Drafting your own patterns

[Medvssa]

In my search, all the threads we have about patterns are about pre-made patterns. Nothing about drafting your own that I have found.

Does anyone here draft their own? I find this to be the most fun of all the dressmaking activities. Don't get me wrong, I am just a dabbler, but I still love it. And the possibility to make or copy just anything you like or can imagine is just...

I am trying to get a bit better at it, so I have been reading this book, Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin, from 1942, which I think is fantastic, so simply explained with great diagrams. And all the design ideas in it are just wonderful!

Just look at this, and this, this, and this!

 

[Lorena B]

I am currently doing a course in pattern making and drafting for the old Marti system ( an Spanish pattern making system dated from beginnings of the 1900 and awarded several awards like the 1914 London's International Expo. & the 1924 ParisInternatinal Expo)

The actual fact of creating the pattern with new measurements and all that is quite entertaining but at times confusing process but the most enjoyable part is definitely making the adaptations and transformations of the newly created pattern to get the look you are looking for.

 

[Medvssa]

Lorena, now that you mention old Spanish pattern systems... perhaps some people may be interested in this old book I have online in PDF (47MB)!!.

It is a system first published in 1877, and this is the third edition from 1888. Beyond vintage My friend owns the book, and took pictures of all the pages. I adjustied them and made the PDF.
There are patterns for hats too!

Of course this book is all in Spanish, but the method is pretty simple: you take the measurement around the bust and you see in a table (page 22, 20 of the PDF) to wich square measurement it corresponds (for example, 91 cm bust corresponds to a square of 6.5 cm side, which is the size h). The patterns are then drafted in a grid, the measurement of the sides of the squares being that that corresponds to your size.
Every size comprises the number given and all subsequent numbers until the next size (size h comprises between 91 and 97 size bust). Although, if the measurement is the exact given (91cm bust) and the garment is gonna be fitted, the backs should be cut using the previous size (g) and the fronts that that corresponds (h). I hope I explained myself clearly...
There are other variable measurements that can be taken, as waist (but this is mostly to be taken in at the darts) and sometimes lenght of body (from nape to waist) or lenght of arm. The book is a bit confusing when it comes to adapting the pieces to these measurements. It is explained in pages 24 and 25 (21 and 22 PDF).

 

[crwritt]

Thanks for posting this. though I don't read spanish, the illustrations are beautiful. the necklines on the camisas are so pretty.

 

[Lorena B]

Yes, i am agree with Crwritt.

It's really interesting Medvssa, i particularly like the part dedicated to the corsets.

I should read it more carefully to see if there is any similarities with the Marti.

Definitely a curious book for me, thank you for posting it Medvssa.

 

[Lorena B]

Thanks for posting this. though I don't read spanish, the illustrations are beautiful. the necklines on the camisas are so pretty.

I am agree, they are delightful.

 

[Lorena B]

By the way, has anyone any knowledge about how the Haslam method is about?
http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/566570624uPTrdu?vhost=entertainment

 

[Medvssa]

No idea but thanks for the link!

 

[Medvssa]

A bit lame that I post here again

But this is quite exciting (lol) I just finished, with the help of my wonderful boyfriend and the book I linked in the first post, my first set of bodice slopers. My boyfriend draped it on me and I corrected the pattern. It fit pretty much perfectly on the first mockup!

Now, theoretically, with this I can make any bodice I want

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I've dabbled in drafting my own. I've been using re-prints of 1930s books in my self-drafting journey. Sometimes they can be incredibly confusing (and I know I'd have much better luck with a modern book!), but that's half the fun -- ie "vintage effort"

Pattern Making from 1937 is the best one I have. It was written for a beginner. I love it!

1932 Dress Cutting Book. All that early 1930s-ness can be mine if I can ever find time to put the effort in!

1935 Pattern Making Book. This one is difficult and VERY mathmatical (like, from the get-go -- it assumes you already know this stuff!), but it's a cool book to have in your collection. And if I ever do get more advanced I'll be glad I bought it.

 

[Lorena B]

A bit lame that I post here again

But this is quite exciting (lol) I just finished, with the help of my wonderful boyfriend and the book I linked in the first post, my first set of bodice slopers. My boyfriend draped it on me and I corrected the pattern. It fit pretty much perfectly on the first mockup!

Now, theoretically, with this I can make any bodice I want

Nice one!!!

 

[Medvssa]

Thanks Lorena.

I've been using re-prints of 1930s books in my self-drafting journey.

They look like cool books, I will add them to my wishlist.

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Haslam

I have the Haslam system. It involves much more drafting than say the Lutterloh system. It involves the use of a template. I haven't used it yet but there are a lot of beautiful designs.

 

[Lorena B]

I am agree, the designs are gorgeous and also noticed that they are as the system quite expensive.

I have also seen someone selling it for up to £75 and i am not talking about the originals but about the system scanned and CD reproduced.

 

[Lauren]

I also draft my own patterns. I don't do as often from scratch as, say, modifying existing patterns, but when I do draft something up from scratch I prefer draping on the dress form. I've got a Wolf form I invested in quite a long while ago, and it's my baby. Here's a few photos of gowns I've made from draping or a combination of drapin/flat patterning. One isn't yet completed, but I'll add a picture of the muslin from a few weeks ago.

The Harriet Pepin book is great. I learned most everything from going to fashion school, but I really love collecting vintage drafting books, when possible. I have yet to pick up the ones AmyJeanne mentioned, but they're on my "someday" list!

 

[SayCici]

Aaaaah! Beautiful, Lauren!!

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Wow Lauren, I am in awe of your patternmaking schools. Those are gorgeous!

 

[Lorena B]

me too, i am in awe!!

 

[Lauren]

Thanks, gals! Draping's pretty awesome- if you have a form and learn the basics it's just all about creativity

 

[Amy Jeanne]

I want to learn to drape so badly! I have a 3-week hiatus from school -- maybe I can learn to draft more and then play with draping!