Fabulous Fountain Pens - Golden Era classics you can use today!

[John in Covina]

White Dot

In Sheaffer pens the White Dot only signifies that the pen was a Lifetime pen, warranteed for the life of the pen owner.

Touchdowns are noted by the filling tube that comes out when you use the filling mechanism. Later Touchdowns eliminated the tube. (When you see the tube extended, it makes the pen look like some kind of assasin's poison pen.)

 

[DerMann]

Erm, not quite, John. I believe you are referring to a Snorkel. You are correct about the white dot, though

Taking a blind stab here, freebird, but your mention of the #5 nib makes me wanna guess that you have the traditional open nib as opposed to the conical nib found on most other white dot.

Touchdowns fill by unscrewing the blindcap, extending the touchdown tube, immersing the nib in ink (unless you have a "tip dip" model), and then pushing down on the touch down tube.

The Snorkel (as John mentioned) is much the same. Except when you undo the blind cap, a small brass or gold tube comes out of the feed, and you immerse it in lieu of the entire nib. Remarkably clever and remarkably complex. Lovely little pens.

 

[John in Covina]

The conical nib is if I recall correctly is noted as the Triumph nib.

Correct about the Snorkel, although theTouchdown was related as a filling system as you stated. I have a snorkel black with gold trim, the body looks like it was used in a grinding shop.

 

[DerMann]

Right on the spot, Triumph nibs. All of the ones I've used are as stiff as a nail but smoother than butter. They were made in two-tone gold and later Palladium. Both are a joy to use. The Triumph nibs on the Snorkels have a bit of a crook at the end, and it makes them look even wilder.

The Snorkel was just the next evolution of the Touchdown. It was only made from 1950 to 1956, and was rather expensive (the cheapest being something like $7). They came out just before cartridges gained popularity, but a remarkable number were still sold, which explains why so many are available today.

Sheaffer may have nipped the production of the Snorkel and the Touchdown, but they kept the filling systems alive in other pens. The Snorkel was used in the Pen For Men, a fat, stubby looking thing. While the Touchdown filler was used in several models of the Imperial, much like the PFM but skinnier, longer, and generally more attractive. Both pens were made up until the 1970s.

I've had a Snorkel Statesman, Valiant, Admiral, and Sentinel in my hands, and they are all marvelous pens. Whether open-nibbed or Triumph.

 

[John in Covina]

So-Cal Event

Over in the events section the Southern California Pen Collectors Club will be getting together on Saturday, September 6th, 2008 in Covina CA.

See the tread there for more information.

 

[DerMann]

Oh what the heck, I'll post the collection

Starting off at the left:

-Parker Duofold Senior (1929)
-Parker Vacumatic Major (First Quarter 1946)
-Parker "51" Special set (not dated, late 1950s)
-Sheaffer Touchdown set (not dated, early 1950s)
-Sheaffer Snorkel Admiral (not dated, early 1950s)
-Sheaffer Snorkel Sentinel (not dated, early 1950s)
-Waterman 52V (not dated, early 1920s)
-Waterman 55 (not dated, early 1920s)
-Reform 1745 (New Old Stock German School pen from the 1960s)
-Hero 616 (Chinese clone of the "51", clip is broken :\ )

My only hope is to get a Waterman 52, but I think my collection is basically complete

 

[Thanatos]

a beginners question

I would very much like to take up the gentlemanly art of penmanship, especially as at present my pen is more that of a drunken sailor than anything else. I've found all the advise on this thread very enlightening but have yet to hear any advice when in comes to nibs.

I know little about such subtleties, other than my grandfather used an oblique italic nib, and his hand was beautiful, truly copper plate. All I have obtained in my search for such a nib so far have been blank stares. Any advice for a novice? and perhaps where i might find such an item?

Also could anyone recommend a good classic book on penmanship so that i may educate myself a bit, perhaps something of the English persuasion?

 

[John in Covina]

Look for a Lamy dealer they have italic nibs for a couple of the pens they make. Such as the Safari. For a bit more Pelikan has some of the 215 series out there with italic nibs.

 

[John in Covina]

http://www.swisherpens.com/catalog/companies/fine_writing_instruments/lamy/lamy-calligraphy-nib.htm

 

[John in Covina]

http://www.swisherpens.com/catalog/...n/pelikan-series-m150-nib-stainless-steel.htm

 

[DerMann]

In order to write Copperplate, one needs a flexible, offset nib - an italic point is useful in producing italic styles of writing.

Copperplate is similar in appearance to Spencerian - however, Spencerian has a much much more line variation, going from extra fine to what would be described as a triple broad.

www.pendemonium.com offers a series of books on handwriting (forgot their name), and they were made in the 1920s (I think), for which they sell at $6 a piece. I purchased their beginning book on Business hand, and it has been really helpful.

Pendemonium also sells dip pen holders and nibs necessary for Copperplate, all for a very fair price.

Of course, if you are looking for an italic nib, John's links are good sources for well priced pens.

 

[John in Covina]

Here is a really great place for dip pens and caligraphy stuff:
http://www.johnnealbooks.com/

 

[John in Covina]

In the modern world, fountain pens with Flex nibs tend to be hard to come by. Manufacturers in Europe may have nibs with some flex, but true flex nibs are rare today.

Namiki which is the high end line from Pilot and oddly enough from Japan has their Falcon which comes with a true flexible nib. Go for the fine point for the greatest line variation.

See it here:
http://www.swisherpens.com/catalog/...ruments/namiki/namiki-falcon-fountain-pen.htm

 

[John in Covina]

FYI The Southern California Pen Collectors Club (SCPCC) will be meeting in Covina, CA Saturday September 6.

If you are nearby come and visit us.

See the thread in the events section.

 

[David Conwill]

Parker Quandry

I just discovered my local antique store has three old Parkers in one of the booths - I looked them over, but ultimately decided to pass. They seemed awfully short. Is that typical of antique Parkers or was I (as the clerk and my wife seemed to think) looking at some kind of ladies' model? The price also seemed kind of high for pens of unknown quality - $25 each for the models with caps, $5 for the model missing its cap. Should I go back and take a second look, or hold out for a brand new Aurora?

-Dave

 

[John in Covina]

Parker made full sized pens and shorties that were pocket or ladies models. Do they have pocket clips or rings on the cap top, rings for hanging from a chain were more likely ladies models.

 

[John in Covina]

Condition is everything. How good a condition, how original are they. Then what model and from what era are they. If they are in good condition, needing only resacking and can be cleaned up easily, then $25 is probably not a bad price. Beginners usually get a few of the picture books and familierize themselves with features. When antiquing it is good to take a magnifyer glass with and write down all of the imprints on the body and the nib. Then refer to the books to figure out the era and series of pen.

Careful cleaning and polishing such as with Simichrome will bring them back nicely, but the nib needs careful handling, and the resacking should be done by an expert until you are the expert.

 

[David Conwill]

Resacking?

er... resacking? I'm afraid I don't know what that is. I love writing with fountain pens, but I'm still learning the basics of their care and feeding.

-Dave

 

[John in Covina]

er... resacking? I'm afraid I don't know what that is. I love writing with fountain pens, but I'm still learning the basics of their care and feeding. -Dave

**************
Older pens have a rubber sack or bladder to hold the ink, works like a big eyedropper. A lever or button when pushed or moved squeeses the bladder and when released the bladder or sack opens up to draw in the ink. The sack cracks or just ossifies.

 

[SweetieStarr]

Oh what the heck, I'll post the collection

Starting off at the left:

-Parker Duofold Senior (1929)
-Parker Vacumatic Major (First Quarter 1946)
-Parker "51" Special set (not dated, late 1950s)
-Sheaffer Touchdown set (not dated, early 1950s)
-Sheaffer Snorkel Admiral (not dated, early 1950s)
-Sheaffer Snorkel Sentinel (not dated, early 1950s)
-Waterman 52V (not dated, early 1920s)
-Waterman 55 (not dated, early 1920s)
-Reform 1745 (New Old Stock German School pen from the 1960s)
-Hero 616 (Chinese clone of the "51", clip is broken :\ )

My only hope is to get a Waterman 52, but I think my collection is basically complete

Great collection. Is the Vacumatic the silver/black color? I really want an Azure one!