Dr Martens

[Dav]

That sounds pretty good PhilD, I did wonder how worn-out they had to be in order to get a replacement, by the sounds of it not that much. Seems the extra few quid for the For Life boots is worth it then.

 

[STEVIEBOY1]

That sounds pretty good PhilD, I did wonder how worn-out they had to be in order to get a replacement, by the sounds of it not that much. Seems the extra few quid for the For Life boots is worth it then.

Agreed, you do need to be careful, it often pays to buy British even though the cost may be more. Trying to save money can be a false economy sometimes. For example, I will only buy wool knitwear that is made in the UK, the quality is generally better. Rgds Steve.

 

[ButteMT61]

My son hooked me up with Doc's that are supposedly made for UK mail carriers. I like them a lot. Basic, black. Got them from a seller on eBay.

 

[Johannes Gilbertson]

I have a pair of Doc Martens that are decent and well made but they are not the most comfortable boot I've ever worn. My Portland boots by Rocky are BY FAR the best duty boot I've ever worn and have held up very well over the years. I have four pairs of them and will continue buying them as long as they make them.

 

[Travis Lee Johnston]

I'm wearing my pair of the UK made shoe version of their original boots right now. I've had them over a year and wear them quite a bit. They still look new. They fit comfortably once they got wore in(about two weeks to a month). I can't believe some of these posts about the shoes falling about. Any time I've tried to contact ANY company about a refund/exchange they told me to go to hell.

 

[Futwick]

I have a pair of black steel-toed size 10s from the early 90s when they were still made in Britain. I only wear them in the winter as they are just too hot for summer.

 

[Simonds]

a very cool production video I found, thought I would share.
[video=youtube_share;FDUxkwB2vmI]http://youtu.be/FDUxkwB2vmI[/video]

I've always wondered why this isn't in "Outerwear" [huh], oh well, hope you enjoy the video as much as I did.

 

[winterland1]

Cool video thanks for posting.

 

[ianbrettcooper]

I own six pairs of Dr. Martens, including a pair of Made in England Vintage 1460s, a pair of Vietnamese 1460s, two pair of Pier Boots and two pair of shoes all made in China.

In terms of the boots, I actually prefer the ones NOT made in England (MIE). The MIEs tend to be smaller and narrower, as they're made on a different last than the Asian ones. Also, the English boots are extremely hard to break in. Dr. Martens claims that the Vintage models are made on the original lasts, but it seems that they're actually made on one of many lasts that was used between the 1960s and 1980s. According to one review, they recently changed the last because of complaints, but in my opinion the replacement last is not much better - my MIE 'Vintage' 1460 is much less comfortable than my Vietnamese made 1460. The Asian boots are all made on what they call a 'comfort' last, which has much more room in the width and is much truer to size.

Also, in my experience, Asian made Dr. Martens seem to have a bit better finish to them and better quality control: a clear example of this is the yellow stitching, which looks quite unprofessional on MIE boots, with untidy stitch ends showing on the outside edge of the boots. The stitching on Asian Dr. Martens, on the other hand, is finished on the inside edge so it's less visible, and the stitching looks tidier. My MIE vintage Dr. Martens also came with an edge folded over where it met the sole - it doesn't affect comfort or wear, but it is evidence of poor quality control.

As an Englishman, I take pride in all things English when those things deserve it, but in my experience, MIE Dr. Martens fall short of my expectations for British craftsmanship. I also find that the derision often aimed at Asian-made items can be unfair: this seems especially true when it comes to leather items. Say what you want about the Chinese and Vietnamese, but in my experience they make good quality boots.

 

[esteban68]

Despite being English I am not a fan, DM's were required wear as a schoolboy in the late 70's/early 80's, back then they were a good boot that lasted a good couple of years before you killed them, they always buffed up well and the soles had a decent amount of tread on them.
After 10 years loyalty to the brand and only having DM's and rugby/football boots as footwear (though I did have a brief flirtation with a pair of white Puma G Villas in 84!)I moved on to c1985 German para boots for motorcycling duties from leaving school as the excellent speed-lacing system was a real boon when needing to get to work on time whereas a snapping lace on DM's just meant a late mark at school!!!
I was given a pair of size 9 DM's c 1998 that had been worn once and tbh they were a shadow of their former self imho, lower quality leather, thinner soles with less tread...I guess the rot set in when they became popular when the middle class goth craze came about and every teenage goth boy and girl 'needed' a pair, I guess at that point cost saving measures and speeding up of the production line to meet increased demand didn't help and a reduction in quality ensued?

 

[ianbrettcooper]

Yeah, I can easily see why people might not be fans. Having to wear them for school would definitely have left a bad taste in my mouth for them too.

The strange thing about DMs is that they have somehow acquired this mythical reputation, when the reality is, back in the day, they were always a 2nd tier or even (dare I say it) a third rate boot. They were never the top of the line bespoke boot - far from it. Yet now, they have this reputation as some sort of "classic" brand. So even though I'm a fan, I can easily see how people might feel ambivalent about them, or even dislike them. Personally, I like them because they need a bit of work to break in - I just enjoy getting them the way I want them. So many clothing items these days are pre-weathered and pre-faded so that they have a lived-in look before you even put them on. DMs give me a sense that I'm part of the creative process - they end up being "my" boots in a way that many modern shoes can't match because they've been computer-designed and machine-molded to be the perfect fit. DMs still achieve that hand-made feeling, despite the fact that they're somewhat overpriced and over-hyped.

As for today's DMs being shadows of their former glory, to be honest, I think the "former glory" idea is a myth. Like I said, DMs were never all that great. I had a pair in the '80s and they were okay - they were comfortable, but they weren't the be-all and end-all of boots. Personally, I think the newer ones are better - they certainly fit better right out of the box.

 

[esteban68]

Oh we weren't forced to wear them we were punk/skinhead culture wanna bees(13 year olds) so we wore them and loved them, they were better made then and lasted...if DM went back and exactly reproduced them as they were with thicker sole treading and decent quality leather instead of the cheap thin corrected grain (a nice grained option in black or brown would be nice)I'd buy a pair tomorrow as they were always warm in winter due to the sole construction and you could slide on ice well in the winter too...bonus!

I perhaps should add that I wear DM's virtually all year round they were bought for me in 1999 when I worked in a secure unit, they've been worn virtually every day since, the leathers starting to go and the linings are shot and the soles are wearing badly but they are 14 years old, they are the no longer available steel toe capped padded ankle speed laced top tan/brown workboot...as new they had a great chunky proper sole and were very comfortable, but the standard 'classic' DM is not what it was.
basically these but the top eyelets are 'speed' type, I would buy a pair of them if I could find some!

 

[Fifty150]

Dr. Martens basic models, the 1460 & 1461, have more or less remained the same since 1960. Using the best technology of the 1950's.

The common black and red boots made in Asian countries has a painted on coating to disguise the bad leather. Dr. Martens calls this Smooth Leather. It creases and cracks. Dr. Martens describes it as corrected grain, which is sanded and buffed. They admit that it is stiff and difficult to break in.

​

The Made In England shoes use what they call Quilon. This is also described as a stiff leather. Fortunately, Dr. Martens makes a balsam for this leather.

Dr. Martens lists almost a dozen types of leather on their website. There have been boots offered with other types of leather.

The boot is lasted to a Bontex or Texon lasting boards, then stitched to a PVC welt. Sometimes there's a half sock liner. Sometimes there's a foam insert. Under the lasting board, there's foam, and sometimes felt. Sometimes there's a wood shank. The sole is then melted on to the welt with fire.



The sole is what Dr. Martens calls AirWair. It's a very soft rubber with voids. The voids allow the soles to be lighter, and air cells between help cushion your steps. Pretty simple. 1950's technology.

I have owned Dr. Martens since I was a teenager. I still buy them. I still wear them. As a motorsports enthusiast, I like wearing them on my motorcycle. When the motorcycle comes to a complete stop, and my feet have to plant on the pavement, the AirWair soles feel good. Soft, spongy, with surefooted traction. I own better constructed shoes and boots. I have Dainite and Vibram soles. The Dr. Martens soles feel the best to my feet, when my feet have to plant on the pavement to hold up almost 1,000 pounds on 2 wheels.


Dr. Martens are criticized for being poorly constructed with cheap material. This is true. I don't wear the same pair of shoes every day. So my Dr. Martens are only worn when I have a specific need to wear them. Motorcycle rides. Casual wear. A night out at the bars. Worship services. When I have to sit in the waiting room of a doctor or dentist. With my pattern of light use, Dr. Martens can last over a decade. Every pair I've owned, has lasted over 10 years. Even on a motorcycle, the sole is mostly on the footpeg, and the vamp on the left boot is fine with kicking the shift lever up. The worst thing that happens to my Dr. Martens is when someone spills a little sacramental wine.


These are not rugged construction boots, used in building trades. Not an ideal boot for manufacturing plants or oil refineries where there are hazardous materials which could eat away at the leather and soft rubber soles. I wouldn't wear these for climbing utility poles.


Are Dr. Martens overpriced? Not when you buy them on sale, and there's a coupon. Sometimes a reseller has them at a "clearance" price. I just bought a pair for $75, with free shipping. And they sent it UPS, next day, overnight. Are Made in Asia models worth $170? Maybe. Consider what else is sold between $150 to $200. Cole Haan, Kenneth Cole, and other brands at department stores. The Made In England models just cost more to make. I get that. A factory in England, paying prevailing wages. So maybe the extra $90 is okay, in consideration that you are supporting workers in England. Think of the very high prices of Made in USA boots, versus similar boots from other countries which sell for less.


Just my opinion that Dr. Martens buyers are buying for fashion and style. Nobody buys Dr. Martens, thinking that they are getting a "heritage" boot, for decades of wear and multiple resoles. The value of the boot has nothing to do with pricing vs quality. They are buying the big chunky boot with the yellow stitches. The value is in the fashion statement made when people see you in Dr. Martens. The shiny black is probably their most popular model, because of decades of lifestyle influencers.

To me, that's okay. It's okay to wear a cheaper boot, because you like the way that they look. The boots are not so bad that you will die. They won't kill you. Actually, the AirWair soles are probably going to be the most comfortable to walk in. They're not so expensive (like $1,000 loafers made with glue), that you need a glass of water thrown in your face. And anyone who actually needs a pair of work boots, will buy work boots. No Wildlands fire fighter or logger will wear Dr. Martens to work. So they are not the best boots, they're cheap, and I still buy them. There will always be a place for Dr. Martens in my closet.

 

[Fifty150]

These are the pair that I'm currently wearing. Not the stiff, shiny leather. No yellow stitches. Admittedly, I only wear them for high tea, or when I meet with dignitaries. So I try to use a little lotion a few times a year.

 

[Turnip]

You could also try Solovair as an alternative. This is the company that produced for Martens once these were all Made in England. Nowadays they still produce a range from fashion shoes to steel toed boots.

Got three pairs from them and they all feature thick and chunky, though butter soft leathers.