Dimensional brims

[cybergentleman]

crown shape and dimensional brim

I know many of you put a c-crown into your akubra feds, looks pretty good.

nonetheless, does anyone think the dimensional brim lends itself better to one crown bash over another?

 

[Lefty]

norse products

I found it here.

also

 

[Matt Deckard]

It's interesting to note that the Indy hat has also spawned hatters that do dimensional brims that are hand cut with uneven edges in an effort to emulate the job done by Herbert Johnson for Raiders of the Lost Ark.

 

[carldelo]

Talk about anisotropic brims!

Eek Lefty, that horrible cap reminds of this more-horrible Worth&Worth model, which I had almost successfully purged from my memory:

Located here: http://www.hatshop.com/site/showItem.php?Inv_ID=81

 

[Havana]

Those caps!!! I close my eyes but still see them. AAAH!

 

[Mulceber]

God what an awful waste of felt. -M

 

[rlk]

Different dimensional March 1938 Hat Life

 

[crhIndyfan]

Hi guys, I appreciate this is an older thread but I was hoping someone might be able to explain for me the "math" behind this photo. The snapshot is from Marc Kitter of Adventurebilt fame, and I am curious as to how he measured out the lines in regard to trimming the brim - how the 2 7/8 front & back flows into the 2 5/8 sides. Any comments are appreciated )

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Hi guys, I appreciate this is an older thread but I was hoping someone might be able to explain for me the "math" behind this photo. The snapshot is from Marc Kitter of Adventurebilt fame, and I am curious as to how he measured out the lines in regard to trimming the brim - how the 2 7/8 front & back flows into the 2 5/8 sides. Any comments are appreciated )

I've never trimmed one but you're trimming 1/4" per side. I would start with a ellipse circumfrence calculator to get the arc of the circumfrence correct. Think of the circumfrence in quarters. Once I had that I would lay out the pattern on cardboard or poster board before trimming.

 

[crhIndyfan]

I've never trimmed one but you're trimming 1/4" per side. I would start with a ellipse circumfrence calculator to get the arc of the circumfrence correct. Think of the circumfrence in quarters. Once I had that I would lay out the pattern on cardboard or poster board before trimming.

Hi Hurricane Jack, thanks for your answer. I really appreciate the information. This was exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for haha. Many thanks, Bud

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Hi Hurricane Jack, thanks for your answer. I really appreciate the information. This was exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for haha. Many thanks, Bud

If you are attempting to do this yourself keep in mind you will need to maintain a small tolerance or curf on the plus side, because you will need to sand & smooth back to the finished circumference. I would think you would want to start with a 3" brim also, & not 2-7/8.

Perhaps these experts can tell you how they do it:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-making-learning-millinery.57311/page-14

 

[crhIndyfan]

If you are attempting to do this yourself keep in mind you will need to maintain a small tolerance or curf on the plus side, because you will need to sand & smooth back to the finished circumference. I would think you would want to start with a 3" brim also, & not 2-7/8.

Perhaps these experts can tell you how they do it:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-making-learning-millinery.57311/page-14

Yeah, I had the 3 inch brim all round in mind. It makes sense to allow for error when it comes down to actually gauging the bloody thing with a Stanley knife haha. Thanks for the link, I'll give them a look

 

[Claudio Pellerito]

Yeah, I had the 3 inch brim all round in mind. It makes sense to allow for error when it comes down to actually gauging the bloody thing with a Stanley knife haha. Thanks for the link, I'll give them a look

You nailed it eventually? I have the same pics from Marc and I was asking myself the same question! More than the cut, it’s the math that worries me!!! Please help me

 

[Rmccamey]

[What I've always thought to be true but, if fact, may not be!!!]

I'm sure the focus of this thread is soft felt fedoras, but I've always thought vintage bowlers were almost exclusively made with dimensional brims with the wider width on the sides. The front and rear curls (vertical nubs) are very short and take very little felt while the sides of the D'Orsay take more felt to make the heavy curl thus leaving the finished bowler with a wider brim on the front/back and a narrower brim on the sides.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time!) I've never had the guts to deconstruct a vintage bowler to find out!

 

[The Hatted Professor]

[What I've always thought to be true but, if fact, may not be!!!]

I'm sure the focus of this thread is soft felt fedoras, but I've always thought vintage bowlers were almost exclusively made with dimensional brims with the wider width on the sides. The front and rear curls (vertical nubs) are very short and take very little felt while the sides of the D'Orsay take more felt to make the heavy curl thus leaving the finished bowler with a wider brim on the front/back and a narrower brim on the sides.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time!) I've never had the guts to deconstruct a vintage bowler to find out!

You're absolutely correct, as that's the only way to get the proper curl so that the sides and the back end up with the same visual width. And I did deconstruct a Derby to discover this. It one that was heavily damaged.

 

[Rmccamey]

Thanks for the confirmation.

You're absolutely correct, as that's the only way to get the proper curl so that the sides and the back end up with the same visual width. And I did deconstruct a Derby to discover this. It one that was heavily damaged.