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Early Half Belt Motorcycle Jacket Won on eBay

J

john z

Guest
As title really. Seems to be a nice early example of a Half Belt-to-Motorcycle transition. No makers name as far as I'm aware, just the Horsehide label. I just hope it fits when it arrives. Opinions & pointers as to age please.





 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Based on what I am learning round these parts, I looked first at the zips. Hard to tell from that photo, but they look to me to be the smaller, finer types found on earlier jackets. The pocket detailing on the left breat looks more 40s than 50s to me. Also - please point out if this is a red herring - but the buckle on the half-belt looks like it has no pin in it - reminds me of those German leather trenchcoats of the 40s - the type which have no buttons and fasten with the belt only. Is that a factor in dating the jacket, or not relevant?

Any idea as to geographical origin? i'm presuming if "Horsehide" is in English then it was at least produced for an English speaking market?
 
J

john z

Guest
It was listed as 30s/40s & from my limited knowledge of US (I'm 100% sure it's of US origin) horsehide jackets I bid on it confident the dating was correct. Several features lead me to this conclusion knowing how the classic US motorcycle jacket evolved during the 30s/50s.

Wool linings were the norm pre WWII after which, generally but not exclusively, man-made materials were adopted for the linings.

By no later than '53 (The Wild Ones/Perfecto) jackets had more than the two external front pockets this one has & I guess motorcyclists wanted/needed/expected their jackets to have the usual 4 pocket front. Also by then the D pocket was generally no longer fashionable & was the exception rather than the rule.

All hardware is naked brass. Again by the early 50s Nickel over brass was the norm.

The big give away for me is the the retention of the half-belt back, a feature of the classic non-motorcycle specific jacket from which it has evolved, only losing the side straps & buckles. This was a feature in the early development stage & it soon gave way the upper 3/4s back to be separated from the lower 1/4 by a straight seam or, less common, the inverted western yoke seam.

I'm no jacket expert & am only too willing to be corrected on any of the above so feel free.

Re. sizing, from the listed measurements it's a size 40. At least I hope it is or I'm going to be one unhappy man if I can't wear this & have to part with it.

Meanwhile here are some detail pics in answer to the above posts.

Zips:





Label:



Buckle:



Pocket, nicely scalloped:



D pocket zipper pull. This seems to be the only fault that it has become detached from the zipper slider chain. An easy fix as all parts are present:

 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
OK-
have a look here:
http://www.vintagemotorcyclejackets.com/prices.htm

-scroll down to Jacket 7., which is a similar style, albeit a Ladies version.
It's listed as '30s/'40s- jackets supplied by MC dealers often ran the same style for many years(Indian had a his-and-hers jacket , style, the Ranger,w that ran for about 10 years). Have a look at the photo (link)of the "action back", you'll see another similarity. I would say '40s, due the style and the use of '40s-made zippers. Zippers made in the '40s could be used in the '50s but not '40s zips in the '30s, of course. I think John's jacket is of the style generation before those with the side pockets (a MC rider does not really need hand-pockets)and larger collar/lapel. Motorcycle jacket "style" was not so much dictated by "fashion" back then.

I had a vintage MC jacket ("Sportclad")which was purchased new,
in 1948- it had a full, loose belt(running through the kidney pad/rear pocket- yes, it had a rear pocket with side zips), side pockets and the same zippers as Johns example.

I would date John's jacket as '40s but not as late as '50s but in doing so,
I'm not sure how much leather MC jacket production there actually was in the US between 1941 and 1945(wartime) but I want to say "early '40s". But those Conmar zips are 1941 model(I think) and the style could go later into the '40s, or even '50s.
BUT taking everything into account, I say it's a '40s jacket, which I think is a fair and educated date-ing.
That's all I have and the best I can do with my limited experience, observations and some logic, right, or wrong.
I'm not a MC jacket expert.

Maybe the vintage MC jacket blog guy can help.


B
T
 
J

john z

Guest
BT: Excellent observations & detective work there. Thank you so much. I think you have the decade correct. I checked out the link you posted & am surprised you didn't pick number 10 in the list. That jacket is 40s & so close to mine in all aspects as to make very little difference. I notice there's mention of eyelet riveted belt loops &, looking again am pretty sure mine has them.
 

goldendawn7

New in Town
Messages
33
Location
Raleigh, NC
That is too cool for school. I hope to all that is holy it fits you, as I have has HORRIBLE luck with buying leather online. Post some pics of you in it when you get it.
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
john z said:
...surprised you didn't pick number 10 in the list. That jacket is 40s & so close to mine in all aspects as to make very little difference.

I know- I knew there was a very close match there but I couldn't get that web site up when I went to write the message- I knew about #7 though.

Anyway- I'm happy you've seen some kind of "proof" of vintage.

It's a very cool jacket and I hope it fits and lives up to your expectations.


B
T
 

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