Er, 'Japanese armholes'

[Sir Jacket]

Loungers, am thinking of splurging on an Orgueil leather car coat. Generally, the sizing seems fine but something I can't work out remotely is the armhole cut on the Japanese jackets. What do people think? Overly restrictive? I do have a fairly athletic build.

 

[handymike]

Similar to the Thedi, I believe.

 

[Sloan1874]

I'd expect them to be high and tight. Generally, even if you've got the right size, they'll start off feeling restrictive but will relax a bit with wear. I personally prefer them to the wider sleeve heads as they give a better range of movement so the jacket won't ride up when you lift your arms.

 

[Grayland]

I personally prefer them to the wider sleeve heads as they give a better range of movement so the jacket won't ride up when you lift your arms.

I agree. I find that the high/tight armholes allow the jacket to move much better with your body.

 

[G'c]

Agree with all of the above. I have an Orgueil cossack myself. The arm holes are higher and tighter than other models commonly produced by western companies. I don't have an athletic build so I feel comfortable in it. You have to consider whether the biceps area will be restrictive to you if you say you are athletic.

 

[Big J]

Just my 2 cents, but apart from US flight jacket repros, Japanese jackets made for the japanese market would be a no-no for me.
The physiology is so different. The average Japanese guy is extremely slightly built by western standards (some might say scrawny) and Japanese designers make clothes for this domestic demographic. For example, if I try to buy a suit or dress shirt off the rack here, even if the chest size is fine, sleeves will always be two inches too short, and fit to burst if I try to move my arms, so I have to go bespoke (conversely, almost all Japanese pants seem to be three inches too long and its standard for almost all stores to adjust them within the hour when you buy).
Thin jackets for thin people, try before you buy.

 

[BobJ]

Plus, you have to consider whether or not you want to be able to wear this coat over a sweater or other layers.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Plus, you have to consider whether or not you want to be able to wear this coat over a sweater or other layers.

Beat me to it!

I like high armholes generally but they make layering a pain.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It's not just a Japanese thing, but they do tend to have higher and tighter armholes. Thedi has them too and other specific models from certain brands have them. I personally love the tighter, cleaner look they have, but it does make layering difficult as others have pointed out.

However, here in California it's not a problem at all.

My RMC A2 has fairly high armholes and I still find it comfortable for a leather jacket. I also have quite broad shoulders and a decently muscular physique, despite the extra weight I have. I don't see it as a problem unless you're REALLY yoked.

 

[Sir Jacket]

Cheers, all. I have a Thedi and it’s fine. I also generally prefer the slimmer profile.

I have a Studio d’Artisan cotton blazer (same makers as Orgueil) and it fits fine.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Just my 2 cents, but apart from US flight jacket repros, Japanese jackets made for the japanese market would be a no-no for me. The physiology is so different. The average Japanese guy is extremely slightly built by western standards (some might say scrawny) and Japanese designers make clothes for this domestic demographic. For example, if I try to buy a suit or dress shirt off the rack here, even if the chest size is fine, sleeves will always be two inches too short, and fit to burst if I try to move my arms, so I have to go bespoke (conversely, almost all Japanese pants seem to be three inches too long and its standard for almost all stores to adjust them within the hour when you buy).
Thin jackets for thin people, try before you buy.

Your comments are worth more than two cents and any North American who isn't twink/anorexic/pre-teen should take them to heart.

 

[Sir Jacket]

How my discussion of Japanese jacket cuts got on to anorexic twinks I'm not sure. Perhaps it was inevitable.

 

[ton312]

How my discussion of Japanese jacket cuts got on to anorexic twinks I'm not sure. Perhaps it was inevitable.

LOL. Good point. I think the general rule of thumb is that the "Japanese cut" is slimmer, shorter and all around smaller, accommodating the general build of the population they are meant to outfit. I had a Thedi with high cut arms and it was snug but not obscenely so. My SB however was extremely high and tight and much less comfortable. I think more than the sleeve position, the shoulder width/depth is something to take note of in a tight fit.

 

[Grayland]

My SB however was extremely high and tight and much less comfortable. I think more than the sleeve position, the shoulder width/depth is something to take note of in a tight fit.

Was this the Vintage Cafe Racer (with the D Pocket)? That jacket looked awesome.

 

[ton312]

Was this the Vintage Cafe Racer (with the D Pocket)? That jacket looked awesome.

No the Detroit. It was cut super narrow, front to back, through the shoulders.

 

[El Marro]

How my discussion of Japanese jacket cuts got on to anorexic twinks I'm not sure. Perhaps it was inevitable.

Had to use the google to get up to speed on exactly what a "twink" is but now I'm all caught up! One thing that is ceratainly inevitable around here is that you never know where a thread is going next...
Trucker shorts anyone?

 

[navetsea]

I learned my lesson not to google up "words" I don't understand because most of the time it is better that way last time I did, the word keep coming as suggested word for weeks it's embarrassing.

 

[navetsea]

Had to use the google to get up to speed on exactly what a "twink" is but now I'm all caught up! One thing that is ceratainly inevitable around here is that you never know where a thread is going next...
Trucker shorts anyone?

how to wear it? all buttoned up, halfway done, or totally open?

 

[Big J]

@Doctor Damage,
Lolz! Yeah, that just about sums it up. I was trying to be discreet.

But the point is valid. Look at Bruce Lee (not Japanese, but Hong Kong Chinese, and a good example because people can google him), he was exceptionally well built and muscular for an Asian gentleman, and yet, if you stand next to his statue in HK (which if anything would exaggerate his build, although I believe it to be accurate), he was TINY compared to a western guy.
There are some incredibly tall Chinese basketball players, and there are some super plus size Japanese sumo, but these guys are outliers not catered to by high street clothing stores.

 

[Sir Jacket]

Here are some images sent to me by the very helpful Benny's store in Hong Kong of someone my height and weight wearing a 40. The arms look too short but apparently the guy has extra long arms.

What do you think?