxl ridley and thinking about selling my thedi padded racer, so in that case I'd be missing a brown jacket slot. So we'll see. In some ways I'm glad I have time (at least another 7-8 months unless he really starts cranking them out). I'm probably going to change my mind 10 more times, but I'm fairly certain on Dpocket, padded, detachable mutton collar for sure. I think : )
 

Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
ah nice. Think I was on the same course. I'm leaning towards 22.50-22.75 ptp with 41 chest, so it's about the same 4 to 4.5 inch ease. Without gussets, I think this is my sweet spot although I can go down to 22 if it's a really pliable leather. I'm debating on the shoulders because I'm most likely going with some sort of padded design, but I want it to have a nice curve and not the 1980s shoulder pad look. So I'm guessing I need bigger shoulders so it rounds off or maybe slimmer so there's a clean break between the top of the shoulder and the outside shoulder? Don't know, need to talk to Greg about it.

Right now on paper, I'm going with black aniline, thickest stuff he has. My 613sh fills the shinier cross zip slot, so looking for more of a matte finish. There's a slight chance I go nuts and go brown pony. I sold my natural cxl ridley and thinking about selling my thedi padded racer, so in that case I'd be missing a brown jacket slot. So we'll see. In some ways I'm glad I have time (at least another 7-8 months unless he really starts cranking them out). I'm probably going to change my mind 10 more times, but I'm fairly certain on Dpocket, padded, detachable mutton collar for sure. I think : )

yep, learned that from you to just keep it to 3-4" ease for measurements and it's only ever made my custom jackets fit better so thanks for that. maybe stick to your ideal numbers and let it expand naturally to keep it trim. hmm what about look at the padded j82 as a template, that looks well proportioned and a proven design already

that's smart just to keep it different and the black aniline gets glossier with wear like how Marc's jacket has proven so it's bound to only look better with time. brown pony is awesome and you can't go wrong with it too. yep that's true, when the new FL cross zip line up comes out maybe you'll change your mind more lol that's a good back bone for the jacket though so nothing wrong sticking with it
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

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2,286
yep, learned that from you to just keep it to 3-4" ease for measurements and it's only ever made my custom jackets fit better so thanks for that. maybe stick to your ideal numbers and let it expand naturally to keep it trim. hmm what about look at the padded j82 as a template, that looks well proportioned and a proven design already

that's smart just to keep it different and the black aniline gets glossier with wear like how Marc's jacket has proven so it's bound to only look better with time. brown pony is awesome and you can't go wrong with it too. yep that's true, when the new FL cross zip line up comes out maybe you'll change your mind more lol that's a good back bone for the jacket though so nothing wrong sticking with it
yep, J82 is the reference. Honestly, I'd buy that one on classifieds, but I don't like the action back. So this will basically be j82, straight back, little less padding, play around with the d pocket design (maybe a snap open instead of zipper), etc.
 

Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Insane. Wow.
thanks brother. it will be outfitted with studs so I can use my black and brown mouton collars from my other jacket.

yep, J82 is the reference. Honestly, I'd buy that one on classifieds, but I don't like the action back. So this will basically be j82, straight back, little less padding, play around with the d pocket design (maybe a snap open instead of zipper), etc.

hmm how about the shoulders on the padded Cals minus the western yoke and shoulder gussets. Greg can make you underarm gussets like the one on the Mulholland
 

Tom71

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2,680
Location
Europe
I hope so, it looks the part. I've grown to like these zippers a lot


Paging @Tom71 the black pony looks killer


Haha! Thank you! It does. Jacket is packed up and ready to ship any minute now, so I will be able to see for real this side of the year´s end.

I have to say, if it looks and fits anywhere near what you and Greg came up with as of lately, I´d be more than happy!
 

Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Haha! Thank you! It does. Jacket is packed up and ready to ship any minute now, so I will be able to see for real this side of the year´s end.

I have to say, if it looks and fits anywhere near what you and Greg came up with as of lately, I´d be more than happy!
sweet, I'm praying you get yours before Christmas Day as that would be the perfect holiday treat. the black pony looks so nice, makes me want to oil my black aniline jacket lol fingers crossed it would fit as how you want it to but you are a repeat FL customer so I'm sure you two have talked about how you want this project to fit compared to the previous Route 66 custom so I have very high hopes for this one!
 

dlite90

Familiar Face
Messages
93
A lot of the photos on Greg’s timeline are really beautiful and interesting; apart from the $1500 jacket porn they give you a glimpse into the process of making a product the old-school way. I wish he kept an imgur or something besides Instagram where he could dump more photos.
 

Tom71

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2,680
Location
Europe
sweet, I'm praying you get yours before Christmas Day as that would be the perfect holiday treat. the black pony looks so nice, makes me want to oil my black aniline jacket lol fingers crossed it would fit as how you want it to but you are a repeat FL customer so I'm sure you two have talked about how you want this project to fit compared to the previous Route 66 custom so I have very high hopes for this one!

I got a delivery notice from DHL this second. Insane! The jacket was only picked up day before yesterday, and I paid customs/handling this morning. With the brand-new Addict, I´ve got a real problem which one to take to the in-laws for Christmas (and don´t tell me, take both; my wife thinks I´ve got only one black leather jacket...:)).
 

TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

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2,286
I got a delivery notice from DHL this second. Insane! The jacket was only picked up day before yesterday, and I paid customs/handling this morning. With the brand-new Addict, I´ve got a real problem which one to take to the in-laws for Christmas (and don´t tell me, take both; my wife thinks I´ve got only one black leather jacket...:)).
LOL. I told my wife my "jacket" changes color slightly depending on the light, inside/outside, etc. Worked a couple times.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I got a delivery notice from DHL this second. Insane! The jacket was only picked up day before yesterday, and I paid customs/handling this morning. With the brand-new Addict, I´ve got a real problem which one to take to the in-laws for Christmas (and don´t tell me, take both; my wife thinks I´ve got only one black leather jacket...:)).
wowowoww! good on you! can't wait to see how that wears! congrats on another wonderful piece! your wife needs an FL jacket of her own lol the man himself told me he will soon be offering them for the ladies
 

Jin431

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2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
Successfully and safely taken receipt of my 4th FL jacket and this new brown pony aviator/MC cross zip has become an instant favorite. I asked Greg to make this slightly longer in the body compared to my modified black Manhattan J24. Also Greg made the front drop slightly curved to make it more rounded on the front bottom hem. The fit is quite trim (and flattering if I do say so myself lol) but I'm sure it will stretch with wear. Greg really has my fit dialed in so I've nothing but good things to say about how the jacket looks and wears.

The leather used is brown pony shinki which is very supple (like Horween Vermont) yet very substantial (similar to full aniline shinki). The hide used for my jacket is pretty smooth grained and what seems to be an almost flawless hide. The leather is not as stiff as the full aniline shinki and it also has a glossy finish to complete the look. The color is a medium brown, it bruises easily and easy to scratch. I grazed the right back shoulder on a door frame and it turned to a dark brown shade right away.

Went for a wine red diamond quilted lining and it feels/looks very class indeed, it kept me warm with 40F temp this morning while just wearing a t shirt underneath. Opted for red flannel lining for the sleeve and pocket bag lining and it's so comfy against the skin and quite smooth to put on and remove so I'm all for it and my next FL will surely have a full flannel lining.

Greg used a size 8 Talon hookless main zipper with grommets, it's not the easiest to use but it feels very robust and it's so much nicer than the regular sunburst box talon #5s that he uses.

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