Facing reality - most Vintage jackets will not fit me

[AeroFan_07]

A little over a year ago I picked up a True Vintage Sears Hercules FQHH M/C jacket from Terry Mitchell. It's a dandy old jacket, I would estimate it around 65+ years old. For the age it is also in excellent condition, only one seam that needs a little re-stitching, which I will get taken care of next month. I has not seen a lot of wear in the past year, so today I pulled it out while the sun was out and took some photos.

This is when reality set in more. It's a Size 46, and the sleeves are fine for length and overall fit. The body is not bad...then there's the Torso. Fact is, in the photos below, I had on High-Rise Duluth Trading Jeans. Still they are not as high-rise as those in the 50's would have been. I also just have a longer torso then most folks in that era did, simply put. Here are a couple photos...

As you can see above, the "belt" on the jacket is a long way above my own pants belt. It just leads to an uncomfortable front lower appearance that I personally find un-desirable. I feel sort of bad saying this as I really do appreciate the jacket!

From the back it does not look bad at all and I really like the highly detailed back on this jacket:

So maybe Aero have it in mind to re-crate such a jacket but with a somewhat longer torso? It's a difficult challenge, but overall most vintage stock fits me about like this. I have one Cal Leather that does not. Open to anyone's thoughts on this.

 

[navetsea]

did they wear it with pants with suspender in those days?

I say if your pants fits well, skip the pants belt when wearing short jacket with belt, or perhaps pants with cinchback or side adjuster on the waist

is that pants you're wearing also has double knee?, from the back I see it is a full on workpants model

 

[AeroFan_07]

So these are single knee. I have a few pair of Carhartts with double knee, too warm for anything about 10C/45F

 

[nick123]

This is true for most of us tall Or bigger folks. We don't have the luxury of being able to select from a large array of jackets. However, exceptions exist; just takes more time to find them IMO.

The moto style above is basically a non-starter though...they were made short across the board it seems.

 

[regius]

The motorcycle jackets were made to ride, so when you sit & reach for the handle bar, the short front dip will close in & won’t dig into the hip/groin. Otherwise those catalogue models all seem to wear high rise wool trousers. If you really are bothered by the “double belt line” appearance, you can always opt for the long vintage jackets. My Grais wool-lined horsehide would solve this “problem”,


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[ton312]

Yeah those true vintage 50’s-60’s era sears, penny’s and wards jackets are extremely short. I had a wonderful penny’s m/c jacket that was about 23”. Fit spot on everywhere but the length. I’m not tall, 5’11” but find most vintage jackets of this type don’t work either. I’d damn near have to wear my pants with the waist at my nipples for them to work. That said, I agree with Nick. You can find those that will work, but it’s a long game.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Sure, agreed. On my old Nighthawk 650, it was not aggressive enough of rider position to worry about the shorter front/longer back design. Certainly have had many of those, and do not want another one. Also not a big fan of much longer jackets. (Motorcycle style) The 30's and 50's Half-belts are as long as I go. So yes, a bit picky, but perhaps more just dailed in on the forms and designs I prefer. This one will probably be moving along someday soon.

 

[navetsea]

without vest they look so weird, how do they look sitting down

 

[Seb Lucas]

Period jackets are often short, that's true. Men were shorter, pants were higher, etc. There's not a pattern going that can't be made longer by a competent pattern maker and still retain the original look. Where people sometimes go wrong is adding too much or getting the proportions wrong. It's a fine line and partly subjective. I'm not keen on the shorter biker styles at all (many attempt the look, few pull it off) and I would want a utility jacket or half-belt no shorter than 26.5 to 27 inches. I'm six two.

Period utility jackets I have found in sizes 42 to 46 tend to be around 25 inches long which, when men were on average five nine, does not seem all that short.

The Harry high pants look of yore is surely more comfortable for the overweight man. I can see the attraction. I personally think it's a look that appeals only to a modest subculture and even within this group, only a proportion of guys can pull it off without looking strange.

 

[willyto]

High rise trousers is the answer(Real high rise above or around your navel) If you’re around 5’ 11” they should work.

But then you have to like the look.

 

[Monitor]

High rise trousers is the answer(Real high rise above or around your navel) If you’re around 5’ 11” they should work.

But then you have to like the look.

Yep, this.

It's not that the jackets won't fit you, they just might not fit you the way you want them to. These are motorcycle jackets that are also centered around other stuff people wore back then. You have to adapt your entire wardrobe for these to fit the 'right' way.

Besides, modern motorcycle jackets are still very short.

 

[58panheadfan]

Personally, I like the left, short "vintage" fit, relating to your body proportions (much) more

 

[navetsea]

Maybe wearing leather vest underneath to bridge the gap also to hide the pants belt is the answer

 

[Bfd70]

Yep, our tastes have changed more than our bodies. I think the vintae looks good on you.

 

[FlatCap99]

My dad has the same problem with shirts and jackets being shorter due to a longer torso. Him and I are both tall, but my height is mostly in my legs (and arms) and he has a much longer torso and shorter legs. He has a hard time finding shirts that fit, I have a hard time finding pants that fit. Have you looked into an Aero Ridley? I attached a fit pic I took that Carrie posted in one of the Thurston Vicenza threads a while back of one. Although my torso is fairly standard I too, like my jackets to cover my waist/belt area and the Ridley did that and still fit really well in the rest of the jacket without looking like it deviated from the D pocket style. I loved the jacket, but not sure if I can pull off the D Pocket biker jacket full time

 

[Seb Lucas]

View attachment 201804 Yep, our tastes have changed more than our bodies. I think the vintae looks good on you.

That photo of Brando illustrates beautifully the source of many a problem in jacket fit. Most of us do not look like the swaggering young Marlon Brando, nor or are we artfully photographed in a movie with an entire costume worked out.

 

[navetsea]

that brando jacket... I think it has a padded shoulder, almost in every screen cap the shoulder is flat no matter how he posed, and the sleeve always tucking in under the shoulder seam when he raise his arm, I bet it has some padding on the shoulder to give neater and wider shoulder look.

 

[Hobbes1]

My $0.02: keep the jacket, dont wear a pants belt. I think its a good looking jacket.

 

[regius]

without vest they look so weird, how do they look sitting down

The pants would be at chest level lol.


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[AeroFan_07]

Thanks for all the replies & insights! It's always interesting and entertaining to find out other people's perspectives on common, everyday situations.

A little more background on me, I am 195 lbs (could stand to loose 10) and am just over 6'1" with the White's smoke jumper boots on last Saturday. I generally wear mid to high-rise pants (denim or cotton twill models) and by choice I always tuck in my shirt & wear a belt, regardless the occassion. I only go un-tucked at the the gym or while riding a bicycle.

Monitor's post showing the Vanson Manx jaket is also interesting, I have a slightly different Vanson that is nearly identical in fit and appearance, and for actualy riding it's still my favorite jacket. (Mark II Sportrider, 1999 vintage) Just off the bike it seems to look odd. It's so perfectly broken in, and I got it so cheap 10 years ago that it would be silly to ever sell it.

Lat Cap - yes the Ridley is on my radar. I actually owned a J106 for a while and similar, excellent fit. Still kind of sad I ever let it go, but that may be in the plans for the new year!

Appreciate all the comments, and hope all of you have a great Holiday season coming up!