Extreme Hat Makeover!!!

[Art Fawcett]

I received a hat on Tuesday that is a perfect candidate for what I would call an "Extreme makeover" and seems perfect to show some of our newcomers to hats the process ( or at least a good part of it)) of a complete renovation. This hat is an Adam Executive from the early 50s that has a great deal of "pinache"..or at least it did!! This one was much loved and VERY worn. After getting the owners permission (will keep his identity secret unless he steps in) I got started by assessing it

OK..it's worn at the crease..alot

Oh YEAH,,,REALLY faded

Liner is dirty ok..leather is completely beyond help. Note the stitching?

Ok...so now we know that it need cleaning, new leather..what else

Insides removed..hmmm..the staining on the inside isn't too bad

OK...ribbon is really faded..a must

OK...here we are..almost stripped down. I think I want to clean it before taking the brim binding off because I (and it's owner) will have a decision to make when I do. This hat has an overwelted brim that was covered over at one point in it's life with an orange ribbon. Different touch but I don't know if I like it.

Here's what I have in mind for this hat. Since the outer hat is so completely faded and I have no way of redying it to color, I'm going to turn it inside out and refinish it that way. This poses some problems: ie; the underbrim will not match the over brim color..can the owner live with that? I believe yes so the other consideration is the welted brim...it will now be an underwelt. Gotta take the chance.

Here is the hat in it's next stage. Soaked in cleaning fluid, dried, then turned inside out and carefully stretched over the correct block.

Wish me luck...

 

[Raindog]

It's already looking much much better! Sounds radical turning it inside out, but it works a treat:cheers1:


Jeff.

 

[Kaleponi Craig]

So far, so good, Art. Wow, this is going to be something to witness. Keep us posted, please...KC

 

[Hemingway Jones]

That was really interesting to read and to see the process. I also really like the color of that hat. I am amazed at how good the final photo looks. Incredible.

 

[budward]

Yes, thanx for the pics. They are very informative. I hope you'll post more of the same as the hat progresses.

Bud

 

[Andykev]

Nice pictures, but now the cat is out of the bag

Art, I thought you weren't gonna reveal the "inside out" approach to hat renovation secrets!

I have watched Art for years "turn it inside out" before. Somtimes this is the only approach, as the hat is perfectly unfaded on the inside. The only issues are when the brim is welted. Sometimes, cutting down the width 1/8 inch and rebinding it will solve the problem, but most Loungers I know want that wider brim.

Art, you are looking great. Say, is there a four star **** Mexican place next to your shop as good as El Sol?:cry:

 

[Feraud]

Thank you for sharing this with us. I find it very interesting!

 

[Art Fawcett]

"Art, you are looking great. Say, is there a four star **** Mexican place next to your shop as good as El Sol?"

Sorry Andy...you're just gonna have to deal with Bev's cooking. She does some pretty mean tamales.:cheers1:

Your welcome Feraud..I'm uploading the rest of the picks tonight to finish off the thread.

 

[Bebop]

This is a great thread. The main reason I became a member of the Lounge was to find threads led by hatters that show you the "inside" of hat making and restoration. Thanks, Art. Keep the photos of the process coming.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Ok...here we go again!!!

After cleaning the hat and drying it, reblocking, the brim binding ( ribbon) still didn't come clean so I removed it to take a look.

hmmm..the threads are coming loose from the welting but not that bad. I understand now why the binding. Well, time to reset the bandline ( the crease where the crown meets the brim) and give the brim a curl.

Here's where it starts getting tricky. Time to insert a new leather. Since I work alone I couldn't take the pics of assembling the sweatband so here I have it set into the hat and basted in place to take to the sewing machine with sewing in leathers as it's only purpose. There are alot of hatters that can sew in the leather without this step (basting), but I'm not good enough yet.

OK..leather sewn in now to the toughest part for me, the new binding. I've decided that they had the right idea when covering the welting so I went after rebinding the brim. Although I have a machine that sews bindings on, I'm not yet practiced well enough to trust my talents so I do it the old fashioned way, cutting, sewing the rear seam, centering it, basting it, then sewing it down. With the welting it should make in ummm,,interesting.

Whew..when sewing the binding down it actually pulled up the threads of the welting..right through the ribbon. Have my work cut out now. But, now is the time to install the new ribbon & bow

Next..although I couldn't get the liner as clean as I wanted, at least it is now sanitized so time to sew the liner in..yes..SEW it in, not glue it or tape it.

OK...after picking out as much of the welting thread as possible it's time to reset the brim in the sandbag and give it a crease.
Here is the result of this process and about 5 hours work.

After steaming out some of the lines left by the flange at the bandline we will have a finished hat ready to send back to it's owner.
That's about as Extreme as a renovation gets.

 

[Bud-n-Texas]

Good looking hat Art. Was it inspired by Nick's Disney?

 

[John in Covina]

That is a superb renovation, the hat is really gorgeous.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Yes and no Mr. Hats.. I've owned the Disney before of this style and yes, Nick's hat reminded me. I just mostly worked with what the hat was asking for. Does that make sense? I know it sounds "out there" but it's the kind of thing that..when it's right..it presents itself. It's how I deal with colors in general.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Thanks John, now lets hope the owner thinks the same thing. I actually got so involved with it I didn't call him to get approvals. (gulp)

 

[John in Covina]

Thanks John, now lets hope the owner thinks the same thing. I actually got so involved with it I didn't call him to get approvals. (gulp)

Well Art, I imagine they will be thrilled at the renovation! If you give the owner a step by step with the reasoning behind your actions, much like what you have spelled out here, I doubt they'd object. It especially helps when you can see the pictures with your explaination.

It is a combination of Science, Artistry and a fine fashion sense.

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Art Fawcett]

uhhh fun would be one word John...I can think of a few more!!

 

[Solid Citizen]

Terrific Post

Art,

1. This is probably one of the BEST posts I've seen since joining the Lounge
in October!!!

2. I guess people don't realize how much life is still left in some of these vintage hats until your skills are brought to the case.

3. Roughly what is the price range for this kind of service to an old hat?


Peter

 

[WEEGEE]

EXCELLENT

WOW!!!


Art you are the man...gold standard...no myth...pure legend.

 

[Biltmore Bob]

How old is that hat, Art?

Amazing transformation. Will those lines where the brim meets the crown come out completely?