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Derby Deconstruction

augustwest

New in Town
Messages
15
Location
southbay - los angeles
I've always liked Bowler/Derby hats and have wished they would come back into style. Unfortunately I don't think that will ever be the case. So I was very interested to read this thread, so much so that I downloaded the book which this thread is based on, for my own collection < Henry L. Ermatinger’s 1919 Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating >. If any of you are interested, it can be found here: < https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma >. It is a free download, since it is in the Public Domain.
 

Luis

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
Houston
How hard is it for a hatter to sew in a new sweatband on a vintage? I have a few that could use it. Seems it would be tough due to the stiffness.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
I've always liked Bowler/Derby hats and have wished they would come back into style. Unfortunately I don't think that will ever be the case. So I was very interested to read this thread, so much so that I downloaded the book which this thread is based on, for my own collection < Henry L. Ermatinger’s 1919 Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating >. If any of you are interested, it can be found here: < https://archive.org/details/scientifichatfin00erma >. It is a free download, since it is in the Public Domain.
Don't worry about style August! Let your freak flag fly and wear a derby with gusto. Welcome to the asylum.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
How hard is it for a hatter to sew in a new sweatband on a vintage? I have a few that could use it. Seems it would be tough due to the stiffness.
Mike at NW Hats has repaired/refurbished both of my stiff felts. On my 1930s Stetson, he stitched a couple of bad spots on the original sweat. On my 1950s Christy's, he had to gut her and replace the sweat and liner (original was trashed), he resized it and now it fits like my customs from him. I don't know if this is common service among our resident hatters, but I do know it is a challenge to work on these hats.
 

Luis

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
Houston
Mike at NW Hats has repaired/refurbished both of my stiff felts. On my 1930s Stetson, he stitched a couple of bad spots on the original sweat. On my 1950s Christy's, he had to gut her and replace the sweat and liner (original was trashed), he resized it and now it fits like my customs from him. I don't know if this is common service among our resident hatters, but I do know it is a challenge to work on these hats.

Thank you! I have a couple that the felts are amazing but just the sweats need some repairing or replacing. If it was a regular fedora I would do it myself but these are derbies/bowlers so I will leave it to the professionals.
Are you referring to Mike the Hatter from Ohio? That is who I found when I searched the net.
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Thank you! I have a couple that the felts are amazing but just the sweats need some repairing or replacing. If it was a regular fedora I would do it myself but these are derbies/bowlers so I will leave it to the professionals.
Are you referring to Mike the Hatter from Ohio? That is who I found when I searched the net.
My hatter is Mike Miller from Northwest Hats in Eugene Oregon. He is about 45 minutes south of where I live in Oregon. Email him, he is very helpful and a Lounge Member. He does not post much as he is a vendor.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,942
Location
Central Texas
Bump of a great thread and a very informative tutorial about "how it used to be done" for some newer members of TFL.

Also, I wanted to give a shout out to Mike Miller at Northwest Hats referenced in a few of the most recent (old) posts on this thread. I commissioned a derby from Mike earlier this year and the results are spectacular. While not the construction practices of a century ago, Mike does a fantastic job replicating the look of the old fashioned derby.

20200817_154802.jpg 20200817_154945.jpg 20200817_155036.jpg 20200817_155119.jpg 20200817_155506.jpg
 

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