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Do you own a Tux?

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,069
Location
London, UK
Mike K. said:
Any thoughts on this one?
I know, the tail coat is virtually extinct but I think it is just too classy to give up completely.

Tails will only die whenever nobody wears them..... I think we should all be wearing them more often in order to revive the look!

This one is being offered for sale at a local store. It's 100% wool, and my size. The only things I would change would be:
1. Change the waist coat from white to black.

Nooooo! As others have said, white is proper with white tie. If you opt for a black waistcoat, you run the risk of looking like you're in grey tie -i.e. tails with black waistcoat and black bow tie.... which will get you taken to be the waiter / butler all night.

2. Get rid of the pleated shirt in favor of a stiff, plain-front shirt.

If memory serves, pleated fronts were considered to be less formal, suited to tropical wear with a white or ivory dj? Do go for a plain pique front (I'm afraid I cheat and wear one with an attached collar. Looks as good to me, but YMMV of course). DO also change the shirt studs from black to mother of pearl or similar (think: colour of tie when looking at shade of shirt studs). Oh, and of course changing the bow tie in that display is a given - it appears to be a pre-tied confection? Cotton pique is the desired option here. Slightly less easy to tie than silk, but sits beautifully and has more of a classic look to it (as well as being "correct" if we're following the rules).
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,069
Location
London, UK
One thing I've noticed...... here in the UK in the last couple of weeks there have been a whole rash of cheap tuxes going on sale. Supermarket own-brand type stuff, in the likes of Asda (I think they're owned by Walmart?) - £35 for jacket and trousers. :eek: Selling off the back of them being cheaper than renting - a rental on a decent suit is now £50. nothingl ike the same quality, of course, and all poly or poly-viscose, but nevertheless, interesting that there is obviously enough demand for these outlets to feel it worth getting into black tie to that degree. Sure, they might be very cheap and very nasty, but on the flipside, if that cheap £35 purchase encourages someone to get into black tie, they might upgrade later when they realise just how nice it is to wear and have in the wardrobe.... cheap tuxes as a gateway drug, if you like. and in any case, I'd rather see evening events full of cheap tuxes than cheap lounge suits. lol

As to detailing on the supermarket djs.... they seem mostly to be two button, and tend to have pocket flaps: as often pointed out elsewhere, this means that they are cheaper to make, being produced to a pre-existing pattern for regular sports jackets. But here's a thing: whether it's Asda, or a little more upmarket at the likes of H&M, I've noticed that a significant proportion of these are sporting a thirties-style peak lapel. Interesting twist. Probably again reflects an emerging revival of peak lapels on sb suits (and presumably as they have been the default on db jacket forever, easily grafted on to the sb pattern anyhow), but still interesting to see. Makes a nice change from the notch lapels everywhere and even the ubiquitous shawl collar (much as I still enjoy the look of a shawl).
 

Lensmaster

One of the Regulars
Messages
177
Location
Saginaw, Michigan
I have a shawl collar single breasted DJ, a pleated turn-down collar shirt and a pique wing collar shirt, cummerbund and pretied tie (but now I want to get a self-tie bowtie). I haven't worn it yet but I have several events this holiday season I plan to wear it. It seems people must buy formal wear for the holidays and then sell it. When I was looking to buy this stuff on OFAS in January and February there was a lot listed, when I've looked recently I haven't seen much there. I want to get a waistcoat. I know both white and black are appropriate but does anyone have an opinion on which color looks better with black tie? Also if anyone knows of a place that sells sized bowties let me know.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,069
Location
London, UK
I believe both were worn during the 30s. Visually, I prefer a black waistcoat, both as a matter of simple aesthetics and that it adds that little further difference to a black tie ensemble as opposed to white tie. White waistcoats would have been worn earlier, though, as folks made the transition from wearing white to black tie out to formal evening occasions. There's a great site out there called somethingl ike "Ultimate Black Tie Guide" - i can't find it on google, but I've seen a link in a lounger's sig (maybe the author? can't remember!)

ETA: I just skimmed over the black-tie entry in Wikipedia, and that says that there was at one time a tradition that white waistcoats were worn with black tie when ladies would be present....
 

Orgetorix

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,241
Location
Louisville, KY...and I'm a 42R, 7 1/2
With a shawl collar DJ, I'd stick with a black waistcoat. The shawl seems relatively less formal than the peak lapel, and since the black waistcoat is the less formal of the two, it goes well with the shawl collar The white waistcoat with a peak-lapel DJ is a splendid look, but it's about as formal as semi-formal attire gets.

img0044dt6.jpg
 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
I finally took my Oxxford double breasted tuxedo in for alterations on Saturday. I can't wait to get it. It will make its debut when my wife sings in the annual 'Messiah' concert on December 14. I will post pictures when the time comes.
 

Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
AlanC said:
I finally took my Oxxford double breasted tuxedo in for alterations on Saturday. I can't wait to get it. It will make its debut when my wife sings in the annual 'Messiah' concert on December 14. I will post pictures when the time comes.
We cannot wait to see pics of you in it. It really is a lovely jacket.
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
I just received a new old tux purchased from our esteemed friend and colleague Orgetirix. Tho the waist needs a little letting out (my own waist having long since let itself out) the fit is perfect. I will post pix of humble self in full mufti as soon as the aforementioned alterations are complete. It has that wonderful horse blanket wool quality that only an old suit can give. The feeling of wearing quality just can't be beat!
 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
I keep chipping away at my black tie ensemble. The dinner jacket comes back from the tailor next week, but this morning I bought this on ebay:

b7e51yg6.jpg


All silk white opera scarf made in England. I don't know how old it is, but according to the seller it was in "long-term storage" and is new old stock. I paid $31 delivered from the UK.

Today I'm picking up this from a local men's shop, a Hanauer faille bowtie to coordinate with the grosgrain facing on my dinner jacket (a tie-your-own, of course)

36901bv2.jpg

(stock photo)

And posted in the cufflinks thread earlier is this vintage dress set via ebay for $10:

p1011550yn4.jpg


I'm expecting this silk pocket square from Kent Wang:

508207173_e047351da6.jpg


I also posted these in the suspenders/braces thread earlier, but I thrifted these vintage white braces, which I think will work nicely:

p1050979zi1.jpg


I have no need for waistcoat or cummerbund and my dj is double breasted, but I will see what silk hose offerings the shop has when I pick up the bowtie today. It all has to come together by Dec. 14.
 

Mark from Plano

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
Dallas, Texas
AlanC,

Awesome. I've been thinking of adding a white silk scarf to my kit.

I found a new alterations tailor recently with bespoke level skills who has been performing some fairly major surgery on a number of my coats including all three of my dinner jackets to account for my recent weight loss (about 25 pounds) and my Quasimodo-like low and forward right shoulder.

I just got back the JAB tartan plaid dinner jacket. Paid $58 for it two years ago and $250 to him for the alterations, but it looks AMAZING! Still to go is the Hickey SB PL jacket and the JAB cream shawl collar dinner jacket.

She-who-must-be-obeyed and I are attending a Winter party held by our dance studio (ballroom lessons twice a week) in a couple of weeks and I'm thinking of wearing the tartan dinner jacket. Question: My main tuxedo has satin lapels, so all of my accessories are satin. However, the tartan jacket has grosgrain. I REALLY don't want to go out and buy a second cummerbund and bow-tie (I have 3 already) to wear with the Tartan jacket. On a faux pas scale of 1-10 I'm thinking that mixing the grosgrain lapels with a satin 'bund and tie is a 2 or 3. Tell me it'll be ok. :D

BTW: I have that same Kent Wang pocket square. I'm wearing it today and expect it will see lots of use with my formalwear this winter.
 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
Mark, I think better to have a grosgrain tie with satin lapels than the other way around for some reason. I certainly wouldn't break the bank getting a satin tie, although you might keep your eye on ebay for an inexpensive option. Satin is much easier to find than grosgrain.

As mentioned in my post above, I picked these up yesterday, silk hose by Pantherella, grosgrain bowtie by Hanauer:

p1011759so4.jpg


I like the points on the bow, and I wanted something other than plain black for the socks. I think the pindots add interest while still being understated.
 

Choeki

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Elgin, IL
I have two midnight blue tuxedos, one with a shawl collar and the other with a wide peaked collar; and one black tuxedo (ex rental) with a single button and notched collar. I've found that a lot of ex-rentals have shiny areas on the seat of the pants, but the solution is apparently to do a once-over with a fine grit emery paper (better than 660).

I've been trying to buy a tailcoat in Japan for a while, but I have had a hard time finding one in my size in second-hand shops. Since "diplomatic dress" (black tailcoat, striped trousers, vest, and sometimes a top hat) is still used quite heavily in even mundane engagements there are usually four or five jackets available in most shops. Most are usually around a 35" to 38" chest, with one exception I ran into in a shop two towns over which fit me fairly well. However, I had to take a pass on it because it was a dark blue color with a sparkling silver thread woven into it in a manner that made it look like a stage magician's costume. :(
 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
From last night...

oxxforddj07dec14dv6.jpg


p1060381ay5.jpg


2007dec14messiahrn1.jpg


(My wife would complain at the posting of this picture, but she had just finished singing Messiah so not at her freshest. That's her required concert dress she would also want pointed out as she hates it.)
 

Mark from Plano

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
Location
Dallas, Texas
AlanC. Great tux. Too bad about the Kent Wang. I have the same one and wore it last night to a party. Didn't wear the tux, though. As it turned out I could have, there were a handful of guys who did (out of 500 or so guests at the party). I wore my charcoal grey HF SB PL 1B suit with a double breasted vest, a purple and black woven silk macclefield tie, white shirt and Kent Wang square.

I'm planning to wear my tartan dinner jacket to a dinner/dance tomorrow night. I'll try to post pics.
 

Chad Sanborn

A-List Customer
Messages
428
Location
Atlanta, Ga
Mike K. said:
Any thoughts on this one?
I know, the tail coat is virtually extinct but I think it is just too classy to give up completely. This one is being offered for sale at a local store. It's 100% wool, and my size. The only things I would change would be:
1. Change the waist coat from white to black.
2. Get rid of the pleated shirt in favor of a stiff, plain-front shirt.

Does the lapel notch seem high, or could it just be the way the ensemble was hung for photographing?
25_1_b.JPG
This is a B E A Utiful tails coat. The higher lapels add a distinguished look to you when you wear them. The longer lines and the point at the top of the lapel, make you look taller.
Sadly today, you don't find tails with lapels like this. I have even seen them with *GASP* NOTCHED lapels. Yikes!

Chad
 

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