de-70sifying a suit

[Selvaggio]

This has probably been asked before, but I couldn't find a post quite on point, so here goes...

If one had a very good quality suit from the 70s what are your thoughts on both the feasibility and propriety of toning down some of that decades more prominent stylistic hallmarks - specifically placing the lapels on a diet and amputating the flare from the trouser bottoms?

 

[J.J. Gittes]

Post some photos if you can, It would help a lot.

 

[Selvaggio]

I really only have one jacket which this would apply to - I will try and grab some shots.

I was really wondering more hypothetically, as I have noticed that there are lots of unloved 70s suits on eBay, they're not very expensive and, at least some, appear to be very good quality (sometimes Saville Row tailors I have actually heard of).....I know there are always fit concerns in this caper, but I am just not sure about the look and I was wondering if alteration was a viable option.

 

[J.J. Gittes]

I've personally never done it.
But I don't see why I couldn't be done to a degree. It would be very difficult to make it look exact to an earlier era. De-bellying the lapels, taking away pant flair, changing button positioning, bringing in the waist etc, will get you an earlier look but there will always be details that are hard to change that will give it away such as gorge and notch height aswell as other things (if indeed a notch lapel.)
By all means, if you have the resources and it isn't to drastically 70's, and leads more towards classic, why not give it a try?

 

[Selvaggio]

Thankyou. I think I will

 

[Bird's One View]

I think reshaping lapels is asking for trouble. Converting flared trousers to straight leg (or tapered, if you must) is easy enough, though I still don't encourage it.

 

[Nick D]

Reshaping the trousers shouldn't be too hard. The lapels are likely to be a major operation due to the canvasing, padstitching, stay tape, etc etc.

 

[avedwards]

Taking the flare out of trouser bottoms is easy. I had it done on a pair which went with a dinner jacket and it worker out perfectly.

The other thing I notice on a lot of 70s suits is the lack of lapel buttonhole. Having this done should be easy (I think) and it makes something which was instantly recognisible as 70s slightly more classic.

 

[Nick D]

The other thing I notice on a lot of 70s suits is the lack of lapel buttonhole. Having this done should be easy (I think) and it makes something which was instantly recognisible as 70s slightly more classic.

I bought a jacket from the 60s that had no buttonhole, so I added one. Just doesn't look right without.

 

[Cobden]

I've recently bought a 1969 three piece tweed; the jacket and waistcoat (apart from the rear vents) definately look true vintage enough to pass without any modification, but the trousers certainly don't. Cunning plan was to have them converted to plus fours, but alas they are heavily mothed at the top in the inner thigh, and they're fully lined. Furthermore, they have jean type pockets and no pleats. Any ideas, or is it just case of chucking the trousers? The only thing I could think of was to have constructed a pair of plus fours or breeks from the bottom halves of the trousers (perhaps utilising the original waistband, which isn't mothed, and other spare material), but in all honesty, I have no idea if it would work or if it's possible

 

[Selvaggio]

I haven't photographed the jacket I mentioned - when I looked at it at home I decided it was just not 70s enough to illustrate the point.

But what about something like this killer-diller houndstooth 3 piece. Quite a nice suit but screamingly 70s - fat, fat lapels, deep vents, flares etc. I would feel a bit costumey in that as it stands. Thoughts on whether something like that could be renovated - either in a vintage or modern direction?

Another question - I would feel a bit awkward about impairing the integrity of something which is such a fine example of its type...or is this just being silly?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VTG-70S-MENS-COUNTRY-3-PIECE-TWEED-SUIT-38R-W34-X-L34_W0QQitemZ280462837020QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMen_s_Clothes?hash=item414ce3451c

 

[Smithy]

Selvaggio, take the suit into somewhere like Anton's and have a chat with them about what can be done.

 

[MrBern]

IIRC , tho `70s pants were often highwaisted, they were narrow in the hips, then flared out into bellbottoms. The bells are easy enuff to tailor way, but that narrow hip might not lend itself to the vintage `30s look.

As for the jacket...it could work...but more likely you'll spend a bit of cash on something that wont totally thrill you in the end.
Be clear with your tailor. Show him pix of suits that would resemble your goal. But I cant say I'd be very optimistic for this project.

 

[Selvaggio]

thanks again for the suggestions and cautions.

Smithy, I don't get down to Melbourne that much. Do you know of a similar business in Sydney? There is Skin Deep, but I think they only deal with new garments.

 

[Smithy]

thanks again for the suggestions and cautions.

Smithy, I don't get down to Melbourne that much. Do you know of a similar business in Sydney? There is Skin Deep, but I think they only deal with new garments.

Selvaggio, I know that there is an Anton's in Sydney but I don't know for sure where they do any tailoring there or whether it is merely a retail outlet for the off-the-rack garments made in Melbourne. I'd give them a buzz and check.

If no luck, I am sure that one of the Sydneysiders here will be able to point you in the direction of a decent tailor up there.

There was also this thread about tailors in Melbourne and Sydney here which might be a bit of help...

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=33397

 

[Tomasso]

IIRC , tho `70s pants were often highwaisted, they were narrow in the hips, then flared out into bellbottoms. The bells are easy enuff to tailor way, but that narrow hip might not lend itself to the vintage `30s look.

My thoughts as well.

As for the jacket...it could work...but more likely you'll spend a bit of cash on something that wont totally thrill you in the end.

I must again concur.


Actually, the suit above would be more easily recut to a modern silhouette by slimming the lapels/pocket flaps and lowering the vents on the jacket.......then trimming the flare and lowering the rise on the trousers.

 

[BellyTank]

That jacket has a nice shape to it.
Maybe some "ease" could be engineered into the trousers seat,
by way of a gusset, or fillet, set into the back seam- harvested from the flares.
But if the pants are too snug around the hips and crotch, it would not be effective. If it's English and tweed, one would hope the cut of the trou' is a little more on the conservative side but then the description uses the word, "skinny".


B
T

 

[Selvaggio]

I should add that I haven't bought that actual suit.

I posted the link to illustrate the type of thing I had a mind to use as a starting point - inexpensive, nice shape, quality fabric. Of course the subsequent tailoring could add up pretty quickly and may not make it worthwhile.

Smithy, I have learned from the other thread that there is a branch of Anton's in Oxford St, Paddington. I will have to pass by and have a look.

 

[psionite]

I think reshaping the lapels is unlikely to produce a worthwhile result.

 

[cookie]

My alterations guy had some customer in who has not come back to pay for his suits but was having about 3 x 1970s type suits cut down along the lines you mentioned Selvaggio. It can be done but is expensive.