Diamond Clothing Buco J100 review.

[Superfluous]

When you hear people talk about RMC it's almost as if their jackets are made by elves and pixies

RMC does have a line of jackets made my elves and pixies but they are much more expensive.

I agree that RMC is not immune to manufacturing flaws and/or imperfections. That said, their overall/average quality is outstanding. JC's overall/average quality is also outstanding. Moreover, as I described in a separate thread, JC employs certain techniques/detailing that I have not seen on RMC jackets -- almost elf like detailing.

 

[A-1]

Please do let us know how it turns out! I hope you have more luck that me and you get a good first first try!

Hey Carlos,
Yeah, I hope so, too. It must have been a real struggle which really challenged your patience, right?! The extra cost and especially the customs hassle and the wait must have been the worst!
I’m not a very patient person, haha.
Just hope everything’s gonna be good!
And yeah, I’ll keep you posted. Will start the DD thread on my own when it hasn’t been started yet.

 

[devilish]

Oh dear, did I ruffle some feathers? I was also given the Shinki information first hand. I don't want to draw JC into a fight he never picked so I won't labor the point anymore. My last word is this, I'll personally take a craftsmen' article over a mass produced one (relatively) any day but vive le difference!
The funny thing is my J-100 isn't made of Shinki. It's Horween and I have always disliked the way this leather is referred to in 'hallowed tones' these days too.

 

[Benj]

Personally I just don't think that these jackets are in different leagues. Although I only have first hand experience with flat head and RMC, id consider those two in the same league as Aero, free wheelers, Himel, JC, etc... Just from looks at least

 

[Superfluous]

I'll personally take a craftsmen' article over a mass produced one (relatively) any day

I don't disagree. That said, RMC leather jackets are hand/bench made by craftsmen:

You may not know his name and he may not have his own brand, but he is most certainly a skilled leather craftsman.

 

[technovox]

I don't disagree. That said, RMC leather jackets are hand/bench made by craftsmen:

You may not know his name and he may not have his own brand, but he is most certainly a skilled leather craftsman.

Yes. And for me therein lies the big difference- you don't know his name. And he doesn't know yours. Or your measurements. As opposed to a craftsman like Diamond Dave or John personally picking up the phone when you call and discussing your measurements, your concerns, the type of finish on the leather, hardware, etc. IMHO there's just no substitute for that kind of customer interaction.

 

[jon11]

I have handed Freewheelers Shinki, it looks like to me anyway, they are finished with plastic paint on the surface or heavy oil that's my concern and certainly not my taste. I would rather have leather from Horween or skins from top tanneries out of Italy, just personal taste I guess.

 

[Superfluous]

Yes. And for me therein lies the big difference- you don't know his name. And he doesn't know yours. Or your measurements. As opposed to a craftsman like Diamond Dave or John personally picking up the phone when you call and discussing your measurements, your concerns, the type of finish on the leather, hardware, etc. IMHO there's just no substitute for that kind of customer interaction.

I completely agree. The ability to interact with the craftsman makes for a far more rewarding experience. That said, it does not necessarily result in a better made product. I suspect the guy in the photo has more experience, and has made more jackets, than certain other jacket makers that we know by name. Likewise, the unnamed craftsmen and woman at Aero have more experience, and are more skilled, than certain branded craftsmen.

 

[A-1]

I completely agree. The ability to interact with the craftsman makes for a far more rewarding experience. That said, it does not necessarily result in a better made product. I suspect the guy in the photo has more experience, and has made more jackets, than certain other jacket makers that we know by name. Likewise, the unnamed craftsmen and woman at Aero have more experience, and are more skilled, than certain branded craftsmen.

That is true. I’ve been having some problems lately with sizing. Probably because of me, underestimating the leather. However, after the BK jacket I thought I knew my measurements, even sized up for a thicker hide, but still it was waaaaay too small.
This really made me doubt myself, haha. I hope the DD will be fine. But I think I’ve got all the measurements right this time. And the hide he’s using is not the heavy stuff. So, I’m optimistic.

But after two failed attempts, I thought about just walking into a store and buying a jacket from the rack. However, in my town there are no shops which supply the jackets I’d buy from the rack, like RMC, Golden Bear, Eastman or the likes.

So, next attempt...

 

[Carlos840]

That is true. I’ve been having some problems lately with sizing. Probably because of me, underestimating the leather. However, after the BK jacket I thought I knew my measurements, even sized up for a thicker hide, but still it was waaaaay too small.
This really made me doubt myself, haha. I hope the DD will be fine. But I think I’ve got all the measurements right this time. And the hide he’s using is not the heavy stuff. So, I’m optimistic.

But after two failed attempts, I thought about just walking into a store and buying a jacket from the rack. However, in my town there are no shops which supply the jackets I’d buy from the rack, like RMC, Golden Bear, Eastman or the likes.

So, next attempt...

Let's hope he followed the measurements! My first one was not close to the measurements i asked for, neither was the second one, but at least it fits!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Having now owned both a DD and two RMC jackets I can now say without a shadow of a doubt that the RMC is at least a step or two or even three above the DD jacket. The craftsmanship and details are far better. That said, I have no experience with GW and from what I have seen, their jackets are stellar. I don't think you should directly compare the two because they do different things well. From what I have seen, they are probably even in terms of overall quality. In fact, I consider them the two best makers in the world right now.

 

[AdeeC]

My aunt was an expert specialist seamstress who made protoptype, sample and custom suits for a high end suit maker in the 80's and 90's. But it took her 20 years of experience on the factory floor doing repetitious grunt work to get to where she was. Many small jacket makers that make the niche jackets we like started out as pasionate enthusiasts and I don't think had a proper apprenticeship and years of repetitious sewing on the factory floor to hone their craft. Many are self taught and given their passion and dedication can only get better with every jacket they make.

 

[bretron]

I'll take a $800 DD over a $1800 RMJ all day long

 

[Benj]

Actually, the difference is $350. The RMC is a lot more bang for your buck and I'm really really happy with mine. You'd be crazy to go the DD route unless you needed the custom measurements, which he might not do right anyway

 

[bretron]

RMJ J-22 $2298 in Shinki:
http://realmccoysnyc.com/collections/jackets/products/buco-j-22-jacket-bj10001?variant=959953443

DD J-21 $1049 in Shinki; $849 in tea core steer: http://www.diamondclothingco.com/#!buco-j-21/c1lqd

 

[Benj]

You're comparing a domestic price to an international price. I don't think it's fair. I'm comparing the retail cost directly from each manufacturer, or in my eyes what the manufacturers believe the jackets to be worth. Japanese horsehide DD J-100 is $950, RMC shinki J-100 is 160000 yen, or currently $1300 which is a great price for the jacket.

 

[Superfluous]

DD J-100: $950 ( http://www.diamondclothingco.com/#!product/prd1/3058052331/buco-j-100 )

RMC J-100: $1,400 ( https://www.realmccoys.co.jp/catalog/products/detail.php?product_id=3646&pg= )

Based on my personal experience with RMC and what I have read here about DD's work, I would pay the extra $450 every day of the week. Moreover, $1,450 is less than the price of a GW jacket and very close to the price of a Premium Aero in Vincenza.

There is no need to pay the increased price charged by the RMC boutiques.

 

[AdeeC]

Looked at RMC website and they retail list the J-100 at 172.800 yen. Others Buco's over 200,000 yen. 6 months ago a lot more expensive for $.

 

[Benj]

172800 yen is tax included (8%). Pre-tax it's 160000 yen, and pre-tax the DD is $950. Yes, they do have other buco's that are more expensive (although pre-tax they're actually under 200000 yen), but I'm not saying that any RMC jacket is a better purchase than a DD (well, actually I am, just not the point I made earlier).

 

[bretron]

it's all good. Buy whatcha want.

To those that have had a really awful experience with buying from Dave (or anyone for that matter), it really sucks and I totally understand your frustration. It's given me a bit of hesitation to by a DD jacket, I can't and won't deny it. But ive admired his work for a number of years now, from his crushers to half belts. And then recently his expanding brand working with John Chapman. It's the same thing that drew me to Mark Fischer. They've taken this obsession and love for jackets (and hats) to the next level. From consumer and scholar to artist and master

I have huge admiration to these guys, and what they do out of their garages in Everytown America. I just think it's so cool.