Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

[Flanderian]

This is part 1 of 2 of Esquire, June 1949.

 

[Flanderian]

The is part 2 of 2 for Esquire, June 1949.

 

[Tiki Tom]

I’m sorry; I love all the hats. And I’d buy the entire Cat-Cay Collection if I looked like that in it.

 

[Faux Brummell]

A pleated pique shirt? I’ve learned something yet again.

 

[Flanderian]

I’m sorry; I love all the hats. And I’d buy the entire Cat-Cay Collection if I looked like that in it.

Agreed! Some good looking straws!

A pleated pique shirt? I’ve learned something yet again.

View attachment 300519

I'm not particularly knowledgeable concerning dress wear, but I've noted that while a comparatively narrow number of items are prescribed by a form, the subtle detail of each can actually be quite varied.

Pleated shirts seemed a fairly common variant, and picque not as uncommon as you (And I!) might suspect -

https://www.acornfabrics.com/blog/what-is-pique-fabric/

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's July 1949 illustrations.


Pirate bold!? Well, shiver me timbers!

A number of useful suggestions below. I prefer to wear my linen and cotton PS squares with 3 points up. Recently, I noticed a trend of gentlemen in political circles doing likewise. But most have 3 absolutely perfect, symmetrical points that look like nothing more than the so-configured scraps that were once provided stapled to the top of cardboard rectangles. I find it unappealing.

 

[Tiki Tom]

LOL. I can’t help but admire the chutzpah of the advertising executive who dreamed up the idea of marketing a line of high end, elegant clothing as “Pirate Bold.” Bravo!

 

[Faux Brummell]

Sorry, I wasn’t clear - it was the combination, a pique shirt with pleats, that I had not encountered before.

Agreed! Some good looking straws!



I'm not particularly knowledgeable concerning dress wear, but I've noted that while a comparatively narrow number of items are prescribed by a form, the subtle detail of each can actually be quite varied.

Pleated shirts seemed a fairly common variant, and picque not as uncommon as you (And I!) might suspect -

https://www.acornfabrics.com/blog/what-is-pique-fabric/

 

[Flanderian]

LOL. I can’t help but admire the chutzpah of the advertising executive who dreamed up the idea of marketing a line of high end, elegant clothing as “Pirate Bold.” Bravo!

A simpler time!?

Sorry, I wasn’t clear - it was the combination, a pique shirt with pleats, that I had not encountered before.

Nor, I! But my disclaimer was intended to portray that might simply be the product of my own lack of detailed familiarity with the genre.

 

[Flanderian]

Here are Esquire's August 1949 illustrations.

I hope to eventually close out 1949, but will be pausing for a hopefully short period before concluding.

 

[Tiki Tom]

Yeah. It is starting to unravel. Too much emphasis on (by our modern tastes) bad photography.

 

[Flanderian]

Yeah. It is starting to unravel. Too much emphasis on (by our modern tastes) bad photography.

Sorta looks like they took a couple guys from the mailroom; one to model, and the other takes the pictures!

 

[Flanderian]

This is part 1 of 2 of Esquire's September 1949 illustrations.

 

[Fading Fast]

At least some reasonably good illustrations returned in September '49 versus August '49's mess of an issue.

 

[Flanderian]

At least some reasonably good illustrations returned in September '49 versus August '49's mess of an issue.

Thought the same thing. Numbers 3 & 4 are right in my wheelhouse and very much presage the Ivy fashions 8 to 10 years later.

 

[Flanderian]

Part 2 of 2 of Esquire, September 1949.

Somehow, selecting corduroy for a raincoat sounds counterproductive, irrespective of being treated for water repellency. But it still makes a good looking coat!

When Sam Mendes was making his excellent 2002 Depression era crime melodrama, Road to Perdition, the costumers worked hard, and successfully, to dress their characters in authentic period costumes. Seeking contemporary footwear for their male characters that would replicate that actually worn by during the era they happened upon one then still making footwear virtually identical to that of the era, Allen Edmonds.

 

[Flanderian]

This is part 1 of 2 of Esquire, October 1949.

 

[Fastuni]

Love the Oct. 49 coats, particularly the return of dramatic peak lapels.

The metallic palladium shirts and ties also look neat and capture the modernist spirit of the era.

The Sept. 49 choice of corduroy for a trenchcoat horrifies me. Too much bad 70's vibes and just overall not a good fabric for a full coat.

 

[Flanderian]

Part 2 of 2 of Esquire, October 1949.

The coat below is handsome, but more of interest because of the particular blend of fibers used in the spinning and weaving of the cloth. Alpaca is a marvelous natural fiber possessing a good deal of the softness and warmth of cashmere, but providing greater breathability and better wear. Alpaca worsted suiting was once less uncommon. Mohair wears like iron, is wrinkle resistant and has an attractive sheen, these two fibers combined with quality sheep's wool might yield a very useful cloth.

The merchants brand name is also of interest since during roughly the same period a cloth with the brand name of Alpagora was also advertised. A blend of alpaca and angora with other fibers?

 

[Flanderian]

Love the Oct. 49 coats, particularly the return of dramatic peak lapels.

The metallic palladium shirts and ties also look neat and capture the modernist spirit of the era.

The Sept. 49 choice of corduroy for a trenchcoat horrifies me. Too much bad 70's vibes and just overall not a good fabric for a full coat.

Had forgotten about the corduroy long coats of the '70's, and that certainly isn't one I'd wish to resurrect!

Agree concerning the shirts and ties being emblematic Mid-century Modern (And the art work is very nice also.) but I'm troubled by the continuation of what I first observed as a trend of American makers of offering "sets" of excessively matchy-matchy accessories, which is a mode I've always found unfortunate.