Fedora Lounge Features - Report from Aero Leather Trade Week - By Craig Brown

[Fedora Lounge Features]

Fedora Lounge Features - Report from Aero Leather Trade Week
By Craig Brown

The prospect of the Aero’s first trade in its 30 year history, launching a slew of new designs, has caused fans of their jackets to get back in touch with their inner child – specifically, the way they felt the night before Christmas. In a niche sector where even a new type of hide is a talking point, the simultaneous launch of 16 new designs from Aero is pretty much unprecedented. The suspense has been killing me too, so a chance to preview Aero’s new treasures at their Galashiels HQ is like getting invited to Santa's grotto and allowed to have a good old rummage.

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But I'm not alone. Invited? Yes. Unfettered access? Pretty much.

But allowed to descend into leather-bound mania? Sadly, no. Aero's founder, Ken Calder, is sitting behind his desk in the newly decorated sale room, talking serious business with traders in heavily cuffed jeans . Some have travelled from as far as Japan to see what’s in the offing. Cutting a dash in a Harris wool jumper, a leather waistcoat (more of which later), houndstooth trousers and a baker's boy cap, Ken occasionally breaks off to discuss the details of a jacket with Hiro from Aero Japan, advise a passing staff member, or check his dog Cally is happy. She is.

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The pair of shop dummies standing guard behind him in the latest jackets look pretty jaunty too. At the opposite side of the room, another mannequin swaddled in Aero's new-design Irvin, could almost be sweating slightly.

The new designs hang tantalisingly from a double rack, with little white tags bearing their names.
Holly, Ken's daughter and integral part of the Aero machine, appears at my side: "They’re all there, help yourself, any questions, just ask.”
I do believe my hands are shaking slightly, but here goes...

So, first impressions of the collection: Ken seems to have sought inspiration in the 1920s and 30s. Many would not look out of place on the set of Boardwalk Empire , with an emphasis on period details such as detachable belts, elasticated side gussets, hookless zips, moleskin as standard on handwarmer pockets. There’s a mix of fabrics and leathers, and restyled buckles, which will perhaps end the perennial complaint about slipping cinch straps.

The Aeromarine
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Of all the new designs, the Aeromarine has attracted the most attention online so far: up until now the model has been pretty much the preserve of Japanese jacket makers, putting it out of the price range of many western buyers. Aero’s version is striking with its shawl collar and proto-A-1 styling. Close fitting with high armholes and low-slung waist adjusters that give it a straight-up-and-down feel, it’s based on a 1920s jacket that has sat in the factory archive for some 15 years. Early plans for this style to include a zip have been shelved for now, but might be revived in future.

Aeromarine in "battered brown horsehide"
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Aero Hollywood
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Beyond it’s ‘what’s that?’ styling, the Aeromarine hide choices also stand out - not least the shank tanned cream horsehide, a soft, buttery leather, and the enigmatic ‘battered brown horsehide’, similar to oil pull in texture, but with a strong grain, by dint of the light base and dark top coat, that changes the patina with every crease. The two hides give very different emphasis to the character of the basic jacket, the cream lends a slightly ‘dressy’ feel, while the ‘battered brown’ has a more utilitarian look. You pays your money, you make your choice. The cream horsehide makes a second appearance for the Hollywood. A lighter, slim version of the ubiquitous 30s Half-Belt, this one won’t stand up by itself when you take it out of the box.

the Original Hercules
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Another model that has loitered in Aero’s archives for years is the Original Hercules. Unlike its perennially popular brother, the Original Hercules is a short, neat jacket, lacking the more striking elements such as the front cording and distinctive curved pocket flaps. Lined in cord and with moleskin in the sleeves, the jacket has a more subtle styling: cinch belts virtually set on the hips, triple stitching on the seams, a throat latch, hookless zip and a three panel back.

Thunder Bay
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The third recreation of a vintage design is the Thunder Bay. A model that appeared on the sale page late last year, it’s based on Ken’s own jacket, which was worn and repaired until it could take no more and then retired to Aero’s archives. Despite having examined this one on my laptop since it first debuted, in the flesh, so to speak, the Thunder Bay is even more impressive in reality: something akin to a biker-style jacket with a thick shearling and mouton collar (the rust on black is a particularly nice combo), the cord lining, stud cuffs and belted waist effectively seal out the elements.

 

[Fedora Lounge Features]

the Dustbowl
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As it name suggests, the Dustbowl model takes its lead from the styles of the 1930s: a clean style, its slim fit and multi-panelled, it shares a similar back and the triple stitching with the Original Hercules, but the cinch belts sit on the waist, lending a different accent to the overall look.

Sunburst
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One of the most interesting pieces among the shorter jackets is that of the Sunburst. This also finds its look in the Depression era, with a sloping front and slim fit similar to that of its Half-Belt relative, but it’s the back that catches eye: a set of six panels radiating out of the half-belt, hence its solar-inspired name. Though available in the usual spectrum of hides and colours, the particular version on show in the factory was made from a rather characterful mid-weight grained russett goatskin.

The Hudson
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Many of the jackets tend towards Half-Belt lengths, but there are several that fall into longer styles, with lengths that offers greater protection from the elements. The Hudson is an interesting combination of details: corded pockets similar to that of Aero’s 1950s Flight Jacket, vertically-slashed map pockets, storm cuffs and a thick mouton collar. This is a heavy duty jacket - the act of pulling on the cordovan horse version in the showroom was a work-out for the shoulders - but it’s the detachable belt that draws the eye. Fitted in two removable separate sections and attached by buttons either side of the false half-belt at the back, elasticated inserts in the side panels help hold the jacket’s ‘pulled-in’ shape.
A second version of the Hudson, the Northeaster, presents a cleaner front panel, losing the mouton collar, but adding pockets similar to Aero’s Long Half Belt, buttoned cuffs, and retaining the two-section belt and elasticated waist inserts. A simpler look but still a hefty hunk of hide.

The Mulligan
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The third design in this category, the Mulligan, appears to show the final outcome of pre-production models that appeared on the sale page last month. Closer to the Long Half Belt and Teamster in length (obviously the high buttoned front is a nod to the latter, though this is a resolutely 20s design, inspired by the utilitarian jackets worn by labourers), its most distinctive feature is the pair of corded rectangular hip pockets fitted with large flaps, which can be tucked comfortably away, giving the jacket a cleaner look.

The Cropduster
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The majority of the designs I saw were brand new, but there are a number of blasts from the past and redesigns of current models too.
The original Cropduster design hails from the mid-80s, and ran into the mid-90s before the overwhelming popularity of the Half-Belt and Highwayman edged it out. According to Ken, the serendipitous return of an original model to Aero has prompted its re-appearance. Pitched somewhere between the 1950s Half-Belt and its nemesis the Highwayman, the Cropduster sports a similar front to the Hudson: two slashed map pockets on the chest, simple 30s Half-Belt pockets, but also retaining the elasticated inserts, giving it a more waisted appearance - something that may well appeal to those who are looking for an alternative to the ‘boxy’ shape of the Highwayman. As part of the style’s revival, it comes with the original tweed lining as standard. Tweed makes another appearance with the return of the Pioneer. Released last year, it made a bit of a splash as it was available only in the exotic kudu hide. Effectively a 1940s half-belt, with a cut pitched closer to its more generously-proportioned 50s cousin, the kudu has been abandoned because, according to Ken, the heavy scarring of the hide resulted in excessive and uneconomical wastage.

Late WWII Irvin
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Straddling the categories of redesign and new model is the Late World War II Irvin. It appeared on the Aero site some months back, and as promised sees the sins of previous models wiped away: the arms are longer and tapered with a fuller armhole, while the previously ironed, teddy bear-ish shearling has been replaced with a curly coat. As you’d expect, throwing it on for even just a few minutes indoors to test the fit is enough to have you reaching for a glass of water.

The Speedway
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Elsewhere Aero’s previous work with the bigger brands has now found its way into its own collection: the Speedway was a model first produced for Levi’s Vintage label. Again, a very simple, neat-fitting 30s style jacket, with a front similar to the Original Hercules and a Half-Belt back with split main panel. The blue-black, finely-grained goat hide version at the showroom was particularly eye-catching, and apparently was the most popular of the designs among Aero’s female staff.

Wool & Leather Half-Belt Type I



Wool & Leather Type II
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Another revival from Aero’s archives are the wool and leather Half-Belts. Brought back by popular demand, two very distinct models have been produced: the Type I is redolent of the Hercules front, with the seams where the cloth and leather meet forming the heavy cording found on its all-leather cousin, while the Type II is a simpler version, taking its cue from the Pioneer.

Two-tone Dustbowl
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Two-tone jackets seem to be enjoying a resurgence in Aero’s range. The evolution of the two-tone Dustbowl has almost taken place in public, with multiple versions appearing on its sale pages. The style has finally settled, with the colour dominating the body, framed by the darker leather - the version on show used cherry horsehide, a colour not seen often, but an effective contrast to the black. It should prove an interesting addition to Aero’s shorter jackets, and possibly appeal to those who love the Half-Belt style but hitherto haven’t been able justify adding to their collection.

The Shackleton
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A final eyecatcher is perhaps the most un-Aero of the collection: the Shackleton. Unusual in that it reaches back to the Edwardian period for inspiration, it’s based on the waistcoats worn by members of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s expedition to the Antarctic. This antique leather-fronted garment has apparently been the hit of the show so far and is resolutely vintage and warm , thanks to a heavy cotton ticking lining, backed with heavy Harris tweed. The one concession to modernity is that the pockets are just deep enough to stick your mobile phone in.


Personal favourites?
Well, there’s a pre-production Dustbowl currently hanging in from the door in my bedroom - always difficult to leave Aero’s HQ empty-handed - and I’d be torn between the Hudson and Irvin as a winter weather jacket, while the Sunburst has a real period feel. The Shackleton deserves an honorary mention: it reclaims the waistcoat from mere decoration and returns its utility status.

So there you have it. When they’re unleashed on the waiting public later this week, the designs will undoubtedly be picked over and unpicked with a level of interest and critical comment normally reserved for the outfits worn by stars at the Oscars. Maybe even Daniel Craig will make a move to a Cropduster on his next red carpet.

 

[Fedora Lounge Features]

In this Q&A session with our reporter Craig Brown, Aero founder Ken Calder discusses the new collection, his working methods and what next for the company.

Q: You're releasing 16 designs all at once. Did you always intend there to be this many? Where did you start?

A. One or two, I've been wanting to do for a long time. The Aeromarine, we've had here for a while - it was looked at a couple of times in the past, but for whatever reason it didn't happen. Of the two other replicas, the Original Hercules is my own jacket bought in Flip of Hollywood in Glasgow in 1984. I gave it to one of the girls in the factory to fix once, they made a complete mess of it, and I never wore it since. The other is a jacket is the Thunder Bay, which I've worn every winter for the past 20-odd years. They had been in my head since before I retired, so this was the perfect opportunity to do them.
The Irvin should have been redone some time ago as well, so now was the time to do it. We've had John Lever (jacket collector and enthusiast who helped Aero design their now-ended Radjacke ) send sleeve patterns to help with the redesign, that was the first priority. The second was replacing the sheep skin because it just wasn't right.

Q: Was there an overriding concept or theme in the collection? The designs seem to lean heavily on the 1920s and 1930s.

A: Yeah, to be honest I've got such an archive in my head. I've always had the ability to retain picture detail/ I've always like the 30s cuts, and I felt the 20s was an era that hadn't really been touched, that pre-zipper or early design of zipper. In the past, every time we tried to get hookless zippers, we couldn't get them because of exclusive deals elsewhere or whatever. And that's a big part on the fitting of those styles, the zipper must be right, so we kind of worked on that era this time. But also we returned to our cloth and wool jackets, something that we did 20 years ago but they kind of got forgotten in the mad rush for horsehide during the 1990s, a lot old styles got lost for that reason. These were things that were fairly easy to bring back, they needed a bit of tuning but nothing drastic.

Q: The two-tone Dustbowl has had quite a public development, with different takes a colours appearing on the sale site. How difficult was it to get the right balance?

A: Two of the lads here, Greig and Murray, were keen on it. Murray was cutting, Greig machining, and between the two of them they were the driving force for the two-tone. We were splitting panels a lot, again looking for the right 20s look, but the starting point was the Original Hercules.

Q: Is it fair to say that you've got a Boardwalk Empire feel going?

A: *laughs* Yes, I'd say that's fair enough.

Q: When designing from scratch, what sort of process do you go through? What are the steps to a finished jacket?

A: I work in a very strange way, but I've always worked in this fashion. I have to have my material first. That's my starting point because I've found it's no good designing something and then looking for the right cloth or leather to make it. Usually my inspiration would come on the way to the factory om the morning. I'd arrive and I'd start cutting bits of something, probably the front, then I'd be picking bits for the back, building it up section by section.
In the case of the Sunburst design, I was making a jacket for my wife Lydia and I had started with the cuff. Whereas most people would make the cuff and attach it to just a scrap of leather, I cut a whole sleeve. I looked at this and thought, 'That's nice'. From there I developed the sunburst back and then the front came, and that was a jacket in a day. The best ones are done in the day.
We then had a meeting with everybody discussing the prototypes and some people said of the Sunburst 'I'd like that one if it had another of the jackets' cuff', so the original cuff ended up with another design. With the final Sunburst design, the back we ended up is virtually identical to the one I made for Lydia originally. It's actually very simple - you could work it out with a geometry set and a pencil. The pockets came from a customer request. They asked why we never used a more straight-across pocket, so when we had that meeting to discuss the Sunburst, somebody suggested we use it. So from initial prototype to finished design, there was two samples before I got it.

Q: How long did it take to get the Aeromarine right?

A: With the Aeromarine, there were three test samples before I made one, then I made another, but then Julie wanted to make it with a different leather and lining, so that was six - the fifth and sixth were right. That's quite a few. But it was the Dustbowl that had more samples than any, because we just kept changing the panel configuration or changing the cuff, we would put little gussets in the back, or we would look at how much top-stitching there was, especially across the yoke, and then we'd talk about it, which version worked. We're all in this together, everyone can chip in. It's a democracy here, everyone can have a say.

Q: The Shackleton waistcoat's a bit of a departure for you, isn't it?

A: I think that's my favourite piece of the collection. I was watching the telly drama Mr Selfridge, and in one episode Ernest Shackleton appears in the shop. He was wearing a waistcoat like this *points at self* under his suit and I thought "Bloody hell, that's beautiful". So I started searching on Google for Shackleton images and I came up with a couple of crew members wearing a similar waistcoat - this was last Saturday by the way. So I came down the next day, Greig was in, and we put the first one together with tartan on the back. It didn't really work, but we were dead chuffed because we'd knocked the first design together in about an hour-and-a-half.

Q: You've moved away from doing a lot of individual modifications, why is that?

A: People think that every part of a jacket is interchangeable. They're not. Swapping Cafe Racer collars with standard collars is a huge job. Trying to put styling from a 30s cut into a 50s one is impossible, and the amount personalisation we've been asked to do is mental.

Q: Given the amount of work and energy it's taken to produce this collection, and that you came out of retirement in the Highlands to do this, how does it feel to be at the helm of Aero again?

A: The first three months were absolute hell and I hated every minute of it. In the last three months, the administration-side have been working well and not involving me, which is great as it's allowed me to spend much more time with the product and I'm much happier. I'm really pleased with way things are running, which means we're going back home this year and we're leaving a great team behind. The factory now is more fun than any I've had since I was 22, when I had my factory in London. The team here is the best we've had ever. In two months time we will probably have double the production compared with the 50, 60 jackets that were being made when we stepped back in to save the company last year.

 

[Fanch]

Craig, that is a brilliant write up . You have outdone yourself on this one. You are a journalist par excellence! :thumb:

 

[schitzo]

was that all 16 new styles? I lost count, I'm so tired. If so a Pioneer is still top of my list. Good work Sloane. And now I can sleep! Night all

 

[ButteMT61]

Wow, simply amazing! Nicely done Craig, So much to take in, but two pop out for me - Two-tone Dustbowl and Wool & Leather Type II. But the Mulligan and vest are cool too. lol Off to see what I can sell now...thanks for posting it all up! Super crazy times for Aero! And that "cherry" HH is dee-lish!

 

[Sloan1874]

Craig, that is a brilliant write up . You have outdone yourself on this one. You are a journalist par excellence! :thumb:

Thank you! You're very kind. I hope everybody enjoys it as much as I did 'researching' it. I think the only model not pictured is the Pioneer, Schitzo - I have no idea why, as Holly and I spent taking photos.[huh] Was very taken with the two-tones, Butte, they have a real touch of Hollywood style about them. Mind you, I think my pre-prod Dustbowl is the closest I think I'll get to your Ventura in terms of leather.

 

[ButteMT61]

I was just going to ask - I reloaded it twice to make sure. Did it change from the earlier models we saw? (Pioneer)

 

[bretron]

Well done!!! I love the new styles!

 

[jlanderson]

Stunningly beautiful! Love the Two-Tone Dustbowl and the Aeromarine, in addition to the Shackleton -- the ginger tweed backing just makes the model in the photos pop.

One question to The Scotsman's reporter on the scene: You said the Marine is cut close and has high armholes ... is it a jacket to be worn solo or with a medium weight pullover. And just how "high cut" is that arm scythe?

And a note to the admins, but when you click any of the jacket hyperlinks to see a larger photo, the following error message page displays: Invalid Album specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator.

Thanks to EVERYONE for putting this together!

 

[Davy Crockett]

Mmmm!

 

[Sloan1874]

I was just going to ask - I reloaded it twice to make sure. Did it change from the earlier models we saw? (Pioneer)

Basically the same fit, just in a different hide.

 

[jlanderson]

And that "cherry" HH is dee-lish!

The cherry hide is a thing of beauty. I've got what is likely the last HG5 that Aero made in cherry FQHH and lined in the Logan tartan from Locharron. Whenever I wear it, people comment on the hide and the various hues it seems take on in varying shades of light.

 

[Sloan1874]

Stunningly beautiful! Love the Two-Tone Dustbowl and the Aeromarine, in addition to the Shackleton -- the ginger tweed backing just makes the model in the photos pop.

One question to The Scotsman's reporter on the scene: You said the Marine is cut close and has high armholes ... is it a jacket to be worn solo or with a medium weight pullover. And just how "high cut" is that arm scythe?

And a note to the admins, but when you click any of the jacket hyperlinks to see a larger photo, the following error message page displays: Invalid Album specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator.

Thanks to EVERYONE for putting this together!

You could get away with a medium sweater - though I think MajorMajor sized down to get a very tight fit - the armholes won't saw at you. To my eyes its not as slim as the 20s HB, but I think you'd struggle to get a thick sweater under it, not least because it sits tight on the waist. The cream horse is a really soft, btw, and has a bit of drape going on. The battered brown horse (such an apt name from a Scottish firm) has an amazing patina though, very different from the oil pull, with a depth of colour.

 

[nabottle]

They all look great, but I think The Shackleton is amazing! I must have one.

 

[Bunyip]

Excellent write up. I have been very keen on seeing the new offerings. Some interesting new designs.....that waistcoat is a cracker. Cant imagine wearing it, but its very very nice, the leather and wool combos appeal too...they are all very nice. Well done guys, and thanks for the heads up.

 

[jlanderson]

Craig, thank you. This week you've had the job every leather-loving journalist would have sold his soul for.

 

[jlanderson]

The battered brown horse (such an apt name from a Scottish firm) has an amazing patina though, very different from the oil pull, with a depth of colour.

Or a great name for a pub in Galashiels ... The Battered Brown Horse!

 

[Carrie @ Thurston Bros.]

Thank you so much for the article and photos Craig!

Aero's new styles are absolutely amazing; Ken and the entire Aero staff truly outdid themselves in putting all of these designs together!

We at Insurrection/Thurston Bros. look forward to selling, AND wearing!!!, each and every new Aero design!

 

[Sloan1874]

I'm hugging my memento as I type. Will post pics tomorrow...