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Dress Like the Great Depression!

Tiller

Practically Family
Messages
637
Location
Upstate, New York
I noticed this article awhile ago, and figured I'd share it with my fellow Loungers to see what they think.

http://mises.org/story/3372

Dress Like the Great Depression
Mises Daily by Jeffrey A. Tucker

A conspicuous cultural change we can look forward to is a dramatic change in men's dress style. Guys, you might as well get ahead of the curve. The free-fall economy means a boon for better fashion for men who intend to survive the onslaught.

We will be highly fortunate if the second Great Depression turns out to be as stylish as the first, in which even the bums sleeping in the park benches looked better than the average workers and even CEOs today.

Just look at this guy in this Depression-era photo. See the 1 ¾ inch cuffs on his trousers, the snappy crease in his pants, the great hat, and the woolen trousers? And the shoes: leather and laces resting on a solid foundation. If I found any of his clothes in the vintage shop, I would snap them up and be ready for today's tight job market, which seeks serious men, not goofs in sweats and polos.

The boom times led to great shabbiness. Workers have lived in wrinkles and jeans. The guy with the shirt with buttons is derided by others — "You going to a wedding or something?" We were all encouraged to look up to the slobwear of hotshot traders and stock jobbers and the others, who revel in the fact that they look like heck all of the time. Even the billionaires have looked like hobos (who themselves looked pretty great in the 1930s).

The idea behind shabby vogue was to give the impression that you don't really care what others think. You are the cutting edge, the smasher of idols and conventions, a person who doesn't give a flip about how society judges such artificial external superficialities as pant creases and ties and things. Your value is in your very person, the fact of your existence on this planet. In the boom times, the message of fashion is "It's all about me!"

Now all of this has come into question. How much value did this jeans-clad generation really add? How much of it evaporated? How much was illusion all along? Maybe all this hype about intellectual capital is poppycock, and what matters is what one actually does, and not only for oneself but for others, such as customers and bosses and fellow workers.

As Trevor Kaufman, the guru of "CEO Casual," told the Wall Street Journal in an article written at the top of the boom, "A suit has become something you wear when you're asking for money."

Uh, right.

In the bust, your clothes need to send a different message. There are fewer resources to spare. Everyone is conserving. The goal of your life becomes different. You are no longer permitted to pretend that your very existence is a blessing to the world. Instead, you must add more value to the world than you take from it. This is especially true in your work life.

In fact, this should be your professional motto: I can add more value to this firm than I take from it.

This is what every employer — who these days is reluctant to hire and reluctant to promote and pay — is actually seeking. No more fluff in the workforce. No more fluff in fashion either.

Right now, with unemployment moving into the double digits, it is becoming a dog-eat-dog world in labor markets. You must stand out. You must find ways to show that you are not expendable, that tossing you out would do more harm to the company than good. You must show that the company will risk losing more revenue by sending you away than by keeping you.

Clothing reflects this. There is no sense in disadvantaging yourself in this struggle.

Just have a look at what all men in the Great Depression wore. They were smashing. The suit. The hat. The shoes. The ties. Everything was well put together, among all races and classes of men. This isn't just because all this stuff was intrinsic to the culture. Men in all times and all places have had the option of looking ridiculously unkempt. The point is that these men were under pressure to perform, to show that they were valuable, to demonstrate on sight that they were desirable commodities as workers.

So let us plunge back in time to examine modern needs in light of historical precedent, with some tutorial along the way.

Let's start with the suit. It should be made of wool. It should be gray or blue. It should not have that strange Euro fit but rather have the loose-but-neat fit of the traditional American suit, which was never designed to show off your body, but rather your character.

Thus must it be sturdy and serious. The jacket can have two buttons, three buttons, or four buttons. When you are standing, all but the bottom button should be buttoned. You need to work on the habit of unbuttoning these buttons when you sit down and rebuttoning them when you stand up. Yes, you have to do this each time. Try it consciously over the course of a day and it becomes habit. The only exception might be at dinner, during which it is permissible to keep the coat buttoned.

Never take your jacket off, no matter how much you want to, no matter how hot, no matter how much people plead with you to do so. The jacket is part of your clothing, and gentlemen don't take their clothes off in public.

Just so that we are clear, the sport coat and pants combination is not a suit. In other words, a blazer and khakis don't work. A suit has a jacket and pants and sometimes a vest that match. The fabric and color of the top and the bottom are the same.

You can buy great suits in thrift stores or on e-Bay, but you have to have a sense of what you are doing. If you don't, you have to pay more by going to a nice men's store, where you will have to pay the big bucks. However, you can get by on two or three suits, essentially forever. Wear one on M-W-F and the other on T-Th-S.

Shirts, always worn with an undershirt during the bust (because people who really work also really sweat), should be white, blue, or light tan. Everything else is a risk. It can be straight collar or button-down. Lose the fancy "collar bars" and things until you are CEO. They look pompous most of the time.

For fit, the pants length should grace the top of the shoe, and the cuffs should be more than 1 ¼ inches but less than 2 inches. The shirtsleeves should fall ¼ to ½ an inch below the jacket.

Now consider the shoes. They should lace up. They should have leather soles if possible. Loafers are for loafers, and you don't want anyone to think you are among them.

And hats! This might be the most exciting of the restorations of our time. Men haven't really worn them since the 1960s, and that's not just because JFK didn't wear his. It's really because we don't get out much anymore. We go from the house to the car to the office and hats don't serve that much function anymore.

And I hate that I even have to say this, but hats are not to be worn indoors. The only exceptions are large public spaces: malls, train stations, airports, and hotel lobbies. Otherwise, they are always off: restaurants, homes, offices, elevators, etc.

However, the hat serves more than a pure utility function. It is a thing of beauty. It is as valuable, in this sense, in the hand as it is on the head. A hat changes everything about a man. It elicits notice and respect, and the man with a hat knows this: he is complimented on it constantly. And let's just tell the truth here: it raises you above the rabble quicker than any article of clothing.

There are two general colors of hats: browns and blacks. You choose your hat the same way you would choose your socks, by picking up on general hues and themes. They are made of wool and sometimes pelts (fancy stuff). They can be stiff or crushable. You know the style that is right for you by trying it on. Different head shapes require different styles, so I'm not sure that online shopping can really work here.

In any case, despite our indoor culture, the new Great Depression stands a good chance of finally smashing the legacy of JFK: the hat might be restored.

Please note one final point: dressing up doesn't mean adopting a stuffy personality with a stiff way about you, or walking around like a tin man. Good clothes provide the freedom to express yourself in other ways. You can be casual-acting and normal-behaving, and it is all the more important to be this way when you are dressed up. You can still move about normally, and do all the things you would otherwise normally do.

Clothes on a man should look and seem comfortable no matter what they are. You must be confident enough to wear them as if you belong in them. The more you can look like your clothes are in fact no big deal, just part of your life, the more compelling the message will be.

The way you dress can make all the difference. If it doesn't work to boost your professional life, you can always count on looking fantastic when you march on the White House and protest against its occupants for robbing you blind in the name of saving you.
 

Lensmaster

One of the Regulars
Messages
177
Location
Saginaw, Michigan
It's sad that during the Depression unemployed men dressed better than employed men dress today. It reminds me of the scene from the movie Dodsworth, 1936, where there is an army of unemployed men marching to Washington. They are camping and walking all day for several days, yet almost all of them are wearing suits and ties and hats.
 

Orsini

Familiar Face
Messages
72
Location
Redondo Beach, California, USA
Some interestng observations in this generally good article.

Curiously, for wardrobe, I never think if it as "the Great Depression" but rather, "the '30's"...
Tiller (quoting the article) said:
"...The jacket can have two buttons, three buttons, or four buttons..."
Four!?
Tiller(quoting the article) said:
"...When you are standing, all but the bottom button should be buttoned..."
For a three or four button jacket? [Sucks air through teeth, Japanese businessman-style]
 

Fletch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,865
Location
Iowa - The Land That Stuff Forgot
Good advice for somewhat misguided reasons. Mr. Tucker advises us to show that we are "desirable commodities." That implies we are commodities - not indispensable, as he suggests, but interchangeable.

And for @#!!'s sake, take off your jacket if it's that hot. How is a coat of perspiration supposed to get you places? Or is that a convenient way of weeding out applicants in a scarcity environment?

The whole thing just smacks of "we'd all be better off if we just stopped being so damned individual." If I believed that, I sure wouldn't dress this way.
 

Paisley

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,439
Location
Indianapolis
I guess these folks didn't get the memo

casino1.jpg


casinojobfair.jpg


Hundreds turn out for casino job fairs in Colorado.
 

Tiller

Practically Family
Messages
637
Location
Upstate, New York
Fletch said:
Good advice for somewhat misguided reasons. Mr. Tucker advises us to show that we are "desirable commodities." That implies we are commodities - not indispensable, as he suggests, but interchangeable.
I imagine he uses those words due to his economist background. In my economics classes I've heard workers being called everything from commodities, to labor, to expenses lol. Economics is as bad as philosophy. There are hundred if not thousands of different "schools of thought", all using certain different terms to describe similar ideas, and only a certain ideas universal under the same title, and then it's usually with the schools name in front of it. "The Marxist view of, the Keynesian view of, the Austrian view of."

And for @#!!'s sake, take off your jacket if it's that hot. How is a coat of perspiration supposed to get you places? Or is that a convenient way of weeding out applicants in a scarcity environment?
I think that's the idea. The stiff upper lip thing. I've heard it's what they do in the service when you go through boot camp. See how much a gentleman/lady can take before they crack. How well you can complete a job under extreme stress, and discomfort.[huh]

The whole thing just smacks of "we'd all be better off if we just stopped being so damned individual." If I believed that, I sure wouldn't dress this way.
Maybe it sounds that way to you, but I'm 99.9 percent sure that's not what he meant. The man is a anarchist and hates "controls on individuals", and is a rabid individualist. I think his point is though that superiority of our style compared to the modern, and how adapting such styles would be a positive, especially in the job market. How dressing good for yourself positively influences those around you, and it is what puts you above, and beyond people who stick to normal fashion. Especially those who think a button up shirt and a pair of slacks is "dressing up", and will help you stand out in a job interview.

Whether we should keep in touch with the "old ways" as far as how we act in public in our vintage style, (ie Should you only wear one's hat in "public places" or should one wear it like some wear ball caps now? Should you take your hat off in a elevator in the presence of a lady? Should one unbutton the last button on ones jacket well sitting down?) really seems to be a big debate in our community, and will undoubtedly be decided on a individual basis.
 

Bill Taylor

One of the Regulars
Interesting article. Those who are the "leaders" in the slob/slopiness group are largely(although not entirely) an age group of 20 to 35. Recent statistics show that pink slips are flying and they are flying to workers in the 20 to 35 age group. Recently it was reported that the unemployment rate for that age group is 29.1% vs the national average of a little less than 9%, although in California and some other states it has gone to 10% to 11%. By midsummer, studies show that the 20 to 35 age group may experience an unemployment rate of over 50%.

If the recovery is slow(or if it doesn't occur at all), and there are indications that it will be, the 20 to 35 group unemployment number may rise to 60% or more. Currently, the jobless rate for those 50 years and older (to about age 70) is 3.4%. Older workers are being retained, those younger are being canned in large numbers.

I have some personal exerience in this. Although I am 76 (will be 77 in a few months) and retired two years ago, my former company has contacted me and asked me to come back for "a while", what ever "a while" might mean. I started "trying" to retire when I was 70, but finally made it by 74 (there was a lot of "just a few more months" which became years, not months).

More appropriate dress in the workplace may correct itself after all.

Bill Taylor
 

Paisley

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,439
Location
Indianapolis
Fletch said:
And for @#!!'s sake, take off your jacket if it's that hot. How is a coat of perspiration supposed to get you places? Or is that a convenient way of weeding out applicants in a scarcity environment?

If I were interviewing someone in a hot room (and aren't most businesses air conditioned?) I'd invite them to take off their jacket and offer them a cold drink out of courtesy. Nothing we do at our accounting office requires heat tolerance.
 

Lady Day

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
9,087
Location
Crummy town, USA
Fletch said:
The whole thing just smacks of "we'd all be better off if we just stopped being so damned individual." If I believed that, I sure wouldn't dress this way.

I think its referring to the arrogance of being 'individual' as in "Im wearing jeans with bleach stripes because its my 'personality' so you have to respect it" as opposed to wearing something that is generally considered presentable by whatever standards are associated with whatever job you are applying for, weather you conform or not.

LD
 

Foofoogal

Banned
Messages
4,884
Location
Vintage Land
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=38031

this thread goes along with this thread.

BTW: According to the Dept. of Labor stats:
651,000 job losses in Feb. 2009 was the 5th. largest monthly total ever reported.
The largest was September 1945. Why is that? as we always think of the depression years as the worst.
Was this related to the war somehow? Odd.
------------------------

I find it even odder from the article that now he is suggesting that people dress conservatively. A bit late.
 

LizzieMaine

Bartender
Messages
33,825
Location
Where The Tourists Meet The Sea
Foofoogal said:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=38031

this thread goes along with this thread.

BTW: According to the Dept. of Labor stats:
651,000 job losses in Feb. 2009 was the 5th. largest monthly total ever reported.
The largest was September 1945. Why is that? as we always think of the depression years as the worst.
Was this related to the war somehow? Odd.

Yep. After V-J day, "Reconversion" got started, which was a euphemism for "Getting rid of as many now-unnecessary defense jobs as possible." Many thousands of people were laid off during the fall of 1945, which in turn led to a crisis when servicemen started coming home enmasse at the end of the year, because there simply weren't enough jobs to go around. The Government ended up having to provide a year's worth of unemployment benefits to honorably discharged vets just to keep them going until civilian jobs became available. $20 a week for 52 weeks -- which led to "Joining the 52-20 club" as a postwar slang term for getting a military discharge.

Back to the original topic, let's just say that a commitment to "individualism" is usually the first thing to go out the window when the choice is to fall in line or sleep in the street.
 

Flitcraft

One Too Many
Messages
1,037
Wow! This just in from the Deja Vu all over again Dept...

I just watched Cinderella Man with my eighteen year old daughter and she commented on how well-dressed all the dockworkers seemed to be.
Her comment was :"Wow, if a guy was dressed that way today (trousers with cuffs, shirt tucked in, hat and coat), people would ask him if he was going to a job interview, or even a date!"

Verrry interesting...[huh]
So stevedores working the docks in New Jersey in the 1930's are dressed better than guys going to office jobs today...
 

reetpleat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,681
Location
Seattle
While his observations seem accurate. They did dress better. I don't know weather to take it seriously or not. As a light hearted bit of whimsy, i might appreciate it. Beyond that, what is he really saying and does it mean anything.

i don't think dressing better would make any real difference to the economy. Sounds like he is just a bit of a curmudgeon looking for an opportunity to criticize modern style.
 

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