Fedora Lounge Features - Report from Aero Leather Trade Week - By Craig Brown

[ButteMT61]

Craig, these retro zips drive me mad! They look awesome, but thank gawd I don't zip up much
That looks like I might be the same hide as my Ventura. Impossible to photograph, but the nicest hide I've seen in the weight range.
The photos make it appear drab, but it's not. I was sold when I saw the Himel at Self Edge. Congrats!!

 

[Sir Jacket]

Love the jacket, Sloan, especially the collar. Some people would say those sleeves are about right (maybe and inch shorter at the most). SJ

 

[wdw]

Great looking jacket, Sloan. Definitely a much better set of pics which shows it off at its finest. The tartan cuff lining is a nice touch. Being able to layer is handy too, so plenty of use from it throughout the year (until the Irvin comes ).

 

[Sloan1874]

My other half, what AL would describe as a "private wardrobist" - ie she says "You're wearing that, are you?", loves the jacket too (which always helps). As you say, the hide's a killer to photo, but in the flesh its a killer full stop.

 

[Fanch]

My other half, what AL would describe as a "private wardrobist" - ie she says "You're wearing that, are you?", loves the jacket too (which always helps). As you say, the hide's a killer to photo, but in the flesh its a killer full stop.

All too frequently pictures fall short of the mark in illustrating the look and feel, as evidenced by your new DB and Buttes's GW. I have a feeling that the hides used to make your jacket and Butte's might have somewhat limited supply/availability due to high demand that tends to generate higher prices. I suspect that the same would be true about the "hookless" grommet zipper on your jacket as well. I think that what I am trying to say is that there are number of factors that make your new Dustbowl a unique museum piece (and Butte's GW), none of which factors come cheap.

 

[ButteMT61]

Right on Fanch. Not cheap. There's lots of cheap options out there. Doing this sort of work (as with GW, ELC, McCoys, etc) comes with a tag. It's not just fashion markup either. RRL charges more for their generic, made in China A-2. I'll take one from our favored makers anyway. Guys you can have a conversation with, or even drop by to see. Folks that post at 4AM to answer questions. lol

 

[Sloan1874]

It's all in the little details: the tartan in cuffs, the grommets and stitching on the zip, the top stitching - particularly love the way the fabric goes from edge-to-edge of the jacket. There's a real overall period feel to it. Ken obviously was going to pains when he made this.

 

[ButteMT61]

It's all in the little details: the tartan in cuffs, the grommets and stitching on the zip, the top stitching - particularly love the way the fabric goes from edge-to-edge of the jacket. There's a real overall period feel to it. Ken obviously was going to pains when he made this.

Funny thing the details. I pulled or a USWings to compare. Don't laugh. I also grabbed a Schott. Stitching on the mechanized jackets is perfectly straight. Most of my GW and Aero are too - but there's enough imperfection to let your know a human made it, and I love that! The pics of the details say it all. When I grab the Ventura or HBD, I feel like it's not a new jacket. They look like something from the past. I paying of that too. Like the old Sears: Good, Better, and Best! Get what's best for you.

 

[Fanch]

Butte, your point is well taken. What separates a truly custom made, museum quality garment from one made with CNC machinery would be the human factor. There is always that ever so slight imperfection to show that it was made with human hands.

 

[jlanderson]

Funny thing the details. I pulled or a USWings to compare. Don't laugh. I also grabbed a Schott. Stitching on the mechanized jackets is perfectly straight. Most of my GW and Aero are too - but there's enough imperfection to let your know a human made it, and I love that! The pics of the details say it all. When I grab the Ventura or HBD, I feel like it's not a new jacket. They look like something from the past. I paying of that too. Like the old Sears: Good, Better, and Best! Get what's best for you.

Which is why I'm glad I stumbled across this site a couple of years ago, gleaning so much from guys who've been addicted to this a lot longer than I have.

 

[ButteMT61]

Which is why I'm glad I stumbled across this site a couple of years ago, gleaning so much from guys who've been addicted to this a lot longer than I have.

When I started, I thought a $300 jacket was INSANITY! You can't really explain this to people. It's something you learn (or it doesn't matter to you) and appreciate. I would never try to convince someone to spend $1200-$1500 or more on a jacket. They have to get there on their own. Once you arrive, you get it. I can see from pics now - even bad pics the differences in quality of design, build, and materials. Lots of folks here can too, I'm but one barely better than amateur jacket lover. New jackets sure beats the drama we've had over the last 18 months or so. Hoping many more folks will be posting new photos in the coming weeks/months.

 

[jlanderson]

When I started, I thought a $300 jacket was INSANITY! You can't really explain this to people. It's something you learn (or it doesn't matter to you) and appreciate. I would never try to convince someone to spend $1200-$1500 or more on a jacket. They have to get there on their own. Once you arrive, you get it. I can see from pics now - even bad pics the differences in quality of design, build, and materials. Lots of folks here can too, I'm but one barely better than amateur jacket lover. New jackets sure beats the drama we've had over the last 18 months or so. Hoping many more folks will be posting new photos in the coming weeks/months.

People at the office say how nice my expanding collection is, but no way would I tell anyone the cost! I just smile and say thanks. Nobody understands except other addicts. I've gotten a LOT of custom-made tweed suits (like two closets full) from Peter King at Bookster in England ... same thing.

I'm like you, I just like dealing with the folks who actually design and make what I'm getting. There's something special about that.

 

[Fanch]

Once you arrive, you get it. I can see from pics now - even bad pics the differences in quality of design, build, and materials. Lots of folks here can too, I'm but one barely better than amateur jacket lover. New jackets sure beats the drama we've had over the last 18 months or so. Hoping many more folks will be posting new photos in the coming weeks/months.

Butte, you continue to hit the nail on the head in saying that if one surfs the FL long enough, one can discern the difference between excellence and mediocrity, even when viewing bad pictures.

 

[Plumbline]

Butte, your point is well taken. What separates a truly custom made, museum quality garment from one made with CNC machinery would be the human factor. There is always that ever so slight imperfection to show that it was made with human hands.

Jeez ... I thought I'd inadvertantly logged into VLJ

I don't know ANY of the mainstream repro jacket manufacturers who make their items on CNC machines .... they are cut ( by hand), sewn ( by hand) and inspected ( by hand) .......... Aero, Eastman, GW, LW, AL, Lewis etc. etc. They ALL manufacture to a VERY similar model and most have tried offshoring / outsourcing manufacture and found it didn't work very well ... all that really varies is the raw materials and the number of cutters and machinists and their skill at hand ! The designs have mostly been done ( that's why they're repro's ) so it's really down to what they want to reproduce and how authentically ?

The new Aero range certainly resonates well with the FL contingent and looks MUCH more authentic than the previous range but I have to admit I'm still a preferer of the older models ( Highwayman / 1950's H-B / Barnstormer / VDR / Bootlegger / Caifornian etc. etc. ) simple is good .... but that's why the world is a nice diverse place ... if we all liked the same things it would be pretty boring

I'm probably not the target market for the new stuff either ... but long may they continue to make exceedingly good jackets

 

[Fanch]

Well, this is a thread for Aerophiles. [huh]

 

[ButteMT61]

Yeah, you talk to Ken or John or Gary and see just how "simple" copying old designs is. And how cheap. I watched a video I think form last year showing Schott's assembly line. Certainly cranking out scores of jackets a day on an assembly line is as good as one made by hand over two days!

... all that really varies is the raw materials and the number of cutters and machinists and their skill at hand !

Might be the funniest line I've read in ages lol

 

[Sloan1874]

even when viewing bad pictures.

I know, I know, my photo was crap, but my other half was pleased as punch when everyone liked her pics of the DB. How'd I know you'd all side with her?

Oh and yeah, I understand Irvins are really easy to copy, you know...

 

[Fanch]

I know, I know, my photo was crap, but my other half was pleased as punch when everyone liked her pics of the DB. How'd I know you'd all side with her?

Oh and yeah, I understand Irvins are really easy to copy, you know...

The other half did a helluva better job than the bloke doing the self portrait. ound:

 

[Sloan1874]

She's nodding in agreement right now...

 

[Highwaymanman]

Thanks Sloan. I bought my own Aero totally blind off the 'bay and while I love the sizing I have the odd twinge regarding layering, shoulder width, upper arm circumference and all the usual mundane fears. I'm forever trying to assess my own dimensions relative to my Aero and of course the sizes others choose relative to their own frames is helpful if only to know I'm in the ballpark.

Corking jacket by the way.