Do try this at home: leather jacket repair tips

[Fonzie]

Leather jacket repairs can be costly and can sometimes even exceed the jacket's value. Luckily some fixes are easy to do yourself. Let's share our experiences, tips and tricks.

Busted auto lock slider

When a zipperslider moves up or down on its own while wearing the jacket, the auto lock pin might be defect.

Based on the slider puller position, the locking pin should lock/unlock the slider:

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When you look closely you can see how in this case the pin has been grinded down, which makes the slider go up or down on its own. The easiest way to fix this is by replacing the slider.

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The one on the right is the old one, the one on the left the replacement. You can clearly see the locking pin on the right is shorter.

In order to replace the slider, the zipper's top stop needs to be removed. Simply use pliers and some force to pull it off, or wiggle it open using a small screwdriver. Be careful not to puncture the tape.

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Once removed, the old slider comes off and the new one can be installed. Make sure the replacement fits the size of the zipper. Most vintage/repro jackets feature #5 zippers. Newer ones often come with #8 or #10 size zippers.

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After installing the replacement slider, use the pliers again to reinstall the old top stop or install a new one.

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Job completed. As a bonus, the Talon paperclip pull looks much nicer too.

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I really love the way you explained this process, it’s super helpful.
I have to do this operation on an ELMC Windward that the slider has exploded on my hands and I feel confident to do it after seeing your instructions.

Now, please, where can I find one of those Talon paper clip sliders?

My EBay search has proved pointless the last few weeks, maybe because of my location in Australia. I’m not sure where else to look for them.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Marc mndt]

I really love the way you explained this process, it’s super helpful.
I have to do this operation on an ELMC Windward that the slider has exploded on my hands and I feel confident to do it after seeing your instructions.

Now, please, where can I find one of those Talon paper clip sliders?

My EBay search has proved pointless the last few weeks, maybe because of my location in Australia. I’m not sure where else to look for them.
Thanks in advance.

The zippers on the ELMC jackets aren't great, the slider on my Californian exploded as well.

The zipper on my Californian is a #5, I think the one on your Windward is too. I don't think I've ever seen a paperclip slider for a #5, they're bigger, #8 or #10.

The good news is that a vintage slider will fit your Windward. I put a 30s fan Talon on mine. Much better quality than any repro.

You can get one here.

 

[Fonzie]

The zippers on the ELMC jackets aren't great, the slider on my Californian exploded as well.

The zipper on my Californian is a #5, I think the one on your Windward is too. I don't think I've ever seen a paperclip slider for a #5, they're bigger, #8 or #10.

The good news is that a vintage slider will fit your Windward. I put a 30s fan Talon on mine. Much better quality than any repro.

You can get one here.

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Thanks Marc, very helpful as usual.

I ended up buying the one you linked, I would have never thought I’d pay AU$108 for a zipper slider, but seeing how good it looks on your Californian I had to.
How did you clean yours to make it look so good?

Yeah, I love ELMC jackets, but the zippers they use are crap, the one in my Black Californian also broke the same way yours did but I glued it back in a way that I can still use it, for now.
The one in the ELMC Windward is completely blown.
Sucks, but that Talon fan looks so much better, I’m excited to get it installed now.
Thanks mate.

 

[Marc mndt]

I would have never thought I’d pay AU$108 for a zipper slider,

It's a lot of money but vintage zippers are expensive for good reason, they're great quality.

Getting them from vintage women's purses is actually the cheapest way. When zippers like this are offered separately on eBay they're usually a lot more expensive.

How did you clean yours to make it look so good?

They came like this, from a pair of children's shoes lol.

 

[TartuWolf]

Vinegar and toothbrush will work. Not to polish per se, though, just to remove verdigris and oxidation.

Thank you for the Vinegar tip, worked great for cleaning up the hardware of a jacket I just received from Japan.
Both snaps and zippers work and engage better after the cleaning.
No negative effect noticed on the leather or the zipper tape.
Before and after:

 

[Bahabp100]

The pocket flap is missing most of its topcoat.

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I started by applying beeswax based colorless shoe cream. I chose not to use black shoe cream because I don't want the leather to look like new.

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It already looks a lot better. Next step is to put on some topcoat. Once again I used colorless product.

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Here's the end result. The leather reconditioned, a nice sheen but still lots of character.

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Looks smooth as a baby’s bottom wow!!

 

[Fonzie]

The zippers on the ELMC jackets aren't great, the slider on my Californian exploded as well.

The zipper on my Californian is a #5, I think the one on your Windward is too. I don't think I've ever seen a paperclip slider for a #5, they're bigger, #8 or #10.

The good news is that a vintage slider will fit your Windward. I put a 30s fan Talon on mine. Much better quality than any repro.

You can get one here.

View attachment 594790 View attachment 594787 View attachment 594788

I forgot to post this before, but thanks again @Marc mndt
I replaced the zipper pull with the vintage one you pointed me to and it works like a charm. It was a 10 minute process, purely because I was freaking out I’d damage it, but it’s actually a very simple replacement to do.
Here’s the result, it’s much nicer looking, efficient and stronger:

 

[PeterRocco]

I forgot to post this before, but thanks again @Marc mndt
I replaced the zipper pull with the vintage one you pointed me to and it works like a charm. It was a 10 minute process, purely because I was freaking out I’d damage it, but it’s actually a very simple replacement to do.
Here’s the result, it’s much nicer looking, efficient and stronger:

Very Nice!

 

[Marc mndt]

I forgot to post this before, but thanks again @Marc mndt
I replaced the zipper pull with the vintage one you pointed me to and it works like a charm. It was a 10 minute process, purely because I was freaking out I’d damage it, but it’s actually a very simple replacement to do.
Here’s the result, it’s much nicer looking, efficient and stronger:

Great job. Those vintage sliders are made to last.

 

[ton312]

I installed a snap at the base of the main zip on my Natal. Should be standard on all crosszips as it really does help reduce stress. I went through three snaps before I got it to stick. This leather is god awful thick.

 

[Will Zach]

I installed a snap at the base of the main zip on my Natal. Should be standard on all crosszips as it really does help reduce stress. I went through three snaps before I got it to stick. This leather is god awful thick.
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File a patent, quick, and collect royalties, if this is a new idea.

 

[ton312]

File a patent, quick, and collect royalties, if this is a new idea.

No original scholarship here, I stole the idea from Bates!

I think Brooks and Langlitz do it too

 

[JMax]

No original scholarship here, I stole the idea from Bates!
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I think Brooks and Langlitz do it too

LW LT B also. Definitely should be standard.

 

[VansonRider]

Hmm…
I need a Natal or US Made Co. those are NICE.

 

[ton312]

Hmm…
I need a Natal or US Made Co. those are NICE.

You really do man. I see from your handle you’re a Vanson guy, I am too and believe they make the best gear in the biz. Natal/Kerr compare very favorably in all ways. This jacket reminds me very much of the Model E, but less fussy. The fit on these is very athletic and intentionally rider built. The hide on this jacket is identical to Vansons 90’s era comp weight, but a bit thicker. It’s a no bullshit piece of gear.

 

[Aloysius]

No original scholarship here, I stole the idea from Bates!
View attachment 613072
I think Brooks and Langlitz do it too

Peter's, Langlitz, and (late) Buco too.

 

[PeterRocco]

I installed a snap at the base of the main zip on my Natal. Should be standard on all crosszips as it really does help reduce stress. I went through three snaps before I got it to stick. This leather is god awful thick.
View attachment 612998 View attachment 612999

That’s a Great Idea.

 

[VansonRider]

I’ll be keeping an eye out…
I just picked up a track suit (a second hand Vanson, natch) and I need to move some jackets that… let’s just say they shrank…

You really do man. I see from your handle you’re a Vanson guy, I am too and believe they make the best gear in the biz. Natal/Kerr compare very favorably in all ways. This jacket reminds me very much of the Model E, but less fussy. The fit on these is very athletic and intentionally rider built. The hide on this jacket is identical to Vansons 90’s era comp weight, but a bit thicker. It’s a no bullshit piece of gear.
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[newtojackets]

Just bought this vintage jacket. Leather doesn’t feel dry, but sleeves have lost some colour. Would neatsfoot oil do the trick?

 

[VansonRider]

You really do man. I see from your handle you’re a Vanson guy, I am too and believe they make the best gear in the biz. Natal/Kerr compare very favorably in all ways. This jacket reminds me very much of the Model E, but less fussy. The fit on these is very athletic and intentionally rider built. The hide on this jacket is identical to Vansons 90’s era comp weight, but a bit thicker. It’s a no bullshit piece of gear.
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I found this for couch change!

I’m still looking for a USMCo Natel Natel cross zip, but I’ve got a weakness for the unusual, and I dig the black & tan on this coat!

These are seller pics, and it looks a thousand times better worn and in person. The contrast is a lot subtler in natural lighting.

I’ll try to get some fit pics but my wife thinks I’m weird enough just belonging to an “old clothes website” so I'm reduced to using the timer setting on my ancient Iphone...