Do you own a Tux?

[The Wingnut]

Wow, very nice, Stanley! They're hard to find with the proper waistcoat.

I have two tuxedos and I'm very slowly working on putting a white tie ensemble together. I figure with the amount that's spent on wedding, cocktail and evening dresses, no man should ever get married or attend a black or white tie event in a high schooler's prom outfit!

 

[PADDY]

1930's DB English Tux.

It's in the wardrobe at home right now, but it's dated about 1936 or 38.
Trews are family clan ancient tartan in a traditional military cut and fishtail back.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

OK, so the fit is damn near perfect! I'm really happy with it.

I'm not sure the waistcoat is actually correct for this suit. The pattern is weird. My guess is someone threw these together because it seemed to go well enough. I doubt it's the original waistcoat for this tux.

And, I'm going to have to have the trousers altered as I'm swimming in the waist a little and there are no belt loops (and no, daily visits to In N Out are not an option... well, they are, but it wouldn't do anything).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I'm not sure the waistcoat is actually correct for this suit. The pattern is weird. My guess is someone threw these together because it seemed to go well enough. I doubt it's the original waistcoat for this tux.

By "pattern," do you mean a design woven into the fabric? If so, then the waistcoat *may* indeed have been bought at the same time as the tux.


In Europe (and in America, too, but only until the 1920s), it was typical to make black waistcoats in the same wool fabric as the tuxedo. However, in America in the '20s and '30s, the black waistcoats started to be made of silk pique, grosgrain, figured patterns, or even brocade. They rarely matched the fabric of the tuxedo itself, or even of the silk lapels. Hence, black evening waistcoats were usually sold separately from the tux -- the customer could "mix n' match" vests with jackets.

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[StanleyVanBuren]

Well in that case, maybe I'm ok.

Here's a closeup (waistcoat is on the left) to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

 

[scotrace]

Pictures, man, pictures!!!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Well in that case, maybe I'm ok.

You're fine ... that vest is very typically 1920s/'30s. "Mix n' match," as I said earlier. It would have been worn with a tuxedo just like yours.


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[CharlestonBows]

Tux

I have 2 DJ's, both year round fabrics. A one button peak, and a 2 button notch. I also have a cream summer jacket. I've been lucky enough to have several opportunities to wear all, either on formal cruise or around town. (Charleston has, it seems, an over-abundance of these types of affairs, and law school only adds to the number!)

I would encourage you to pick up one, especially if you can get it at a price. But don't be afraid to make an investment in one. With rental prices where they are nowdays, if you wear it just a couple of times it's paid for itself. Plus you look a million times better than you ever could in a rental, and you don't have that odd feeling of being in someone else's trousers (does anyone else get that way?)

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Is it acceptable to wear braces under the waistcoat? My trousers have the buttons for braces (and no belt loops) but I'm worried it might look too busy.

 

[CharlestonBows]

Well, number one, you never would wear a belt. So thats why no belt loops. So unless your trousers are spot on in the waist, then I say, practically, go for the braces. From an sartorial and apperance standpoint, go with formal whites as opposed to formal blacks in order to keep the busy factor to a minimum.

Other ideas?

 

[Vintage Betty]

Warning! A lady is present!

Who knew there were so many handsome gentlemen in the Lounge?

I purchased for my husband (with my husband's consent) three tuxes, which I believe are all circa 1890-1930 as a guess. We found these over the years, and one served as his wedding tux. For those of you who attended Bing's in the East Bay earlier this year, he was wearing his cutaway wedding tux I think.

I know at least two are black cutaway, and can't remember about the third. We also purchased the matching 1930's cumberbund/bow tie combo, and as you can probably guess, various 1930's accessories. He has two modern tux shirts with wingtails, no frills, thank you.

Since we ballroom dance, he looks absolutely dashing in tails as we fly across the floor, if I do say so. He also had a couple vintage top hats which he didn't like, so those were sold a while ago. He also has vintage spats, which he doesn't wear.

We had a custom silk vest made for our wedding, but I don't think he's worn that since the wedding. One pair of pants with a subtle satin stripe are custom made reproduction, courtesy of his mother. The pattern was purchased from somewhere is authentic 1930's as those things go.

He also has a couple vintage bow ties, but those don't look very good on him an have only been paired with his tux(es) once or twice.

We have gotten a tremendous amount of use out of the tuxes, between various costuming events I dragged him to as well as ballroom dancing events. Frankly, I'm surprised they are still usable.

I think every man who entertains regularly should own a tux, and one that is tailored for HIM, and not the fashion of the era. I've seen some of the handsomest men who are elderly in a fantastic tux made for them, and some really horribly fashioned young new grooms.[huh]

If you are interested in a tux for yourself, and aren't in a hurry, shop with a friend who will be honest and who has a camera. I'd also recommend you move around in it, bend, bend over, stretch and test the armholes, etc. Do you want to drive in it? Do you want to dance in it? Or just stand there? Whatever reason, be sure to try the tux for the activity (crossing your arms, reach over a table for a drink, etc) before you buy to make sure you are comfortable and that the shoulder pads, if any, sit correctly and return to the correct placement when doing whatever activity you are interested in doing. Oh and one more thing: The biggest problem we had with vintage tuxes was that the armholes weren't big enough.

Hope this helps.

Vintage Betty

 

[Vintage Betty]

By "pattern," do you mean a design woven into the fabric? If so, then the waistcoat *may* indeed have been bought at the same time as the tux.


In Europe (and in America, too, but only until the 1920s), it was typical to make black waistcoats in the same wool fabric as the tuxedo. However, in America in the '20s and '30s, the black waistcoats started to be made of silk pique, grosgrain, figured patterns, or even brocade. They rarely matched the fabric of the tuxedo itself, or even of the silk lapels. Hence, black evening waistcoats were usually sold separately from the tux -- the customer could "mix n' match" vests with jackets.

.

Yes, I had one of those given to me, but it was in such poor condition I couldn't give it to my husband and had to throw it away. I actually tried to give it away, but no one wanted the fabric.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

The biggest problem we had with vintage tuxes was that the armholes weren't big enough.

Uh oh... here we go...

 

[Marc Chevalier]

From an sartorial and apperance standpoint, go with formal whites as opposed to formal blacks in order to keep the busy factor to a minimum.

Other ideas?

I'm not a stickler for all traditions, but I do believe in knowing what they are before deciding to break them.

So, here goes. *Traditionally,* black or midnight blue braces were worn with black tie (tuxedo), while white braces were worn with white tie (evening tails). In other words, the color of the braces matched the color of the bowtie and waistcoat. If a summertime cummerbund was worn in a color other than black or midnight blue -- burgundy comes to mind -- then the braces had to be burgundy as well.


In the Golden Era, accessories tended to match each other, one way or another.

.

 

[CharlestonBows]

All very true concerning the conventions (even though the dinner suit, in its own way was a snub to convention).

The question posed was based on appearances, though. I still think that, based purely on aesthetics, I would still opt for white with a waistcoat. The beauty of formal wear is its simplicity - basic black & white, basic lines, very trim and correct. So I say just keep it simple and blank.

But then again, I eschew the formal waistcoat, so there it is! Hahaha.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I recently made a major investment and acquired a John Varvatos Star USA Tux. I initially didn't want to buy it. But my wife said she liked it because of it's more "modern fit".
Definitely not my father's kind of tux. I personally never liked the penguin get-ups that dad used to sport. I have to say that I am pleased with it's closer fit, and it is much cleaner under the arms and sides.

 

[CharlestonBows]

But my wife said she liked it because of it's more "modern fit" ... I have to say that I am pleased with it's closer fit, and it is much cleaner under the arms and sides.

Not a "modern" fit, a correct fit! :lol:

 

[Edward]

Is it acceptable to wear braces under the waistcoat? My trousers have the buttons for braces (and no belt loops) but I'm worried it might look too busy.

As suggested above, white braces look more formal than black (and of course as with waistcoats, novelty, cartoon character print is a mortal sin). Though bearing in mind the purpose of a waistcoat and that it will not be removed all evening, the braces won't be seen anyhow so no danger of the looking "busy."

ETA: Of course - now that Edward has read the rest of the thread - he bows to Marc's superior wisdom, and the braces should indeed match the tie. D'oh..... Well, I was out late last night, and it was a school night to boot!

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

If the braces can be seen by others, there's something wrong, so in theory you could have fancy designs.

If you have a white/ivory jacket, too, and want to buy only one pair of braces, white might be your choice in case the white jacket isn't opaque enough.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If the braces can be seen by others, there's something wrong, so in theory you could have fancy designs.

Ah, but the braces will be seen by the person for whom you'll eventually disrobe. Assuming that this gentlewoman has a stolid sense of sartorial decorum (gor, what a phrase! :eusa_doh, you'll not want your monstrously mismatched braces to make her run retching out of the bloody boudoir ... or will you?


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