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ELC: Skipped stitch holes?

navetsea

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I don't like broken stitches or empty stitch holes, unraveling stitches, wabisabi better be kept at patina, popping grain, tarnished brass, oxidized leather
and not into construction.
 

GHT

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Someone was Just having a bad day on the Job man, haven't you ever worked in a sweatshop? sometimes your machinery Just ain't gonna give you an easy time..
You make a valid point but the chances are that the thread ran out and the operator, seeing that it was just a couple of holes, just couldn't be bothered to unpick the line of thread and re-sew it. Leather is stitched on a powerful, industrial sewing machine, take your foot of the control button and it won't stop dead, hence a couple of holes after the thread ran out.
 

Dumpster Diver

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You make a valid point but the chances are that the thread ran out and the operator, seeing that it was just a couple of holes, just couldn't be bothered to unpick the line of thread and re-sew it. Leather is stitched on a powerful, industrial sewing machine, take your foot of the control button and it won't stop dead, hence a couple of holes after the thread ran out.

I don't know, couldn't disagree that it might have run out of thread on the bobbin. whoever was running the Job was probably really pressed for time and Those parts of the Jacket were probably some of the final touches. The film industry is pretty demanding with time spots..The textile industry, probably Just as stressful and intense.

-----------

I have an industrial singer from the 1920's and it's a beast with a converted DC motor but was originally a foot treadle...when it's set up properly it's a cinch! The thing could push a buick and I had to replace most of the parts or it didn't work but it was a good deal since the table was smashed. It runs out of thread often, and sometimes has trouble with the bottom tension if I haven't run it for a time, and it can drop a Few stitches on a line if the material is 4 or 5 layers thick even with an 18 gauge needle and nylon thread, and You can go over it as many times as you want even moving the wheel by hand and it's just not going to give you a stitch, rather than going over the same holes or making more of a mess, maybe the tailor decided it was best to leave it alone once the thread probably ran out like you're saying.

I don't know what they use at ELC, but I bet they're awesome!

that being said, I don't think you, or anyone here would trust my handy work and wear a pair of the Jeans I made at this point, at any price! :p
 

GHT

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I have an industrial singer from the 1920's and it's a beast with a converted DC motor but was originally a foot treadle...when it's set up properly it's a cinch! The thing could push a buick and I had to replace most of the parts or it didn't work but it was a good deal since the table was smashed.
Those old Singers are all indestructible, your's sounds awesome. You say that an 18 gauge needle struggles to give a stitch over multiple layers of leather, and you certainly sound like someone who knows what they are about, so at the risk of sounding impertinent, are you using spearpoint needles? If you are, and you are still not getting a stitch, try sandwiching the leather with interfacing.

Denim is not for me, but I bet your jeans are as indestructible as that Singer of your's. Do you rivet the pockets?
There is one leather that you can sew easily, it's a leather that I wear instead of denim, and that's chamois leather. My missus made me a beautiful shirt in chamois leather, it's rather delicate in that it will show sweat stains, but I always wear a T-shirt underneath and my missus has sewn in underarm protectors. The shirt is the classic shape, it resembles denim from a distance but up close it looks amazing and is so soft and supple. The times I hear, "where did you get your shirt?"
chamois leather.jpeg
 

sweetfights

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Wabi Sabi is what this thread is largely about.
Sharing of ideology can be misrepresented.
Too deep for this thread perhaps?
 

Dumpster Diver

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That's one Lush cut shirt! The sleeves are nice!

Wow! That's absolutely Beautiful, what thread have you used?

The one thing I'm planning on eventually when I get my hands on the material is a pair of Buckskin "native" inspired pants.

I don't have rivets, I'm nowhere near that level yet, I made a pretty straight forward pair with some vintage Denim from a thrift shop. I copied them from Seafarer dungarees.

They're spearpoint needles I think. I'm not using interfacing as you guessed, it's pretty much Just my technique more than the machine I'm using that's the problem, I don't know what I'm doing.

I really fast tracked so I am not a wizard yet.

Anyway, sorry for the hijack and thread de-rail.
 
Last edited:

sweetfights

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In traditional Japanese aesthetics, wabi-sabi is a world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is "imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete".
 

sweetfights

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VS The desire to get what you pay for.
I battle between these two.
My OCD can prevent me from enjoying life- I find this thread interesting because what we are really doing is sharing beliefs.
 

GHT

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That's one Lush cut shirt! The sleeves are nice!
Wow! That's absolutely Beautiful, what thread have you used?
I too apologise for the threadjack, so if you will indulge me, I will just answer this question and then we can get the thread back on track.
My missus says that she has experimented with a variety of threads and found bounded nylon to be the best for chamois leather. She said that bonded nylon is a strong thread, and the bonding process it undergoes, adds strength and reduces friction, making sewing smoother and faster. It is also perfect for hand sewing leather because the bonding agent, a type of resin, helps dissipate friction during the sewing process. Smartass is my missus, ask her what thread she uses and I get a science lesson.
 

navetsea

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I don't know, couldn't disagree that it might have run out of thread on the bobbin. whoever was running the Job was probably really pressed for time and Those parts of the Jacket were probably some of the final touches. The film industry is pretty demanding with time spots..The textile industry, probably Just as stressful and intense.

-----------

I have an industrial singer from the 1920's and it's a beast with a converted DC motor but was originally a foot treadle...when it's set up properly it's a cinch! The thing could push a buick and I had to replace most of the parts or it didn't work but it was a good deal since the table was smashed. It runs out of thread often, and sometimes has trouble with the bottom tension if I haven't run it for a time, and it can drop a Few stitches on a line if the material is 4 or 5 layers thick even with an 18 gauge needle and nylon thread, and You can go over it as many times as you want even moving the wheel by hand and it's just not going to give you a stitch, rather than going over the same holes or making more of a mess, maybe the tailor decided it was best to leave it alone once the thread probably ran out like you're saying.

I don't know what they use at ELC, but I bet they're awesome!

that being said, I don't think you, or anyone here would trust my handy work and wear a pair of the Jeans I made at this point, at any price! :p
My mom use old singer with foot pedal to do her dress, her assistant use juki with motor. I ve been to motorcycle saddle cover maker nearby who sew leather with foot pedalling machine.
 

navetsea

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In traditional Japanese aesthetics, wabi-sabi is a world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is "imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete".
I can see that in nature or as thing ages brass or copper developing patina or stone , wooden handle, leather polished smooth by usage, color fading, grain popping, crease forming, leather wallet distorts its shape, cool stuff, showing the item is used and maintained

but imperfection as a result of slopiness or neglect, perhaps they dont count as wabi sabi.
 

Seb Lucas

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but imperfection as a result of slopiness or neglect, perhaps they dont count as wabi sabi.

What counts as wabi sabi is in the eye of the beholder. Remember, we don't know why the stitches are missing. Attributing them carelessness is unfair. The stitching may well have come loose during wear or 'treatment' by wardrobe.
 

nick123

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These Catch 22 jackets are heavily pre- distressed, just as many leather jackets used in film are. Johnson Leathers did Nash Bridge's jacket, complete with a faux bullet hole. The stitches could have unraveled after or been missed prior. But surely it's for the sole purpose of creating a garment used on a set....the seller is just reselling a film product subjected to extra-curricular distressing. If it speaks to you (I think they look cool), spend the $. But surely this can't be considered a regular Eastman product.
 

navetsea

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What counts as wabi sabi is in the eye of the beholder. Remember, we don't know why the stitches are missing. Attributing them carelessness is unfair. The stitching may well have come loose during wear or 'treatment' by wardrobe.
not specifically talking about the jacket, actually not talking at all about the jacket as the thread has derailed a long time ago, just my feeling in general.
 

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