Detachable Collar Shirts... from TM Lewin?

[billyspew]

Seems Tm Lewin are now selling tunic shirts with detachable collars, currently 4 for £90 at the moment.
I've ordered a couple (I normally buy shirts from them anyway), they don't seem to be selling the studs though.

I'll look forward to seeing how good they are in a couple of days.

 

[Charlie Huang]

They've always sold them. The variety of patterns leaves a lot to be desired however...

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The variety of collars too. Well of course some of you might use their vintage collars but it would be nice to have a collar of the same fabric that is not a cutaway.

 

[Sir RBH]

And you could also try Stanley Ley.. can be very good

 

[Edward]

Interesting they're doing these... is this a new fashion trend among the city boys? Stanley Ley are good for a whole range of traditional things (I bought some great button braces in there), catering as they do to the legal profession. I don't quite see the advantage, though, in a shirt with a separate collar which is to all intents and purposes identical to an attached collar, unless you intend to use vintage collars with it, or to go really old school and wear the shirt several days running, changing the collars... It could, though, be a route to getting more vintage cut collars than has been an option in recent years. I've often admired the quality of Lewin shirts, but unfortunately they only seem to do that one collar cut, of which I am not a fan.

 

[Cobden]

I think they must be also aimed at barrister's primarily; the ability to go from court robes to normal attire without changing ones shirt is probably advantageous

 

[billyspew]

Interesting they're doing these... is this a new fashion trend among the city boys? Stanley Ley are good for a whole range of traditional things (I bought some great button braces in there), catering as they do to the legal profession. I don't quite see the advantage, though, in a shirt with a separate collar which is to all intents and purposes identical to an attached collar, unless you intend to use vintage collars with it, or to go really old school and wear the shirt several days running, changing the collars... It could, though, be a route to getting more vintage cut collars than has been an option in recent years. I've often admired the quality of Lewin shirts, but unfortunately they only seem to do that one collar cut, of which I am not a fan.

They do a few now. I have grown to rather like the Duke of York cut.

I've been considering getting them for a while as I like the option of being ble to change the style of collar. Currently looking to source some nice vintage ones at the moment.

 

[SmokingMonkey]

I bought 4 of these shirts earlier this year- 3 white and 1 blue "end on end"- for when I am working as an advocate in the Crown Court. There are studs sold separately on the site, but you can also get them from Stanley Ley or other legal tailors. The shirts are very good value (when you factor in T.M. Lewin's permanent "must end soon" offers), compared to the more specialist shops targetted just at the legal profession.

www.darcyclothing.com (formerly the Vintage Shirt Co.) offer a range of collar styles, though all in white, and for more variety, or for made to measure, I've also found www.movilleclothing.com.

 

[paul1889]

its too bad there aren't as many choices here in the US

 

[Joshbru3]

I just received my detachable collar shirt from TM Lewin and I must say its the best fitting shirt I have ever owned. The front and back of the shirt is longer than any shirt that I have bought in the states, probably for guarders or just so the shirt doesn't pull out from your pants. Here's my question:

I have never owned a detachable collar shirt before and I would love to buy some vintage Arrow or Van Heusen double round collars. I contacted TM Lewin to order some extra collars and they do not sell them separately. I can get them from other companies but I wasn't sure about the sizing. I wear a 16 x 35 shirt. Does this mean that the detachable collar that I need to find is a 16 or 16.5? I heard that the collar needs to be 1/2 a size bigger to fit over the band of the shirt. When I contacted TM Lewin, the rep told me that a size 16 detachable collar shirt actually has a 15.5 band and that the collar itself was 16. She seemed very unsure of herself and I just wanted to make sure this is true. Has anyone had any experience with buying other collars for their TM Lewin shirts?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.
Every collar is made with that extra 1/2" already taken into account. In other words, if you wear a size 16, get a collar --vintage or new-- that is labeled a size 16 as well. It will fit around your neck perfectly when you cinch in your necktie.


The TM Lewin rep is wrong. The size 16 detachable collar shirt has a 16 neckband.

 

[Joshbru3]

.
Every collar is made with that extra 1/2" already taken into account. In other words, if you wear a size 16, get a collar --vintage or new-- that is labeled a size 16 as well. It will fit around your neck perfectly when you cinch in your necktie.


The TM Lewin rep is wrong. The size 16 detachable collar shirt has a 16 neckband.

Thank you so much, Marc!! I just thought that since the collar goes over the band of the shirt, it needed some "wiggle" room. I was unaware that the collar is made with the .5 already taken into account. Again, thanks so much for your help!

 

[Qirrel]

.
Every collar is made with that extra 1/2" already taken into account.

Even so, a lot of people seem to disagree on that point. They seem to think that calculating the ease the collar needs to go over the neckband is best left to the customer. I have tried saying that, by the same logic, a size 40 suit should fit a 36" chest, but to no avail.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Even so, a lot of people seem to disagree on that point. They seem to think that calculating the ease the collar needs to go over the neckband is best left to the customer.

The customer is always right ... except when he's wrong. Example:


In 1986, I bought a detachable-collared shirt --my first ever-- at "Harrods", the department store in London. The size 15 shirt came with a matching size 15 collar. Ignorant 18-year-old that I was, I got nervous and asked the salesclerk for a size 15 1/2 collar instead. The clerk looked flustered; he gently assured me that the 15 collar would fit the 15 shirt. Nonetheless, I insisted on a 15 1/2 collar, and he relented. Result: the collar turned out to be too big for the shirt and for my neck. The clerk had been dead right.

 

[Nick D]

.
Every collar is made with that extra 1/2" already taken into account. In other words, if you wear a size 16, get a collar --vintage or new-- that is labeled a size 16 as well. It will fit around your neck perfectly when you cinch in your necktie.


The TM Lewin rep is wrong. The size 16 detachable collar shirt has a 16 neckband.

I've taken to measuring collars to see their true size. Size 15 collars I've had have ranged from 15 to 16 1/2. Very frustrating when I've found a perfect collar that claims to be my size but is much too big.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Size 15 collars I've had have ranged from 15 to 16 1/2.

Weird. Why do you think that is?

I've never had it happen to me, thank goodness.

 

[Qirrel]

The customer is always right ... except when he's wrong. Example:


In 1986, I bought a detachable-collared shirt --my first ever-- at "Harrods", the department store in London. The size 15 shirt came with a matching size 15 collar. Ignorant 18-year-old that I was, I got nervous and asked the salesclerk for a size 15 1/2 collar instead. The clerk looked flustered; he gently assured me that the 15 collar would fit the 15 shirt. Nonetheless, I insisted on a 15 1/2 collar, and he relented. Result: the collar turned out to be too big for the shirt and for my neck. The clerk had been dead right.

Frustratingly, some store clerks nowadays have got the same idea you had in 1986. I was at New & Lingwood last summer to buy a collar, and the man tried to sell me a size 15 collar for my 14.5 neck. I walked out with a 14.5 collar and found that it fit perfectly when I put it on back at the hotel.

 

[Nick D]

Weird. Why do you think that is?

I've never had it happen to me, thank goodness.

It seems that different labels have slightly different measurements. Older collars I've come across are worse about it than newer ones. Van Heusen collar packages recommended that thier collars be bought a half size smaller than other companies' collars, which I've always thought odd but they're very consistent in sizing.

 

[Auld Edwardian]

Dear Sir, Your collar should be ½ size larger than your collar size or it will be extremely uncomfortable, and possibly impossible to get on, especially if you are considering purchasing any of the old stiff style collars, or starch collars as they are more properly known. Be careful about purchasing collars from eBay as they might be dirty or discolored from age even if they are new old stock. A new source for these, in the style you are seeking, as well as other styles, is Luke Eyres, an old English firm that has been around since 1894, and is located in Ely Cambridgeshire. They can be found on the net at: http://www.luke-eyres.co.uk/(ohubcliq44lvoruhgsvnk133)/Pages/ProductCatalog/HomePage.aspx Once you have your starch collars you are going to need them laundered from time to time. This is an almost impossible task at home (believe me I have tried), and the results are less than satisfactory. The only place I have found that one can send their collars out to is another old English firm call Barkers, which has been around since 1861. They have a mail order service that spans the globe, which I understand is top notch, I have yet to use them myself, however they did come recommended. There web address is: http://www.stiffcollars.com/index.php?route=common/home I will offer some final advice if I may. You should find yourself a nice collar box to keep your collars in or they will get dirty left on top of your dresser, or crushed put in a dresser drawer. They can be found on eBay in all shapes and configurations that appeal to a variety of tastes. Don’t scratch your head in wonder if you find some that would not appeal to a gentleman’s taste, as lady’s shirts also had detachable collars well into the late 1920’s to early 1930’s. Also get a stud box to keep your studs in to avoid having them end up under the bed or behind the dresser. Nice vintage ones can also be found on ebay. Finally here is a helpful page on a site called Brown’s Bespoke, that gives instruction on how to properly put on a starch collar: http://www.bownsbespoke.com/lukeeyres.htm I will warn you that this is something that does require a fair amount of practice, and if you are planning to wear one on a day that requires you be there at a certain hour, leave yourself plenty of extra time until you get the knack. I hope this information is of interest and of use. Best wishes, and let us know how you make out with your starch collars.

 

[Auld Edwardian]

I just received my detachable collar shirt from TM Lewin and I must say its the best fitting shirt I have ever owned. The front and back of the shirt is longer than any shirt that I have bought in the states, probably for guarders or just so the shirt doesn't pull out from your pants. Here's my question:

I have never owned a detachable collar shirt before and I would love to buy some vintage Arrow or Van Heusen double round collars. I contacted TM Lewin to order some extra collars and they do not sell them separately. I can get them from other companies but I wasn't sure about the sizing. I wear a 16 x 35 shirt. Does this mean that the detachable collar that I need to find is a 16 or 16.5? I heard that the collar needs to be 1/2 a size bigger to fit over the band of the shirt. When I contacted TM Lewin, the rep told me that a size 16 detachable collar shirt actually has a 15.5 band and that the collar itself was 16. She seemed very unsure of herself and I just wanted to make sure this is true. Has anyone had any experience with buying other collars for their TM Lewin shirts?

I'm posting this twice because I forgot to quote you.

Dear Sir, Your collar should be ½ size larger than your collar size or it will be extremely uncomfortable, and possibly impossible to get on, especially if you are considering purchasing any of the old stiff style collars, or starch collars as they are more properly known. Be careful about purchasing collars from eBay as they might be dirty or discolored from age even if they are new old stock. A new source for these, in the style you are seeking, as well as other styles, is Luke Eyres, an old English firm that has been around since 1894, and is located in Ely Cambridgeshire. They can be found on the net at: http://www.luke-eyres.co.uk/(ohubcliq44lvoruhgsvnk133)/Pages/ProductCatalog/HomePage.aspx Once you have your starch collars you are going to need them laundered from time to time. This is an almost impossible task at home (believe me I have tried), and the results are less than satisfactory. The only place I have found that one can send their collars out to is another old English firm call Barkers, which has been around since 1861. They have a mail order service that spans the globe, which I understand is top notch, I have yet to use them myself, however they did come recommended. There web address is: http://www.stiffcollars.com/index.php?route=common/home I will offer some final advice if I may. You should find yourself a nice collar box to keep your collars in or they will get dirty left on top of your dresser, or crushed put in a dresser drawer. They can be found on eBay in all shapes and configurations that appeal to a variety of tastes. Don’t scratch your head in wonder if you find some that would not appeal to a gentleman’s taste, as lady’s shirts also had detachable collars well into the late 1920’s to early 1930’s. Also get a stud box to keep your studs in to avoid having them end up under the bed or behind the dresser. Nice vintage ones can also be found on ebay. Finally here is a helpful page on a site called Brown’s Bespoke, that gives instruction on how to properly put on a starch collar: http://www.bownsbespoke.com/lukeeyres.htm I will warn you that this is something that does require a fair amount of practice, and if you are planning to wear one on a day that requires you be there at a certain hour, leave yourself plenty of extra time until you get the knack. I hope this information is of interest and of use. Best wishes, and let us know how you make out with your starch collars.