Dubow 27798 Good Wear Leather Review

[Tariacuri]

this is part II, you can see part I here

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=23906

MATERIALS

The leather is vegetable tanned cowhide (Pueblo Bridal) in a mid weight. This may be slightly heavier then a WWII example but I suspect not by much, and given the way the leather looks and drapes - not an issue.

View of the grain on one arm, front, and back

The color is a light tan/russet with a reddish tinge. Wears to a light tan underneath. After shrinking the jacket I gave it a light coat of Pecard’s which darkened the leather slightly. Here in ‘dry country’ I find my jackets get thirsty after 6-8 months or so. IMO the color is very close, but probably slightly lighter, then the size 46 on Jon’s CD. Stitching with the correct weight cotton thread in a light OD.

Left pocket and arm detail

The leather already came ‘highly figured’ and the additional manipulation increased this quality in spades. Take a gander at the pics – they speak volumes – I think this is a very authentic looking patina.

The lining is of a proper weight cotton twill, and again very close in color/quality to the size 46 27798 on the Chapman CD – although darker then some of the others. So . . . fits within the pretty broad range of variation found on originals.

The knits were hand dyed by Jon to closely conform to originals and are true in terms of size, color, etc. with a slightly reddish hue. Notice the nice waistband stitched detail.

Cuff detail (with a string or something on it)

Waist detail, color in photo is pretty close

DETAILS

The collar is 100% Dubow, large, pointed, and nicely tailored. The label is the Good Wear Leather house variety.

Collar and label detail. The zipper is a vintage talon.

Likewise the epaulets are 100%, thick, correct stitching, double sided.

Ep. detail

And the pockets are amazing, flared flaps, rounded corners, right size, correct distance from the windflap and zip (slightly offset).

Left pocket detail

Right pocket detail

Correct hourglass stitching for the hanger loop

Hanger stitching from the back

Being a prototype the hardware is slightly off, ring instead of nipple snaps. My brother’s version has nipple snaps as will the production models I believe.

Hardware details

CONCLUSION

What can I say, I’m very pleased, best repro I’ve ever seen. Fit, quality, authenticity, all place these Good Wear jackets at the front of the pack.

Chris

 

[Feraud]

Those Goodwear jackets are beautiful!

 

[Technonut]

Damn.... What a spectacular jacket!! :eusa_clap

 

[fishmeok]

Tariacuri's review pretty much says it all, but here are a couple pictures of Johns' two pre-production Dubows. I'm 6' with a 44" chest and Chris is 5'11" with a 43" chest. Both jackets are 48's that have been shrunk down to around a 46.
Both jackets have almost the same measurements posted above in the review. I have been wearing mine almost continuously for over a month and it has broken in nicely. This is a very substantial jacket, weighing in at about 3.5 pounds.

Nipple snaps on my jacket- note how the zipper "dives" into the windflap at the top:

Close up of the pocket stitching

Comparison between the two Dubows:

The John Chapman CD pose with the jacket zipped up

from the side;

And from the back:

Cheers
Mark

 

[PADDY]

Copyrights...

You do realise that John has the 'copyright' on THAT pose?

Again, what can I say? These are just beautiful jackets and I personally LOVE the grainy texture to the hide:eusa_clap

 

[fishmeok]

You do realise that John has the 'copyright' on THAT pose?

I realize it's a poor imitation of the official J.C. jacket display pose, but it's the best I can do....

Another attempt at the pose, with the jacket OPEN this time. After this one my wife refused to take any more pictures.
Cheers
Mark