Double Helix Works - Apparition Rider

[Enik286]

New here, thoughts on this Double Helix Works rider? If anyone owns this model? Or has ordered directly from them your experience? Seems cheaper than paying markup thru USA distributor.. thx

 

[Canuck Panda]

Cross zip muholland?

one thing to point out about the Double helix fit is that they are “1930s” fit. The cutting is narrow boxy. So if the shoulder is 18.75”, the P2P” is 23” and the hem is 22”. while this is perfectly fine silhouette for half belts, for xzips I’d prefer a different fit, or any moto style straight zip too, 19.5” shoulder, 22.75” P2P and 20.75” hem, compared to the narrow boxy fit.

The curve front hem also makes the hem fit wider, and I think that’s why many people sold their mulholland, unless you size down then the top becomes uncomfortable.

of course DH offers customs. But the comparative numbers I posted is not just numbers, it’s complete different pattern base than the stock one.

 

[Enik286]

Thx, I’m just getting into Leather jackets. I have a Schott 141. Looking into getting a new one. The Muholland would be a grail piece for me. I have broad shoulders & skinny body/ arms.

Here’s additional pics w dims of the Apparition, it has buckles in the front but other than that, it’s a very clean silhouette. I think it’s a newer model.

 

[Herrvallmo]

I really like this design! like a cross-zip version of their "Hugging the cruve"/Mulholland.
Never owned a DH jacket so can't answer how they fit, but it's a really cool model at least

 

[TartuWolf]

Narrow shoulders in relation to the chest, super short body, short sleeves (for my size/chest). Doesn't look like the body has any taper so wide-ass bottom hem and waist. Definitely not a cut for me in any way. Cool jacket otherwise!

 

[Will Zach]

Narrow shoulders in relation to the chest, super short body, short sleeves (for my size/chest). Doesn't look like the body has any taper so wide-ass bottom hem and waist. Definitely not a cut for me in any way. Cool jacket otherwise!

Yes, 22" hem and 18.75" shoulder ain't right. Too wide down below.

 

[Bfd70]

Thx, I’m just getting into Leather jackets. I have a Schott 141. Looking into getting a new one. The Muholland would be a grail piece for me. I have broad shoulders & skinny body/ arms.

Here’s additional pics w dims of the Apparition, it has buckles in the front but other than that, it’s a very clean silhouette. I think it’s a newer model.

Since you mention you’re new to jackets i advise you to read up. This thread already has some good info for you. You say a mullholand would be a grail jacket for you but as you can see from info in this thread your body type is basically the exact opposite of what a mullholand would work for. Flat lay photos or modeling pictures only tell 20% of a jackets story. Unlike cloth jackets which are very forgiving and can fit most people using S, M, L, XL, leather jackets are very difficult to size in a way that’s both functional and flattering. This is why new jackets go up in the classifieds daily

 

[Enik286]

Since you mention you’re new to jackets i advise you to read up. This thread already has some good info for you. You say a mullholand would be a grail jacket for you but as you can see from info in this thread your body type is basically the exact opposite of what a mullholand would work for. Flat lay photos or modeling pictures only tell 20% of a jackets story. Unlike cloth jackets which are very forgiving and can fit most people using S, M, L, XL, leather jackets are very difficult to size in a way that’s both functional and flattering. This is why new jackets go up in the classifieds daily

Thanks, reading as much I can. All this insight really helps . I’m near Self Edge, Butterscotch, & Mister Freedom, so I’m going to check them out as well in person. Keeps my excitement & wallet in check before taking a plunge

 

[handymike]

You could also head over to Highland Park to Snake Oil Provisions and Freenote Cloth.

 

[newtojackets]

Narrow shoulders in relation to the chest, super short body, short sleeves (for my size/chest). Doesn't look like the body has any taper so wide-ass bottom hem and waist. Definitely not a cut for me in any way. Cool jacket otherwise!

My exact thoughts, looks like the shoulders are too narrow and the waist too wide, I don’t think it will look flattering

My thoughts for anyone new to this, if you’re going to buy a jacket new, buy one you can try on first. Otherwise if this doesn’t fit you’ll be out a couple of hundred dollars on resell.

If you decide to still buy online my thoughts are: If you live in the US buy a Johnson, if you live in the UK buy a Field etc. That way you can return / exchange without exorbitant shipping / customs costs

 

[dudewuttheheck]

The problem with living in LA is that none of the stores have very good leather jackets in my opinion. In fact, I'd argue most retailers in general don't. Especially raw denim stores. I love raw denim, but wow, most of the jacket brands all the raw denim stores have trash.

Only exceptions are some Mister Freedom leather jackets are good and Flat Head jackets at Self Edge are good if you're in the small % of the population that fit into their wide shoulder, narrow chest, yet still tapered patterns.

Oh and Schott's classic jackets are solid, but still too long for me.

Definitely still go to as many stores as you can and try on as much as you can and use that knowledge to buy better jackets online or by vintage jackets which is what I do.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Besides the pattern, the stitching from the pockets to the zip not meeting together really throws me off. OCD I guess.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Besides the pattern, the stitching from the pockets to the zip not meeting together really throws me off. OCD I guess.

View attachment 670962

No I'd argue that this is just truly bad design. They took an element from an existing jacket where the stitches do align and modified the jacket to a cross zip, but kept that stitching even though it no longer aligned just so they could evoke the design of other jackets. Pathetic.

 

[cbez]

I don't mind that part. It's subjective to have them meet at the same point vs. be at on the same angle/align to the pockets.

 

[BloodEagle]

To me it is a weird Frankenstein's monster of a jacket and I think it looks off in every way

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hmm, I might have came off a bit wrong before. My bad. Let see if I can fix that.

First, I do really like the idea of the design, xzip mullholland. The thing is I would want the hem to be straight instead of front curve with a drop, especially if it is a xzip. Straight zip with front drop is ok but on xzips they will flare out towards the side even when they're smaller hem widths. Most xzips I have from motorcycle jacket makers have straight front hem.

Second, I had the straight zip version of the DH jacket, the hem linear length on the size 44 is 44". On the straight zip I am ok with it, but for Xzip I would much prefer it to be tighter, like the Schott 613 in size 44, which has linear hem length of 42", so 2" more drop to the waist. The 60s cutting is also a bit wider at the front shoulder, giving the jacket more V shape than the 30s cutting which is II shape. Again for straight zip the 30s cutting works but for xzip I would really recommend looking for ones with a bit more V in the over fit.

My suggestion is to try on the Double Helix jacket and the Schott 613 back to back in the same size tag, and you can see the difference in the fit. You can always custom order a Double Helix to fit like the 613 in theory through their custom order program, assuming you like the 613 fit better. Or you may just like the Double Helix fit which is ok. But you have to try it out, two different fits back to back to know for sure.

Double Helix stock fit vs Schott 613 fit, one is II shape and the other is \ / shape. I am ok with straight zips having I I shape but for xzip I prefer \ / shape, just personal preference.

If I were to custom order the Double Helix jacket to the 613 fit (44) I would order it in the size 46 pattern, sized down one size in sleeve and size down two sizes in the torso. And If I were to keep the curve hem I would have to go to a 24" back length. For 25" back length I would order it with straight hem. That would be the difference between the two pattern blocks. You need the wider front shoulder width to give that V look, the P2P on the 30s pattern is actually wider than the 60s pattern in the same tag size, but wider front shoulder width is the only thing that can give the V look, and you need to start with a bigger size to get that cutting and then narrow down.

 

[unhatted]

No I'd argue that this is just truly bad design. They took an element from an existing jacket where the stitches do align and modified the jacket to a cross zip, but kept that stitching even though it no longer aligned just so they could evoke the design of other jackets. Pathetic.

To be fair you rarely see a cal where these are exactly the same height! I don’t think that’s a design cue so much as part of their rugged charm though…

 

[Herrvallmo]

No I'd argue that this is just truly bad design. They took an element from an existing jacket where the stitches do align and modified the jacket to a cross zip, but kept that stitching even though it no longer aligned just so they could evoke the design of other jackets. Pathetic.

I have to disagree with this one, I see a lot of old vintage x-zip from the "OG's" were the two "stitch-lines" never meets like this one.

Maybe the rest of the pattern is popo, but just because the stitches don't meet I wouldn't call it a bad design personally.

Still kinda want to try out a jacket from DH(maybe the Frisco or Hugging the cruve hmm) as they seem like a good value maker especially if you can get a 10% or so coupon via Buyee or similar proxy service.

Another thing I've noticed is that DH-jackets very rarely is up on the usual auction sites(ebay, mercari, yahoo) which in my books seems like a good sign for quality. As I can't see how they don't sell shitloads of jackets as they play in the same league(or cheaper) as Y'2, The Flat Head, Fine Creek and so on, which I se LOADS of out there but very few DH. Maybe they produce a lot less, or people are keeping their jackets

 

[Aloysius]

To me it is a weird Frankenstein's monster of a jacket and I think it looks off in every way

Yeah every element about this jacket looks off in some way, the proportions being the worst of it.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

I don't mind that part. It's subjective to have them meet at the same point vs. be at on the same angle/align to the pockets.

Yeah, it's the pattern that's more of a deal breaker

Also find the placement of the waist cinches odd. They'll definitely be visible up front as they're right under the pockets.