Double breasted conversion?

[jeffconnors]

Is it possible / practical to change a 6 on 1 DB suit to a 6 on 2 DB suit?
I have many 6 on 1 suit and I prefer 6 of 2 for a snugger fit.
Could one just move the button , make a button hole and re crease the lapels?[huh]

 

[Derek WC]

I made a double breasted suit single breasted as it did not fit, but I didn't do any alterations on the waist or anything.

 

[jeffconnors]

I ware mostly DB suits that fit, I just really like 6 on 2 and would like to make all my 6 on 1 , 6 on 2, they just look better

 

[Derek WC]

Oh yeah, looking at your first post, I have made a 6/1 into a 6/2. Just make a buttonhole, cut it out, and move the button over. I'd recommend you try it on a jacket you don't necessarily care that much for first.

You might also have to take in the part where the buttonhole is, because from what I've noticed on most 6/1's it seems to bow out, making it look unseemly when you button it.

 

[Orgetorix]

I had this one converted from a 4x1 to a 4x2, which is the same operation. The thread used on the added buttonhole is a slightly different color than the preexisting hole, but it's not very noticeable.

Before and after pics:

 

[cookie]

Looks pretty 1930s with those lapels like that with the points going horizontal.

 

[Mr Vim]

Okay, so what is it when a double breasted suit requires the very top button to be buttoned, as well as the middle button? I've seen it called high gorged, can you just repress the lapels and make it a 6 on 2? What would that be called other than a high gorge, 6 on 3?

 

[Orgetorix]

Looks pretty 1930s with those lapels like that with the points going horizontal.

It's the standard Ralph Lauren DB lapel. He's been doing them with that shape for decades. This suit is from the late '80s or early '90s, when Ralph was selling suits that had a particularly vintage-accurate cut--especially in the trousers, which are high-waisted and full cut.

He's still doing it, in fact. This is a recent Polo DB, and you can see that while the cut of the jacket has changed a lot (higher gorge, shorter jacket, higher waistline and buttoning point, trimmer sleeves), the lapel shape is still basically the same.

Okay, so what is it when a double breasted suit requires the very top button to be buttoned, as well as the middle button? I've seen it called high gorged, can you just repress the lapels and make it a 6 on 2? What would that be called other than a high gorge, 6 on 3?

When there are 6 buttons, you never, never button the top one.* The top set is purely ornamental. You can button either or both of the lower two.

When there are 4 buttons, it depends on the way the jacket's cut. Sometimes they're cut so you can only button the bottom one. My suit pictured above was originally that way. Sometimes they're cut so you can button either of them. That's what I prefer, and that's why I had the second buttonhole added.


*I realize there are some exceptions from the '60s and from modern designers like Thom Browne. They don't count.

 

[Mr Vim]

Right, I was looking at this photo where a gent has his top button buttoned.

It looked all right, as the top button was in line with the others rather than being offset. So that is where I became confused.

 

[Orgetorix]

IMO it's a niche look that was questionable even in the '60s and remains so today. Not a classic look, and not one that makes one look good.

The great thing about the classic button stance, where the top buttons are set wider apart, is that it echoes the line of the lapels and draws attention to a man's shoulders. Which gives him a nice, well-built, v-shaped silhouette. The 6x3 stance, by contrast, makes a man look like either a pencil or a fireplug, depending on his build.

 

[Qirrel]

IMO it's a niche look that was questionable even in the '60s and remains so today. Not a classic look, and not one that makes one look good.

The great thing about the classic button stance, where the top buttons are set wider apart, is that it echoes the line of the lapels and draws attention to a man's shoulders. Which gives him a nice, well-built, v-shaped silhouette. The 6x3 stance, by contrast, makes a man look like either a pencil or a fireplug, depending on his build.

Hmmm. A very classic look in my opinion. Provided the right man wears it of course.

 

[Tomasso]

Hmmm. A very classic look in my opinion. Provided the right man wears it of course.

 

[Torpedo]

This one I changed from 6x1 to a 4x2.

 

[Cobden]

Seen a few 6x3 and 8x4 pre golden age (plus, of course, on military uniforms...I think the German Navy had 14x6's!), mainly in the belle epoque and 1910's

 

[Tailor Tom]

My thoughts...

Going back to the original question.
Yes it can be done. you can add a button hole etc and enjoy your suit.

In reality it is more complex, due to canvas, tape, lapel shape, etc.

The true break line (Roll) of the lapel is dictated by how the canvas is cut and stitched on the interior of the garment.

If you just add a button hole, the roll might look off a bit. On the other hand the weight and fabric might compensate for it.

 

[Orgetorix]

On the other hand the weight and fabric might compensate for it.

Which is why my tailor was OK with trying it on my suit: heavy flannel.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I didn't buy this book because that guy on the cover. I think it looks bad...and the small brim too. Sorry for fftopic:

The other examples worked really well! I didn't know it would be possible.
Well done Orgetorix and Torpedo:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Zamyatin]

I have a 6x3 1940's suit that is a personal favorite of mine. Black, the heaviest fabric I've ever seen in a suit. Heavier than my old modern overcoats. It's like wearing armor, it's heavy, but it makes you feel strong! Someone on these forums suggested it was a naval uniform before any details were added. It fits like a glove, and when I wear all black and white I look like a Bond villain.