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Eastman Leather Clothing USAAF B-3 Flying Jacket, Perry Sportswear 17808 Mixed Batch

HPA Rep

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This is among my favorite B-3 jackets we offer. When it was first introduced, I didn't think I'd end up liking it as much as I now do and that I'd end up buying one for myself, but this quickly grew on me. Much like Eastman's Rough Wear Clo. Co. 17756 pre-1942 B-3 jacket, I find the unique coloring of both the skins and the subdued, darker wool colors to appeal more to my personal taste than the typical wartime B-3 jackets with their sharp contrasts between body color and wool color, plus, no matter how different and authentic an Eastman wartime B-3 is, to the untrained eye they are just another "bomber jacket," because just about any company making B-3 or B-3-style jackets will offer a jacket in a body color that's very dark with wool coloring that's very pale.

I also was pleasantly surprised to find how much I love the hand-applied Time Wear treatment, which is standard on this B-3 style. The Time Wear is also subtle and just enough to bring out a rugged, vintage aesthetic that precludes the B-3 jacket from looking so starkly new out of the box. Eastman's Time Wear has evolved since it was first introduced as part of our contract with Touchstone Films in 2000 when I was working as a technical advisor on "Pearl Harbor" and secured the purchase contract for all of the related flying jackets and accessories. Today's Time Wear doesn't look contrived or heavy handed; it's just enough to mellow the jacket and lend it some character that only the equivalent of military flying and years of later use could achieve. I cannot endorse this B-3 enough, though the look of the mixed-batch of skins is clearly something not for everyone.

The sheepskin is Eastman's newer "broken grain" variety and the seam taping, pocket, and the sleeve reinforcements are Eastman's Vintage WarHorse. The sheepskin consists of both the pre-1942 hand-dyed russet brown skins or "redskins" and the darker brown skins that just started to became available at the very tail end of 1941, both of which are vegetable tanned on this jacket. The Vintage WarHorse is fully vegetable tanned and aniline dyed with nearly no pigment added and comes from one of the finest tanneries in Italy.

The B-3 jacket is warm and this past winter gave me plenty of excuses to wear all of my different B-3s. I admit to being a B-3 guy, so I look for excuses to wear a B-3 and can recall wearing an original Werber B-3 when I was in my teens on some cooler September nights with just a tee shirt and unzipped. That being said, I sometimes think I may be somewhat reptilian and cold blooded, because I read of others who say they find B-3 jackets to be too warm, which I personally find fully inconsistent with my own experiences.

We have this style in stock from sizes 38-48 regular.

I'm wearing size 40R and my build is as follows: chest 40", 5' 9" tall, waist 30", shirt sleeve 33", weight 147 lbs., lean, athletic build.

You can see detailed images, size tips and product measures on our website:

https://www.historypreservation.com...-perry-sportswear-contract-17808-mixed-batch/

B3-front.jpg B3-side.jpg B3-back.jpg
 

aswatland

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This is by far my favourite ELC B-3. I have worn mine a lot this winter and it is breaking in nicely. I agree with everything you have said about it Charles.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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Very beautiful to look at but sadly I had to sell mine because of the fit. I just couldn't lift my arms above shoulder level and the very hard cuff seams dug into my wrists
 

John Lever

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Doubly sad as it was a very special batch that from what I can see is even better than the current ones. The seal skins had a red base coat and much more character than the current ones.

 

mr_lits

A-List Customer
Messages
319
Location
Los Anchorage
I can safely say this is the finest jacket I own and get compliments on it every time I wear it. It suits the Alaska winter well and I get a fair bit of in it over the season. Top notch product.
 

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aswatland

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,338
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Kent, England
I can safely say this is the finest jacket I own and get compliments on it every time I wear it. It suits the Alaska winter well and I get a fair bit of in it over the season. Top notch product.

Well said. I too have been complemented on mine. It's gone away now until the autumn.
 

HPA Rep

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Location
New Jersey
a very handsome jacket!, I'd be hard pushed deciding between that and the S.F.A.D (funds permitting).

D

I agree, Davy, which is why I bought myself an SFAD B-3 this past fall. The Perry B-3 was my birthday gift to myself in 2013 and SFAD B-3 arrived in time to be the 2014 birthday gift. I really love them both, but I'm going to have to say the SFAD B-3 is my fave, largely because it's the most unique and it so easily crosses over into the non-military world of fashion. The SFAD B-3 is also the most comfortable of any B-3 I've had; the absence of the lacquer core sealant on the skins increases flexibility many fold. For those who like the SFAD B-3 and who have stayed away from the B-3 style due to issues of rigidity and limited mobility, the SFAD B-3 should provide you with what you are seeking and then some.

I'll be posting fit images of the SFAD B-3 in due course. The skins these are made from are always in short supply, but we managed to receive most of those we ordered last year and we've just placed a good order for fall 2015.
 

HPA Rep

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Location
New Jersey
That is sad John and not my experience with the jacket.


Likewise, Andrew, I can't say I've had any issues with mobility, though there are some people who just cannot get used to a B-3, to which I always then point them toward the RAF jackets or an AN-J-4.
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
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Doubly sad as it was a very special batch that from what I can see is even better than the current ones. The seal skins had a red base coat and much more character than the current ones.

Sure was a beauty, John, and a tear jerker in having to sell it. Those jackets with the red undertones were all from the early productions, which it's my understanding resulted from dying "redskin" pelts with the dark brown dye. Eastman didn't have any of the dark brown pelts with the beige-like wool immediately available when these early jacket were being produced, so this was the fastest way to get the then-new Perry B-3 into production.
 

Dumpster Diver

Practically Family
Messages
952
Location
Ontario
This has been the Jacket of My Dreams...Im going to have to washa LOT of Dishes to afford one.

Someday maybe.

I do have my original 1941 Mixed batch Aero B-3 in a nice Solid Size 46...best Jacket Ive ever had, I Just couldnt bring myself to wear it.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
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1,820
Location
Southern England
I have had very many b3's including the SFAD. Probably ten Eastman's, two Aero's and five RMNZ. The Perry was the least wearable unfortunately.
If you own one then try the test of fastening both neck straps. I found it impossible to hold my arms up long enough to do it because of the binding in the upper arms and shoulder area.
It is a beautiful thing though.
 

mr_lits

A-List Customer
Messages
319
Location
Los Anchorage
I have had very many b3's including the SFAD. Probably ten Eastman's, two Aero's and five RMNZ. The Perry was the least wearable unfortunately.
If you own one then try the test of fastening both neck straps. I found it impossible to hold my arms up long enough to do it because of the binding in the upper arms and shoulder area.
It is a beautiful thing though.

I dunno. Mine doesn't seem to have the same issue, it is not a fight to get my arms up. It was stiff as a board when I first got it, but with time and wear the leather has broken in quite nicely (some panels more so than others). Admittedly it is a BULKY piece of kit but I can't complain about any fit issues. Sized true to me at 44.
 

John Lever

One Too Many
Messages
1,820
Location
Southern England
I dunno. Mine doesn't seem to have the same issue, it is not a fight to get my arms up. It was stiff as a board when I first got it, but with time and wear the leather has broken in quite nicely (some panels more so than others). Admittedly it is a BULKY piece of kit but I can't complain about any fit issues. Sized true to me at 44.

Can you fasten the collar straps without a massive strain ?
 

HPA Rep

Vendor
Messages
855
Location
New Jersey
I have had very many b3's including the SFAD. Probably ten Eastman's, two Aero's and five RMNZ. The Perry was the least wearable unfortunately.
If you own one then try the test of fastening both neck straps. I found it impossible to hold my arms up long enough to do it because of the binding in the upper arms and shoulder area.
It is a beautiful thing though.

I tried mine, John, which is quite broken in, and I tried a new one off the rack, and I can't say either B-3 presented the issue you described. Since you've owned numerous B-3s and I've had hundreds pass through my hands via the business, I'm starting to think the Perry B-3 you sold was some odd one-off jacket, the problem of which was possibly manifested via both how it was cut and sewn and the skins it was made from.
 

mr_lits

A-List Customer
Messages
319
Location
Los Anchorage
Can you fasten the collar straps without a massive strain ?

Yeah, no real problems getting the collar straps buckled. If I could muster any complaint about the jacket it might be the collar size. I know B3 have big collars but this model seem extra big for some reason (compared to others I have owned). But otherwise it is a ridiculously nice jacket.
 

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