Do try this at home: leather jacket repair tips

[PeterRocco]

Hi. Thank You. I just bought it from Amazon. Thanks for the Help.

 

[Jon Crow]

Is there any way to soften leather? This Cal has a lot of wrinkles around this collar snap, and I'm worried they may tear the hide, so I'd like to know if there's anything I can do to decrease them. The best scenario would be removing them, but I know using heat iron isn't a good idea -maybe hot steam?
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Try Sapo leather oil in the tin also

 

[Marc mndt]

Here's another restoration project. It may not look like much but I've been looking for one of these for years.

This is the pic from the eBay listing.

It's a mid 40s Phillips 66 gas station attendant jacket.

More often than not these jackets are missing the patch but they're easily recognizable by the big pocket welts and the relatively high placement of the handwarmer pockets.

There are different versions of the jacket: some have a plain back, others have back gussets. Some have single pocket welts, other double. Some are horsehide, others steerhide.

The condition isn't great but the jacket has potential

Let's start with addressing the wrinkles. This method is tricky as the seams might pop and the lining may tear but AFAIK it's the only way to fix the wrinkles.

The side adjuster buckles are quite crappy, one of them is deformed. I carefully bent it back into shape using a pair of pliers.

 

[Monitor]

Here's another restoration project. It may not look like much but I've been looking for one of these for years.

This is the pic from the eBay listing.

View attachment 659112

It's a mid 40s Phillips 66 gas station attendant jacket. View attachment 659117

More often than not these jackets are missing the patch but they're easily recognizable by the big pocket welts and the relatively high placement of the handwarmer pockets.

There are different versions of the jacket: some have a plain back, others have back gussets. Some have single pocket welts, other double. Some are horsehide, others steerhide.

View attachment 659133 View attachment 659134

View attachment 659116 View attachment 659115


The condition isn't great but the jacket has potential

Let's start with addressing the wrinkles. This method is tricky as the seams might pop and the lining may tear but AFAIK it's the only way to fix the wrinkles.

View attachment 659118
View attachment 659154
The side adjuster buckles are quite crappy, one of them is deformed. I carefully bent it back into shape using a pair of pliers.

View attachment 659120 View attachment 659121

I saw this jacket in a couple of 1950's movies. Couldn't believe they used to wear leather jackets for that kind of work.

 

[Marc mndt]

There are numerous threads about how to best condition a jacket and which product to use but when the topcoat has completely worn off I simply use Saphir shoe cream.

Some of the panels were much more stretchy than others. When stretching up one of the underarm panels the leather teared .

To fix it I turned the sleeve inside out and opened up the lining.

I used a piece of deerskin to patch up the the tear from the backside. Deerskin is perfect for the job as it's strong yet very supple and stretchy.

I'm quite pleased with the result.

The pull was missing but I found it in one of the pockets.

 

[Marc mndt]

When stretching out the wrinkles the body lining teared near the collar. Not the nicest repair job I've ever done but it does the trick.

Now the finishing touch: sewing on a NOS Phillips 66 patch I found on eBay.

 

[JMax]

I enjoy your restoration posts.

 

[Monitor]

Fantastic work on repair the tear. I began sewing cuts like that. It's possible to make a near invisible repair, one that looks like a crease but you gotta be precise.

 

[Marc mndt]

Fantastic work on repair the tear. I began sewing cuts like that. It's possible to make a near invisible repair, one that looks like a crease but you gotta be precise.

With some leather filler the cut will probably become completely invisible but I'm going to leave it as is because it's already hard to tell it's there since the panel is facing the body when the jacket is worn.

 

[58panheadfan]

When stretching out the wrinkles the body lining teared near the collar. Not the nicest repair job I've ever done but it does the trick.
View attachment 659191 View attachment 659192 View attachment 659193

Now the finishing touch: sewing on a NOS Phillips 66 patch I found on eBay.

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Nicely done repair job. Nevertheless, I am surprised that you are struggling with such a jacket, especially as you have an exceptional collection of excellent jackets. I for one would probably never wear a jacket with such damage (but that's more of a mindfuck story). I think it was the damage to the jacket that was the challenge and not the jacket itself.

 

[Marc mndt]

I am surprised that you are struggling with such a jacket, especially as you have an exceptional collection of excellent jackets.

I do own a lot of nice jackets but for some reason black halfbelts are much harder to come by than brown ones so this is only my second black halfbelt. I'm talking about vintage jackets of course. I could order a repro jacket today but for various reasons I kind of lost interest in repro jackets.

I only own one other black halfbelt which is this 40s Windward. But this is not a jacket for every day wearing, its shearling body and wool quilted sleeve lining make it hot like an oven, its massive shoulder pads and wide shoulders make it quite a statement piece to wear.

I for one would probably never wear a jacket with such damage (but that's more of a mindfuck story). I think it was the damage to the jacket that was the challenge and not the jacket itself.

It absolutely is about the jacket itself. If I could buy the perfect black vintage halfbelt in my size in great condition I would probably not have bothered with this one but they're just not out there. I paid more for this worn out halfbelt than I did for some of my excellent condition vintage motorcycle jackets, that's how much I wanted THIS jacket.

I didn't have an opportunity yet to take proper fit pics but here's a quick mirror selfie just to give you an idea. Isn't this jacket absolutely perfect? The Windward above is a MUCH better jacket in terms of quality but in terms of look and feel this Phillips 66 wins hands down imo.

 

[Jon Crow]

With some leather filler the cut will probably become completely invisible but I'm going to leave it as is because it's already hard to tell it's there since the panel is facing the body when the jacket is worn.

Nice, I also use leather resin/filler, if it's a fine cracked I inject it in and buff it over, after a bit of polish you can't tell

 

[PeterRocco]

When stretching out the wrinkles the body lining teared near the collar. Not the nicest repair job I've ever done but it does the trick.
View attachment 659191 View attachment 659192 View attachment 659193

Now the finishing touch: sewing on a NOS Phillips 66 patch I found on eBay.

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Hi. I loved your post on this jacket. Great Job .

 

[Jon Crow]

I do own a lot of nice jackets but for some reason black halfbelts are much harder to come by than brown ones so this is only my second black halfbelt. I'm talking about vintage jackets of course. I could order a repro jacket today but for various reasons I kind of lost interest in repro jackets.

I only own one other black halfbelt which is this 40s Windward. But this is not a jacket for every day wearing, its shearling body and wool quilted sleeve lining make it hot like an oven, its massive shoulder pads and wide shoulders make it quite a statement piece to wear.

View attachment 659324 View attachment 659325

It absolutely is about the jacket itself. If I could buy the perfect black vintage halfbelt in my size in great condition I would probably not have bothered with this one but they're just not out there. I paid more for this worn out halfbelt than I did for some of my excellent condition vintage motorcycle jackets, that's how much I wanted THIS jacket.

I didn't have an opportunity yet to take proper fit pics but here's a quick mirror selfie just to give you an idea. Isn't this jacket absolutely perfect? The Windward above is a MUCH better jacket in terms of quality but in terms of look and feel this Phillips 66 wins hands down imo.

View attachment 659314

I've seen a few nice Windward jackets Marc, Montgomery ward, I agree about shearling though, here in Madrid I have a limited window for that haha

 

[58panheadfan]

I do own a lot of nice jackets but for some reason black halfbelts are much harder to come by than brown ones so this is only my second black halfbelt. I'm talking about vintage jackets of course. I could order a repro jacket today but for various reasons I kind of lost interest in repro jackets.

I only own one other black halfbelt which is this 40s Windward. But this is not a jacket for every day wearing, its shearling body and wool quilted sleeve lining make it hot like an oven, its massive shoulder pads and wide shoulders make it quite a statement piece to wear.

View attachment 659324 View attachment 659325

It absolutely is about the jacket itself. If I could buy the perfect black vintage halfbelt in my size in great condition I would probably not have bothered with this one but they're just not out there. I paid more for this worn out halfbelt than I did for some of my excellent condition vintage motorcycle jackets, that's how much I wanted THIS jacket.

I didn't have an opportunity yet to take proper fit pics but here's a quick mirror selfie just to give you an idea. Isn't this jacket absolutely perfect? The Windward above is a MUCH better jacket in terms of quality but in terms of look and feel this Phillips 66 wins hands down imo.

View attachment 659314

Indeed it‘s a great looking jacket and you did the repair job very well, congrats!

 

[Will Zach]

I do own a lot of nice jackets but for some reason black halfbelts are much harder to come by than brown ones so this is only my second black halfbelt. I'm talking about vintage jackets of course. I could order a repro jacket today but for various reasons I kind of lost interest in repro jackets.

I only own one other black halfbelt which is this 40s Windward. But this is not a jacket for every day wearing, its shearling body and wool quilted sleeve lining make it hot like an oven, its massive shoulder pads and wide shoulders make it quite a statement piece to wear.

View attachment 659324 View attachment 659325

It absolutely is about the jacket itself. If I could buy the perfect black vintage halfbelt in my size in great condition I would probably not have bothered with this one but they're just not out there. I paid more for this worn out halfbelt than I did for some of my excellent condition vintage motorcycle jackets, that's how much I wanted THIS jacket.

I didn't have an opportunity yet to take proper fit pics but here's a quick mirror selfie just to give you an idea. Isn't this jacket absolutely perfect? The Windward above is a MUCH better jacket in terms of quality but in terms of look and feel this Phillips 66 wins hands down imo.

View attachment 659314

Cool, looks just like the jacket from the gas station photo. A no-fuss work jacket (even though I hesitate to use the phrase "work jacket" because it has been hijacked, but that is a whole 'nother topic).

 

[Nykwil]

Had a broken thread in jacket so I applied frizz check to the broken threads, saddle stitched back in a nylon thread through the holes. And then with a tooth pick I pushed the old thread back through the holes securing it with frizz check. Not pretty but you can't tell at all and I have piece of mind at least it's secure.

 

[Herrvallmo]

I've been working on some modification on a jacket I recently bought.

The jacket is/was a vintage Swedish leather coat in goatskin, the jacket was sold with a bad zip so I knew I would have to change that. The jacket also came with a removable mouton liner-vest for more insu.

I didn't really like how the fit of the jacket was in it's original form, and the liner was very "bulky" and not very nice to use so I decided to use this jacket for a little project.

I've decided to change the following:
- Reduce the length of the jacket(I did frikk up when cutting the jacket so it did end up a bit shorter than planned lol, the pockets are kinda useless now haha)

- Reduce the P2P, chest and hem measurements for a slimmer fit.

- Remove the liner(don't have any unlined leather jackets, and the goat leather is super soft and smooth so I hope this will be a good summer-ish jacket)

- Make a half belt with the extra leather(I took inspo from my vintage "Brewers tailcoat" for a super simple, but very effective belt) and cover the middle seam.

- Increase the arm length a bit

I've never worked with leather before, and have very limited experience overall with a sewing machine, so the stitching is far from perfect haha.

I'm very impressed how well my machine(Singer Heavy Duty 4423) handled the leather(for future projects I would love a walking foot) and overall I've had a lot of fun with this little project.

Some pictures
Before:

After:
A bit wobbly zip, but I got the middle seam kinda matching at least

The pockets are... there lol, kind of useless now but form over function

I've saved the original tag(please don't look to close at the stitching haha)

Overall I'm super happy with the result, I may go back and fix some of the worst looking stitches but the fit of the jacket is greatly improved in my eyes. I also find the jacket a lot more interesting with the belt on the back instead of nothing like before, while also working like a charm to get a snugger fit around the stomach.

I do have some black leather paint incoming to give it a new fresh coat of paint

I would love to hear your thoughts(good or bad, gimme like it is doctor)

Cheers!