Denim Jackets - New or Vintage

[Mich486]

I don’t think until the recent raw denim hype denim has ever been heavier than 14oz. Standard Levi’s are 12.5-14oz. I got a pair of 1915 501 repro that are 9oz.

14oz denim isn’t lightweight or prone to tears as you bend. That is a misconception.


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[navetsea]

Apart from them causing fleshwounds all over my lower body and crushing my balls, they are really great. 5/5, would wear again!


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^ yeah exactly like that, just like eating spicy food, physically unpleasant but worth everybit, and you never want anything lesser and if anything you are always tempted to go further up the scale.

 

[Monitor]

Not quite sure where to post this...
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I've read something about how anything over 20oz has a much shorter lifespan, even compared to 15oz stuff. Not sure why, though...

 

[torfjord]

I've read something about how anything over 20oz has a much shorter lifespan, even compared to 15oz stuff. Not sure why, though...

I’ve also read that somewhere, can’t remember the reasons why though. But I would imagine that a thicker and stiffer fabric cause more friction in stress areas, which would make it tear apart quicker. Also, shouldn’t thicker fabrics put more stress on seams?


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[ton312]

It does seem the super heavy denim is prone to become loose and the twill more likely to separate. The button Holes on my IH 634’s are completely unwound. I think once the fabric gets that thick it’s hard to keep them as tightly bound together.
I’ll add too that after trying a 27 oz jacket...it’s too much for a slim type III. Way too much. Might be ok for a looser work jacket but it just doesn’t work for a trucker.
But if IH ever does release a 25oz 526....no way I can lay off that. Sized up at least one size.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Don't know about thick denim but my ultra high thread count cotton bed sheets tear quickly too.

 

[navetsea]

I've read something about how anything over 20oz has a much shorter lifespan, even compared to 15oz stuff. Not sure why, though...

the only possible thing is if the cotton fiber is short then it would make it easier to unravel when spun into a fat roll than a thin longer roll because the fatter the roll the less coils the short strand intertwines with each other, but if the cotton is long so that factor can be nullified then just comparing wearing through a thick fabrics vs thin fabrics made of similar cotton I bet my money on the thicker to last longer.

Imo (just my own guess) the more character/ irregularity in the fabric the lesser the durability, so I'm not sure if hairy slubby, etc is actually a plus for durability, I guess the hairiness shows the cotton fiber is somewhat short, and the irregularity would make uneven spread of load on the fabric. while I can see a smooth very uniform fabric would be perhaps less expensive but stronger in quality.

I also don't see the value of chainstitching, it is exactly how cat food sack is sewn, pull one strand the rest unravel instantly, what a stupid way to stitch a supposedly strong workwear.

 

[ton312]

 

[navetsea]

I repaired buttonholes on my 21oz pants on 3rd day of wearing, i have yet to repair any of buttonholes of my slightly heavier thicker 24oz but half the price of said 21oz. I guess many factors involved in button holes including the roughness of the button itself, button hole size, the strength and flexibility of the thread , the machine used to make them. I repaired mine at the first sign of fraying with hand stitches especially the round corner where the button neck is anchored before the button chews the fabrics and then i slicked the edges with candle wax, it stops fraying since.

Original buttonhole thread was indigo navy blue, the repair is in grey, i repaired the waist button completely, for the lower 3 i only made half round edges to stop the button from cutting toward the edge of the fly, the original button holes barely remains now after few months of wearing. But i downsized 2 so probably I am partially to blame in this case.

 

[navetsea]

Button holes edges of my 24oz are pretty much intact with almost equal wearing time both pants bought just one month apart. However from the start this one has longer slit so the hole can spread more without force pulling the fabric, also the concave donuts style button is somewhat easier to put in and out through holes maybe it has more funnel shape bottom compared to the other type with convex cap.
And i only down a size maybe that helps too (joking, both are more or less equal in size, just different pattern from different maker)

 

[sweetfights]

Two denim entries. Mister Freedoom peacoat. 16oz sugar cane denim with 12oz heavy cotton liner. Makes for a beastly coat. I was surprised by this one. And aside from the IH 526pj it’s my favorite yet.
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Soso 27oz monster 6lb freak show type III. Too small so I’ll chuck it back to eBay but man this material has to be seen to be believed. Quality is fine. Not on par with IH or other premier denim outfits but it’s certainly not bad. This is the denim equivalent of LW 4.5oz HH.
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IS THIS INDIGO? HARD TO TELL FROM PICS.

 

[ton312]

IS THIS INDIGO? HARD TO TELL FROM PICS.

The peacoat is sugarcane denim/ indigo. The soso is their version of an overdye. It’s a very dark indigo. Not black!

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

I apologize if this is intruding on your thread, but you fellas seem to be a smart group to ask. What's the deal with the shiny denim? The stuff that almost looks like leather. Is that just treated with something or maybe just waxed? I remember many, many years ago, I ran into punk rockers who would wear their denim so long that it shined like that from dirt, filthy house gunk, and body oils because they never bathed. They could take off their jeans and stand them up in the corner.

 

[navetsea]

shiny skinny jeans are coated with something "plastic"

i used acrylic varnish to coat mine using foam brush unevenly so it looks more like worn in leather rather than uniformly shiny everywhere i only coat the front of the pants because the pants would turn into a fiber reinforced plastic sheet feel at least until some washes it feels horrible behind your knee, wax coated is not as shiny and leave fatty dirty feel maybe works for waxed overcoat but not really for fabric thats touching the skin allday.

Some raw can be shiny when new one that is sanforized can be shiny smooth at least before the first soak/ wash.

I have yet to see a jeans that shines from grime and body oil, i bet my nose will react first before my eyes. I smelled damp dirty jeans at church worn by some denimbros, i didnt see any shine on it from where i sat 2 rows behind them, i pity folks who sit closer to the source.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

..but why would you put varnish on jeans..??

I'd hate to try getting jeans that skinny on. Guess I don't see the point of adding a coating or of skin tight denim.

 

[navetsea]

..but why would you put varnish on jeans..??

I'd hate to try getting jeans that skinny on. Guess I don't see the point of adding a coating or of skin tight denim.

I dont invent this style, i just recoated mine after initial coat wore off after 2yrs and many washes. Personally i think it looks good on black skinny jeans, it adds some contrast, i think it looks bad on looser fit or other colors that is not black or perhaps red. Skinny fit it is, skin tight it is not, i can wear my boots inside, and honestly while i dont say they are comfy pants but still 200% comfier than sandpapers im currently wearing even with roomier leg.

 

[Mich486]

I think we are finally at a point, after about 15 years, where skinny jeans are starting to go out of fashion. This couldn’t come quick enough in my opinion. It is not a flattering fit for the male body.


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[Captain Sensible]

I think we are finally at a point, after about 15 years, where skinny jeans are starting to go out of fashion. This couldn’t come quick enough in my opinion. It is not a flattering fit for the male body.


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This is painfully not true for the UK, males wearing essentially leggings of various materials including denim are everywhere. The painted on look, ankle showing, giant trainers or loafers completes the ensemble. Horrific.

 

[navetsea]

I like mine, still in active rotation, no ankle showing no trainers no skin tight but i like my coated black skinny jeans. Looks great with black leather jacket. I wear my raw more since i want to break them in further and matches more with my blue leather jacket and denim jacket currently.

 

[ton312]

I think we are finally at a point, after about 15 years, where skinny jeans are starting to go out of fashion. This couldn’t come quick enough in my opinion. It is not a flattering fit for the male body.


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My wife and I were shopping for a dress for my daughter at Zara (I do love their kids clothes) and I decided to meander into what they have labeled the “mens” section. Literally every single pair of pants, denim or otherwise was a pair of stretchy leggings.